Perkins 135 mani-cooler leaking

[rusbet]

About one month ago we replaced our radiator cap because of leaks.* The radiator cap was 7# rated and came from Trans Atlantic Diesel.* We then began our Great Loop Adventure.* Within two weeks we noticed anti-freeze under the engine.* The fresh water tank to the engine was replaced and an overflow tank was installed.* About one week later we noticed an accumulation of anti-freeze under the engine and found that the two bolts under the mani-cooler were leaking.* (We had been topping off the anti-freeze thinking that not enough had been put in when the pump was installed but of course we were WRONG).* We are now at Isle of Hope Marina MM 590 and a mechanic is coming out this morning to look at it.* When speaking with the mechanic who installed the water pump, he thought that the mani-cooler may only need to be reseated.* When speaking with Trans Atlantic diesel they suggest that if that does not work, a kit to redo the mani-cooler for about $3,500 plus labor might be the next step.

Our Perkins has 2400 hours.* It had been on the hard from March 2009 to November 2010 (with the exception of a short survey trip.* Pls don't tell us we should not have purchased the boat.* We were green and new to this

Any thoughts or sage advice?

 

[jleonard]

Hopefully it can be reseated.

If not then yes, those Perkins manicoolers are gold plated.

 

[JohnP]

First I want to say kudos to you for having an idea and getting* a boat an actually going ahead with your plans.

Also I am sorry you are having trouble with the coolant leaks.* Hopefully the right mechanic* will get you back on track.* It is early in your trip, so repairing your engine to reliable condition is a good investment in the future success of your trip.

On a side note, I have*a nice big slip for your use for free when you get to NJ. You can take a break from the trip and chill awhile.*No problem even if you elect to postpone any window work till another time.

Take care and good luck.* John and Miri P

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[rusbet]

Thank you, John and Mini.* We needed that pat on the back.*

Look forward to meeting you when we get to NJ.

JohnP wrote:

First I want to say kudos to you for having an idea and getting* a boat an actually going ahead with your plans.

Also I am sorry you are having trouble with the coolant leaks.* Hopefully the right mechanic* will get you back on track.* It is early in your trip, so repairing your engine to reliable condition is a good investment in the future success of your trip.

On a side note, I have*a nice big slip for your use for free when you get to NJ. You can take a break from the trip and chill awhile.*No problem even if you elect to postpone any window work till another time.

Take care and good luck.* John and Miri P

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[sunchaser]

Rusbet

Unfortunately marine age enters into engine life. Whether Perkins, Cummins, Cat*or??, after 25 years figure your cooling system is going to be iffy. TA Diesel is about as good for price as you will find. While you are at it, you may want to consider changing out other old cooling system stuff such as exhaust shower head,*oil coolers and hoses.

 

[Egregious]

I had an oil/trans cooler go out on my Perkins (also Monk 36).* TAD wanted an outragious price for the Perkins parts.* My mechanic got a quality replacement from another manufacturer and fabricated a mount for it, and for less than 1/2 the price.* The new one actually takes up less space.* My advice is don't buy the Perkins part, it is robbery although going the fabrication route will take time.

 

[rusbet]

Thanks for all the good advice and suggestions. This is what happened. Remember that we are new at this boat and crusing business. The mechanic who installed the overflow tank did not have a long enough piece of hose to connect the tank to the mani-cooler so he used the old overflow hose to connect with the new hose from the overflow tank. We had to add antifreeze almost every day which seemed a bit odd. When we had a chance to really look at it it seemed that the antifreeze was leaking at the bolts under the mani-cooler. The mechanic did a pressure test and the results indicated no leaks. He noticed that the old hose was the culprit. Why we did not see it is a subject for dinner-time discussion. The fix was a new hose. I can't tell you how relieved we were.

I think what had happened is that we eliminated the radiator and overflow tank as possible causes and saw that the trail of antifreeze had gathered at the bolts under the mani-cooler. And jumped to the conclusion that that must be where the problem was. If we had gone back to square one and looked closer at the trail of anti-freeze we might have figured it out ourselves...well...maybe.

 

[JohnP]

rusbet wrote:
*The fix was a new hose. I can't tell you how relieved we were.

