MS 400 Replacement for Nova Kool Refrigerator

[welippisch]

Has anyone replaced their Nova Kool AC/DC refrigerator / freezer? Mine took a dump this past week. The controller/condensing unit is probably the issue. Very difficult to find replacement parts. Suppliers for a new RFU6200 AC/DC unit want 6-12 weeks lead time with prepayment, no refunds and no guarantee to it will arrive in that time period.

Thoughts on a different model?

Thanks

 

[rslifkin]

Have you talked to Nova Kool directly? I've heard lots of good about their customer service. If it's the controller, it should be the standard Danfoss part used by most modern marine fridges.

 

[rochepoint]

When we had a problem last year a phone call to support at Nova Kool, they troubleshot it over the phone and parts arrived the next day. They are great guys at supporting their products.

 

[Duetto]

we had problems early on. called novacool and they worked us through diagnosis. they are VERY good.

 

[jefndeb]

I replaced my Danfoss AC/DC controller and a new door seal a month ago, bought the part on eBay...now she works like a champ!!!!!!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Danfoss-Se...554819&hash=item3fdeac7506:g:qdUAAOSwnhFeewxK

 

[Russell Clifton]

Run your part number thru Ebay and see what comes up. I replaced my controller last fall with the exact factory part at fraction of the marine store price. The number is marked on the controller.

 

[Rossland]

Has anyone replaced their Nova Kool AC/DC refrigerator / freezer? Mine took a dump this past week. The controller/condensing unit is probably the issue. Very difficult to find replacement parts. Suppliers for a new RFU6200 AC/DC unit want 6-12 weeks lead time with prepayment, no refunds and no guarantee to it will arrive in that time period.

Thoughts on a different model?

Thanks

Why stick with an underperforming overpriced AC/DC fridge. Assuming that you already have an inverter, buy a new AC only model.

A list of the most efficient fridges is here: https://www.energystar.gov/products/appliances/refrigerators

 

[Thinback]

I replaced mine 3 years ago on my main ship with the same original model. I ordered from World Wide enterprises in Falmouth. That model is made to order and did take two months to get. Unfortunately the size is not “standard”. I couldn’t find anything that would fit without major surgery.
Nova Kool customer service was very good and called me back promptly and helped determine the issues. My fridge was 11 years at the time so I replaced it.

 

[Shrew]

Measure the rough cut space. On the Mainship 350 and 390, the rough cut opening will not accommodate any other model without some re-fabrication. Most other models are taller and push into the microwave space above it. The only fridge I could find was the replacement model for my current model from Nova-Kool.

While they are pricey, they are worth it.

Regarding going with an AC only fridge. Does anyone know whether a dual voltage AC/DC fridge is actually truly AC, or is it a DC fridge with an onboard inverter?? If it's truly AC, then I would prefer a dual voltage over the amp loss in inversion by going with an AC only fridge.

 

[rslifkin]

Regarding going with an AC only fridge. Does anyone know whether a dual voltage AC/DC fridge is actually truly AC, or is it a DC fridge with an onboard inverter?? If it's truly AC, then I would prefer a dual voltage over the amp loss in inversion by going with an AC only fridge.

The Danfoss compressors run on something like a low voltage 3 phase AC if I'm remembering correctly. So the controller is doing power conversion on either AC or DC (and some of the controllers are DC input only).

 

[OldDan1943]

Has anyone replaced their Nova Kool AC/DC refrigerator / freezer? Mine took a dump this past week. The controller/condensing unit is probably the issue. Very difficult to find replacement parts. Suppliers for a new RFU6200 AC/DC unit want 6-12 weeks lead time with prepayment, no refunds and no guarantee to it will arrive in that time period.

Thoughts on a different model?

Thanks

Chances are your control module took a dump. There is a place in Hollywood where you can buy the module. I suspect there is a place in or around Stuart too.

Mine fridge took a dump, tech came on board and in 20 mins, pulled fridge, changed the module and put the fridge back in.
I used StateWide Marine Inc. (3052545962) Not sure if they go to Stuart. Great people.

I changed out the door seals, added 1/2 foam board insulation and a Stainless Lobster which has a forced defrost time of your specs.
I suggest adding a second fan in the compressor compartment to improve the efficiency.
I also installed a vent out the back of the compressor area.
It is the humidity inside the box that causes the ice build up. Stop opening the door and I suspect you would only need to defrost totally, once a year.

 

[rsn48]

If you do have to pull the fridge and there is room, add one inch insulation around it, this really does change the performance of the fridge improving freezing and cooling. It also reduces the time your fridge is on. I did this to my fridge/freezer and my separate dedicated freezer - saves on energy.

 

[OldDan1943]

I suspect, if you are in need of a part quickly, check with the larger RV stores.

 

[Frosty]

The Danfoss compressors run on something like a low voltage 3 phase AC if I'm remembering correctly. So the controller is doing power conversion on either AC or DC (and some of the controllers are DC input only).

I was just on the phone with Secop (Danfoss) asking about something else recently, and since I got one of those great tech people who will talk to you about a wide range of things, I asked quite a few side questions.

