Charging LifePO4 batteries.

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I have two meters that show SOC. One is off the shunt, the other direct from the BMS of the batteries. These batteries are interconnected with cat5 cable and one to the monitor.
At 7am I show 95% SOC and charge was on float 13.6v with no current (this is norm after reaching 100%). Current only shows when there is a demand so bats are kept at full charge.
The manual suggests absorb time for 800Ah to be 150 minutes. But that did not happen in the past 24. It reached 14.4 and went to float. During charge from depleted I can see 0.6v higher charge than battery voltage which shunt and BMS display.

It is that 150 minute suggested Absorb that never happens that has me wondering. Usually only with shore power do I get to 100% SOC most of the time. I did get there on a 4 hour run with GEN running.
Steve, are you referring to the Magnasine manual for that 150 minute absorb time for a 800ah bank? I would pay more attention to what your battery manufacturer specifies.

Can you check to see what your battery manufacturer recommends for;
Bulk charging max amperage
Absorb Voltage
Absorb time
Float voltage.

I'm not sure that I ever saw what those values are from your battery manufacturer.
 
Just check if the batteries are balanced, that is the one important item.
@Mambo42 My batteries claim to self balance between cells and between the batteries. How would one check to see if they are balanced? disconnect cables?
But there is no reason to charge them all the way to 100% during your cruise.
@READY that is what I wanted to hear. Yes about 400A per 24hr and yes to charging enough for next day.
As pointed out SOC can be very confusing or misleading if it is not properly set up or recalibrate.
Properly set? my direct monitor to the BMS sets itself, my shunt monitor was set to match BMS says 100%.
I’m still confused if where you are seeing the recommendation for 150 min of absorb. That sounds like charging for lead, not LFP.
@twistedtree I think you hit the nail on the head. It was suggested in the remote setting manual, not the battery manual. I have reduced the remote time to lowest setting 0.1 or six minutes. I am at nearly full charge now so will wait to deplete to see if BMS takes over absorb time as I watched it rapidly decrease charge amp to 1.1 before switching to float.
 
Can you check to see what your battery manufacturer recommends for;
Bulk charging max amperage 50A x 8= 400A
Absorb Voltage 14.4
Absorb time not mentioned (BMS manages?), Victron suggests 1 hour
Float voltage. 13.6

Depending on the length of time between manufacturing and shipping, the battery may be received at a partial state of charge. Please fully charge the battery prior to the initial use.
First charge
During the standard charging process, the battery is first charged at a constant current of20A until the battery voltage reaches 14.4V. Then, the battery is charged at a constant voltage of 14.4V while tapering the charge current. The standard charging process is considered complete when the charge current is less than 2A. However, leaving the battery on float will continue to balance the battery cells and will not damage the battery. The standard charging process normally takes 7 hours. Safe charging requires battery temperatures between 32°F and 131°F (0°C and 55°C).
 
Ok, so with the Magnasine charger I don't think it allows to set a tail charge, only a max Absorb time.

When you are away from the dock for a number of days, I would worry too much about the % SOC.

I don't have Lithium, but I simply will run the Genset for a couple hours in the morning to get into the absorb stage and add enough amps back in to hold us for the day. In your case, I would probably charge for a couple hours even that first morning even if you haven't discharged them very deeply.
 
Absorb, or the lack of it until 100% SOC was the reason for the thread since when cruising it never or seldom gets absorb yet we are told LFP does not need to be fully charged each time. without a full charge I am not getting to the absorb stage. That is my confusion.
Those voltages sound high.

Just some additional thinking out loud on the topic overall.... Please take everything I say on the topic with a grain of salt.

It would seem, for absorb, you cant really just say that there is a standard absorption time. A need to absorb, or not can be based on a few things:
1) do you have a need for balancing
2) absorption voltage setting

It really is amazing how Lifepo4 cells respond to various voltages, and differences of just a few tenths of a volt can make all the difference in the world...and then the next few tenths of a volt hardly matter.

