Anchor chain marking

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It was easy Steve. Simple as really. The only two things that were a bit of a challenge was the original magnet rusted away over about 2 years, so I just replaced it with a bigger rust-resistant ferrite one. Had to buy about 20 to get one. Still have the other 19 saved away somewhere.

The other thing was calibrating it - but not hard to do, just dropping a measured length into the marina by backing boat out about 6 feet. It's all in the 'structions... :)

I might think about putting one in, but running the wires from the windlass to the helm is a non starter for me. I love my Formula except for running things fore and aft. There just isn’t any easy way to do it without doing a lot of cutting. When I replaced the head in the boat I used the old discharge hose as a chase to run the new hose from the head to the engine room. It worked great but I don’t have any way to run to the rope locker. Oh well I guess paint will be my counter.
 
I see you threaded through every link. Has anyone tried every other link? So for example only the links that are horizontal as they run through the gypsy?

I don't think it matters...I believe I did it both ways as a trial.

The stiffer the line the better every other link I would guess
 
I don't think it matters...I believe I did it both ways as a trial.

The stiffer the line the better every other link I would guess


Thanks. I'll probably just experiment. I'm thinking that every other link, woven so it's on the outside of where the chain runs through the gypsy, will give the best visibility. I need to be able to see it from an aft pilot house, so a bit further than on many boats. For example, I tried colored zip ties and couldn't see them.
 
I see you threaded through every link. Has anyone tried every other link? So for example only the links that are horizontal as they run through the gypsy?

My only thought on every other link would be that you're more susceptible to get debris between the rope and the chain when the current reverses and the chain pulls the other way in a slack U turn.

For those of you with stainless steel chain, the line gets dirtier going through the mud than galvanized chain. It hoses off, but will be dirtier because of smaller spaces where mud can pack.

Ted
 
I might think about putting one in, but running the wires from the windlass to the helm is a non starter for me..... It worked great but I don’t have any way to run to the rope locker. Oh well I guess paint will be my counter.

Dave, as with nearly everything these days it can be done wirelessly. I have a wireless weather station that transmits readings to the home base unit inside about 100' away perfectly.

Here are some examples of wireless chain counters. Sure, they cost a bit more than the simpler wired ones, but hey...It's only money. If your radar or autopilot broke down you'd replace it without a thought, right..? :D

https://www.nauticexpo.com/boat-manufacturer/wireless-chain-counter-42412.html
 
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I see you threaded through every link. Has anyone tried every other link? So for example only the links that are horizontal as they run through the gypsy?

I have not loaded my chain yet so I can't be sure. Honestly, I'm a bit concerned the 1/4" cord may interfere with my 5/16" chain, especially since I have a horizontal (Ideal) windlass so 90-degrees of capture on the gypsy, but I'll update with results later.

To your point, since this is fresh in my mind as I laced the stuff this morning, the cord lays very nicely through each link. A snug tug on each as you lace keeps them close to the crossover point of each link. My hunch is every other link would be counter productive, but it's not a big deal to undo if it doesn't work.

TIP - I pulled my Sailrite Sewing Machine out of mothballs recently. I discovered a super cool toy: a hot knife (THE ONE I BOUGHT - HERE). I have an electric rope cutter but since this does double-duty to cut Sunbrella, I will retire the rope cutter. Very cool purchase. Obviously helpful to cut lengths of parachute cord for anchor marking.

Peter
 
They were a waste of my money and my time to instal them. It was fun watching them flip out coming over the roller. :lol:

I brought a load of them to my cousin in the Med several years ago. He installed them in an extremely complicated pattern. None of us could remember the sequence so he wrote and laminated a full page of instructions on how to interpret the markings. He said it was simple binary code. I just knew there was a long string of different colors every 10 meters!

Rob
 
My only thought on every other link would be that you're more susceptible to get debris between the rope and the chain when the current reverses and the chain pulls the other way in a slack U turn.

For those of you with stainless steel chain, the line gets dirtier going through the mud than galvanized chain. It hoses off, but will be dirtier because of smaller spaces where mud can pack.

Ted


Humm, good point.
 
