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balder8 said:
Teak deck on steel hull and deck, great mistake..
Click to expand...
YES ! And unfortunately it is the "rule" for Nederland boatyard...
We had :
one 12m De Alm we remove the teak
one Doggerbank 18m Vripack ...don't keept her long enought but the teak must be removed.
the actual : we removed the teak :)
The only advantage for the teak is :
in winter better insulation (but not in summer because the teak warm up more than the white plating)
and less noisy when raining
 
I would almost 100% agree with you @balder8, except I would say “Teak decks, great mistake…”

No more for me, that’s for sure, but perhaps my experience was worse than most because they were teak planks over steel frames. No sub-deck.
 
Mako said:
I would almost 100% agree with you @balder8, except I would say “Teak decks, great mistake…”

No more for me, that’s for sure, but perhaps my experience was worse than most because they were teak planks over steel frames. No sub-deck.
Click to expand...
Our second boat was even worste be aussi they put teck deck on wood beam on...steel deck and steel beam !!!
It is the worste water stay between this big gab until the rust make à hole on the steel deck..when we bough her they already remove the teck, remove the steel and fit CP with fiberglass...This boat built Germany with 'only' 20 year old was in very bad shape must replace 29+sqm of the hull, including structure...
 
It was yhis one 47 years ago
nos-bateau-005.jpg

DDW said:
Except it isn't a steel boat, it's aluminum.
Click to expand...
I know that, I already contacted the owner to know if he could be interested by an 'exchange" with our bigger one...
But the problem on alloy boat is similar than on steel .It is why our first job on our actual was : remove the teck from every where !!
We miss the sale because the teck was removed, the customer bough à prestigious brand from Holland...and now he understood why we remove the teck, he already paid for rekaulking all the teck and ...still have problem

Teck deck only on fiberglass or ...wooden boat :)
 
Mako said:
I would almost 100% agree with you @balder8, except I would say “Teak decks, great mistake…”

No more for me, that’s for sure, but perhaps my experience was worse than most because they were teak planks over steel frames. No sub-deck.
Click to expand...
Apologize for my broken english...
 
There is a lot of concern about how the teak is applied to the steel deck.
My father-in-law built a ship himself 47 years ago and equipped it with a teak deck.
First, the steel was well preserved, then polyester with a glass mat was applied and approximately 10 cm extended against the cabin.
On top of that the teak wood is applied with sealant (Saba)
47 years later, the teak is still in new condition, no leaks or rust anywhere.
It is a very laborious method but will last at least 50 years without any problems, even the sealant joints are not yet in need of replacement.
The teak deck is 2 cm thick!
The ship is always on saltwater.

Mvg,

Pascal.
 
Pascall said:
There is a lot of concern about how the teak is applied to the steel deck.
My father-in-law built a ship himself 47 years ago and equipped it with a teak deck.
First, the steel was well preserved, then polyester with a glass mat was applied and approximately 10 cm extended against the cabin.
On top of that the teak wood is applied with sealant (Saba)
47 years later, the teak is still in new condition, no leaks or rust anywhere.
It is a very laborious method but will last at least 50 years without any problems, even the sealant joints are not yet in need of replacement.
The teak deck is 2 cm thick!
The ship is always on saltwater.

Mvg,

Pascal.
Click to expand...
Finally you arrive at what I said : teak on...fiberglass :)
When you wrote "even the sealant are not ..." I am very surprised because for example on the Moonen of my friend it was already done twice, on our Doggerbank at only 19 year old idem for our De Alm ( 8 year old )
May be in cold and not sunny country ?
Because for example the motor sailor Tangier (we already discuss about this boat here) she also had very tick teak deck but after few year under the tropicals sun some sealant need to be replaced.

On our second boat (photo above) they also put fiberglass on cp and inside the bulwark....the adherence on steel was not perfect ( but ok it was 50 year ago may be now better product...)
 
The deck is kitted with Saba, is the best kit available (was)
I don't know what raw materials were used in this kit at the time, possibly they may no longer be used now.
It is certain that it is a very good kit.
I have used Sikaflex myself, which I am certainly not satisfied with, after 23 years I have re-caulked the joints of the deck.
For gluing I think the 212 from Sikaflex is very good, for the joints I now use Bostik, apparently the replacement for Saba, time will tell.
As for teak decks, if you want to be beautiful, you have to suffer pain!

Greeting,

Pascal.
 
long-cours.62 said:
Finally you arrive at what I said : teak on...fiberglass :)
When you wrote "even the sealant are not ..." I am very surprised because for example on the Moonen of my friend it was already done twice, on our Doggerbank at only 19 year old idem for our De Alm ( 8 year old )
May be in cold and not sunny country ?
Because for example the motor sailor Tangier (we already discuss about this boat here) she also had very tick teak deck but after few year under the tropicals sun some sealant need to be replaced.

On our second boat (photo above) they also put fiberglass on cp and inside the bulwark....the adherence on steel was not perfect ( but ok it was 50 year ago may be now better product...)
Click to expand...
The ship is always in northern Europe, the sun is the death knell for everything!!

Greeting,

Pascal.
 