Take a look at two extremes. Use the Epoch 460 Marine as an example. Balancing begins at 13.35v and .030 cell deviation. That is just a piece of info to consider in the background when talking about absorption since poor practices could eventually affect balancing.

See Ben Steins excellent testing here:
Charging LiFePO4, what's the impact of lower voltages?

In these tests you can see a graph of actual measured capacity after charging to various voltages. As you can see 100% measured capacity can be achieved with voltages as low as 13.5 volts. The chart lower down the page has additional details like charged time. As you can see...you can in fact get to 100% actual rated capacity at 13.5 volts but it takes forever. 6 hours and 15 minutes for this 12volt 100ah batt! At an absorption voltage of 13.5 volts that battery will spend a VERY long time in absorption to reach 100% rated capacity. In the case of the Epoch example, we will be over the 13.35v threshold to begin balancing. We probably will be over the .030v deviation between cells at some point in that charge range so balancing will take place. Certainly since the absorption took so long to reach 100% SOC (as measured by discharge cap checking) the current during that time would be very very low so the low current passive balancer will have plenty of time to act. However the split between cells at such a low voltage and low current will not present a large disparity in cell deviation. It is this cell deviation that can be acted on by the balance mechanism that actually allows for effective balancing. So the additional time works to compensate.

Then look at a charge voltage of 14.6 v. The very same actual measured capacity (SOC) is reached using 14.6 as we reached with 13.5. But it took 3 hours and 30 minutes LESS time at 14.6 volts! For a battery charged to this high of an absorption voltage there will be pretty much zero need for any additional absorption time for the battery pack to charge to rated capacity. During a charge to 14.6 absorption, the cell deviation will be pushed much farther and result in a much higher cell delta when in these higher voltages. But it also results in some balancing via the Epochs passive balancer. But there will be more deviation remaining at the end of this charge. As these voltages get higher and higher things happen faster and faster. Once you hit absorption point at 14.6 the current will take a very rapid nose dive. It will do this because there are simply "no more seats at the table" at this voltage level. Where as reaching an absorption voltage at 13.5 there is a tremendous amount of "seats at the table" remaining as you hit that 13.5 and it takes hours of absorption to fill those remaining seats to achieve full capacity.. Between the 13.5 example and the 14.6 example there is a continuum in absorption time requirements to reach actual rated capacity. Probably not a linear continuum. Probably anything over 14.0 or 14.1 will not require any additional absorption time or at least very minimal. I use 13.9 with just a bit of absorption

So slight differences in voltage make huge differences in behavior and affect absorption requirements to reach rated capacity and can affect balancing. At the very very high voltage you are charging , there is no need to absorb further. And if for some reason your balancing delta was growing over time then a reduction in charge current and a reduction in absorption voltage followed by a longer absorption would probably be warranted. Some chargers or BMS's shut off charging based on tail current once at absorption voltage for this reason. Others prefer the timed approach possibly for additional balance time. Active balancers may require some additional time.

Your SOC meters are secondary to this voltage and amperage information that could be gleaned from just watching the voltage and current at the upper charge range of 13.5 to 14.6. It is this voltage and amperage info that will actually tell you if your batteries are charged to a particular "rated capacity". With just about any absorption voltage over 13.8 and charge tail current falling to 1 to 2%, you are fully charged regardless of what your SOC meter states.

Too much stock has been placed on the SOC gauge. They aren't actually anchored to anything except a known start point, which is full full full. Then count backwards from there. While it is somewhat useful...IMO get back in the habit of monitoring voltages and amperages at the tops of charge cycles to determine full. At least on occasion. SOC meters can drift, especially the ones that dont have settable charge detection parameters like the ones contained in drop in batteries or basic off the shelf BMS's. I have asked Epoch to add a button in the app to "Reset to 100% SOC". I would have no hesitation hitting such a button if I have observed the voltages and amperages at the top of a charge cycle and be confidant that I have correctly determined full capacity better than many SOC meters that do not have settable charged detection parameters. That is if I was actually watching at the top of the charge cycle..lol.
 
