Potential New Build On The Horizon?

[FWT]

Your comment on supporting the 22' mast is right on point. First time I "attempted" to lift it into its vertical position (per the video) I could not do it and thought "time to sell and buy another trawler". But I could not give up this easy. While at the yard I had another person up on the forward deck assist me and was able to raise and lower the mast. Conclusions include; 1) I'm a little short at 5' 4" which hurts my leverage. 2) I'm not as strong as I was at 20 years old and need to work on my upper body strength.

For assistance and reduce risk of killing myself I built a cradle (PVC) to hold the mast at the 45-degree position while I step up onto the bow deck. I have not tested it yet and not sure if 45-degrees is the right angle but I can adjust it. I'm also considering second support closer to 75-degrees for when I start to lower the mast. Both can be built in sections and fit the pick-up truck so not concerned with storage.

Returning to trailing a boat is definitely a challenge and adding the mast (not to mention the sails still in the bag) is making me wonder how this will all work out. That new N52 is starting to look good.

John

As an engineer you can appreciate this. The forces needed to raise the mast are the least at the top of the mast, and rise fast as you approach the mast step (base). But as the mast rises, the forces lessen so that it takes less as you proceed. So one basic principle is you lift while standing as far to the stern as you can, lift to maybe shoulder height and walk forward with it and lifting as you go.

But you do need a margin of safety. Doing this to the edge of your ability is asking for trouble.

You think raising it is tough? When dropping it the momentum of that weight coming down on you is rough. While walking. Backward.

 

[N4061]

engineering

As an engineer you can appreciate this. The forces needed to raise the mast are the least at the top of the mast, and rise fast as you approach the mast step (base). But as the mast rises, the forces lessen so that it takes less as you proceed. So one basic principle is you lift while standing as far to the stern as you can, lift to maybe shoulder height and walk forward with it and lifting as you go.

But you do need a margin of safety. Doing this to the edge of your ability is asking for trouble.

You think raising it is tough? When dropping it the momentum of that weight coming down on you is rough. While walking. Backward.

Very true and experienced firsthand (ouch). The primary two reasons I selected this boat were its wide beam (learned this from trawlers) for maximum interior space and the hinged mast that one person can walk up into position and take down (not so sure). Geoff (the builder) makes this look easy on the video (don't believe everything you see) but he has a few advantages over me and our open deck plan boat. All these differences I already discussed and have a plan to address. This weekend I will try the homemade PVC resting cradle at 45 - 75 degree mast angles and see how that helps. Also planning to purchase a weight set and build up some upper body strength (I knew sailing would be more work than sitting in a warm pilothouse but this is getting a little crazy). Once I feel comfortable raising and lowing the mast in the driveway, we will take her out for spin using the electric motor. Then worry about the sails. Just another adventure with another boat.

John

 

[Porgy]

The repair looks good from the photo. Great work.

Thinking out loud on raising and lowering the mast: Run a line between tiedown points in the bed of the truck. Attach a handy billy (aka block and tackle) to it. Attach the other end to the mast. Maybe the throat halyard then hoist it up to the throat. The block at the truck end would have a cam cleat. (Should be quite similar setup to the boom sheets on your N40s.) Could be a 2:1 or 3:1 purchase depending what you need. Run the free end of block and tackle line to the cockpit with you. Start walking the mast up. As you do so, take in the block and tackle slack. The cam cleat will keep it taught and you can reposition yourself and keep walking it up. You may even be able to hoist with it alone. Sounds more complicated than it is- block and tackle anchored to the truck bed.

 

[FF]

Having a mast that raises and lowers easily is very easy to do.


The trick is called a lutchett, where the mast in a tabernackle is stepped on the keel , not on the deck, and is heavily counter weighted.

The fore deck had a hatch that would allow the lower mast portion to swing up that balanced the weight of the sail rig.

In the mid 1800's the Brit Thames barges could be worked by a "man & a boy" passing under many London bridges with little effort.

 

[twistedtree]

John, do you raise and lower the mast while the boat is still in the trailer, or after it's been launched? If in the trailer, I wonder if you could somehow used the winch on the trailer to assist in raising and lowering? It seems like it would be all too easy from the mast to get away from you when raising and lowering, and a winch could give you a lot more control, not to mention more lifting strength.

 

[N4061]

The Mast

John, do you raise and lower the mast while the boat is still in the trailer, or after it's been launched? If in the trailer, I wonder if you could somehow used the winch on the trailer to assist in raising and lowering? It seems like it would be all too easy from the mast to get away from you when raising and lowering, and a winch could give you a lot more control, not to mention more lifting strength.

