How to Dock a Boat Correctly

[psneeld]

Well...despite what some "guy" told you...there are manufacturer guidelines that discuss temp and power applied...in writing.

Now for the rule of thumb which I believe fits most engines I have dealt with.......sure, full power probably is reserved for normal operating temps...but idling away from the dock to outside the marina can start long before the temp is up over 165 or so degrees. The colder temps of older diesels.

From Power and Motoryacht mag.....

"As noted above, a diesel will not warm to operating temperature until it is under load. Thus you need only let the engine idle long enough to fully circulate the oil—30 seconds is plenty. But don’t immediately put the pedal to the metal. A few minutes of idle speed will warm the oil so it flows better. "

 

[Art]

I've never seen so many different thoughts/ways to do two very important items... that is... correctly handle a boat at slow speed in tight quarters for entering or exiting docks.

This is not the rocket science level of how to pilot/guide a jet plane during take off or landing... especially in high winds.

Go slow. AND... Practice, Practice, Practice! Start out practicing in dead calm weather at slack tide. You'll get the hang of it!!

 

[OldDan1943]

My 'route' is, start the engine, check oil pressure, check water out the exhaust.
Bring in the electrical cables, coil and stow, poke head in pilot house to check oil pressure and temp. Bring in or hang lines and back out.
This gives enough time to cycle the fuel in the filters, begin to warm the oil etc.
Shift rudder lock to lock a couple of times.
Test thrusters, if installed.
Test transmission fwd and reverse.
It is alway important to check for exhaust water flow for it takes less than 30sec to destroy an impeller.
I dont relish being caught in the fairway with an over heated engine or no fuel.
Plus, relish belongs on hot dogs or egg salad.

 

[OldDan1943]

I've never seen so many different thoughts/ways to do two very important items... that is... correctly handle a boat at slow speed in tight quarters for entering or exiting docks.

This is not the rocket science level of how to pilot/guide a jet plane during take off or landing... especially in high winds.

Go slow. AND... Practice, Practice, Practice! Start out practicing in dead calm weather at slack tide. You'll get the hang of it!!

If we sort through all the answers, we will discover a lot of repeated or refined answers.

 

[MurrayM]

Start engine
Listen for 'splashing' astern
Turn wheel lock to lock, noting # of times and 'resistance'
Untie all but two lines
Watch for current(s)
Bump into forward, then reverse
Wife unties stern & sees if fairway is clear
I untie midship (or bow) line & step aboard
Back out of slip
Idle out of marina, increasing speed slowly

In a nutshell...

 

[OldDan1943]

perhaps if we all added in Sécurité Sécurité, relating the information of our departure and include the necessary horn signal if we are exiting stern first? (3 short blasts on the horn)
Of course the horn signal may excite the 'community' LOL
When I exit the marina and enter the ICW, I have one man that offered to go forward to check..... I sounded the long continuous horn signal (3 trumpet air horn) and he felt it was unnecessary to go fwd to check. SMILE
It has been years since I have heard the horn signal for getting underway (1 long horn signal and 3 short blasts if backing down)

 

[markpierce]

I recall that cruise ships give only one prolonged signal when backing out from a dock. Where else would they go?

 

[Peter B]

I've never seen so many different thoughts/ways to do two very important items... that is... correctly handle a boat at slow speed in tight quarters for entering or exiting docks.

This is not the rocket science level of how to pilot/guide a jet plane during take off or landing... especially in high winds.

Go slow. AND... Practice, Practice, Practice! Start out practicing in dead calm weather at slack tide. You'll get the hang of it!!

Art, there is just one small flaw in this Practice, Practice, Practice! thing, and that is that we are talking about a situation where to practice in situ, as it were, ie the real life situation, he risks it going badly, with potential for damage, while he finds out what works, and what doesn't. Yet, as you say, he has to start somewhere. He likes the slip otherwise, so moving does not attract at present, wise a move though it may be.

