Bottom paint, do it yourself or hire a pro?

[tiltrider1]

As I get older I am less interested in saving money. I did all my own bottom prep the last time because I wanted it done my way. However, the yard only wanted $100 to roll on the bottom paint, my time is worth more than that so I paid them to paint the bottom.

 

[Lollygag1]

Our yard is pretty laid back and will let you do the work but will not allow contractors unless they approve. We had the, paint it first year and I felt the job was ok but felt we could do it just as well. Last season I sanded and prepped the bottom and then my wife dond the tyvek suit and did the painting. She did not mind doing it and did a good job. We did 2 coats of Petit Hydrocoat last year when we changed color from black to green. Going to do one coat this year. It is a messy and dirty job but by painting it ourselves we save some dough which can be used for the stuff I am not able to do such as engine work and electrical.

 

[syjos]

Money is not the issue for me. Painting the bottom for me is part of owning a boat. If I can't paint the bottom of the boat, time to retire from boating. We bought Sandpiper from an 86 year old gentleman who I met in a boatyard while he was painting it's bottom. It's a good goal to strive for.

I crank up the tunes and get "one with my bottom". It's an opportunity to exam every inch of the bottom and assess it's condition.

If the painting is done properly and if enough coats of ablative paint is applied, the time between haul outs can be stretched. Continuous mixing of the paint is critical during application which an yard worker, irregardless of skill level, will not be as dilligent as me.

And since I'm not motivated by profit, my goal is to get as much ablative paint on the bottom as possible.

 

[jleonard]

I have always done my own. I'll be honest in that if I had to pay all these years I never would have been able to afford boating. And not just bottom painting....everything.
I never really sand a lot, I would call it scratching or scuffing. And now I use a drywall sanding stick so I don't have to crawl around as much.
Then a quick acetone wipe to remove the dust.
Roll on the paint using a croquet mallet handle for a stick.
Done.

 

[Redhook98]

Having mine pulled in April. Quoted $2300 for the haul out, blocking, pressure washing, scraping, sanding, bottom paint (4 gallons of Trinidad), new zincs and repack my rudder stuffing boxes. This is for s 49-ft MT.


I used to do it myself. When I couldn't afford to have others do it, and my back worked better.


I did my 1963 36-ft steel hulled CC Roamer once in July in Virginia. Never, ever again will I bottom paint a boat. Between stripping 30 coats of bottom paint off, re-plating part of the steel hull and building new SS rudder stuffing boxes, I almost died (or wanted too).

 

[Tomas]

Redhook, you have an incredible quote, the 4 gal of Trinidad alone are over $1000 (not to mention the cost of anodes). Hard to figure where the yard makes it's profit.

 

[Redhook98]

Redhook, you have an incredible quote, the 4 gal of Trinidad alone are over $1000 (not to mention the cost of anodes). Hard to figure where the yard makes it's profit.

Pretty sure they are a bunch cheaper in bulk, and to Marinas directly. Either way, yes, it is a good deal. Its a five hour cruise there (at 8 knots), but will be a good shake-down. It was painted last April by the same people with Trinidad. I am pulling mostly to assess the zincs and take care of the rudder boxes. The paint is just an addition for me.

 

[cruisedon66]

EPA Restrictions on paint

I inquired about bottom paint whe we were on the hard at our local yard.
Port Charles Harbor St. Charles, MO

Paul told me the EPA regulations are very strict
in the south. Especially FL.
Even the type of sand, media, soda blasting they can do.
Not to mentiion the paint itself.

So, if you may want to look at stateswith less. EPA restrictions when shopping for better paint job. And plan to have it done while doing The Great Loop.

Port charles harbor

 

[Begorrah]

LaConner Maritime is a good place to go. Haul, pressure wash, block, tarp and splash by them. You cannot sand or grind (EPA)but if you are quick you can grind a few blisters. Should not have to sand. My 32 usually cost about $800 including cost of paint. For a laborer I used Labor Ready ( now People Ready) You can replace the zincs yourself.

 

[Bill Wells]

Bottom Paint

I haul my boat every 2 or 3 years. I always have the yard do it. As someone mentioned painting is the easy part. Prep is everything, then there is hazaardus waste disposal. I think I paid about $1500 the last time including pressure wash, sanding, new zincs. 36' by 10' semi-displacement.... wood recauking adds another thousand every few years.

 

[Andiamo2018]

If you like working with your hands do it., You can learn a lot as you go and you will for sure save money, if not right away in the long run. If you don't enjoy it or can't get the time and you can afford to have the yard do it then go that route.

