How to Dock a Boat Correctly

[BrianG]

As they say: "There's many a slip twixt the cup and the lip"
I hope the ## ribs were not from a docking gone wrong.

Your humor and idiom feel misplaced. Broken ribs are not fun and you are not funny.

 

[Hippocampus]

Before leaving or entering turn on thruster(s) and run them. With any new boat I’m asked to take the helm of for tight quarters maneuvering have a check list.
Before leaving check hard over in both directions. Want to prove steering mechanism is good to go.
Check thrusters.
Run engine(s) until warm. Want to see good oil pressure, exhaust and cooling.
Quick burst in forward and reverse to check transmission.
Look around. May walk to end of pier to look around and always check chart and have mental picture of where I’m going and what may be the problems getting to open water.
Watch water on bouys, posts, boat etc. to judge current and direction as I walk around.
Devise plan. Which lines come off first, second etc.
Share plan with crew. Tell them exactly what I want shouted out. “Tell me when I’m clear of red boat to starboard “ tell me if I get within 15’ of the white boat behind us”. Usually you can’t watch everything so having a set of eyes not confined by being stuck at the helm can help.
With a new to me boat while coming in I will check how much effect the thruster(s) have and definitely check helm response at slow speed before entry. With a new boat of mine I’ll spend some downtime just approaching a bouy at different wind/current angles and different speeds. Also play with how much prop walk there is at different speeds. See how it backs and fills if situation allows.
Many of the above posts assume bows blow off in a crosswind. For some boats that’s not true. Unlike fin keel sailboats which pivot most motorboats have more keel aft so the bow follows in reverse but for some older designs that not true and they pivot as well. Fun the just go into neutral at various angles and see how your particular boat drifts. Tells you a lot about effect of your underbody and your windage.

 

[Art]

This is exactly what I suggested several times above, in post #35 & #42. Some times I wonder if I type in invisible ink..?

Peter - I read you loud n' clear!

May I suggest bold words some times and even BOLD CAPS when appropriate... if you feel that readers may not be listening very closely.

I know, I know... proper grammar ethics of the 20th Century taught us to not expose readers to undue jolts such as bold highlights and certainly to not yell words by CAPITALISING all its letters. And God forbid that CAPS with Bold highlight were used in general text on a page.

Well... due to computers, email, cell phones, imoges [], text messages and the like we can all pretty much free ourselves from the "old school" "last century" teachings of grammar ethics. This is our new wild n' wooly 21st Century filled with nearly wide open grammar and punctuation possibilities.

So... be bold. YELL loudly when necessary. Punctuate as appropriate... or not.

Cause... Da human mind has capbility ta reed nearly any closs speld woords tat are punctuiated nerly any way... and still get da jist o' da subgect!!

Happy 21st Century Grammar Ethics!! - Art

 

[OldDan1943]

If prop walk is the wrong way and the wind direction just off....it may not be possible to get the bow around enough and you will just willow leaf back down the fairway. Thats why I almost always just keep backing out.

Prop walk is just that, prop walk. Learn to live with it and work with it. Prop walk is alway stronger than your thruster(s)
If you cant bring the bow through the wind, bring the stern through the wind.
Boat designers/ builders put the minimum HP thrusters on board. There are a few options available... greater hp and changing over to twin props in the bow thruster. Hmmm, the power to the thruster is limited to either battery or if you are fortunate, hyd. Now, hyd? Where do you get it from, main engine or a separate electric hyd pump.
I had my bow thruster reworked on my N46 after almost ending up on the rocks, thanks to the wind.
I had 3X8D on board. When it was finished, the yard put in a 'gadget' that combined 2 of the batteries to give me 24vt to the thruster, used a larger electrical (24vt) motor and twin props. Never again did I have trouble in tight quarters.

 

[psneeld]

Assuming you have a thruster.....

If not...like the OP's situation..... and if the turn out of the slip is to port and your prop walk is to port and the wind is to port and the fairway narrow, and up against a seawall or dock to starboard....good luck backing and filling against more than 10 knot winds.

Learn to live with it? Great if you can use it...but a lot of the time it isn't enough to really help and it can kill a back and fill turn against the wind ( on some boats).

