Do you really need an inverter?

[supertramp]

Is the protection for the inverter output internal to the inverter?
.

My Xantrex inverter ( solo inverter ) has a protection intern for output line.
My output has a ON/OFF switch in line to the panel--no more.
_____________________
Norbert

 

[rwidman]

My Xantrex inverter ( solo inverter ) has a protection intern for output line.
My output has a ON/OFF switch in line to the panel--no more.
_____________________
Norbert

I believe mine does too but it's 25 amp and where the inverter is installed, I would have to remove some screws to get to it. That's why I put a breaker in the electrical panel.

As long as the internal protection is appropriate for the wires and outlets, you are fine as is.

 

[supertramp]

I believe mine does too but it's 25 amp and where the inverter is installed, I would have to remove some screws to get to it. That's why I put a breaker in the electrical panel.

As long as the internal protection is appropriate for the wires and outlets, you are fine as is.

Ron , take a look in your inverter-manual and you know your inverter has an intern protect on the output side or not.
My 3000 Xantrex are protected but the model not so big are not this protection.

________________________
Norbert

 

[rwidman]

Ron , take a look in your inverter-manual and you know your inverter has an intern protect on the output side or not.
My 3000 Xantrex are protected but the model not so big are not this protection.

________________________
Norbert

The manual is on the boat, but as I have it wired, I have external circuit protection appropriate for the wires that feed the receptacles.

 

[Capthead]

I'm like supertramp. A very simple hookup and it's worked great since I bought it. Mine is the Prosine before Xantrex and 1800 W. I run the whole boat with it and as I have propane to cook with I use AC for the fridge and TV if I ever watch it. I usually never watch TV off shore so my draw is the percentage of loss from the Prosine and the fridge that burns 155 watts for a total of 4 hours a day, divided throughout the day of course.

 

[FlyWright]

Many manuals are available online today.

Mark, the engine-driven alternators (usually not generators) provide the DC charge to the batteries and would be located upstream from the batts. Therefore, they're not a real player in the AC schematic of power distribution.

 

[jtbedell]

We boat with a generator & inverter and I value them both. I dislike running a generator for five minutes to make coffee and then, an hour later firing it up for breakfast. It just seems to be rude to others who value their quiet in the AM. Our Freedom 20 inverter can power anything other than the AC Units. I would never run the stove on it but I know it will fire it up. Currently it runs off four group 8 AGM batteries that came with the boat but I will replace them with golf carts when they fail. Starting a generator, especially a diesel, for a few minutes will shorten its life considerably so the inverter actually pays for itself in generator maintenance.

 

[CaptTom]

When I finally figured out how my inverter and AC panel are wired, I came to like it.

There are three circuit breakers on the main panel which are fed from a SPDT switch. One side comes from the inverter, the other from the main AC breaker. Of course the inverter itself is fed from a different breaker in the panel.

I can set the inverter on automatic, and the switch to "inverter", and those three circuits are fed from the AC main, through the inverter. If shore power is dropped, the inverter switches over and powers those three. When power comes back, they're back to sucking shore power.

The three breakers are (1) all the stbd outlets, (2) all the port outlets, and (3) the refrigerator.

I've tried plugging in a 1500W heater to one of the outlets and disconnecting shore power, and it just keeps chugging. It wouldn't last long before draining the house bank, but it proves the system works.

I'd need to run the noisemaker for A/C and any serious cooking (electric stove only), but I can use the microwave for a few minutes.

The weak link is the SPDT switch. It's rated for 20A but it's only a little toggle switch. We almost melted it in February running two electric heaters. I'm looking for a more robust one that still looks OK in the panel. Now that it's warmer out we should be OK until I get the A/C with reverse cycle heat hooked up, and that's on its own 30A shorepower circuit.

 

[Bluto]

Cap'n Tom you could wire an industrial contactor (with a 24VDC operating coil) to your switch. Then run the load carrying cables through the contacts. The heavy load would be off that switch and through the contactor for reliable and safe operation. They also have a safety overload cutout to protect in the event of a short circuit or locked up motor. You could thus keep the little switch, no panel mods required.

Owners should check their electrical connections on the main cables while under maximum load. Just feel the cables and all connectors or splices for any warmth. A warm or hot connector needs attention, any cable getting very warm is too small and should be up-sized a step or two. The safety factor plus the efficiency of your boat's systems will make it worthwhile.

I don't have a boat, but worked 30 years building machinery and automation controls.

I would be very careful with the high amp DC electrical systems on some of these boats. They won't electrocute you, but they can sure burn the boat to the waterline if things go wrong.

This has been a great thread for me, just learning about your boats and their on-board systems. Fascinating.

 

[CaptTom]

Bluto, thanks, good suggestion! By "contactor" I assume you mean a relay? I'd need a 12V coil, not 24V. But it would be a lot safer.

 

[Bluto]

Yes, they are the same in principle, but a relay is a light duty device for small loads, (I'd use them for stuff 10 amps or less) and wouldn't be the best choice for heaters, A/C units or microwaves. Contactors have contacts that can make and break thousands of times without getting stuck or causing problems.

http://ab.rockwellautomation.com/Motor-Control/IEC-Contactors/IEC-Standard-Contactors#/tab2

12 VDC might be a problem, not sure about that.

 

[CaptTom]

OK, I've found dozens like this. They're used on ATV winches for the reversing DC motors. But they're not rated for AC. Might work, but I'd want to see it in writing.

Then there's this one. It's got a 12V coil and it looks like it's rated for 30A at 240VAC. So in theory it would work, although it looks a little small to me. Not sure I'd want to push 30A (or even the 20A I need) through those small spade connectors.

And the big industrial ones seem overkill, and as you said don't typically come with 12VDC coils.

 

[Bluto]

The potter brumfield one with the spades for the mains would not be a good idea, you're right there. Those spades are never tight enough and made of thin metal that could get hot and burn..
The other says 'continuous duty' but winches are not ever run continuously.
I have confidence in those expensive industrial types, but these..
Not sure. I didn't see its rated voltage in the ad.
The 12 V is keeping you fenced in to automotive parts.
For $30, if it can handle 240 VAC, as a tech I might buy one and test it in the boat, keeping an eye on it closely.
I like it's terminals, anyway.