Short answer is this all gets done while the boat is on the trailer. I could not even think about doing this while the boat was in the water and likely moving about.

Update - after talking with the builder regarding the fun and adventures I'm already having I pulled the boat (by hand) out of the garage yesterday and decided to give the mast raising one more try. Starting aft in the cockpit and walking forward with the mast overhead I realized it wasn't that heavy now that I had everything fully released. When I reached the bow deck and thought about the balancing act required to step up onto it I decided the mast was still light enough and decided to start over from the bow deck. After lowering the mast into its holder and stepping up onto the bow deck I lifted the mast and confirmed this could work as a starting point. After a few attempts aligning the post just perfect into the socket "presto it fit in perfectly". Wow, that's one tall mast I thought. Next was to study the lines (more lines than I thought, and the sail is not even attached). A little intimidating but I started slow and took them one by one. I was able to correct one line that was between the boom and a Bungy Cord then looked at a few more and took notes for Geoff. I did not want to start undoing everything until I knew I was doing this right. After about an hour just pulling on the lines and trying to understand their individual proposes I decided the take down the mast. Needless to say this was a little concerning not having a spotter, but I figured I would just move slow and easy. After lifting the mast up I was able to handle the weight and slowly bring it down while I walked backwards and turned around. Before I knew it the mast was back in its cradle. Piece of cake and no steps or extra fixtures, Geoff does have a great design with this pivoting mast.
A few more photos sent to Geoff of tangled lines, and he already provided a response. Plan is to schedule a live video meeting and he will walk me thought the balance of steps "real time". The weather is turning (sunny and 70 degrees yesterday) to cool temperatures and rain so it doesn't look good the next week to run the boat with the electric motor (I can't win).
A few pictures for fun

 

[N4061]

Taylor Made Fenders

For the past 15 years we have used Taylor Made Big B Fenders for all our trawlers with good success. When I think about 45,000lbs of boat pushing up against them I actually surprised just how well they held up. If memory serves me correctly, we only replaced one or two due to complete loss of air. Fast forward to the little Sandpiper and our trip to West Marine ended up with two of the smallest fenders of the same brand and style (over kill - yes).

After filling them up with air and leaving them sit for a week while the boat is still in dry dock (OK, my garage) I went to attach the dock lines and realized both fenders were depleted of air. Strange I thought to myself as I took out the hand pump and filled them both, but this time applied the water test near the air fill and sure enough, I could hear and see the leaks on both. Wow, "two out of two" is surprising considering these are not cheap. So off to West Marine for an exchange only to find one black fender in the store which was also low on air. The attendant offered to fill it up and after doing so I listened closely and sure enough could hear the air seeping out. I told the attendant it appears they received a bad lot and need to ship them all back.

Curious if others have had similar experience with this brand of fenders or was this a just the exception?

So, Christmas morning brought me to the laptop and shopping for boating stuff including fenders in dark blue or black. After a little searching and remeasuring the actual length of fender required for the Sandpiper, I realized even the smallest Taylor Made fenders were going to touch the water which is not very "professional" looking so maybe it was a good thing I returned them. Searching the net, I found a cool nautical looking fender covered in rope which I thought "would complement the Downeast style / look of the boat" and decided to splurge a little and purchase a set from Norway. Not cheap but if they look as good in person as the photo and work (don't scratch the hull) I will be pleased. If they should scratch, then they will end becoming artwork and be hung up above the boat in the garage and its back to plastic....

John

 

[jimdavi]

Had several recent Taylor made failures. Got tired of searching for leaked. 4ea bad in last year. Not more than 2 years old. Switched to PYI fender tech. Very happy.

 

[N4061]

Second Dry Run

Since the weather is not cooperating this week (cool, breezy and periodical rain) I decided to use it to my advantage and become more acquainted with the new boat and all those dang lines. My procedure includes moving two cars out of the garage before moving the boat / trailer by hand onto the driveway just clearing the house roof line. With both wheels chocked and the three-step ladder set up alongside the boat it was time to turn on the music (what's boating without some good music) and start studying all the lines. After a while I felt everything was untangled and decided to lift up the mast. First try didn't work since I still had a "transport piece of rope" tied to the smaller pole. Once untied the mast went up without any problem (starting to feel comfortable with this process). With the mast up I started to really understand which lines activated which poles. Doing this without the sails installed turned out to benefit me by provide a clear view. After a while I decided to lower the mast and made the mistake of straddling the lines facing forward. With the mast raised up and ready to come down I felt the weight and realized having to turn sideways while holding the mast was not going to be easy, but I was successful. Lesson learned is always remain alongside the mast and use my arms to lift and lower.