And if you think prop walk is always stronger than thrusters.....you need to use a real thruster.....or accept some boats prop walk is not great against a decent wind or current. Plenty of times I have to back down fairways as turning the bow through the wind just won't happen in my boat and others I have driven (quite a few with my past jobs). So yes sometimes turning in reverse works...even then....some weather days leaving a bad slip can challenge anyone.

Probably why they invented thrusters.

 

[rslifkin]

When using prop walk to your advantage, remember that it's almost always stronger when you put the engine in gear opposite your direction of movement. So if you're moving forward and go for reverse, you'll feel the prop walk more than when backing continuously.

I've also found that when powering the bow through the wind is a challenge or there's limited room to swing the stern downwind, it's sometimes more effective to get moving backwards, then apply a handful of forward throttle with full rudder to snap the bow around.

Of course, every boat responds differently to some of those methods.

 

[psneeld]

Good tips on maximizing prop walk.


Yet some conditions will eventually exceed nearly every single engine boats turning capability if it has no thruster and there is limited turning room. Then skipper's experience and ability also factor in (often the greater limiter).



I have seen some of the best boathandlers try maneuvers that I knew exceeded my comfort level...only to occasionally do major damage when this didn't go their way.

 

[rslifkin]

Good tips on maximizing prop walk.


Yet some conditions will eventually exceed nearly every single engine boats turning capability if it has no thruster and there is limited turning room. Then skipper's experience and ability also factor in (often the greater limiter).



I have seen some of the best boathandlers try maneuvers that I knew exceeded my comfort level...only to occasionally do major damage when this didn't go their way.

Yes, there's always a limit to what you can make the boat do safely and reliably. The key is to learn what those limits are so you can avoid situations that might approach the limits.

 

[ScottC]

I've also found that when powering the bow through the wind is a challenge or there's limited room to swing the stern downwind, it's sometimes more effective to get moving backwards, then apply a handful of forward throttle with full rudder to snap the bow around.
Of course, every boat responds differently to some of those methods.

It took me a good number of years of practice along with a course to fully appreciate the fact that the stern is what moves when one steers and that it can be used to GREAT maneuvering advantage with short bursts of power, as rslifkin suggests. The short bursts are enough to move the stern significantly, while generating little or no headway. Amazingly, I am able to say this, even though I have an unbelievably small rudder.

 

[psneeld]

True the stern gets kicked with power, but unfortunately, bow windage and prop walk in the opposite direction, makes much of that kick overcome...thus my posting that the boat willow leafs instead of completing a turn, and wind/current ultimately blows the boat back down the fairway. Physic explains the fact that more kick equals more forward motion.

Seen it happen and had it happened to me too many times to count.

So thats why I said if these things are against you, and a thruster is not in the cards, something unusual like dingy with motor or even slip change is inevitable......unless the biat CAN make the turn with a skipper that gets enough ability.

 

[Hippocampus]

In such conditions we’ve resorted to launching the dinghy and using that to help. Last boat was shown in several boat shows when new to defray purchase. With two experienced masters and myself we could not get her in her assigned spot. Even resorted to doubling dock lines and throwing them to folks on the docks to no avail. Left Newport and went back into East passage.launched dinghy with two aboard and one at helm. Needed no outside assistance to get her where she needed to be. Your thruster is 8-12hp and if electric only useable in bursts. You dinghy is 9.9-25hp and can be used continuously but also positioned wherever you want. Huge advantage to the dinghy. Also can use dinghy to convey lines to cleats and use pull around a cleat to move a boat. Dinghy can pull and push. Since that experience if I can have 3 aboard(even if it means ferrying one back to shore) will use the dinghy when in extremis.

 

[psneeld]

Again my suggestion to anyone having trouble with their slip assignment is...

Spend the money for thrusters.

Spend the money on good instruction.

Get good dock8ng or get another slip.

I have seen too many people give up boating or become slip condos because leaving the slip is traumatic or too much effort.

 

[OldDan1943]

Again my suggestion to anyone having trouble with their slip assignment is...

Spend the money for thrusters.

Spend the money on good instruction.

Get good dock8ng or get another slip.

I have seen too many people give up boating or become slip condos because leaving the slip is traumatic or too much effort.