Although on that point, I vivdly remember how much better it was when the berth I was first given, which was not a blow on berth, but was on the side of the finger that meant docking port to berth, but left my pilot door and helm away from the berth, and the prop-walk in reverse was to strbd away from the berth, was sold from under me. So, I bought one on the other side that even though still not a blow-on berth, allowed me to dock strbd side to berth, where I and my pilot door were then adjacent to the berth, prop-walk in reverse was now towards the berth, and it made docking and line-handling sooo much easier. So maybe Brian needs to reconsider that if all else fails. (see what I did there re bolding as you suggested)

So, rather than say Practice, Practice, Practice! My advice is using tha advice he has been given, start doing the Visualise, Visualise, Visualise technique.

In other words run through the plan over and over in his mind, until it's down pat - then go out in calm weather and try it out. And, he'll have the engine running long enough while doing one last visualise, it will not stall - guaranteed..!

 

[BrianG]

He likes the slip otherwise, so moving does not attract at present, wise a move though it may be.

I do like the slip an even if I didn't it'd be hard to move because I also own the slip.

 

[ranger58sb]

"As noted above, a diesel will not warm to operating temperature until it is under load. Thus you need only let the engine idle long enough to fully circulate the oil—30 seconds is plenty. But don’t immediately put the pedal to the metal. A few minutes of idle speed will warm the oil so it flows better. "

That was our experience; couldn't really get to operating temps by idling in the slip.

But it was about a mile of slow speed zone from our slip to open water anyway, so idling out of our harbor -- and then some more until temps were high enough -- always worked well.

Just had to be sure engines were running solidly, water pumps working, no chance of stall, etc.

-Chris

 

[Seevee]

Art, there is just one small flaw in this Practice, Practice, Practice! thing, and that is that we are talking about a situation where to practice in situ, as it were, ie the real life situation, he risks it going badly, with potential for damage, while he finds out what works, and what doesn't. Yet, as you say, he has to start somewhere. He likes the slip otherwise, so moving does not attract at present, wise a move though it may be.

Although on that point, I vivdly remember how much better it was when the berth I was first given, which was not a blow on berth, but was on the side of the finger that meant docking port to berth, but left my pilot door and helm away from the berth, and the prop-walk in reverse was to strbd away from the berth, was sold from under me. So, I bought one on the other side that even though still not a blow-on berth, allowed me to dock strbd side to berth, where I and my pilot door were then adjacent to the berth, prop-walk in reverse was now towards the berth, and it made docking and line-handling sooo much easier. So maybe Brian needs to reconsider that if all else fails. (see what I did there re bolding as you suggested)

So, rather than say Practice, Practice, Practice! My advice is using tha advice he has been given, start doing the Visualise, Visualise, Visualise technique.

In other words run through the plan over and over in his mind, until it's down pat - then go out in calm weather and try it out. And, he'll have the engine running long enough while doing one last visualise, it will not stall - guaranteed..!

Pete,


EXCELLENT post.... we really need to know what we're doing before the practice. So, training first, practice to perfect (not to learn the basics).

 

[Seevee]

I've never seen so many different thoughts/ways to do two very important items... that is... correctly handle a boat at slow speed in tight quarters for entering or exiting docks.

This is not the rocket science level of how to pilot/guide a jet plane during take off or landing... especially in high winds.

Go slow. AND... Practice, Practice, Practice! Start out practicing in dead calm weather at slack tide. You'll get the hang of it!!

Art,


I might disagree with you. Landing a jet in high winds, even a cross wind, is easier than docking a boat in similar conditions. And, the bigger the jet, the easier. You only have wind with the jet, the boats have wind, current, different docks, and often idiots operating them.....

 

[Captain James]

Prop wash can be used on a single screw vessel to turn it. Going slowly or stopped in neutral put helm hard starboard put in forward hard throttle blast for one second. Boat will spin to starboard. And versa visa.

 

[firehoser75]

Man...too much urban legend vs practical reality.

The engines need to warm up before cruise or full throttle...not before idling out..

