Cottontop
Senior Member
Hmm... not sure if that is exactly true.
If the leak is in the transom, the pressure might be greatly reduced. Maybe by planing or semi-planing, you could get the leak out of the water, depending where it is.
Hmm... not sure if that is exactly true.
Six feet under water would be a differential pressure on the hull of about 3psi, no?
Interesting. All of those examples seem to be low pressure issues. I am not sure a through hull, hose, or crack failure on my boat would be that low pressure?
How much pressure can it handle?
We have tested Stay Afloat to 19.15 PSIA at 3 meters deep for 24hrs with no compromise. It also depends on how much material you use and how big the damage area is, common sense, the bigger the hole the more you use.
I read an account some time ago where a guy's pumps were not keeping up. He closed the raw water intakes for his engines, disconnected the hoses and ran the engines to the yard near WOT with someone watching the water level so he didn't run the engines dry.
Don't know if that was an urban myth or not!
I keep a heavy tarp on board with lines attached which will reach around the hull. The plan would be to drop the tarp off the bow and work it into place to cover hull damage and slow water intrusion.
I have to admit that the rescue tape is stuffed into a lazarette somewhere. Not much help if I have to go hunting for it, or it is in a location that is under water. The same would be true of Stay Afloat. Only works if you can put your hands on it quickly. I really need to organize my boat better.
Like an IUD?Saw a product that made sense, but can't find it now.
It was a flexible rubber/plastic disc on a stick...you push it through the hole, then it opens into its round shape and water pressure forces it against the hole.
Ring a bell?
You guys are way over thinking this.
just wrap that hull breach with a blue tarp.
Before you depend on pulling off an engine intake hose for dewatering, close the seacock and try it at the dock. Now add in that it may be under water in an emergency. A lot harder than you think.
And if you have pre-installed plumbing, don't forget that you will need to close the seacock first which means you will need to shutdown that engine or risk impeller meltdown.
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And if you have pre-installed plumbing, don't forget that you will need to close the seacock first which means you will need to shutdown that engine or risk impeller meltdown.
Many sport fishing boats, Cabo's in particular, have a y in the intake so you can switch from the raw water intake to a crash pump with a strainer. It wouldn't take much to retrofit depending on your layout.
Hah, I have a easer and quicker solution.
I am just going to tell the wife to stick her big arse in it!
Agree if you have a Y valve. They only factory install I've seen used a seacock, tee , strainer, and a gate valveNo, I don't think so. If it was pre-plumbed for this function, with a y-valve in the intake, with one hose to the through hull, and one to a strainer in the bilge, it would mean a simple flick over to the bilge side would be quite easy, leaving the normal intake seacock open, so that when the bilge was drained enough there was a danger of sucking air, s simple flick back the other way would again have the engine drawing from the through hull normally.
And if you have pre-installed plumbing, don't forget that you will need to close the seacock first which means you will need to shutdown that engine or risk impeller meltdown.
Many sport fishing boats, Cabo's in particular, have a y in the intake so you can switch from the raw water intake to a crash pump with a strainer. It wouldn't take much to retrofit depending on your layout.
No, I don't think so. If it was pre-plumbed for this function, with a y-valve in the intake, with one hose to the through hull, and one to a strainer in the bilge, it would mean a simple flick over to the bilge side would be quite easy, leaving the normal intake seacock open, so that when the bilge was drained enough there was a danger of sucking air, s simple flick back the other way would again have the engine drawing from the through hull normally.
Could one of the "Engine raw water pump' advocates offer what a gpm discharge would be?
Yup. I have looked at some systems that allow for a freshwater flush fitting along with an emergency bilge pump. I would like to do it as soon as I feel up to tackling those very stiff raw water hoses.
I read an account some time ago where a guy's pumps were not keeping up. He closed the raw water intakes for his engines, disconnected the hoses and ran the engines to the yard near WOT with someone watching the water level so he didn't run the engines dry.
Don't know if that was an urban myth or not!