Yep. More convinced than ever we overthink the details of charging LFP! If 10 years later I can even hope for retaining 50% of original capacity I am thrilled. Anyone have first hand evidence of killing or massively decreasing the capacity with a solid brand with BMS and a decent charger designed for LFP?

Probably within 5 years we will all be looking to upgrade to some new tech battery that has 2x the power at half the size and price.

Go enjoy boating!
 
Yep. More convinced than ever we overthink the details of charging LFP! If 10 years later I can even hope for retaining 50% of original capacity I am thrilled. Anyone have first hand evidence of killing or massively decreasing the capacity with a solid brand with BMS and a decent charger designed for LFP?

Probably within 5 years we will all be looking to upgrade to some new tech battery that has 2x the power at half the size and price.

Go enjoy boating!
Check this thread. LFP batteries
 
@Barking Sands Thanks for this information and link. I have heard about this trend to lower set point for when absorb starts. I have been cycling discharge/charge today to observe.

Now I will set a custom charge for 13.9v before absorb with 60 minute time frame and see how that goes.
 
Yep. More convinced than ever we overthink the details of charging LFP! If 10 years later I can even hope for retaining 50% of original capacity I am thrilled. Anyone have first hand evidence of killing or massively decreasing the capacity with a solid brand with BMS and a decent charger designed for LFP?

Probably within 5 years we will all be looking to upgrade to some new tech battery that has 2x the power at half the size and price.

Go enjoy boating!
Why would you want 50% capacity in 10 years? That's quite a bit of decline over time and you may extrapolate 25% decline in 5 years. That would be unacceptable to most.

Rod Collins just did his 15 year anniversary capacity test and still got over 100% capacity out of his 400ah bank. He espouses an absorption of 13.8 and float of 13.5. i have talked to atleast 3 people in the last several months that had various battery brands fail. Including Victron, Battle Born and others as well as quite a few Firefly batteries. The reasons for failure of course may not be completely known, but operational and charge details is suspected in some.

Discussing and learning the details of any battery and system Imo is worthwhile.
 
I never want to use 14.6, 14.2 is fine. Idle at 13.5 is fine. You really want to cycle these batteries in the middle range to get the most life and since the "middle" has a nice flat slope, not much voltage drop is seen either.

Really the best choice for house batts - :)
 
@Barking Sands Thanks for this information and link. I have heard about this trend to lower set point for when absorb starts. I have been cycling discharge/charge today to observe.

Now I will set a custom charge for 13.9v before absorb with 60 minute time frame and see how that goes.
I think you said you had solar. The conclusions I have come to is that an absorption voltage range of 13.8 to 14.2 is probably fine. If you have plenty of time and plenty of amps to charge with I would trend towards the 13.8 range. But if you have limited solar, limited daylight and no gen or dont want to run gen then your priority is to at least keep up charging with daily demand. In that case I would probably push up the voltage closer to the 14.2. You can reference the chart in the Ben Stein article on how that affects "time to capacity". A few tenths in voltage may be the difference between maintaining...or not. That article is a great reference. I know he put a lot of time into compiling that data.
 
My charger is set to start bulk charge if shore power is lost and go through the bulk, absorb float cycle.
At 7:08am with 95% SOC I turned off power, then on.
At 8:10am it went to 100% SOC and shows 14.66v with 3 amp charge.
At 8:25am still 100% SOC with 14.72v and 1.3 amp charge.
At 8:40am 100% SOC 14.63v and 1.0 amp charge.

Absorb, or the lack of it until 100% SOC was the reason for the thread since when cruising it never or seldom gets absorb yet we are told LFP does not need to be fully charged each time. without a full charge I am not getting to the absorb stage. That is my confusion.
For lithium batteries I would not have a charger getting up to the voltages you quote. Under 14.6 for me! Even that is higher than needed in practice as the last 0.1 or 0.2V gives little extra benefit.
 