I agree with everything you say.
I would start with a good qualified instructor for a day.
Practice, practice, practice
If still have trouble, or doubt, go with a bow thruster of at least 9hp, still trouble, stern thruster. Be aware of the battery limits.
STILL trouble or doubt, a different slip or sell the boat. SMILE
The object is to leave and enter your slip single handed or at least, no on-shore assistance.

 

[MurrayM]

Docking became easier once I realized our boat steers like a car moving slowly on smooth, wet ice.

 

[SteveK]

Not mentioned. Drop the anchor a few hundred feet before docking and lay the chain on the bottom to kedge out next time. Probably a silly thought.

 

[psneeld]

Not bad unless 2 boats try it....

 

[AZ2Loop]

BrianG, I predict once those ribs get better that you will find what several guys are recommending here (using a spring line to get your stern well away from the wall, releasing the spring line, then backing out the fairway) will work beautifully for you. Seevee's drawing in post 67 shows it. You may want to walk the boat back a little before springing off, though. Imagine springing off the seawall in Seevee's picture, but about 1/2 a boat length further aft (than pictured) before doing so. That takes any concern about your starboard stern quarter out of the equation as you spring off. Then spring way off -- really get the stern out there before backing away.

You have voiced some concern with backing out the fairway. I sense that is your main reason for hesitating to adopt this method of leaving your slip. Try it a couple of times and do not hesitate to go to neutral while backing out, then forward with hard over rudder for just a second or two to redirect your stern as needed. Then go back to reverse and continue backing. That will likely given you outstanding control over your stern's direction, without stopping your reverse momentum. You will likely find the directional correction will occur VERY quickly with the shift into forward, yet you will still be making way aft.
I bet you will find you love this method and as some others have said, it will look quite impressive, too. As psneeld (I think it was) said above, at times you may not even need the spring line, but just light forward power into your fender with full port rudder will be enough to pull the stern off the dock to starboard.

As others said above, your boat, your scenario, your conditions, and your practice will determine what ultimately works. Having said that, I think you will quickly get comfortable with this method. Good luck!

 

[OldDan1943]

Look again at msg 67. Note the ROUND fender at the bow section. It will roll as necessary. Might as well buy two. I think my two are about 2+ ft in diameter.
Neutral is a gear, use it, let the boat coast so you can better gauge what the boat is doing.
Only fast enough to maintain steerage. Of course if you are about to collied, a bust of energy in the opposite direction to avoid it. Remember boats dont have brakes, they do have thrust available in the opposite direction. Keep an eye on both ends of the boat and also, port and starboard.

Basically, we can sit here telling you what to do all day and night but, the proof is in the pudding.
Get an instructor onboard, discuss your intended maneuver, listen to his recommendations. Give it a go. The instructor will be at your left shoulder if you get into trouble.
Not always do you have the luxury of dock help and or a spring line. Practice the tar out of "back and fill."
Not always will the weather be calm..... maybe it will take a bit more energy to over come the wind forces.
Good luck and remember, practice, practice, practice in all kinds of weather.

 

[BrianG]

When using prop walk to your advantage, remember that it's almost always stronger when you put the engine in gear opposite your direction of movement. So if you're moving forward and go for reverse, you'll feel the prop walk more than when backing continuously.
.

Didn't know that. Thanks.

 

[BrianG]

Run engine(s) until warm. Want to see good oil pressure, exhaust and cooling.

Surprising how many people don't do this.

 

[psneeld]

Surprising how many people don't do this.

Thats because larger diesel engines will take forever to warm up. Some will never se the needle move till you load it up even a hair.

Auxiliaries in sailboats may actually start to warm by the time you get lines and cables aboard.

Start, untie, go....no more than minimum power till the temp needle starts to move is pretty standard. Manuals will give better temps and power application.

Then again, look at how many diesel trucks start, and need a lot of power immediately to pull out into traffic and still last forever....so....good oil and half a brain are your allies.