With the mast secured in its cradle I decided to open up one of the large bags that came with the boat and stowed two different canvas coverings. I took out the boom / sail cover and unrolled it along the boat. This cover offers a very nice custom fit and excellent durable quality. While I was able to get the cover on (most the way) I need to look at a few videos to really understand the process and how to secure it in place. Again, too many hooks and bungy cords and metal clips.

It felt good to "play" with the boat again and sit near the motor controls and the rudder tiller. The tiller is a beautiful solid piece of varnished, carved wood about 4' long. It fits through a small oval hole in the transom into two large brass clips firmly mounted to the rudder. Again, well built for a 16' boat. It appears from this position I will have excellent access to everything required to motor inside the harbors and bays with a clear view forward.

Thursday weather is looking a little better, upper 50's and no rain (I can't believe we are in "Sunny San Diego") and I'm so anxious to get the boat in the water I may take her out. I did not want Mary's first time on the boat to be in weather like this for fear this could become her last time to "giving it a try" so I need to think about this a little more. More to follow soon....

John

 

[N4061]

Registration Day

Yesterday I decided to visit DMV and register the boat and trailer now that the repairs are completed. Anyone who has delt with California DMV knows how difficult it can be. Upon arriving and waiting for my number to be called I noticed everyone was wearing a mask and the lobby was only about 75% full. Once called to the window I started with the trailer (paperwork already fille out) and after 30 minutes was told to return with the trailer for an inspection. I tried to use a few photographs of the trailer both with the boat on and off but no luck. Appears this is yet another new California requirement were even a single axle boat trailer requires DMV inspection. They had no problem taking my money in advance and will let me decide when I wanted to return. Next up was the boat which took on issues of its own. Appears California DMV computer doesn't recognize the boat Hull ID number. Even with a photo of the hull I was told something was wrong. I noticed the stamped "I" appeared slightly blurred and could have been reworked to show it as a number "1" which worked in the computer. Since Geoff filled out the paperwork using the "I" there was nothing I could do except wait to discuss this with him next week. Needless to say, even the simplest of administrative tasks can be frustrating.

Weather forecast for the weekend is sunshine but still cool (64 degrees) for Mary and Sailor Blue but I'm leaning towards launching the boat for the first time in Oceanside Harbor and check out the Torqeedo OB (no sails). More to follow soon.

John

 

[N4061]

Mast up #3

Yesterday was the end of two long weeks of rain (on and off) and cooler temperatures which prevented me from taking the boat out but did provide me more time to get familiar with it. Since it was still cool outside I decided keep the garage door closed and apply a coat of wax to the dark blue hull before putting her in the water. One good thing about a new boat is maintenance can be easier when you start immediately. I'm using Meguires Boat Wax this time and the finish is mirror like against the Awlgrip paint. It's nice to be able to mess around with a dark color hull for a change but not something I would do on a larger boat that is docked.

With skies clearing and a strong breeze I decide to raise the mast for a third time and see what if any difference the breeze would make. After pulling the boat out of the garage onto the driveway I removed the mast / sail cover, straightened all the lines and attached the forward halyard which is a cable that attaches from the top of the mast to a fitting at the bow. My first attempt at raising the mast did not work as I had one halyard still tied down. After releasing it the mast went up easy until it was 95 degrees and the pivot point did not want to set into place. After playing with it she went into position. It appears the Teflon coated pivot section needs some lubrication which is something Geoff mentioned should be performed. With the mast up it was time to attach the forstay (?) or what I call the cable (see photo). Again, I was impressed with the heavy construction and quality finish of the fittings. After a while of playing around and listening to some good music (DJ La Flex and some new Euro Dance Music, no Jimmy Buffett today) it was time to lower the mast which I still struggle with. The tight fit made lifting the mast difficult and finding the perfect position for my feet remains challenging, but everything worked out OK. As I build my upper body strength over then couple of months (I order a home gym) lifting and lowering the mast should not be an issue at all. Geoff's design is very user friendly.

Pushing the 1,400lb boat and trailer back into the garage is another work out and makes me glade I didn't purchase the 18' (which would not fit) since it weighs an additional 1,000lbs. Later that evening my body reminded me that just messing around with this little boat is a workout within itself. Still looking for that weather window to get her out for the first time. With Mary reminding me she doesn't do 60-degree temperatures I may be going solo. All fun and enjoying this new journey.