I have not loaded my chain yet so I can't be sure. Honestly, I'm a bit concerned the 1/4" cord may interfere with my 5/16" chain, especially since I have a horizontal (Ideal) windlass so 90-degrees of capture on the gypsy, but I'll update with results later.

To your point, since this is fresh in my mind as I laced the stuff this morning, the cord lays very nicely through each link. A snug tug on each as you lace keeps them close to the crossover point of each link. My hunch is every other link would be counter productive, but it's not a big deal to undo if it doesn't work.

TIP - I pulled my Sailrite Sewing Machine out of mothballs recently. I discovered a super cool toy: a hot knife (THE ONE I BOUGHT - HERE). I have an electric rope cutter but since this does double-duty to cut Sunbrella, I will retire the rope cutter. Very cool purchase. Obviously helpful to cut lengths of parachute cord for anchor marking.

Peter


My chain is 1/4" G43 chain with the 1/2" poly line woven into it. As far as I can tell the windlass wildcat doesn't even notice. This line is the very flexible double hollow braided stuff, not the triple lay.

I wove mine through EVERY link.
 

Thanks for reminding me of that post. I didn't quite follow it at the time, but now think I understand. Or maybe not. Just reread for a third time...

So you are double weaving through every other link? And in the end a 4' line runs 2' feet forward, turns 180 deg, and runs 2' back? That different from what Weebles did, I think. From his picture it looks like he started at one point, wove through every link (vertical and horizontal links), then ended. Following your line, yours weaves through only the vertical links, but doing so for half the line length, then weaves back through the same links a second time in the opposite direction. So the two bitter ends are right next to each other, where Weables' are at opposite ends.

Or do I need to read it a fourth time? Any chance of a picture or two?
 
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I do the same with the exception I don't cut off the excess, never had any issue arise from the tails
Hollywood

I've always done the same. Every year or two one or more fall off and are replaced. My current boat came with painted markers which are starting to wear off and will be replaced with zipties. Like Hollywood says the tails don't cause a problem so leave them on for better visibility.
~A
 
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TIP - I pulled my Sailrite Sewing Machine out of mothballs recently. I discovered a super cool toy: a hot knife (THE ONE I BOUGHT - HERE). I have an electric rope cutter but since this does double-duty to cut Sunbrella, I will retire the rope cutter. Very cool purchase. Obviously helpful to cut lengths of parachute cord for anchor marking.

Peter

For those that haven't bought, but need, a hot knife, I was able to modify my rope cutter to serve well enough to cut sunbrella for a bunny pad cover, a dingy cover and two covers for deck units (sink and aft control station).

Take your knife cutter and remove the cutting blade by unscrewing the small retaining screws. Then take some coat hanger wire (or similar) ,bend into the desired shape which is a crescent curve and bend so that the ends will fit into the knife cutter. Then pound the curved section with a hammer to somewhat flatten it. Finally re-insert and you have a free hot knife.

Note: My first attempt used copper wire but it turned out that copper was too conductive and it partially melted the plastic case of the hot knife. I replaced with coat hanger wire and it works fine.
 
For those wanting to experiment with rope markers, just cut a piece or two and give it a try. You can experiment with whatever line you might have on hand, and you will immediately get a feel for what size fits in your chain and is visible.

I have painted markers every 50’ but it does fade a bit over time so I added rope markers a couple of years back and they are still there. It runs through the windlass with no problems and I really don’t think the weave pattern matters much. Try whatever looks right and you can change it later if needed.

If you are buying rope for this purpose, keep in mind that it will lay in the mud so try to use something bright and likely to rinse clean to maximize visibility.
 
My chain is 1/4" G43 chain with the 1/2" poly line woven into it. As far as I can tell the windlass wildcat doesn't even notice. This line is the very flexible double hollow braided stuff, not the triple lay.

I wove mine through EVERY link.



Darn, THe line size woven into my chain is 1/4" , NOT 1/2"

Sheesh, sorry I am too late to edit/change the original post.
 
For those that may have or can get used/old thicker 3 strand nylon or poly, you can always unlay it and use just 1 strand to weave.
 
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