You can learn what you need to know. Tools etc will all add up but if you keep doing your own work you and your boat will be better off. But a good relationship with a good yard is the next best thing.

 

[BobMc]

My determinative factor is that my body doesn't tolerate all the hands and arms high work. I pay a pro - it saves a lot on my medical costs! Never have done the bottom work myself in 20 plus years of owning a trawler.

So given the fact that I have a full time job, do I take a few days off to do a light sand and paint or hire a pro? Thinking it will take me 5 days total to do everything.

Ron R.

 

[Bob Cofer]

I haul my boat every 2 or 3 years. I always have the yard do it. As someone mentioned painting is the easy part. Prep is everything, then there is hazaardus waste disposal. I think I paid about $1500 the last time including pressure wash, sanding, new zincs. 36' by 10' semi-displacement.... wood recauking adds another thousand every few years.

Bill,

What is your boat?

Bob

 

[angus99]

Wow, some of you guys are getting pretty good prices. I’ve had two quotes here in TN for a 44 ft with almost-full-displacement hull, both about the same as below. As I noted in another thread, this yard wants another $800 to upgrade the paint—paint which any of us can buy for $400. (These numbers are updated from my original post.) So that would be $4,300 total with me replacing the anodes. I declined and am still looking for a decent quote.

I guess boatyards are like real estate: location, location, location.

 

[Larry M]

...that would be $4,300 total with me replacing the anodes...I guess boatyards are like real estate: location, location, location.

Ian: Yikes! I think your right on location. We’re on the marina mile in Jacksonville with 3 full service boats with in 1/2 mile of each other so completion is a good thing. Your costs are double what we paid. Here, the zincs if owner are supplied, are included in the price.

 

[Newtrawlerowner]

Bottom Paint

Looking to get a fresh coat of polishing bottom paint on the 33' Egg Harbor. I have never done this type of work, the current paint looks ok with very little growth and only barnacles on the props/shafts/rudders/tabs. I plan on a few other items to get fixed while its out, swim step mounts, re-seal exhaust outlets.

These pictures are from about 6 Months ago when we took it out for the survey. The last time the boat was out of the water prior to this was 4 years ago. I think the current paint is a interlux brand, as all other paint cans from the PO are Interlux products.

So given the fact that I have a full time job, do I take a few days off to do a light sand and paint or hire a pro? Thinking it will take me 5 days total to do everything.
Any ideas of cost? Looking at Interlux Micon 66, but open to other options. Boat is located in Everett WA.

If you know a company please pass on the info.

Ron R.

I've done both. Painted myself and had a boat yard do the work. I'm in southeast Florida and even Do It Yourself Boatyards require you buy the paint from them, use their sander and pay an environmental /disposal fee. $200 gallon is correct if you use a quality paint. Be sure to check your estimate.

40 foot boats need 2.5-3 gallons.


As others have said you still need to pay for haul,block,launch and daily yard rate. That alone can be $800-$1000.


I'm getting a 40 foot Mainship painted now. Over the phone estimate was $3250 to haul, power wash, block, paint and relaunch. A decent price compared to other estimates I got.



I have to have bottom scraped by a diver every other month and paint can last 2-3 seasons. I haul during hurricane season.


Props and running gear need doing every season. Zincs at least 2 times a year.


Fresh water can help make paint last longer.

 

[clyde]

if you have it done, watch them closley! i always put on 2 coats, around the waterline, down abt 12"+ i put 3 coats...clyde

 

[va3mrj]

If its ablative paint a quick sand with 100 grit, wash and repaint. My wfe and I do our 43 foot trawler before launch in half a day and 2 gallons of paint.

 

[johnma]

from the photos, the bottom doesn't look that bad. I see no need to sand, just paint with the same stuff thats on there now. You don't even need to do that great of a job. Each year I just touch up where the old paint has worn off. In 40 years I have never once had a fish stick his head out of the water and yell "hey $hithead your paint job looks like crap"
John

 

[Cartouche]

Get a long handle for the roller Takes me a day I don't sand just pressure wash let dry, and a coat of Interlux. coming from the sailing world you never pay to have it done. costs me $100. for a gallon and a insert for the tray and two Foam rollers

 

[RonR]

Wish me luck then ! I am all stocked up on 3m supplies for my sander, got the right HEPA filter for the vacuum. Bought 3 gallons of Interlux Micron CSC (same as what's on it now). Pulling it out Friday am. Prob take me a week with the new swim step bracket fab, fix the exhaust leak and a few other items.


Suns out and there is nothing much else to do !

