Fuel Contamination (and Racor Filter Help)

[FlyWright]

Thanks for watching my back, Bruce! Seahorse II also sent me a PM about this. I appreciate the word of caution.

Yes, I looked into it and determined the same. They reside adjacent to each other on the table of galvanic compatibility, indicating that they are compatible or the least dissimilar. Here's a table I used:

Galvanic and Corrosion Compatibility Dissimilar Metal Corrosion - Engineers Edge

A few months back, I replaced the bronze phillips-head screws on my impeller pump with SS knurled allen-head screws. This makes changing the pump much easier. At that time, I researched this and decided to add a coat of dielectric grease to the screws as I inserted them as an extra layer of protection. I'm not sure if this would be beneficial or advisable in the case of the fuel caps.

The most corrosive environment is in salt water. The problem diminishes greatly in dry environments.

 

[Art]

Thanks for watching my back, Bruce! Seahorse II also sent me a PM about this. I appreciate the word of caution.

Yes, I looked into it and determined the same. They reside adjacent to each other on the table of galvanic compatibility, indicating that they are compatible or the least dissimilar. Here's a table I used:

Galvanic and Corrosion Compatibility Dissimilar Metal Corrosion - Engineers Edge

A few months back, I replaced the bronze phillips-head screws on my impeller pump with SS knurled allen-head screws. This makes changing the pump much easier. At that time, I researched this and decided to add a coat of dielectric grease to the screws as I inserted them as an extra layer of protection. I'm not sure if this would be beneficial or advisable in the case of the fuel caps.

The most corrosive environment is in salt water. The problem diminishes greatly in dry environments.

On screw caps to my bronze, chromed deck fills (similar to these SS fills: http://www.iboats.com/Seadog-Stainless-Steel-Deck-Fills/dm/cart_id.902056373--session_id.754091757--view_id.685916 ) I keep good condition "O" rings and at every fuel fill liberally rub white grease around each "O" ring for water infiltration protraction.

I also put in correct amount of Soltron to gallons added. Have not had a drop of water or schmeg in filters for years! Before using Soltron – problems happened http://www.soltron.com/

PS: I buy Soltron at NAPA stores... Really inexpensive way to keep gas and diesel in great condition.

 

[FlyWright]

Thanks for the tip, Art. I'll pay more attention to the caps and o-rings from now on.

Not to start a new fuel additive, but I use Biobor-JF in my diesel.

Until now, this boat has not had a water or fuel contamination issue with its 8-year new fuel system. I have dual racors per side and have never changed the filters dated 2006 until now. There has never been a reason to drain or change them. I'll feel much better after having the tanks scrubbed.

 

[markpierce]

Yup, got SS caps:

 

[Art]

Thanks for the tip, Art. I'll pay more attention to the caps and o-rings from now on.

Not to start a new fuel additive, but I use Biobor-JF in my diesel.

Until now, this boat has not had a water or fuel contamination issue with its 8-year new fuel system. I have dual racors per side and have never changed the filters dated 2006 until now. There has never been a reason to drain or change them. I'll feel much better after having the tanks scrubbed.

Hey Al - I looked into Biobar - sounds good. Must be if till now you are still running 2006 filters .

 

[A330NRT]

How did you separate the water from the fuel and what did you do with the gallons of fuel?
Thanks

 

[psneeld]

Stainlees shaft...bronze propeller....

Some people swear by additives, some people swear at them. Usually the people that have good results either use them religiously or never.

Most of the time I find the people who use them religiously would have never had a problem anyway because of the way they use their boat...usually like the one that don't use additives.

Not saying that all are bad...just seriously doubt one is majic as everyone would copy it....and they don't.

Usually there's another issue than "just having fuel aboard" that requires additives if at all...usually length of time, fuel system peculiarities or issues, tank temps, filtration, amount of fuel return from engine, etc, etc, etc.....

 

[Codger2]

Yup, got SS caps:

Mark: I'm quite surprised that the wrench slots on your fuel caps are not in alignment when tightened! Is that a quality issue?

 

[markpierce]

Mark: I'm quite surprised that the wrench slots on your fuel caps are not in alignment when tightened! Is that a quality issue?

