Anchor Swivel

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

ERTF

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 16, 2017
Messages
305
Location
USA
Is this type of swivel with a stainless cotter pin trustworthy for long term anchoring?
 

Attachments

  • 20241011_122828.jpg
    20241011_122828.jpg
    151.1 KB · Views: 13
Short answer-no. Most people have gone to a Crosby shackle that has a working/break load equal to their chain. Most swivels, even the fancy stainless ones, are not rated. This should tell you something. It's not just the pull strength, but the side force that needs to be considered. The swivel shown has a built in failure point when it comes to side loading.
 
When you use the shackle, do NOT forget to wire tie the shackle pin to prevent it from loosening. This is called "seizing". Use Stainless Steel or Monel (nickle) wire only. The Shackle pin goes thru the slot in the shank of the anchor, just in case people did not know this.
 

Attachments

  • 1728670074567.png
    1728670074567.png
    210.9 KB · Views: 14
Last edited:
I saw on a YouTube three links of anchor chain prior to the swivel reduces the concern of side loading on the swivel.
 
When you use the shackle, do NOT forget to wire tie the shackle pin to prevent it from loosening. This is called "seizing". Use Stainless Steel or Monel (nickle) wire only. The Shackle pin goes thru the slot in the shank of the anchor, just in case people did not know this.
Not true. The Shackle pin goes through the rode/chain link. This allows the shackle to rotate on the shank, so the shackle is not side loaded. People will use two shackles if they can't get the shackle pin through the chain.
 
I saw on a YouTube three links of anchor chain prior to the swivel reduces the concern of side loading on the swivel.
Heard the same and agree..just don't like having to make it more complicated.... but that's just me.
 
Not true. The Shackle pin goes through the rode/chain link. This allows the shackle to rotate on the shank, so the shackle is not side loaded. People will use two shackles if they can't get the shackle pin through the chain.
Agree....
 
Not true. The Shackle pin goes through the rode/chain link. This allows the shackle to rotate on the shank, so the shackle is not side loaded. People will use two shackles if they can't get the shackle pin through the chain.
I have two shackles back to back reduce pin size to get through the chain but the recommendation I've seen is back to back should be crown to crown. So both shank and chain link have the pins through them. What's the best way to configure back to back shackles?

TIA
-tozz
 
At some point, it really doesn't matter if you can easily pull the chain past 90 degrees several times after twisting the chain several times on both sides of the shank. You are just trying to see if the chain will unset the anchor by reversing the pull or bend the shank because the shackle is wedged against it.

No matter what the rig, it's possible to bend the shank in some situations...at least that's what the hundreds of bent anchors at the salvage place I worked at suggested to me and the reports from some of their owners.
 
I find the Mantus swivel to be quite acceptable here.
Mantus swivel apart.JPG
 

Attachments

  • Mantus swivel.JPG
    Mantus swivel.JPG
    143.3 KB · Views: 7
  • DSC04184.JPG
    DSC04184.JPG
    76.5 KB · Views: 7
I find the Mantus swivel to be quite acceptable here.View attachment 159013
Mantus would be my choice if I used a swivel-superior design! Do they give working load?

psneeld: great points along with real world experience. It’s rare when anchor companies talk about shank strength. It’s always pull strength. One of the reasons I went with Sarca Excel: they use Bisalloy 80 shanks and add material to the connection point.

tozz: the reason most go with Crosby shackles is that they are the strongest and you can usually just need one that has the same working load as the chain. If I needed two, I would attach pin to pin to avoid side loading the shackle attached to the anchor. They are not designed/rated to be pulled on from the side due to the shackle not being able to rotate at the shank. All that pressure would be transferred directly to the nut/threads.
 
Thanks for reminder. I have swivel I want to remove as it has caused me concern of being the weak link.
My neighbor got his anchor right up to the boat and he watched his swivel fall apart in front of his eyes and he lost his anchor. That was my motivation to switch to crosby shackles.
 
Mantus would be my choice if I used a swivel-superior design! Do they give working load?
The three sizes of Mantus swivels come in 3000, 4340, and 7000 pound working loads. I have the 3000-pound model for my small boat and chain (1/4 inch G43), and the Mantus WLL is about 400 pounds more than the chain's WLL. IRT ultimate breaking strength, the chain is listed at 5200 pound while the Mantus is 15,000. You could hang my whole boat from a crane using the Mantus.
 
The three sizes of Mantus swivels come in 3000, 4340, and 7000 pound working loads. I have the 3000-pound model for my small boat and chain (1/4 inch G43), and the Mantus WLL is about 400 pounds more than the chain's WLL. IRT ultimate breaking strength, the chain is listed at 5200 pound while the Mantus is 15,000. You could hang my whole boat from a crane using the Mantus.
I recall looking at the Mantus and I needed 9000 WLL. My boat is 90t and it likes to swing pretty drastic at anchor, so I didnt want to compromise on anything. Plus the crosby shackle is super ugly, so I know it works.
 
Has anyone ever added a bigger link (mender ) to the end of their rode, so they could fit a bigger shackle pin? Is this adding the literal “weak link”?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom