Northern Lights - Voltage Regulator (repair?)

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zigzag930

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2020
Messages
32
Location
USA
Vessel Make
Hatteras 58LRC
Has anyone found a source to repair Northern Lights automatic voltage regulators. At $800+ I'd sure like to know if my defective unit can be serviced instead.

Alternatively, is the a decent source for discounted Northern Lights parts?

I believe the part I require is: 22-68035

Thanks....
 
I get my voltage regulaters from a company called flight systems. You will have to google it as I don't remember there web site. Hope this helps

Gary
 
I'll be interested to hear how this goes. We may need one of these (other work is needed before we can get back to this part)
 
Yes, I have already emailed them and asked about a universal replacement for the NL's AVR. I sure hope their $150 units will work and save me over $700.00
 
Depending on what's burnt out, voltage regulators can be repaired. There's several people on the web that do circuit board repair. They verify each item on the board and replace the defective part. The repairers do all types of electronics. They're not voltage regulator experts, but component experts and have sources for almost all items found on a circuit board.
I haven't had a repair in several years, but the last one cost about $100, new board would have cost $500, took about 2 weeks with shipping. I've had boards repaired from nav instruments to washing machine circuits fixed.
A couple companies I used in the past:
https://circuitboardmedics.com/
https://www.acsindustrial.com/printed-circuit-board-repair.php
 
Lepke: Thanks, I will contact them to see if repair is possible.

Twistedtree: Yes, they are potted, so not sure if that would mean repair can not be made. I will post the answer once I speak to those recommended above.
 
Potting makes things harder to get at, that is for sure. But, depending upon what they are potted in and how much of the board needs to be inspected and/or worked, it isn't necessarily an impossible barrier.

I've carefully cut off potting with an "exacto" or work knife, removed it with small plastic scrapers, heated it and peeled it off, and dissolved it using old school paint thinners, e.g. not the citrus stuff (though, I can't say the citrus stuff won't work for some potting materials).

I guess, as you are doing, I'd recommend asking. I suspect those who do nothing but repair these boards all day have good techniques for what they do -- and know what they won't do.
 
Resolved - how to deal with bad AVR

We (a customer of mine and myself) were able to dig out some of the potting material to check a few of the "usual suspects" on the board but didn't find anything that appeared to be defective on the original AVR.

So, going down a different route - we obtained the schematics for M673 and were able to determine how the regulator was wired in. Nothing especially unique was noted.

As I was not able to swallow the (in my opinion - OUTRAGEOUS) $850.00 price for the OEM Northern Lights AVR, I decided it was worth trying to match up an off the shelf AVR.

On 1st attempt, I ordered a nice looking AVR from Amazon. The instructions that came with the unit were terrible, but we cut the connector off the original TAIYO regulator, and wired it up to this new AVR. After experimenting for a hour or so, I was unable to make the AVR control the voltage to the 240VAC required. This AVR was returned and experiment #1 was chalked off as a failure.

On our next attempt, a different (simpler design and hook-up) was selected. Again, it was wired up and tested. Bingo. 190VAC with the potentiometer turned down. Once, I adjusted the pot, I was able to achieve 240VAC virtually rock solid. This is with only a 4 wire hook-up instead of the original seven.

I have a bit more testing to do and will need to install a dummy load on the two wires that are no longer used to prevent possible "arcing", etc.

But the good news (provisionally) is that I may have $30 AVR solution that works!!!

I will share more detailed information once I have additional testing data and the AVR proves to be reliable, etc. Stay tuned.

PS - tonight I will fabricate a new mounting plate (out of plexiglass) to adapt the new AVR to the original mounting stand offs.
 
The voltage regulator on my Onan MDJE gave out a few years back. Flight systems was still a pretty expensive option as I recall for that regulator.

On doing some research I stumbled across a thread on the Smokestack forum. Guys were using a Chinese regulator and a resistor for a very economical replacement.

I ordered one on either Ebay or Amazon for 35 dollars and ordered the needed resistor and once wired in the thing regulated the voltage like a champ!

So you may want to do some research on some of the engine forums to see if there may be other solutions. The regulator I used is a SX460.
 
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Zigzag, that is just excellent - mine still works but I want to see your conclusions.
 
I finished up everything today and plan to take the boat on a overnight cruise this weekend where we'll anchor out and have a chance to run the generator for an extended time.

If all is well, I'll post to the forum.

In the meantime, today I added a small LED indicator lamp to the 120vac secondary winding, which is no longer hooked up or needed with the new AVR. I was told that I shouldn't leave that 120vac coil open, without a load as the stray voltage might start to look for a path. The LED indicator lamp is a $3.00 solution to that potential problem.

I tried to post some nice pictures as attachments, but they are too large. I will have to see if I can find a way to reduce the quality or size of them. Is there another way to post, perhaps a link to them?
 
Having a NL I am also very interested in your solution to an otherwise very expensive repair. At $30 it would be worth carrying a spare!

Ken
 
Duvie,

The second regulator I used was indeed the SX460. I've now run the generator for about 20 hours without any issues, so looks like this is a permanent fix.

Not sure about the need for a resistor anywhere unless they used that instead of the LED indicator lamp I installed on the unused AC terminals.

I will be ordering another one of these tomorrow!!!

My photos won't upload. They are too large, but if anyone needs - can email them to you if you PM your address.
 
Duvie,

The second regulator I used was indeed the SX460. I've now run the generator for about 20 hours without any issues, so looks like this is a permanent fix.

Not sure about the need for a resistor anywhere unless they used that instead of the LED indicator lamp I installed on the unused AC terminals.

I will be ordering another one of these tomorrow!!!

My photos won't upload. They are too large, but if anyone needs - can email them to you if you PM your address.
Hi, I’m new here so I’m not sure I’m doing this right but I have a Northern lights M 643 and I’m pretty sure the voltage regulator is shot. Can you send me a picture of the wiring diagram? Thank you in advance..ccclark06@icloud.com
 
Downeast,

You should have the operators manual, as it has the wiring diagram in the rear. Get it by Googling “NL 643 owners manual”

Has other hand information also.
 
I have looked at that online but is the new control board wired exactly the same? It looks different to me
 
Downeast,

I don’t know the answer, but I would not hesitate to call them for guidance on this.

They have pretty good support.
 
Has anyone found a source to repair Northern Lights automatic voltage regulators. At $800+ I'd sure like to know if my defective unit can be serviced instead.

Alternatively, is the a decent source for discounted Northern Lights parts?

I believe the part I require is: 22-68035

Thanks....
Having the same issue could you send me a quick schematic please
 
Wiring the SX460

Here is the conversation I had with the engineer that advised me on how to hook up the SX460. You will see my questions, followed by his answers.

I would have to go down to the boat and open up the Generator to answer any specific questions, but I believe the information below may answer you wiring questions:

1) Move the frequency jumper to the right (60hz) CORRECT
2) Leave jumper on 1-2 CORRECT
3) Connect red and blue wires (DC voltage out?) to X XX on new AVR CORRECT / RED TO X / BLUE TO XX
4) Install new jumper (not provided) on 3-4 to select 110v operation (diagram is incorrect according to section 2.2) OR, do I leave it as 220? Which voltage will be use as the reference? NOJUMPER/LEAVE FOR 220 USE OPEN CONNECTION
5) If using 110v sense, I would think I connect the orange and gray to pins 7 & 8, OR if using 220v sense connect to Green, Dark Brown (but this doesn’t make sense as I don’t think there is 220v there. In either case I would install the 5 amp fuse between the voltage source and the AVR, correct?
GREEN & DARK BROWN CONNECT TO 7 & 8 / USE A FUSE ON EITHER WIRE
6) ORANGE & GRAY CONNECT TO LED 120V BULB JIG
 
Voltage Regulator (AVR" for Northern Lights M673 - Generic Replacement

For Future Reference/Search: Reviving this thread with a workaround repair using a generic AVR to replace the expensive and difficult to source AVR on my circa 2019 NL M673 (6kw) generator. Please note, this worked for me on my 120VAC generator. I make no claims it will work for others, but it might and it's at least a good starting point (and hopefully a finishing point).

