Exhaust elbow....

[tiz]

I need to replace the 1-2 ft section of rubber exhaust just where it begins at my mixing elbow. It got overheated. Operator error. Long story.

Anyway, it was originally installed with a significant bend. When it got hot the bend collapsed. I have cut off the bad spot.

What i want is a 6"od elbow of about 30 degree bend. Then i can get a new piece of hose to connect that to the mixing elbow.

All i see are 90 or 45 degree elbows in either fiberglass or stainless or hose.

Ideas?

--Kevin

 

[Comodave]

After you get it fixed install an exhaust temperature alarm. I have Borel Manufacturing system on mine. It will give you an alarm almost instantly when you loose cooling water. Simple install and not too pricey.

 

[firehoser75]

Tiz,
Check out your exhaust elbow. It MAY be a time bomb waiting to "go off"???They do require "regular" replacement even if they are well designed and installed.

From a post I did on another exhaust related thread:
Check out sbmar.com (Seaboard Marine in California"s website) for great free info. Look under Tony's Tips or in the forums. Under the Tips, see "Doomed to fail" for some eye opening info regarding how exhausts are designed and installed poorly even from the factory!
Yes, Seaboard does make custom exhaust and sells parts, but that is not required to be active on the forum or use the free info provided.
I used National Marine Exhaust in Marysville, Wash. and was very happy with their knowledge, product, professionalism, etc. but I am sure there must be good providers on the east coast as well? My NME elbow is dry with the only wet part being well below the turbo/exhaust manifold where the cooling water is injected, so no chance of water running uphill into the turbo. I also suggest installing an exhaust hose overheat alarm (Borel and Aqualarm are 2 providers that I know of), as this is the location where any overheat will first show up and it will provider an early warning to prevent possible engine damage. Easy install and inexpensive "insurance".

 

[kchace]

I need to replace the 1-2 ft section of rubber exhaust just where it begins at my mixing elbow. It got overheated. Operator error. Long story.

Anyway, it was originally installed with a significant bend. When it got hot the bend collapsed. I have cut off the bad spot.

What i want is a 6"od elbow of about 30 degree bend. Then i can get a new piece of hose to connect that to the mixing elbow.

All i see are 90 or 45 degree elbows in either fiberglass or stainless or hose.

Ideas?

--Kevin

They make very high flex exhaust hose. It works quite well for extremely tight bends. I had to use some for a 90 deg bend within 2’ and it worked perfectly. Shields and Vetus both make it.

Ken

 

[tiltrider1]

You can always take a 45 fiberglass tube and cut a section out of the center and reglass it as a 30.

 

[koliver]

I need to replace the 1-2 ft section of rubber exhaust just where it begins at my mixing elbow. It got overheated. Operator error. Long story.

Anyway, it was originally installed with a significant bend. When it got hot the bend collapsed. I have cut off the bad spot.

What i want is a 6"od elbow of about 30 degree bend. Then i can get a new piece of hose to connect that to the mixing elbow.

All i see are 90 or 45 degree elbows in either fiberglass or stainless or hose.

Ideas?

--Kevin

Been there, done that.
Custom made fibreglass 90° was what I ended up with. Not too expensive, though mine were only 4".

 

[Larry M]

Centek may have it.

https://centekmarine.com/product/category/components/

 

[tiz]

Thanks all. The super-flex hose would be most simple. Ill definitely look at that. Thanks ken. Will also have a look at centek.

I could take a 6" diameter straight tube and make my own custom shape (2 - 15 deg cuts...).

Im aware of sbmar and im a member on the site .

I'll probably add a temp sensor/alarm on the wet exhaust when its repaired. Id like to be less absent minded. No repair for that.

--Kevin

 

[Patrick4002]

i had almost the same problem lukely i had installed 2 pt100 sensors with omron temp meters, is a industrial means off getting a good temp measurement and alarm.
i had a impeller broken , the motor temp changed noting but in less than a minute the exhaust temp got to 180gr and i got a alarm before we had problems, this should be a standard alarm on all motor boats

 

[tiz]

The borel alarm seems simple and inexpensive. Comodave - you're happy with that? I dont think i need temperature measurement, just an alarm specific to exhaust water. Will the borel work on silicone exhaust hose?

On the good side, i got the bad section of hose cut out. Today i measured the angle between mixing elbow and remaining hose to hull opening. Seems like a typical 45deg angle fiberglass tube should do it.

What i don't know is the length of hose to connect 45 elbow to mixing elbow. I will likely use silicone hose there for its high temp capability and flexibility. Should be about 20" or less. Ill order that once the 45 elbow is installed.

--kevin

 

[firehoser75]

Tiz,
The Borel alarm works well and I did install mine on the blue silicon high temp hose. As Patrick described, this type of alarm will alarm well before your engine overheats as this is the location where high temps will show their ugly head first.
Cheap insurance in my opinion.
Good luck.

 

[Patrick4002]

i put the sensor just before the hose on the metal tube from the motor

 

[firehoser75]

Patrick,
Both the Borel and Aqualarm exhaust hose alarms (looks just just a "zip tie" like band) are installed on the exhaust hose (not the metal) just after (aft) of the mixing elbow.
Your product must be different??

 

[Comodave]

I have installed the Borel system on a couple of boats and have been very pleased with them. They are simple to install and draw no power unless they are alarming. You can also have high water alarm and water in fuel alarms in the system if you want them.

 

[Greg QS]

my 2 cents.

1. If you make one of the hoses slightly longer you can easily make the 30 deg angle into a 45 deg.

2. If you are making you own elbow. The resin is a special fire rated fiberglass resin you need. You also need ss crush rings inside the fiberglass parts to prevent deformation or crushing of the fiberglass from the hose clamps.

 

[tiz]

I decided to buy the correct f/g elbow. Mainly due to the heat rating. I did not get the crush sleeves but I will. I mocked up the angle from the mix elbow to the remaining undamaged hose and its like 43 degrees. So i got a 45 elbow and will get a length of silicone hose to go from 45 elbow to mix elbow. That should be about 18" but i need to measure with the 45 elbow in place. Ill order the crush sleeves and various clamps when i get the hose.

Slowly coming back together. Alarm next and last will be some lockout/tagging for anytime i go clear that main engine strainer.

--kevin