69' 110T converted shrimper... looks pretty nice. On the hard in the GoM, steel, and no ER pics, so caveat emptor. But I like the concept - big, honest, seaworthy as anything. Huge tankage, simple systems, 500lb navy anchor on 1" chain. Single big Cat, no stabilizers, no thrusters!
1728087360859.png
1728087392767.png
 
A lot of potential with that big boy. Wonder about the main engine and engine room condition. Someone should reach out to the broker.

PS - if you’re looking for a very cool conversion, then how about that tuna boat hull sitting next to it. That’s a hell of a crow’s nest!
IMG_2433.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Some boat we took à look just in case we finaly found à customer for "Pacific72"
The first one could be an interesti g base after do some 'adjustment '
www.devalk.nl

STEVENS COLUMBUS KOTTER 16.40 motor yacht for sale | De Valk Yacht broker

STEVENS COLUMBUS KOTTER 16.40 for sale | Built by: Stevens Shipyards | Built: 1997 | Dimensions: 16,40x4,85x1,20m | Material: Steel | 1x DAF DH 825 diesel
www.devalk.nl www.devalk.nl
But sold in 2 week...
This second one also interresting

After you have 3 similar hull with différent qualities from self made to the more exppensive one
www.dutchboatsales.com

Vripack Trawler 1500 - Jachtmakelaardij De Maas

www.dutchboatsales.com www.dutchboatsales.com
dailyboats.com

2002 Vripack Expedition Trawler 54 for sale. View price, photos and Buy 2002 Vripack Expedition Trawler 54 #429672

Browse pictures, specifications, and technical information about 2002 Vripack Expedition Trawler 54, or search for other boats on DailyBoats.com. Offer #429672
dailyboats.com dailyboats.com

Vripack Trawler 55 Long Range - Elburg Yachting

www.elburgyachting.nl www.elburgyachting.nl
 
Also this Stentor, ok the hard top is not Nice (but it is removable) and also 2x135 hp for the weight of this boat...but good tankage and volume

Vripack Stentor 1800 Explorer - Elburg Yachting

www.elburgyachting.nl www.elburgyachting.nl

My wife like this one ,not too high, twin engine, stabilité, Nice carpentry, but small tankage compared to the Stentor

Admiral Class 1500 - Stabilizers - Elburg Yachting

www.elburgyachting.nl www.elburgyachting.nl

Of course we still like this one but now she is more than twice the price than around 10 year ago when we saw her for sale from the original owner...ok she have lot of conception problem : heat 2 at the table or 3 if you are friend with à very small person, no gap between your head and the deck on the front cabin,no réal show er ( in 19+ m boat ), no real saloon, Nice wi d'assurer but can't use the gibsy, air intime low on the hull and just over Electric box in engine room....but we like the dîmension near similar to our former Long Cours 62 but now too expensive :-(

Velder 63 - Custom Built Aluminium - Elburg Yachting

www.elburgyachting.nl www.elburgyachting.nl
Also see this one more river than sea, will need somecha ge to became to do some crossing Nice pai t BUT, don't like what we can see on the plating below wl

Van der Valk Continental 19.60 | Nauticus Yachting

www.nauticus.be www.nauticus.be

Only o e problem near all this steel boat older than our are ...more e pe site than the offers we got for our Pacific 72'
:-(
 
unfortunately the Dutch like to repaint allways the topsides so it looks really nice but to sandblast the UW and get a good epoxy layer every 10 years would make it much better. my aluminium hull with epoxy is without any corrosion since 1985....
 
cfr said:
unfortunately the Dutch like to repaint allways the topsides so it looks really nice but to sandblast the UW and get a good epoxy layer every 10 years would make it much better. my aluminium hull with epoxy is without any corrosion since 1985....
Click to expand...
Youare right , look at the photos of the topside of the Van Der Valk continental : nice !
But under WL some photo don't let any doubts for us, if you zoom in at wl, it don't look like "old tickness of antifouling" :)
grélé.JPG
 
Ten years is very fast for blasting an underwater hull.
The most common for a saltwater vessel is 20 to 25 years, ships on freshwater are around 30 to 35 years.

Greeting,

Pascal.
 
ok 20 years but i am also in the market and looking but most boats do nothing for UW after 20 years but try to sell the boat. i probably would do it right after purchase, its not that expensive compared with topside paint .....
 
That's right, for an 11 meter boat I paid 5000 euros.

Pascal.
 
We always do blasting by our-self , not a pleasant job if inside , but outside it is "nothing' to do .
First was 14 m schooner, second under water only for a 27 m aluminium hull with a curious hull form it means sand blasting a "ceiling" not comfortable at all, and a 12 m De Alm.
But the cost is lot of cheaper when you do yourself just rent good compressor and good sanblasting equipment. The most complicated now it is find a place where you will be allowed to do sandblasting...
 
For 5000 euros I'm not going to lie under it myself.
This amount also includes getting in and out of the water, applying a 2-component epoxy paint system and antifouling!
 
Of course it include in/out sand blasting , paint and anti-fouling it change the "problem";-)
But I thinking you do the paint by yourself ?
 
No, the application of the paint system and antifouling is also included in the price.

Greeting,

Pascal.
 
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