One was about the DC only model, vs. the AC/DC model. From what I understand, they are native DC compressors, and the AC part is an add-on converter type thing that goes onto the electronic control module. That seems to be backed up by the fact that when I bought my Vitrifrigo (BD 35 compressor) from Sure marine in 2014, I wanted the AC/DC model but they only had a DC one in stock. They said they could (and did) change that very DC refrigerator to an AC/DC by putting on the AC/DC control module (no change to the actual compressor). (That way I didn't have to wait months for another shipment).

Anyway, what I was asking the tech about was that I had heard a "rumor" that the AC module was prone to breakage, and was wondering if I should limit my use of it. This tech said no, go ahead and use directly from AC when I want to. It's still a DC compressor though.

***********

I have this unit in an RV and since I am set up to run on solar most of the time, when I do plug in I oftentimes still don't run a charger (since my solar controller is able to be programmed more elegantly for charging). Instead, I just run any AC items straight from shorepower (refrigerator being the main load I shift over). Solar easily takes care of the DC only items which are smaller draws. I wondered if that was putting undue additional risk onto my refrigerator's electronic control board.

(Tangent: I had read why bother to pay extra for the AC/DC model - it was around $100 more. I did and have appreciated that a number of times. This particular refrigerator was going in an RV, but it could work out similar dockside. In addition to running it straight off AC by choice sometimes, I have also been able to run it a number of times when I had my DC system offline for one reason or another (upgrade, etc.). So I've found it handy and worth the extra ~$100.)

Summary: I believe the Danfoss/Secop BD compressors are native DC compressors. The AC is an add on converter type of function.

 

[rslifkin]

Interesting. My understanding is that the old Danfoss stuff (like the BD2.5 and BD3) was native DC and the AC was an add on converter. But I've always seen the later models (like the BD35 and BD50) described as being an AC inverter drive.

 

[Cartouche]

Has anyone replaced their Nova Kool AC/DC refrigerator / freezer? Mine took a dump this past week. The controller/condensing unit is probably the issue. Very difficult to find replacement parts. Suppliers for a new RFU6200 AC/DC unit want 6-12 weeks lead time with prepayment, no refunds and no guarantee to it will arrive in that time period.

Thoughts on a different model?

Thanks

Change your supplier In stock
https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=11375|10904&product=60055842&code=977519

 

[welippisch]

Thank you

Found a new Danfoss AC/DC controller on eBay at 60% cost which fixed the problem. Many thanks to all that responded.

 

[Bay Retriever]

Chances are your control module took a dump. There is a place in Hollywood where you can buy the module. I suspect there is a place in or around Stuart too.

Mine fridge took a dump, tech came on board and in 20 mins, pulled fridge, changed the module and put the fridge back in.
I used StateWide Marine Inc. (3052545962) Not sure if they go to Stuart. Great people.

I changed out the door seals, added 1/2 foam board insulation and a Stainless Lobster which has a forced defrost time of your specs.
I suggest adding a second fan in the compressor compartment to improve the efficiency.
I also installed a vent out the back of the compressor area.
It is the humidity inside the box that causes the ice build up. Stop opening the door and I suspect you would only need to defrost totally, once a year.

What, pray tell, is a stainless lobster?

 

[Diverrob]

What, pray tell, is a stainless lobster?

https://seabits.com/save-battery-beer-stainless-lobster-fridge-optimizer/

 

[cks]

We replaced with a two drawer Isotherm Drawer 5.5 cu ft refrigerator. Very satisfied.

 

[Frosty]

What, pray tell, is a stainless lobster?

As mentioned above, Stainless Lobster was a really slick digital refrigerator controller, developed by cruisers.

That was sold/bought by a larger company (I'd have to dig up their name), which, from what I can tell, never actually sold any (it was always coming soon).

Recently, another company has taken it over. I called them a couple of weeks ago, and although it's not available now, they say it will be in future. It was pretty cool to begin with, but the fellow explained a couple of weaknesses it did have, and said they are improving on that. So there may be an even better "Stainless Lobster" in future.

I have been completely spoiled by the digital/outside-the-coolbox thermostat on my portable compressor refrigerator; so when I recently installed my built-in one, the mechanical thermostat was a bit of a let-down.

Since there is no Stainless Lobster now, I looked into some alternatives. I would have chosen the Isotherm ITC, but it will only work on the newer (within the last couple of years) Danfoss/Secop controllers. Instead I ended up with (at least for now), a ~$15 "Inkbird" DC digital thermostat from Amazon. I still like the Stainless Lobster best, but I think the Inkbird will be preferable (for me) to the stock mechanical thermostat until I have another option.

(I haven't installed mine yet, but I helped a buddy install an identical refrigerator and we have put the Inkbird on his already.)

If I turn up my info on the current Stainless Lobster company, I will post back. IIRC it was a "van life" type of company.

Edited to add:
Here it is, "coming soon" at Pika Van Outfitters. I spoke to them a couple of weeks ago and it sounded like they were keeping the basics of it, while making a few improvement "tweaks."

https://www.pikavo.com/pikavo/product/pikavo-products/stainless-lobster-digital-fridge-controller

 

[Bay Retriever]

Chances are your control module took a dump. There is a place in Hollywood where you can buy the module. I suspect there is a place in or around Stuart too.

