Anchor buoy

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Good thread. I think these folks figured out how to solve you all's problem. Saw this at the Seattle Boat Show:

Anchor Buoy Home - Anchor Buoy

 

[Nomad Willy]

Steve that was a good save and story. One could do a similar thing w another boat. Both boats pulling a bit in opposite directions. Sometimes just a little common sense and/or engineering thought can do near wonders. I think they make eliptical rings especially for retrieving anchors basically the way you did. Way to go Steve and thanks for taking the time to share.

 

[boatpoker]

Good thread. I think these folks figured out how to solve you all's problem. Saw this at the Seattle Boat Show:

Anchor Buoy Home - Anchor Buoy

I want one ! what a great idea.

 

[BruceK]

Steve`s well thought out recovery method in post 30 sounds like using the shank slot on a Super Sarca and some other anchors, to aid recovery.

 

[jwnall]

Too late to edit my post, the PS was supposed to be addressed to Boatpoker..

Fixed it for ya!

 

[Northern Spy]

Good thread. I think these folks figured out how to solve you all's problem. Saw this at the Seattle Boat Show:

Anchor Buoy Home - Anchor Buoy

A high tech solution to a low tech problem.

I kind of like it.

 

[Peter B]

Steve`s well thought out recovery method in post 30 sounds like using the shank slot on a Super Sarca and some other anchors, to aid recovery.

Yep, that's pretty much how the Super Sarca slot works, only minus the need to rig a loop of chain, use a separate retrieval line, and so on…

Sorry Eric…but I didn't start this...

 

[FF]

Don't use one where the bottom is thought to be clear.

The problem is you never know.

There is a nice anchorage near the USCG station at Cape May NJ.

Looks great , tho a bit soft so a good sized anchor is required.

The fun is the USCG has been dumping scrap probably for decades ,in the bay.

One AM we were very lucky to be able to get a loop under some heavy heavy cable as we watched out 5/8 nylon anchor line begin to shred from the load..

The CG had no interest in my buoying the cable for them to remove.

Thought to be clear , gives many surprises.

 

[psneeld]

Don't use one where the bottom is thought to be clear.

The problem is you never know.

There is a nice anchorage near the USCG station at Cape May NJ.

Looks great , tho a bit soft so a good sized anchor is required.

The fun is the USCG has been dumping scrap probably for decades ,in the bay.

One AM we were very lucky to be able to get a loop under some heavy heavy cable as we watched out 5/8 nylon anchor line begin to shred from the load..

The CG had no interest in my buoying the cable for them to remove.

Thought to be clear , gives many surprises.

Picked up some cable about 1/4 mile off the beach in the ocean there too. 2 strong guys pulling as hard as they could almost put the bow of my 23' sailboat underwater. Never know what you might hook into.

Still a mystery to me ....as pro/cons dance in my head all the time about anchoring...just like the never use 2 anchor crowd....they will proclaim the end of the earth scenarios too ....yet buoys and 2 anchors are popular with many experienced cruisers also.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Peter,
Looks like we don't need those slotted shank anchors. Just a loop of chain and some basic can do. I actually block off the slot w a bolt up near the rode end on my Manson. I don't use the hole for the non-slot option as I feel the small increase in throat angle is or may be worth having for better short scope work. Probably sets better w the hole and slightly smaller throat angle. I'd be tempted to use the open slot w a SARCA though. More stable design I think.

As a side thought I run my trip line through the roll bar for a better retrieval angle. I figure the further back the better for a retrieval attach point.

 

[skipperdude]

I have seen the claw or Bruce anchors with the rode attached up near the fluks to that little hole. With the rode fastened to the end of the anchor using plastic wire ties. So the chain runs along the top of the shank. I suppose if you are really snagged the wire ties break and you are able to lift the anchor by the fluke end rather than the actual shank end part of the anchor. Kind of hard to explain without pictures.

I have never tried it but it looks like it could really work.

SD

 

[Jim Gandee]

Good info on anchor retrieval method, I'll file that one! In only ten feet though, I'd don my mask and fins and just dive for it.

 

[Jim Gandee]

Alaskan,
That motorized anchor bouy looks very interesting. The only drawback that I can see is the line is only 80lb monofilament. I doubt that'd be strong enough for a trip line. The gadget is solar powered and includes an automatic nightlight. Pretty cool!

 

[Nomad Willy]

I have seen the claw or Bruce anchors with the rode attached up near the fluks to that little hole. With the rode fastened to the end of the anchor using plastic wire ties. So the chain runs along the top of the shank. I suppose if you are really snagged the wire ties break and you are able to lift the anchor by the fluke end rather than the actual shank end part of the anchor. Kind of hard to explain without pictures.

I have never tried it but it looks like it could really work.