 

[Baker]

Make sure your engines don't have fuel coolers on them. I doubt any of the small Perkins do. But if you have 3208s, they might. I just went through a water issue in one tank only and was stumped until I found it was the fuel cooler....Cummins 330B. It trashed 2 injectors and I am still battling getting the fuel totally clean. I replaced all injectors to be on the safe side. I had the fuel polished before I solved the problem and then had to have it polished again. This was a relatively costly issue but I am lucky it didn't trash the whole engine. I have a picture that I will post showing water coming out of a FUEL line!!!!

 

[Baker]

This is the fuel cooler. That is water coming out of a fuel return line.

 

[FlyWright]

No fuel coolers here, Baker. Thanks!

A330NRT, We drained the water/fuel mix into clear plastic 1-gallon water bottles. We poured off the top fuel into one gallon bottles to settle and ensure there was no water. We recovered about 6 or 8 gallons of clean usable fuel.

The contaminated fuel/water mix was taken to our local Household Hazardous Waste Recovery Site in Sacramento County. Each bottle contained about 2/3 water. They took six 1-gallon bottles no questions, no charge.

 

[Per]

That's a tough situation having to retrieve the chain rode during rough conditions with a stuck anchor. I've thought about it, maybe even a nightmare or two, but never encountered it first hand. Glad the stout nose of your Californian was up to the task. Show us her new bow bling when you get the chance.

Hey, now that I think about it, weren't you going to shorten your pulpit to meet the marina length requirements? I know you moved to another marina, but did you shorten it before the move?

yes i did shorten, i will send pics of both when i get a moment to take the pics.
i am def going to read up on anchor retreat in blowy choppy weather.

btw, how did you bleed the air from your racors?

 

[FlyWright]

Good question. When I changed the filters, I filled them with diesel fuel, then spun them on.

I have a pump at the top of each filter assembly and it helps in purging the water from the bottom bowl drain, but does not seem to fill the filters. I have looked for instructions for this style Racor, but have not found any. If anyone is familiar with this model of Racor and can help me understand the 4-position lever, pump and vent, I'd sure appreciate the lesson. I should start a separate thread for this topic.

 

[A330NRT]

Thanks, that's what I did when I had some water in one tank.

 

[RickB]

I have a pump at the top of each filter assembly and it helps in purging the water from the bottom bowl drain, but does not seem to fill the filters.

If you look on top of the filter slightly behind the pump you should see a little plug. That is a vent. Loosen it and press the primer button repeatedly and you will fill the filter and remove the air.

As far as your three way valve goes ... hard to tell from the photo but it is most likely, L -R - Both or L-R-Off out of the little boost pump.

Loosen the outlet fittings at the valve or filter inlets while running the pump and trying the different valve handle positions to verify what is what and mark them somehow.

 

[Per]

different model than mine, reason i asked is i just changed the fuel lines from tank to racor, inevitable a small amount of air enters the racor assembly. I poured fuel in the top of the racor and also opened the valved to fill the new hose with fuel before attaching to the racor, believe i avoided any air pockets as much as possible but dont know if i need to bleed still..

pic from before the new line

 

[Art]

Gasoline Engines:

Speed adjustable; no ill effects... love to idle (for trolling), do hull speed (for economy) play at mid range (for some speed cruising) or hit WOT (for simply "Gotta Gotta Git Outa Here - Real Quick") - - > on plaining hulls that is!

- Simple to understand the mechanics of

- Light of weight for displacement reduction

- Quiet during operation at most speeds (WOT can get loud and expensive)

- Virtually odor free

- Inexpensive peripheries as well as affordable heads, main block... etc

- Easy to maintain and easy/relatively-inexpensive to totally replace!




I fear I’m treading in dangerous waters and hear the tsunami a commen! I’d ask ya to be gentle, but I wasn’t too much so... sooo, bring it on!

:lol:

 

[FlyWright]

If you look on top of the filter slightly behind the pump you should see a little plug. That is a vent. Loosen it and press the primer button repeatedly and you will fill the filter and remove the air.

As far as your three way valve goes ... hard to tell from the photo but it is most likely, L -R - Both or L-R-Off out of the little boost pump.

Loosen the outlet fittings at the valve or filter inlets while running the pump and trying the different valve handle positions to verify what is what and mark them somehow.