If you start and immediately idle out of the slip and under load they start to warm up before exiting the no wake areas...thats all you need.

Each person will do the routine that they like (or were shown, etc.), no matter what evidence we present.
However, I agree completely, 100% with Psneeld on this one! The best way to warm up a diesel is to do so under a small load. Disconnect shore power and any lines not needed to hold boat. Start up and conduct whatever checks you feel are necessary (eg. check water flow, oil pressure, steering, transmission, and thruster function, etc.), then cast off the remaining line(s) and slowly motor out at idle or just over. Do not operate above 1000 rpm until engine temps reach about 150 degrees F (or higher). This is the info promoted and provided by Tony Athens, a marine diesel expert with over 35 years experience working with marine diesels (especially Cummins).
Another aspect to this, is courtesy to your neighbours, especially if your engine smokes at start up. I have seen some that can obscure the horizon . It is very inconsiderate to sit at the dock and idle a smoker (for up to 15 minutes), all the while filling every nearby boat with smoke, noxious gases, and diesel fumes. Another secondary reason, but still an important one, especially since a long idle is not needed and is actually not recommended.
Just saying

 

[psneeld]

I bet most people don't warm up their personal car/truck except when frigid or they have to floor it to get out into traffic close to home.

If they do let their car warm up, probably for them, not the engine.

 

[Peter B]

I do like the slip an even if I didn't it'd be hard to move because I also own the slip.

Ok, well, that makes your determination to persist with this awkwardly-placed slip much easier to understand. Mighta helped to mention that a ways back..?

Never mind, at least there is now no question you need to take on board most of what advice has been given - most importantly the visualise, visualise, visualise approach, before you actually try a new tactic. Best of luck with it anyway.

 

[markpierce]

I find starboard prop walk handy with a starboard-side helm.

 

[SteveK]

I bet most people don't warm up their personal car/truck except when frigid or they have to floor it to get out into traffic close to home.

If they do let their car warm up, probably for them, not the engine.

These modern cars do not need to be warmed up for the engine. Start and go.
For the human they provide heated seats, heated steering.

 

[oscar]

Brian's list is a good start. I would add:

1) Go slow

Agreed, though you need enough way to properly engage the rudder(s). One of my favorite boating adages is "always approach the dock at the speed you wish to hit it"!

My rudders don't become meaningfully effective until above 4-5 knots.....I center them and don't touch them while docking.

Every boat is different.

 

[BrianG]

Each person will do the routine that they like (or were shown, etc.), no matter what evidence we present.
However, I agree completely, 100% with Psneeld on this one! The best way to warm up a diesel is to do so under a small load. Disconnect shore power and any lines not needed to hold boat. Start up and conduct whatever checks you feel are necessary (eg. check water flow, oil pressure, steering, transmission, and thruster function, etc.), then cast off the remaining line(s) and slowly motor out at idle or just over. Do not operate above 1000 rpm until engine temps reach about 150 degrees F (or higher). This is the info promoted and provided by Tony Athens, a marine diesel expert with over 35 years experience working with marine diesels (especially Cummins).
Another aspect to this, is courtesy to your neighbours, especially if your engine smokes at start up. I have seen some that can obscure the horizon . It is very inconsiderate to sit at the dock and idle a smoker (for up to 15 minutes), all the while filling every nearby boat with smoke, noxious gases, and diesel fumes. Another secondary reason, but still an important one, especially since a long idle is not needed and is actually not recommended.
Just saying

If you're discharging smoke, noxious gases and diesel fumes, you might want to give your boy Tomy Athens a shout.

 

[Art]

OK - So don't practice! Visualize for a long, long time as your boat becomes a dock queen!

I'll stick with the "go to it and do it" sequence when I need to learn to handle equipment.

IMO... take it easy, take it slow... but learn by doing, not just visualizing. Not that some amount of visualizing isn't good, because it is. But doing is what gets the job of learning actually accomplished.