SD

Dude,
I've seen that done a lot in SE. I'm not a fan.

The attach point is not nearly as strong as the proper end of the fluke. The trip line anchor point on a Claw is very a small appendage compared to the customary rode end and most likely would be pulled sideways if/when the ties break. That would make it even more vulnerable. A proper sized shackle may not fit in the trip line hole on some brands, most brands, or even all brands. A smaller shackle is another weak link. One of the important features of the Claw anchor (I think) is it's robustness. I use mine as a rock anchor.

What size of plastic ties to use? Too weak and the ties break while setting the anchor and of course then it won't set. Or break while anchored. Not good. Too strong and there's few problems (other than the weak attach point) but the anchor may become more stuck or entangled in the tree, rocks or whatever on the bottom before the ties break and you start to do your extraction. Not much downside if the ties are really strong but they can still break when you don't want them to and then the anchor will pull out and perhaps make you part of an "event".

Like I said it's very common in SE AK but as I see it Claws are so cheap (you can get a 44# for less than $150 at WM) I'm inclined to use the anchor as it was intended. And if I had (I don't) a Manson Ray (the only expensive Claw) I'd use a trip line or go risky. I think the Ray's are considerably cheaper than they were though.

 

[skipperdude]

I see your points. Perhaps just a stout trip line attached to a bouy with it tied to the end by the fluke.
If you can't pull it by the shank end it could be tripped.

Or Pull upon the anchor to 0 scope cleat it off and let the wave action pull it free. This has work for me.

SD

 

[sunchaser]

Or Pull upon the anchor to 0 scope cleat it off and let the wave action pull it free. This has work for me.

 

[HiDHo]

We cruise and anchor on the Tennessee river using all chain and a 45 lb CQR so we always use a trip line and buoy and adjust the length of the trip line based on the depth of the anchorage. When TVA clear cut prior to building the system of lock and dams they left the stumps and these will definitely snag your anchor and are found in the best anchorages.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Alaskan,
That motorized anchor bouy looks very interesting. The only drawback that I can see is the line is only 80lb monofilament. I doubt that'd be strong enough for a trip line. The gadget is solar powered and includes an automatic nightlight. Pretty cool!

All it does is float, so 80lb should be more than enough. When you let your anchor down, it just releases line and has this neat lights on it for night. Then when you pull your anchor a little motor rolls in the line and parks on top of your anchor.

 

[rwidman]

I have seen the claw or Bruce anchors with the rode attached up near the fluks to that little hole. With the rode fastened to the end of the anchor using plastic wire ties. So the chain runs along the top of the shank. I suppose if you are really snagged the wire ties break and you are able to lift the anchor by the fluke end rather than the actual shank end part of the anchor. Kind of hard to explain without pictures.

I have never tried it but it looks like it could really work.

SD

That's fine in the daytime if you stay on the boat. Not so good for sleeping or leaving the boat because the ties can break and the anchor will dislodge on its own.

 

[BruceK]

Peter,
Looks like we don't need those slotted shank anchors. Just a loop of chain and some basic can do. I actually block off the slot w a bolt up near the rode end on my Manson. I don't use the hole for the non-slot option as I feel the small increase in throat angle is or may be worth having for better short scope work. Probably sets better w the hole and slightly smaller throat angle. I'd be tempted to use the open slot w a SARCA though. More stable design I think.

Interesting. The Super Sarca comes with a heavy bolt fitted to the slot, you can keep it, remove it (as I did) or fix it where you like along the slot. Can`t see the point in recovery lines if the slot provides for recovery.
Sarca say fit a ss shackle (not provided) to attach the chain rode, pin in the slot. I made sure to get a good Ronstan (non Chinese) shackle, with a rating.

 

[Nomad Willy]

BruceK,
SS shackles are for yachties. Galvanized are best for electrolysis concerns unless you have SS anchor chain and anchor. And Gal is stronger I'm quite sure.

Really .... so Rex gives those that don't trust his design a bolt. I'd trust the SARCA in my sleep.

But re the slot and recovery I think the trip line is better "positioned" to pull the anchor out. On many or most anchors the shackle hole for the trip line puts the line in a better position to extract the anchor backwards. Ideally the trip line attach point should be basically as low and far aft as practical. The Rocna's set up fairly well for this. But I could be wrong. Maybe the attach point should be higher and further fwd????

 

[BruceK]

BruceK,
SS shackles are for yachties. Galvanized are best for electrolysis concerns unless you have SS anchor chain and anchor. And Gal is stronger I'm quite sure.

Really .... so Rex gives those that don't trust his design a bolt. I'd trust the SARCA in my sleep.