Great,* Glad the fix turned out to be pretty simple.

Now back to the cruise!

JohnP



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[Fotoman]

rusbet wrote:
Thanks for all the good advice and suggestions. This is what happened. Remember that we are new at this boat and crusing business. The mechanic who installed the overflow tank did not have a long enough piece of hose to connect the tank to the mani-cooler so he used the old overflow hose to connect with the new hose from the overflow tank. We had to add antifreeze almost every day which seemed a bit odd. When we had a chance to really look at it it seemed that the antifreeze was leaking at the bolts under the mani-cooler. The mechanic did a pressure test and the results indicated no leaks. He noticed that the old hose was the culprit. Why we did not see it is a subject for dinner-time discussion. The fix was a new hose. I can't tell you how relieved we were.

I think what had happened is that we eliminated the radiator and overflow tank as possible causes and saw that the trail of antifreeze had gathered at the bolts under the mani-cooler. And jumped to the conclusion that that must be where the problem was. If we had gone back to square one and looked closer at the trail of anti-freeze we might have figured it out ourselves...well...maybe.

This is a great example that troubleshooting should always start with the simplest/easiest possible causes. Just like any computer trouble: start by rebooting the machine, that usually solves the problem 90% of the time!

Enjoy the rest of your trip and treat yourselves to a nice dinner with some of that $3,500 you didn't spend on a new part!

 

[FF]

Mani -cooler?

If what you have is an exhaust manifold with the heat exchanger built in , which was common in the 60-s , only a re solder may be needed.

Now that a hose has you operating , just keep in mind that the solder inside these assemblies has sea water passing by.

This eventually causes leaks in the solder .

A radiator shop can re solder the tube ends with ease for about 15 min of labor charge.

Should the entire internals be shot , it might be possible to keep the water cooled manifold and simply get a heat exchanger from Sendure or any std source.

 

[JohnP]

FF wrote:
Mani -cooler?


Should the entire internals be shot , it might be possible to keep the water cooled manifold and simply get a heat exchanger from Sendure or any std source.

This sounds like the way to go considering another poster quoted it costs $3500+ for the rebuild parts alone.

Good suggestion.** JohnP

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[Tom.B]

I don't have an overflow tank on ours. The tube from the filler cap neck just dumps into the catch tray. You guys think I should add one? Will one of those automotive kits be enough?

Tom-

 

[Tom.B]

Well... If I fill the tank up to where *I* would consider full, it will spill some out when it heats up (expanding the fluid). That's why I was wondering if it is SUPPOSED to have one that have grown legs and walked off the boat.

 

[jleonard]

I would add an overflow tank. An automotive universal type will be fine. I've done that on more than one occasion.

 

[JohnP]

Gonzo,* I think you should have one just to keep the overflow out of the pan under the engine.* A lot cleaner I would think.

The lehman120 has a unique problem, the overflow tube is a one way design, the coolant expands out but does not return as the engine cools.

American Diesel has a retrofit filler neck that corrects this issue.

However my boat has been okay with the original design for 30years. If I service the coolant I fill it to the top, and as it heats up the excess goes into the over flow.At that point I think the coolant is at the right level and when it cools I do not add more or the cycle will continue forever.

The point is if your Perkins has an overflow that will return as the engine cools I would put a bottle on it pronto. I think one from the auto store is fine.

MY 2 cents** JohnP

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[Tom.B]

Will do... Thanks for the advice.

 

[FF]

"The lehman120 has a unique problem, the overflow tube is a one way design, the coolant expands out but does not return as the engine cools."

This was standard in the auto world for 75 years, it is not a problem, just its operation.

With a header tank above the engine , it does not matter if the tank is partially full, because it , over time, has purged all the insulating air from the cooling system.

The modern returning overflow tank in autos is simply to perform this function.

With no air your auto radiator can be 25% smaller , big savings on a few million cars.

 

[JohnP]

FF,* This makes sense, the header tank being the highest point is there to collect any air in the system, so keeping it full to the top is not required.

Your right about the switch to smaller rads and overflow systems in modern cars.

Now I get it.

JohnP