1. Generic AVR located HERE for $21 at time of writing. If the link is dead, Google "GAVR-8A AVR Generator Automatic Voltage Regulator Module." Mine came from "Thunder Parts Store."

NL M673 AVR 1.jpg

2. Wiring on the AVR - you will need 4 wires. 12VDC Black/Red; and 120VAC White/Black. The Black/Red leads will go into a female plug on the NL wiring harness so either crimp-on a male spike-connector, or solder bare wires into a suitable male lead. The W/B 120VAC will need standard ring-terminal.

NL M673 AVR 2.jpg

NL M673 AVR 3.jpg

NL M673 AVR 4.jpg

3. Jumpers on circuit board. There is an array of 7 terminals on the circuit board. My electrician did this before I saw how it looked out-of-the-box. The Amazon pictures show jumpers so I don't know why my electrician fabricated one. Perhaps he discarded the on-board jumpers before he knew he needed them. Regardless, on my board. the terminals are jumped as shown below - one uses the 'factory' jumper; the other leads my electrician crimped.

NL M673 AVR 5.jpg

Hopefully this helps someone down the line. Was a PITA for me.

Peter

POSTERITY: KEYWORDS FOR SEARCH
Northern Lights AVR
Automatic Voltage Regulator
M673 AVR
22-68035 (Current Part #)
22-68006 (prior Part #)
 
Nother lights- voltage regulator

Here's a bit more info to try to help people with this. My northern lights generator quit charging, first I replaced the brushes. I got them on Amazon, for a generac part # 0663860srv, way cheaper. They were worn out, but still didn't charge. Then I found this thread and bought the regulator shown. I cut the harness off of the existing regulator, the F+ went to the red wire marked J, the F- went to the blue wire marked k. These wires go to the brushes and can be checked for continuity with a ohm meter. None of the other wires are used. The other two terminals on the regulator are 120v signal wires that I attached jumper wires to where the wires come out of the generator body and the fuses are. Neutral on mine was the black and hot was red. Fired it up and it works!! Total cost of repair about $50! Hope this helps.
 
Att Zigzag930

I finished up everything today and plan to take the boat on a overnight cruise this weekend where we'll anchor out and have a chance to run the generator for an extended time.

If all is well, I'll post to the forum.

In the meantime, today I added a small LED indicator lamp to the 120vac secondary winding, which is no longer hooked up or needed with the new AVR. I was told that I shouldn't leave that 120vac coil open, without a load as the stray voltage might start to look for a path. The LED indicator lamp is a $3.00 solution to that potential problem.

I tried to post some nice pictures as attachments, but they are too large. I will have to see if I can find a way to reduce the quality or size of them. Is there another way to post, perhaps a link to them?


Could you send me the viring diagram for the sx 460 avr for the northen light generator pleace my adress is trond.rongved@selecta.com
 
Att Zigzag930




Could you send me the viring diagram for the sx 460 avr for the northen light generator pleace my adress is trond.rongved@selecta.com
Hey There. Im in the Bahamas on my boat and trying to hook up a GAVR-8 to my Northern Lights 673L3 generator with a bad AVR. My existing plug has 5 wires coming in to the NL AVR. Red, Blue,Green,Orange and Grey the GAVR-8 has F+ (Red) F- (Blue) R (?) N (?) H(?) question is where do the green, grey and orange wires go?
 
Hey There. Im in the Bahamas on my boat and trying to hook up a GAVR-8 to my Northern Lights 673L3 generator with a bad AVR. My existing plug has 5 wires coming in to the NL AVR. Red, Blue,Green,Orange and Grey the GAVR-8 has F+ (Red) F- (Blue) R (?) N (?) H(?) question is where do the green, grey and orange wires go?
They aren't used. Seems bizarre, I know. Ran mine over 12 hours this weekend,works great.
 
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