I do trust the Sarca in my sleep, have to. Anchor, swivel, rode, are gal.
I`d rather Sarca included the shackle than the bolt.Sarca back the anchor but I think not a 3rd party made shackle, the bolt is less critical. Rex was clear on a ss shackle, maybe for hardness/ non wearing, as the pin slides along the slot. So far so good, easy keeping an eye on the connections.

 

[dimer2]

I am no chemist but practical sailor says...

"Mixing and matching stainless steel and galvanized mild steel chain, shackles, and anchors is interesting from a galvanic corrosion point of view. It’s true that stainless steel becomes less noble when submerged, but the zinc galvanizing will be the least noble metal in the mix, and in salt water, its rate of electrolytic disappearance may be slightly increased."

 

[High Wire]

There is a nice anchorage near the USCG station at Cape May NJ.

The fun is the USCG has been dumping scrap probably for decades ,in the bay.

Hey now! Don't be burning my flounder spots!
FWIW, there is lots of junk there from the many dredges that anchor between the base docks and inlet each year.

 

[FF]

FWIW, there is lots of junk there from the many dredges that anchor between the base docks and inlet each year.

And most of it is big and heavy , so its an anchor trip line or a visit to Worst Marine .

 

[dodo]

OK, before it becomes a new anchor thread, here is the European solution of an anchor-buoy:
Selbstaufrollende Ankerboje

Expensive, comes from Switzerland, but with a reasonable retriev line...

Karl

 

[Peter B]

I am no chemist but practical sailor says...

"Mixing and matching stainless steel and galvanized mild steel chain, shackles, and anchors is interesting from a galvanic corrosion point of view. It’s true that stainless steel becomes less noble when submerged, but the zinc galvanizing will be the least noble metal in the mix, and in salt water, its rate of electrolytic disappearance may be slightly increased."

Take it from me, personal experience 10 yrs now - backed up by many others, including Rex of Anchorright, makers of Sarca, in practice, mixing stainless and galv in the final attachment to the anchor is a non-issue. Most of the time they are out of water and dry, so unless you were swinging on the hook 24/7 x 365, I doubt you would ever see any galvanic activity.
The stainless shackle is because with galv on galv there is too much friction for reliable tripping using the slot when needed, hence giving the lie to any real concern of it tripping by accident when not wanted.
However, Rex has advised me that the really large anchor sizes, i.e. above about #8, this is not an issue because of the weight and extra forces involved, so galv shackle can be used. Must be correct shape and size of course, and definitely with pin/bolt through the slot.

 

[FF]

I would never worry about a galv shackle on a SS anchor ,

for me the fear of SS welding , doing what welded SS does crevace corrosion , and the anchor falling to pieces under a load would be more of a concern.

BUT yes SS does look great dockside.

 

[River Cruiser]

I'll tell you an anchor retrival method that worked for me, several years ago we were anchored at Rabbit Island just east of New Orleans. We had spent the night on the hook in about 10' of water. The "hook" was a virgin 45 # Delta on 5/16" chain. When we got ready to leave it was hooked solid on what I believe was a piece of an abandoned oil rig, those who have been by Rabbit Is. will know the rusting hulk I am talking about. For about 45 min. I tried pulling from every angle and could not get it to budge. I was going for the hacksaw when I remembered a suggestion fellow list member Charles from Patterson La. had given me years ago. Onboard I had a piece of 1/4" chain about 2' long, with it I made a loop around the anchor chain just outside of the bow roller with a shackle and fastened it to the end of a piece of 1/2" dock line. With the windlass I pulled the boat up tight so the anchor chain was vertical and lowered the loop down to the anchor, the chain, and anchor shank, being vertical let the loop slip down over the anchor shank. Then I loosened a good bit of anchor chain and keeping the 1/2" dock line fairly tight I drove the boat forward and the anchor came free right away. So I was able to save the brand new Delta and continue without too much delay. It worked for me then, I haven't had to use it since, maybe someone else can benefit, Thanks you again Charles!! P. S. Boatpoker: if you read this Jon & Candace on Isle of Skye spent the night at anchor with us that night we travelled eastward together till Ft Myers

This is the method I've planned to use if ever needed, so far we haven't snagged anything yet. The only thing I may do different is use the 17' center console we tow to pull it out. I'am happy to read that someone else has used this method with success, I have 300' chain rode and really don't want to donate any to the water gods.

 

[FlyWright]

I have seen the claw or Bruce anchors with the rode attached up near the fluks to that little hole. With the rode fastened to the end of the anchor using plastic wire ties. So the chain runs along the top of the shank. I suppose if you are really snagged the wire ties break and you are able to lift the anchor by the fluke end rather than the actual shank end part of the anchor. Kind of hard to explain without pictures.

I have never tried it but it looks like it could really work.

SD

They sell an Anchor Saver that performs similarly.

Anchor Saver® How It Works October 2010 V3.mp4 - YouTube