I think you said you had solar. The conclusions I have come to is that an absorption voltage range of 13.8 to 14.2 is probably fine. If you have plenty of time and plenty of amps to charge with I would trend towards the 13.8 range. But if you have limited solar, limited daylight and no gen or dont want to run gen then your priority is to at least keep up charging with daily demand. In that case I would probably push up the voltage closer to the 14.2. You can reference the chart in the Ben Stein article on how that affects "time to capacity". A few tenths in voltage may be the difference between maintaining...or not. That article is a great reference. I know he put a lot of time into compiling that data.
I do not have solar. I tried the 13.9 setting and as it was not depleted enough it went into absorb too quickly and was dropping current fast Causing SOC to rise too slowly. Will give it a go when more depleted.
 
For lithium batteries I would not have a charger getting up to the voltages you quote. Under 14.6 for me! Even that is higher than needed in practice as the last 0.1 or 0.2V gives little extra benefit.
I did not want to add to this by saying that the chart is 0.2 or so higher than actual. 14.4v is the battery recommended charge.
 
SteveK, remember I suggested it was time to unbox those panels sitting idle? Think of the benefits of solar, nagging away (like me) at those batteries. And a silent somnolent genset.
 
SteveK, remember I suggested it was time to unbox those panels sitting idle? Think of the benefits of solar, nagging away (like me) at those batteries. And a silent somnolent genset.
Bruce, I know, the debate in my head goes on.
The 400 watt system will not put a big enough dent into my charging needs. Under ideal conditions I may get a few days of 20A charge per hour for maybe 8 hours. 160A potential does not do it for me when I need to charge back 400A, when most likely reality will be 100A or less daily. The MPPT is 40 amp so would run 800 watts but then I do not have the footprint for these panels. A thought is to sell panels and get newer ones that have 800w in a smaller footprint. Then it makes sense to me. Meanwhile, work with what I have.
 
This morning I found 125Ah were used and voltage at 13.2.
Set at 13.9v for start of absorb I turned on the two chargers. Within 15 minutes the chargers were pumping out 13.9v and went to absorb. The problem was the battery was still at 13.6v and the two chargers then decided who will be full throttle and who will be slave. The slave reading the output of the master derated the charge amps so the total amps were now 130 instead of like before 200. So setting at 13.9v for absorb does not work for me. Changed to the manual suggested 14.4v and they were then bulk charging at 200A as voltage increased towards 14.4. This setting before would go to absorb when the battery voltage was at around 14v and 95% SOC.
No charge time saved, in fact if I let it carry on at lower charge rate absorb time would be longer. More reading to do.
 
Do your chargers have remote battery voltage sense? It sounds like not if they are reading 13.9 when the batteries are actually 13.6V.
 
Bruce, I know, the debate in my head goes on.
The 400 watt system will not put a big enough dent into my charging needs. Under ideal conditions I may get a few days of 20A charge per hour for maybe 8 hours. 160A potential does not do it for me when I need to charge back 400A, when most likely reality will be 100A or less daily. The MPPT is 40 amp so would run 800 watts but then I do not have the footprint for these panels. A thought is to sell panels and get newer ones that have 800w in a smaller footprint. Then it makes sense to me. Meanwhile, work with what I have.
From 400 watts of solar during summer I'd expect you're going to get 1.5 - 2 kwh of production on a good sunny day. So figure something like 110 - 160 amp hours per day in good weather. More solar would be better, but even that would be enough to cut down your generator runtime by 30 - 45 minutes per day most of the time. Not huge, but it adds up, especially if you have most of the stuff to install the solar setup and the cost of doing it is low.
 
Do your chargers have remote battery voltage sense? It sounds like not if they are reading 13.9 when the batteries are actually 13.6V.
You got it. That is what I am missing. The shunt I have is not talking to the charger. It is stand alone. There is a shunt designed for this and I guess I have to get it to retry the reduced absorb setting. I have been observing 0.6v difference during bulk charging. During absorb they became the same.
 
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