Mine fridge took a dump, tech came on board and in 20 mins, pulled fridge, changed the module and put the fridge back in.
I used StateWide Marine Inc. (3052545962) Not sure if they go to Stuart. Great people.

I changed out the door seals, added 1/2 foam board insulation and a Stainless Lobster which has a forced defrost time of your specs.
I suggest adding a second fan in the compressor compartment to improve the efficiency.
I also installed a vent out the back of the compressor area.
It is the humidity inside the box that causes the ice build up. Stop opening the door and I suspect you would only need to defrost totally, once a year.

I have a 2004 Mainship 400 and just pulled the refrigerator out to take a peak. Would like to add the insulation mentioned in this thread. Where did you add the insulation? Mine doesn’t have much room on the sides of the fridge...seems pretty tight. Please advise.

T MacDonnell
Bay Retriever
2004 Mainship 400

 

[OldDan1943]

I have a 2004 Mainship 400 and just pulled the refrigerator out to take a peak. Would like to add the insulation mentioned in this thread. Where did you add the insulation? Mine View attachment 115776View attachment 115777doesn’t have much room on the sides of the fridge...seems pretty tight. Please advise.

T MacDonnell
Bay Retriever
2004 Mainship 400

Taped tape.
The 2 sides and top of the box. I had enough space for 1/2 inch thick foam shinny side out. I used aluminum sticking tape to secure the insulating board.
The of the box has the coils.

 

[stevemitchell]

As mentioned above, Stainless Lobster was a really slick digital refrigerator controller, developed by cruisers.

That was sold/bought by a larger company (I'd have to dig up their name), which, from what I can tell, never actually sold any (it was always coming soon).

Recently, another company has taken it over. I called them a couple of weeks ago, and although it's not available now, they say it will be in future. It was pretty cool to begin with, but the fellow explained a couple of weaknesses it did have, and said they are improving on that. So there may be an even better "Stainless Lobster" in future.

I have been completely spoiled by the digital/outside-the-coolbox thermostat on my portable compressor refrigerator; so when I recently installed my built-in one, the mechanical thermostat was a bit of a let-down.

Since there is no Stainless Lobster now, I looked into some alternatives. I would have chosen the Isotherm ITC, but it will only work on the newer (within the last couple of years) Danfoss/Secop controllers. Instead I ended up with (at least for now), a ~$15 "Inkbird" DC digital thermostat from Amazon. I still like the Stainless Lobster best, but I think the Inkbird will be preferable (for me) to the stock mechanical thermostat until I have another option.

(I haven't installed mine yet, but I helped a buddy install an identical refrigerator and we have put the Inkbird on his already.)

If I turn up my info on the current Stainless Lobster company, I will post back. IIRC it was a "van life" type of company.

Edited to add:
Here it is, "coming soon" at Pika Van Outfitters. I spoke to them a couple of weeks ago and it sounded like they were keeping the basics of it, while making a few improvement "tweaks."

https://www.pikavo.com/pikavo/product/pikavo-products/stainless-lobster-digital-fridge-controller

I wrote the original cited article on Stainless Lobster both for my site and I think for Three Sheets NW or 48N.

The product was fantastic for reducing power usage on compatible compressors. On my previous sailboat, it saved 1/2 of my power (or more) draw from the fridge.

It was created by a husband and wife cruising team here in Seattle and they had tons of customers the first couple of years, but then the company was sold as was mentioned. It's gone through 2 different owners (at least) since then, and I have about one person a week who email me about either parts or getting a new system altogether.

None of the companies that bought it seemed to be able to keep up with demand or were able to service the existing systems, so I would be wary of purchasing anything new without ensuring you could get some level of support.

The good news is that the main control unit is likely the hardest and most expensive part to deal with. The connector on the compressor is 3d printed and should last a long time, the fan and temp sensor that goes inside the fridge are all off the shelf components easily sourced at a computer store or online, and the cabling is all simple ethernet or wire, so can be redone as well.

Hopefully this new place will launch and support it again, as I'd love to have one on my current boat to help reduce power usage!

 

[Frosty]

Steve,
Your articles are always appreciated and are one of my go-to's

Hopefully this new place will launch and support it again, as I'd love to have one on my current boat to help reduce power usage!

Agreed and I'm keeping an eye on their page. The fellow told me about a couple of the mods they are making. IIRC, one had to do with the fan you put in the fridge (or its control?), and the other one I'm wracking my brain but can't remember! As I remember it was something more integral to the "head unit."

The Inkbird was cheap and seems to function pretty well -- but not as satisfying.

*******
Not applicable to existing installations, I noticed that Vitfifrigo now has external/digital temp controls on their "fancy" line of refrigerators (stainless/drawer/etc.). So perhaps they will become more common. They probably don't let you do fun things like set hysteresis though.

I imagine I'm not the only one who was spoiled by a nice external/digital/temp setting and display on a portable refrigerator; only to have to go back to the ol' mechanical numbered knob buried way in back when upgrading to a nice built-in unit.