John T.

 

[BandB]

Yesterday was the end of two long weeks of rain (on and off) and cooler temperatures which prevented me from taking the boat out but did provide me more time to get familiar with it. Since it was still cool outside I decided keep the garage door closed and apply a coat of wax to the dark blue hull before putting her in the water. One good thing about a new boat is maintenance can be easier when you start immediately. I'm using Meguires Boat Wax this time and the finish is mirror like against the Awlgrip paint. It's nice to be able to mess around with a dark color hull for a change but not something I would do on a larger boat that is docked.

.

Why are you waxing Awlgrip?

https://www.awlgrip.com/support/maintaining-an-awlgrip-finish

 

[N4061]

Waxing

Why are you waxing Awlgrip?

https://www.awlgrip.com/support/maintaining-an-awlgrip-finish

Reason I "believe" I can get away with waxing is the boat will be stored in the garage which will help prevent the wax from breaking down and should last for a long time. Example is my wife's sports car which is now five years old, has only 4K miles (she will not drive it alone) and is stored under cover in the garage. I waxed it once within the first few months of buying it and still feels smooth as glass. So much the dang car cover keeps sliding off.

Wax breakdown is the only real concern with Awlgrip paint, and it will not hurt the paint. It just adds work if you let it get away from you, so I just need to monitor it. If additional coats of wax are required, then I will apply since this this only a 16' foot boat. Again, I would not try this with a larger boat docked in the water.

John

 

[backinblue]

But still, why wax, why not Awlcare or similar? BTW, on a separate note, a slippery waxed hull actually slows it down, counter-intuititve I know. I'm not saying a dirty hull is faster than a clean one, only that the waxed finish is slower than the unwaxed clean finish. I can't say if that is also true of Awlcare or other sealants, but maybe somone here knows better.

 

[Bacchus]

I agree with NOT using wax. I believe the issue is with yellowing and build up if not stripped when redone. I have switched to polymers on everything wher I used wax previously. That's what Awlxare is and it works and lasts better than wax.
My feeling is most any polymer will work but Awlcare isxEZ on & off and price isn't all that bad for as far as it goes.

 

[BandB]

Reason I "believe" I can get away with waxing is the boat will be stored in the garage which will help prevent the wax from breaking down and should last for a long time. Example is my wife's sports car which is now five years old, has only 4K miles (she will not drive it alone) and is stored under cover in the garage. I waxed it once within the first few months of buying it and still feels smooth as glass. So much the dang car cover keeps sliding off.

Wax breakdown is the only real concern with Awlgrip paint, and it will not hurt the paint. It just adds work if you let it get away from you, so I just need to monitor it. If additional coats of wax are required, then I will apply since this this only a 16' foot boat. Again, I would not try this with a larger boat docked in the water.

John

I understand your logic. Still I'd use Awlcare and not wax.

If you're going to wax, I think you chose as mild as possible so shouldn't be problematic.

Still, one of the selling points of Awlgrip is that it doesn't need waxing. Saves a lot of periodic effort.

 

[N4061]

Great Input

I agree with NOT using wax. I believe the issue is with yellowing and build up if not stripped when redone. I have switched to polymers on everything wher I used wax previously. That's what Awlxare is and it works and lasts better than wax.
My feeling is most any polymer will work but Awlcare isxEZ on & off and price isn't all that bad for as far as it goes.

Appreciate the input from everyone. Should have looked into this a little closer and will definitely explore Awlcare product moving forward. Since the hull bottom has "bottom paint" from the factory no waxing required. I originally didn't plan on bottom paint but when I think about how fast (one week) bottom growth grew on our Gig Harbor 10' Dingy I figured bottom paint makes sense since we may decide to leave the boat in the harbor for a week or month during the summer. The color contrast also adds a nice touch from an aesthetics perspective.

John

 

[Peter B]

But still, why wax, why not Awlcare or similar? BTW, on a separate note, a slippery waxed hull actually slows it down, counter-intuititve I know. I'm not saying a dirty hull is faster than a clean one, only that the waxed finish is slower than the unwaxed clean finish. I can't say if that is also true of Awlcare or other sealants, but maybe somone here knows better.

This is probably true, and an interesting issue. I think it comes back to the concept of drag, with maximum drag being a smooth surface. Hence the use of 'slicks' in motor-racing. Grips the road better than treaded tyres.