Thanks, RickB. I'll look for a vent plug up there when I return to the boat. That could be the vent I've been missing.

Here's a pic with areas numbered for reference:

1,2,3 and 4 are the 4 positions of the selector valve. Positions 1 and 2 are marked as 1 and 2 with a sharpie marker. The fwd filter is marked 1 and the aft filter is marked 2 with a sharpie. So I have operated under the assumption that those are the selector positions for those filters. It could actually be that 2 means both filters.

Now here is where it gets confusing to me.

What is 6? It has wires coming out but they are not connected to anything. 7 appears to be a water sensor with wires not connected to anything. Is 6 a component of the water sensing indicator system? Is it a pump?

5 is a spring loaded plunger of some sort, but does not appear to do anything. Notice that there is not the same corresponding part on the aft assembly - just a plug in its place. What is the function of 5?

I'll try loosening the outlet connection at the selector valve and see if I can deduce its function. At least I should be able to identify the OFF position.

 

[markpierce]

...

1,2,3 and 4 are the 4 positions of the selector valve. Positions 1 and 2 are marked as 1 and 2 with a sharpie marker. The fwd filter is marked 1 and the aft filter is marked 2 with a sharpie. So I have operated under the assumption that those are the selector positions for those filters. It could actually be that 2 means both filters. ...

I'm confused too!

Like it simple. Point left for the left filter, point right for the right filter, point up for both filters:

 

[rochepoint]

Mark: I'm quite surprised that the wrench slots on your fuel caps are not in alignment when tightened! Is that a quality issue?

This just made me laugh.......:lol::lol::lol:

 

[Codger2]

This just made me laugh.......:lol::lol::lol:

Well, that's two of us!

 

[LaBomba]

Al, I think your #6 may be a water in fuel sensor which has either been disconnected or never connected. I have one on my truck. They usually have two wires connected to probes internally.

 

[FlyWright]

Thanks, Allan. Makes sense...looks too small to be a pump. Each set of Racors has a probe like #7 that may connect to this sending unit(?).

 

[RickB]

What is 6? It has wires coming out but they are not connected to anything. 7 appears to be a water sensor with wires not connected to anything. Is 6 a component of the water sensing indicator system? Is it a pump?

The valve is most likely a Moeller or Anderson 3-way - unless it has another connection unseen behind the valve body then it's a 4-way. The pointer opposite the handle should point at the outlet.

#7 is almost certainly a water detector connection. I could be wrong but don't believe they make a heater for that size filter.

#5 is a mystery to me without dissecting it.

Does this look familiar? It is a Ford pickup truck inline diesel fuel pump. Almost any version of that style pump will work for your purpose.

 

[markpierce]

Thanks, Allan. Makes sense...looks too small to be a pump. ...

A pump would have electrical wires for power, as in this example:

 

[RickB]

A pump would have electrical wires for power, as in this example:

Or this example:

"What is 6? It has wires coming out but they are not connected to anything."

 

[koliver]

Rick

Do you have the part no for that Ford in line fuel pump? I have had 2 failures on the pump that I use to keep my day tank (for the galley Fab-All diesel stove) up. I don't want to go back to the failure brand and am ready to try something new.

 

[markpierce]

If not a pump, maybe it's a fuel-flow sensor.

 

[RickB]

Rick

Do you have the part no for that Ford in line fuel pump? I have had 2 failures on the pump that I use to keep my day tank (for the galley Fab-All diesel stove) up. I don't want to go back to the failure brand and am ready to try something new.

I think that pump is an Airtex brand, not sure of the model number. It was described as a Ford pump but look up Airtex, they have a wide range of pumps and generally sell in the $40 to $60 range.

Hopefully FW will come back with the results of applying power to his pump to see if it still works. The pump should have some i.d. numbers stamped on the housing so maybe he can fill in the blanks. If it were mine I would return it to operation for priming purposes if nothing else, just connect the DC through a momentary contact push button switch near the pump and "push to prime."

I have had very good luck with the little Facet pumps. When I installed a Hurricane heater a few years ago I went through two of the factory pumps in short order and finally just replaced their version with a Facet and haven't had a problem since.

Do you run a level switch on the tank or just switch on the pump when you need to refill, or run an overflow type system with the pump on all the time?