 

[BrianG]

In such conditions we’ve resorted to launching the dinghy and using that to help. Last boat was shown in several boat shows when new to defray purchase. With two experienced masters and myself we could not get her in her assigned spot. Even resorted to doubling dock lines and throwing them to folks on the docks to no avail. Left Newport and went back into East passage.launched dinghy with two aboard and one at helm. Needed no outside assistance to get her where she needed to be. Your thruster is 8-12hp and if electric only useable in bursts. You dinghy is 9.9-25hp and can be used continuously but also positioned wherever you want. Huge advantage to the dinghy. Also can use dinghy to convey lines to cleats and use pull around a cleat to move a boat. Dinghy can pull and push. Since that experience if I can have 3 aboard(even if it means ferrying one back to shore) will use the dinghy when in extremis.

Yes, I've seen people do the dink as tugboat thing with great results. Seems to be the ultimate cheat. Not only the gasoline powered thrusting, but the two articulating grabber arms with opposable thumbs controlled by a CPU engineered to respond to voice command and lastly, the ability of the Dink to serve as a fender of last resort.

 

[rslifkin]

I don't wait for full warmup even with my gassers, but with any engine I go for a good 3 minutes or so of runtime before leaving the dock. Usually run at high idle for a couple minutes, while unplugging power, removing extra dock lines, etc. Then idle back, confirm stable idle, remove remaining lines and go.

 

[BrianG]

I don't wait for full warmup even with my gassers, but with any engine I go for a good 3 minutes or so of runtime before leaving the dock. Usually run at high idle for a couple minutes, while unplugging power, removing extra dock lines, etc. Then idle back, confirm stable idle, remove remaining lines and go.

I have a 28hp diesel, I let it warm to operating temp at high idle. Takes about 15 minutes. Plenty of prep to do on the boat before shoving off that easily consumes that 15 minutes.

 

[OldDan1943]

Perhaps warm up the engine(s) enough to get new fuel into the Racor filters.
That will ensure fuel is flowing from the tank to the filters.

 

[rslifkin]

I have a 28hp diesel, I let it warm to operating temp at high idle. Takes about 15 minutes. Plenty of prep to do on the boat before shoving off that easily consumes that 15 minutes.

My engines warm up faster than that, but I've never seen a reason to waste the fuel, noise, engine wear, etc for a warmup that long. Generally once the temp is starting to come up and it idles fine, it's fine to take some load and it'll be warm pretty quickly once I'm moving.

For my engines, they're usually showing around 120-140 by the time I leave the dock. They'll warm up to about 165 at the dock if they run long enough.

 

[OldDan1943]

There is nothing wrong with take a strain on the dock lines to speed the warm up a bit, watching oil pressure, temp etc.

 

[markpierce]

I have a 28hp diesel, I let it warm to operating temp at high idle. Takes about 15 minutes. Plenty of prep to do on the boat before shoving off that easily consumes that 15 minutes.

John Deere says not to idle my 80-HP engine for more than five minutes. It takes about 15 minutes under load at 25% power to warm engine. After engine start-up, I launch immediately after checking exhaust water, thruster operation, and disconnecting lines.

 

[psneeld]

Man...too much urban legend vs practical reality.

The engines need to warm up before cruise or full throttle...not before idling out..

If you start and immediately idle out of the slip and under load they start to warm up before exiting the no wake areas...thats all you need.

 

[BrianG]

My engines warm up faster than that, but I've never seen a reason to waste the fuel, noise, engine wear, etc for a warmup that long. Generally once the temp is starting to come up and it idles fine, it's fine to take some load and it'll be warm pretty quickly once I'm moving.

For my engines, they're usually showing around 120-140 by the time I leave the dock. They'll warm up to about 165 at the dock if they run long enough.

I worked for an agency that had a fleet of several hundred diesel trucks. The factory engineers always said engines last longer and run better and more reliably if you wait until they're warm before placing a load on them. Our fleet was mainly Cummins and Detroits. 8-71s and a comaparable Cummins, cannot remember which model. So I've always gone with that.

To follow up, About a year ago I was backing a 40' ketch out a slip, my friend convinced me to back out cold. Broke my rule. Sure enough, it stalled as I was headed backwards, I was about 8' from a pristine sportfisher. The ketch had a steel davits, 8', 7', coasting to collision. Those davits would give the sportfisher and ugly makeover. One shot at a restart. Luckily it fired up and I was able to get into forward and steer away.

So that's my thinking. ymmv.