The opposite effect is found in the rough skin of a shark. Very fine ridges create a rough surface, that does not grip the water like a smooth surface would. Also in the reduced wind resistance in the turbulence, which translates to the air not gripping the following vehicle as much, and the idea of getting a 'tow' in motor-racing.

Dennis Connor took advantage of this principle when in desperation, because Stars and Stripes was basically a bit slow, except in high winds, coated his hull in A/C at Fremantle, Australia, in 1987, with a 3M product that had multiple small dimples in the surface. It is thought this move may well have contributed to his ultimately managing to squeak through to the last elimination series in Fremantle, and by the finals the weather had strengthened sufficiently to favour its heavy weather performance, which won the day.

Sorry, thread hijack over, but it is an interesting phenomenon, because it is counter-intuitive, isn't it John..?

 

[FF]

If the turnbuckle posted is chrome on bronze great!

If it is all SS beware that SS can gall, when tightened hard and seize .

Lubrication can help , but some bronze parts are the only cure.

 

[backinblue]

This is probably true, and an interesting issue. I think it comes back to the concept of drag, with maximum drag being a smooth surface. Hence the use of 'slicks' in motor-racing. Grips the road better than treaded tyres.

The opposite effect is found in the rough skin of a shark. Very fine ridges create a rough surface, that does not grip the water like a smooth surface would. Also in the reduced wind resistance in the turbulence, which translates to the air not gripping the following vehicle as much, and the idea of getting a 'tow' in motor-racing.

Dennis Connor took advantage of this principle when in desperation, because Stars and Stripes was basically a bit slow, except in high winds, coated his hull in A/C at Fremantle, Australia, in 1987, with a 3M product that had multiple small dimples in the surface. It is thought this move may well have contributed to his ultimately managing to squeak through to the last elimination series in Fremantle, and by the finals the weather had strengthened sufficiently to favour its heavy weather performance, which won the day.

Sorry, thread hijack over, but it is an interesting phenomenon, because it is counter-intuitive, isn't it John..?

Thanks, I remember the stars and stripes example and that is when I think I first became aware of the phenomenon. Yes, quite counterintuitive, but there is plenty of info online if you google it. I'll leave it there as to not further hijack the thread.

 

[backinblue]

I agree with NOT using wax. I believe the issue is with yellowing and build up if not stripped when redone. I have switched to polymers on everything wher I used wax previously. That's what Awlxare is and it works and lasts better than wax.
My feeling is most any polymer will work but Awlcare isxEZ on & off and price isn't all that bad for as far as it goes.

Thanks Bacchus. I agree that Awlcare looks expensive but does go a long way. I know it says to apply and remove by hand, but I've found that a soft random orbital buffer works well and saves some time and effort. It's really pretty gentle and I don't see it doing any harm vs. hand-waxing.

 

[Bacchus]

Thanks Bacchus. I agree that Awlcare looks expensive but does go a long way. I know it says to apply and remove by hand, but I've found that a soft random orbital buffer works well and saves some time and effort. It's really pretty gentle and I don't see it doing any harm vs. hand-waxing.

I have often pondered the Awlgrip recommendations of hand vs machine application. I dont understand the need and tend to agree with you.
I have only used my DA once, the first season I owned Bacchus and before I started learning more about painted hulls and Awlgrip / Awlcraft.
I am guessing the machine may do more damage than hand if there is any dirt, contaminants on the surface. Washing alone really doesn't get pristine surfaces and any car buff (pun unintended) appreciates the use of chemical solutions, compounds, polishes and clay for surface prep... most of which Awlgrip cautions against.
Even with all of the above I may join you with using my DA for the annual hull "waxing".
I have used a fairly new 303 Graphene Nano coating on a daily driver as an experiment. I wondered about using it on my painted hull as I was working on the car. It went on and came off very easy by hand and shine and water beading beat anything I've used to date. Surface cleaning & prep would be my question with the Awlcraft. I used my DA and mild compound / polish on the car. I may just do a small section as an experiment this spring... the stern will likely be my 1st step.

