Looks nice. I had a cousin-in-law build a boat 30 years ago, but I don't know where he got the design. I do know I refused to go on it's maiden voyage. I also know it flipped over sideways as it got closer to the inlet. They got to shore and then got a wrecker to pull it to where they could put it back on the trailer.
But the Union Jack looks nice. I'm missing the semi-displacement part on it, but the other aspects all seem to work.
Recognize that building in steel means no compound curves unless the plate is shaped somehow. You can bend plate one way, you can bend it the other way, but not both. So unless you have some elaborate construction techniques, the hull is not easy to build with pretty lines or good hydrodynamics.
I've built stuff in steel, not a boat though, and I've built a cold molded boat. Both are miserable projects involving dust, noise, heat, and injuries. But I would much rather go cold molded over steel. The amount of cutting and grinding necessary is staggering. And unless an expert, hull will be bumpy.
Alloy, no way. Steel corrodes at a slow predictable rate. When alloy gets into a corrosive situation, it can attack rapidly and locally. And hard to weld properly. I can't weld alloy worth a crap. Steel, no problem.
Here are some links to the actual construction of several Union Jacks. I think you can get a pretty good idea of the process from them.
UNION JACK by Scott A. Ochocki (1-02)
UNION JACK by Pat Walsh, Ireland (8-04)
UNION JACK by David Ainge, Townsville, Australia (10-08)
UNION JACK by Seahorse Marine, Zhuhai, China
Happy browsing/dreaming
If you are not already aware of the fact that the hull no matter the material is the cheapest part of the boat ,know it now. Most of the time and money that go into a new build is based on the guts and finish. The only way the home build becomes a bargain is if owner builder has the skill/know-how and puts the time(lots of time) into the construction. If the home build is not very well done the real cost can come when you have to sell. For the vast majority a used production boat or somebody's used custom or home made is the best way to go. If you have the skills and time and really enjoy building go ahead but be aware that you probably will not save money in the long run. Steel is good building stuff so are all the other options with one big admonition, it has to be done right. For a home builder ply composite is probably easiest to get a good fair job and starting with a professionally molded bare hull such as a DE lobster hull even better. A lot to think about good luck. Ed.
A well built steel boat with a low center of gravity is like a turtle. Slow but well armored against the weather it just plods along. With the current forecasts good for at least 3 days of warning before you get winds over 40 knots I don't think running for cover is a big deal. I bet the change of plans is no less the 6000 us.
.Peter,
Thank you for your e-mail enquiry about a design for a 34ft trawler yacht.
I am somewhat wary of designing in steel for speeds of up to 15kts - a speed which is in the planing zone for a boat of this size - and would recommend you to reduce your maximum speed expectation to 10-12knots. That said I would be pleased to design something for you and my fees would be a minimum of £15,000 - £20,000 plus VAT if applicable. Please let me know if this is of interest.
Regards,
Andrew Wolstenholme
Where did I leave that lottery ticket...?
Well, I was on the low end of his range but did think it would be at least that. Naval architects don't come cheap. And obviously the speed you were expecting is gone. I couldn't see that boat being able to do that. I wouldn't be surprised to see 10-12 knots turn into 8-10.
@Peter, have you looked at Bruce Roberts website. An example is this workboat. Sold as CNC Cutting files. ( £1,595 )
Link: Bruce Roberts COASTWORKER
Link of the assembling: Kit assembling photos
That's more in by budget!:lol:
It's a pretty hull, and the plans even include NC cutting files if you want to get the plates plasma cut. I suppose it's either stack em' high sell them cheap, or custom design for wealthy customers at £20k a pop.
Fantastic value from Bruce Roberts!
If you are only interrested in the hull then it can be even cheaper (£695,00) this is the same hull.
Link: EURO 12mtr.
Now that's what you call real value.
...but unfortunately I was hoping to build a S/D trawler with a 15kts max cruise.
If you are not already aware of the fact that the hull no matter the material is the cheapest part of the boat ,know it now. Most of the time and money that go into a new build is based on the guts and finish. The only way the home build becomes a bargain is if owner builder has the skill/know-how and puts the time(lots of time) into the construction. If the home build is not very well done the real cost can come when you have to sell. For the vast majority a used production boat or somebody's used custom or home made is the best way to go. If you have the skills and time and really enjoy building go ahead but be aware that you probably will not save money in the long run. Steel is good building stuff so are all the other options with one big admonition, it has to be done right. For a home builder ply composite is probably easiest to get a good fair job and starting with a professionally molded bare hull such as a DE lobster hull even better. A lot to think about good luck. Ed.
Wesmac.
Hi Peter, just in case steel isn't ruled out yet: I've spent some time on a Pedro Donky 30. These boats were built for higher than classical full-displacement speeds (look at the flat aft section). The weight is on the low side for a steel-boat of this size and the overall profile is rather low (a Swift-Trawler 34 or a Grand Banks 32 will "tower" the Donky's by a good bit).
Fuel Economy and simple tech in mind we opted for the old Volvo MD31 engine (62HP), but this one wasn't available anymore and we got a Volvo TAMD 31M (110HP) instead. Don't recall exact top-speed in calm water, but it was close to 8.5 knots (and way too loud for our taste).
Other Donky's had much more powerful engines installed, a speed of 12+ knots should be possible. I recall a Donky built for UK-based gents with trim-tabs and (if memory serves) two TAMD41B's (200HP each) installed.
So steel-construction and S/D-speeds can be brought or better forced in line, if really desired.
Please excuse my limited "English", Georg.
I would look at the Muscle Ridge 42 instead of the Wesmac, unless you had very deep pockets. The Wesmacs are the gold standard of Downeast hulls but if your doing the build yourself, nobody will pay top retail for it down the road. The Muscle Ridge boats are very well built, hard chine (like Wesmac) and a nice platform to begin.