 

[Hippocampus]

Agree engines don’t warm up unless under some load. But still want to know oil and coolant pumps are working.
Be careful about giving prop walk advice. There are left handed props out there. Also some boats have end plate effect on top and bottom with horizontal shafts so minimal walk. Some have jets or Z drive and none. Given each boat has its own quirks you need experience with that boat. Everything else is second best.

 

[backinblue]

6) Don't singlehand. This rule is even more crucial once you're underway
7) If you get all messed up don't panic, go to NEUTRAL. Reassess. people will normally help and you can always use your hands to push off of other docked boats[/QUOTE]

Not a good idea to get hands or other body parts between your boat and the dock or other boats. Also, single handing is sometimes a necessity and most issues can be mitigated by preparation prior to leaving the dock.

 

[mvweebles]

Here's a boat handling/docking question for the hive. I can get into my slip blindfolded. At slip #6 I go hard over to starboard and I go in perfectly. Getting out of my slip is tricky. First of all, based on #6, consider how poor my turning radius is. Then consider wind direction. So, how would you get out of this slip? I will explain how the previous owner suggested after hearing a few... suggestions

I'm late to the party on this, but as a guy who used to teach close quarter maneuvering, I'll give you my best thinking - much of it reinforces other's input. As an aside, many marinas charge extra for upwind slips as it avoids the challenges BrianG faces.

There is one guiding principle for close-quarter maneuvers: it's easier to work into the wind (or current) than down-wind/current. Whenever possible, work into the elements - they will give you time and control, and greatly reduce need for speed.

Unless you back into your slip allowing you to exit bow-first, backing out of the fairway is the only option where you continuously work into the wind. You may need to 'crab' her a bit to keep her stern upwind, but it's the only way you can keep from working down-wind which is why several experienced responses have recommended backing-out. Trying to turn your boat so you can exit the fairway bow-out means you will be making a down-wind turn which greatly reduces margin of error. Bow-out is obviously more intuitive, so you will need to learn some skills.

If you accept that backing-out is a good option, the question becomes two-part: will your boat answer the helm in reverse; and can you become comfortable doing it?

Your boat looks like a variant of a Monterey fishing boat. It probably has a large, skeg-hung rudder, likely with a deep-ish keel for directional stability, and you have excellent visibility and access in reverse. If at all possible, I would practice backing-out on a very calm day with a good crew and a few big fenders. As others have suggested, a few hours with an experienced captain would be time/money well spent. Given your boat, would suggest asking at a local sailing club as their captains are used to teaching, and used to single-engine boats.

If backing-out is not an option, given the small size of your boat, you may want to try hand-lining her along the parallel dock. Back her up along the parallel dock as far as possible, and take a long line from the starboard bow (yes, away from the dock) to a cleat on the dock near the port-quarter/stern. Push the bow out and the stern down along the dock and she will end up close to backed-into your old slip without ever being untethered. Of course, assumes enough wind to keep her pressed against the parallel dock. A second set of hands would help immensely, but could be done singlehanded given the size of boat.

Good luck!

Peter

 

[BrianG]

Your boat looks like a variant of a Monterey fishing boat. It probably has a large, skeg-hung rudder, likely with a deep-ish keel for directional stability, and you have excellent visibility and access in reverse. If at all possible, I would practice backing-out on a very calm day with a good crew and a few big fenders. As others have suggested, a few hours with an experienced captain would be time/money well spent. Given your boat, would suggest asking at a local sailing club as their captains are used to teaching, and used to single-engine boats.

If backing-out is not an option, given the small size of your boat, you may want to try hand-lining her along the parallel dock. Back her up along the parallel dock as far as possible, and take a long line from the starboard bow (yes, away from the dock) to a cleat on the dock near the port-quarter/stern. Push the bow out and the stern down along the dock and she will end up close to backed-into your old slip without ever being untethered. Of course, assumes enough wind to keep her pressed against the parallel dock. A second set of hands would help immensely, but could be done singlehanded given the size of boat.

Good luck!