 

[backinblue]

Sorry Bacchus, what is a DA? After a few years of hand applying Awlcare I decided my buffer would be no more damaging than applying and removing by hand. This fall I used my buffer for both application and removal. It's more of a vibration than a rotating pad and I wouldn't use a circular buffer like on a drill as I think that could burn or damage the paint. The orbital buffer is quite gentle and saves a lot of work. I also use it for waxing the topsides. On my cars I have started using a ceramic spray coating. I still do that by hand because it's so easy and you only do a small area at a time. FWIW this is the buffer I currently use:

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-10PMC-10...d=1641133339&sprefix=wen+buffer,aps,66&sr=8-2

 

[Bacchus]

My apologies... DA is dual action (vs rotary) and I agree is much safer than a straight rotary machine. I have had a few over the years but have settled on a Flex DA that has both rotation and oscillation direct powered. That is different than many/ most that have an off center weight that causes the oscillation. In that style when pressure is applied the oscillation slows and the machine acts more like a rotary.
The reviews I read when weighing my options, claimed the Flex works nearly as fast as a rotary while providing the forgiveness of the DA.

I'm curious what pads you used for application and removal?
That's a whole area of expertise that has baffled me at times. So many choices and some brands use different systems (colors) to designate various grades, aggressiveness, etc.

 

[backinblue]

No worries. My buffer has a foam rubber pad premanently attached. For application I use their "application" cover which is basically terry cloth but with a backing that doesn't allow the "wax" to permeate to the foam rubber pad. In the past I've used other smooth applicator covers but then the foam rubber gets moist as well. For removal I use a microfiber cover. So far so good, and I did not do a lot of hull cleaning first so any water spots, etc, just buffed out. I try to do it at haulout in the fall and again before launch in the spring.

 

[N4061]

Getting Back On Point

Great discussion on paint and polishing which is greatly appreciated. Turning back towards the next chapter on this journey, this weekend was a bust related to launching the Sandpiper and experiencing time on the water. The weather turned a little breezy and cooler than forecasted which equals "no go" for Mary and being she is warming up to time back on the water and sailing I do not want to ruin it by forcing her first day out in less than desirable weather.

The weekend was not total bust since we purchased the anchor and a few spare cotter pins at West Marine and silicone spray for the mast hinge along with a boat / trailer tie down strap at Walmart. At this point we have everything required for our first launch. Today we tried out the new hand held VHF radio down at Oceanside Harbor as we watched what appeared to be a "new to sailing" couple struggle with sailing up wind. Just watching them I was able to learn a few things which I hope helps me.

More to follow soon...

 

[N4061]

Turnbuckle

If the turnbuckle posted is chrome on bronze great!

If it is all SS beware that SS can gall, when tightened hard and seize .

Lubrication can help , but some bronze parts are the only cure.

Interesting observation you made regarding the turnbuckle and cotter pins. For some reason (I still need to talk with Geoff at Marshall Marine) one of the three cotter pins appears for be brass and the other two are soft steel. Why would they mix them up?

John

 

[KnotYet]

Interesting observation you made regarding the turnbuckle and cotter pins. For some reason (I still need to talk with Geoff at Marshall Marine) one of the three cotter pins appears for be brass and the other two are soft steel. Why would they mix them up?

John

The soft steel cotter pins are probably stainless steel and are appropriate to use.
They may hold up better than the brass, in fact. Always have a few spares handy.

All-stainless turnbuckles are the norm nowadays and can be kept from galling with anti-seize.

 

[Blues]

Get some decent sailing gloves and go sailing, don’t worry about this other stuff. You’re entering a different universe, I’d pop for some private lessons in your own boat ( dinghy sailing lessons ).

 

[N4061]

Gloves ??

Get some decent sailing gloves and go sailing, don’t worry about this other stuff. You’re entering a different universe, I’d pop for some private lessons in your own boat ( dinghy sailing lessons ).

We have definitely crossed into uncharted waters when I hear about buying gloves?? This was not on my shopping list but I do understand how they would be beneficial and will check them out next time. At least no one has suggested a pair of rubber boots or raingear (yet).

Checked on the life vests we kept after selling the last boat (H38E) and the cartridges still show green (good) but I have to wonder just how long they last and will the vests inflate if / when we need them? If anyone has any knowledge on this subject, please share.

On a more positive note, the weather gods appear to be recalling that we live in San Diego and the forecast for Thursday is low 70's at the house and mid 60's on the water. My wife even told me I should take the day off work and launch the boat. Then she said she wants to go with me! This is big news since she is done boating and said it would have to be hot and sunny for her to go out in the Sandpiper. She hates cold weather (even the 60's). My dream of the next boat may just be starting to warm up. Let's hope the weather holds and everything goes smooth. No plan to take Sailor Blue (our Chihuahua) on this trip (less stress for us both) as I plan for a one-hour harbor cruise with the mast up (no sails) under power. Almost like a trawler!

John