 

[Begorrah]

you should not need to sand. yard will not like it if you do. epa won't like it. may have to scrape it a little to get loose paint off. most yards will not allow grinding or sanding. before you paint you need to pressure wash. get a bid from the yard. they might paint it for a reasonable price. you can replace the zinks while it's out of the water.

 

[Begorrah]

I found that it was a lot easier to have the yard pull it out, presure wash while it is still in the slings, block and level and put a tarp on the ground. Then you can paint it or have the yard paint. I don't recommend painting the shafts, props or rudders. After you get it back in the salt have a diver go down twice a year and clean the bottom and check the zinks.

 

[syjos]

Sanding is permitted at most do it yourself yards as long as you use a dust free sander and a HEPA vacuum.

Sanding depends on the existing bottom paint. On most ablative bottom paint, a through pressure wash is all that is necessary. The waterline area may have some oil or other contaminants preventing a good bond. I will wipe the waterline area with paint thinner compatible with the new paint to remove oily residue.

If the waterline area is in bad shape, I will sand that area only.

Right before applying new paint, I wipe the entire bottom with liquid sandpaper with a clean cloth, to clean and soften the old paint to promote better adhesion with the new paint.

I paint the prop, shaft, keel shoe and stern bearing housing with bottom paint with great success. I prime the bronze with Interlux Interprotect 200 epoxy barrier coat to prime and electrically isolate the copper in the bottom paint from the bronze hardware.

Without the epoxy barrier coat isolating the copper in the paint from the bronze, the copper in the bottom paint will wear away quickly.

I get about 4 years from painting the prop. My prop spins at about 600 to 700 RPM so the paint wears at a slower rate. I do apply 3 to 4 coats of bottom paint on the prop.

Interlux's Paint Guide and web site describes the painting of underwater metals using an epoxy barrier coat in great detail.

 

[RonR]

Sanding is permitted at most do it yourself yards as long as you use a dust free sander and a HEPA vacuum.

Sanding depends on the existing bottom paint. On most ablative bottom paint, a through pressure wash is all that is necessary. The waterline area may have some oil or other contaminants preventing a good bond. I will wipe the waterline area with paint thinner compatible with the new paint to remove oily residue.

If the waterline area is in bad shape, I will sand that area only.

Right before applying new paint, I wipe the entire bottom with liquid sandpaper with a clean cloth, to clean and soften the old paint to promote better adhesion with the new paint.

I paint the prop, shaft, keel shoe and stern bearing housing with bottom paint with great success. I prime the bronze with Interlux Interprotect 200 epoxy barrier coat to prime and electrically isolate the copper in the bottom paint from the bronze hardware.

Without the epoxy barrier coat isolating the copper in the paint from the bronze, the copper in the bottom paint will wear away quickly.

I get about 4 years from painting the prop. My prop spins at about 600 to 700 RPM so the paint wears at a slower rate. I do apply 3 to 4 coats of bottom paint on the prop.

Interlux's Paint Guide and web site describes the painting of underwater metals using an epoxy barrier coat in great detail.

Sounds like about the plan I am doing. I have the proper ppe/HEPA filter in the vacuum hooked to my sander.
The yard will hall out, pressure wash, block for me.
I plan on sanding the water line down about 2 feet as the build up is high. I also got the interlux primer for the shafts/rudders/props/trim tabs. Im not sanding it down to gell coat, just taking the high build area down a bit.
I have 3 gallons, that should be well more than enough for two coats on everything and 3 from the water line down about 2 feet.

The hard part will be removing the swim step brackets and fabricating new ones out of stainless, (old ones are aluminum). And one exhaust port leaks, I know what one it is, but its probably not been off the boat in about 30 years and is very hard to get to... im sure its going to fight me.

Once again, thank you to everyone that gave advice.

Ron R.

 

[Sleepy Crab]

When I first bought this boat, it took me a half a day to paint the bottom. 7 years later, it takes me a day and a half. Can't figure it out; the boat's the same size. What could have changed?

 

[Begorrah]

I'm 85. That's why I hire the yard.

 

[Lollygag1]

Perhaps use a brush vs fingers?

Takes my wife a 1/2 a day to paint the bottom.

 

[rslifkin]

When I first bought this boat, it took me a half a day to paint the bottom. 7 years later, it takes me a day and a half. Can't figure it out; the boat's the same size. What could have changed?

You got picky and started trying to make sure it's absolutely perfect?

 

[syjos]

When I first bought this boat, it took me a half a day to paint the bottom. 7 years later, it takes me a day and a half. Can't figure it out; the boat's the same size. What could have changed?

Your arms got shorter as you aged.