Peter

Thanks for the advice. I'm slightly confused by the hand-line suggestion. Basically do a tied off 180 degree flip along the dock? Would the line from starboard bow attach to the cleat as indicated in the picture? I drew the suggested dock line in RED and also showed the new suggested position of the boat. Or did you mean take a new dock-line to where boat #2 is slipped?
The boat is as you say, a Monterey double ender with a big rudder and deep keel.

 

[ranger58sb]

Building on that...

If the object is to leave the fairway in forward... I could also see experimenting with walking the boat backwards toward where boat #1 is... then using a (doubled) spring attached to the starboard quarter to pivot the boat way from the dock, get her headed toward the fairway.

Maybe.

Or maybe that's the same effect as from using that line on the starboard bow...

Would need good fendering on the port quarter... and/or a crew-person...

-Chris

 

[backinblue]

Building on that...

If the object is to leave the fairway in forward... I could also see experimenting with walking the boat backwards toward where boat #1 is... then using a (doubled) spring attached to the starboard quarter to pivot the boat way from the dock, get her headed toward the fairway.

Maybe.

Or maybe that's the same effect as from using that line on the starboard bow...

Would need good fendering on the port quarter... and/or a crew-person...

-Chris

OR....get some thrusters! lol

 

[ranger58sb]

OR....get some thrusters! lol

Well, sure, but the OP has said that's not in the cards...

-Chris

 

[mvweebles]

Thanks for the advice. I'm slightly confused by the hand-line suggestion. Basically do a tied off 180 degree flip along the dock? Would the line from starboard bow attach to the cleat as indicated in the picture? I drew the suggested dock line in RED and also showed the new suggested position of the boat. Or did you mean take a new dock-line to where boat #2 is slipped?
The boat is as you say, a Monterey double ender with a big rudder and deep keel.

Here are some ideas to play with - all options are designed to hold your boat to windward and stage you to exit without undue need for speed.

1. Handline Turn. Same as I described in original response. Walk the boat back, set a long line from stbd bow cleat and a control line from stbd stern (double ender may take some experimenting). Manually push the bow out and use the stern line to pull the stern through, then retrieve the boat to the dock. This is similar to what the Previous Owner did ("push like hell, then hop-on and go for it"), except its controlled by keeping the boat attached to the dock until you're ready to go.

2. Springline Turn. Again, walk the boat back and set a springline from stbd midship cleat to dock, doubled back so both ends are controlled from the boat. Helm hard-over to stbd and power away from dock, belaying the springline to control the turn. This should keep you well to windward. You will have to tinker/practice with which cleat to use.

Note, I have done a lot of springline work due to my past work with demo's at Trawler Fest and teaching, but have never done these exact maneuvers, and your double-ender may make it challenging to get lines around. I will also admit that sometimes what seems like it will work on paper (such as these sketches) just doesn't work worth a damn in reality. But your boat is small (most Monterey's were in the 30-foot range) and relatively light, so you have some brute-force options.

I'd spend an afternoon with a decent crew playing with all these scenarios, including backing-out of the fairway. There is no magic bullet here - this will take some muscle memory and finesse to get comfortable with your boat. But practice in flat conditions to get a feel of your boat and build muscle memory. From there, you can start tinkering with wind - getting a feel of when your bow or stern passes through the eye of the wind is critical.

NOTE - using springlines like these means there can be a lot of line in the water. The risk of fouling your prop is very real. Floating line is a decent idea, but best is to practice with your crew. Again, given your excellent visibility aft, you should be in decent shape. But caution is needed.

As mentioned above, this is all theoretical, though I'm pretty sure it will be a good start for you. You will need to figure out what works best for your boat and conditions.

Good luck -

Peter

 

[SteveK]

Peter you certainly win the graphics award.
I can imagine your proposal working with no wind or current present.

so far backing out fairway or driving out after having arrived starboard tie,
The OP drawing scale makes it look like the fairway is 2 boat lengths wide leaving plenty of room to crab in or out against the wind.