Question on a decor fabric/leather

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paulga

Guru
Joined
May 28, 2018
Messages
1,316
Location
United States
Vessel Name
DD
Vessel Make
Marine Trader Sundeck 40'
There is a leather like piece that covers wire holes at the base of the arch. The piece has worn out. What material could be used to replace it?

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You could easily use either Stamoid or Sunbrella. Sunbrella is a woven product so it has a texture to it. Stamoid is a smooth product. They both will survive well in UV. I would use them over a vinyl product since the vinyl probably won’t last as long outside.
 
I am going to agree with Comodave on this. I can’t believe a PO did such a hack job but now that it’s done a simple sunbrella cover is probably the way to go. Instead of screwing it in place I would install snaps, it will look a little more professional.
 
I am going to agree with Comodave on this. I can’t believe a PO did such a hack job but now that it’s done a simple sunbrella cover is probably the way to go. Instead of screwing it in place I would install snaps, it will look a little more professional.
Thanks for the snap.
Now I can buy that press n snap tool.
Speaking of, is the same tool used to "staple" stamoid or clear vinyl to a keder? What "staples" or rivets are used?

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I have only seen a keder sewn on. In cases were we have attached Makrolon too thick to sew, we have used rivets with aluminum washers. This has worked well.
 
I have only seen a keder sewn on. In cases were we have attached Makrolon too thick to sew, we have used rivets with aluminum washers. This has worked well.
I have seen the "rivets" that I mentioned used on my boat somewhere but cannot find it now.
Could you add a link or picture how the rivets are installed in your application?
 
I sew the keder to the canvas or vinyl. I use a Sailrite machine with Tenara thread.
 
I sew the keder to the canvas or vinyl. I use a Sailrite machine with Tenara thread.
Thanks again.
You told me last year in this post so I know your method.
This may be the rivets I want to use to fix clear vinyl to the keder track. Is it a bad idea?
 
A stainless tube but, the glass has already been hacked in the wrong place.

The tube could have been done to look like a grab rail.
 
Thanks again.
You told me last year in this post so I know your method.
This may be the rivets I want to use to fix clear vinyl to the keder track. Is it a bad idea?
I have not used them and most likely would not. They say they are not load bearing. The canvas will be up during wind storms and the stresses can be significant. The rivets will be spaced apart so the sections in between will not be supported. With sewing the whole lenght is supported.
 
First, I support sewing. If I were to rivet, I would use aluminum pop rivets with aluminum washers to spread the load, spacing would be every two to three inches. Unfortunately, you would still need to do some sewing to hide the rivets. This is why I only recommend them when material is too thick to sew.
 
I have never had fabric too thick to sew. My machine will go through 8 layers of Sunbrella, maybe more but I have only tried 8.
 
That’s a really unfortunate situation. Normally there would be an access plate in the arch and a hidden pathway into the boat. I might consider making a teak box trim to cover that.
Or, put in a pair of access plates and pull the wires back and fix the holes. It would depend on how many other needs the boat had.
 
I have never had fabric too thick to sew. My machine will go through 8 layers of Sunbrella, maybe more but I have only tried 8.
It won’t go through 1/16” Makrolon. I do agree with you, it’s rare to do something other than sewing.
 
If there is enough slack in the little wires you could cut a slot up to the big hole, move the little wires there, plate off the bottom hole, remove, fill and paint over the screw holes and use a split piece of tubing to cover the wires and jam the ends into the holes.
 
That’s a really unfortunate situation. Normally there would be an access plate in the arch and a hidden pathway into the boat. I might consider making a teak box trim to cover that.
Or, put in a pair of access plates and pull the wires back and fix the holes. It would depend on how many other needs the boat had.

There is an access plate on each side and on the top of the arch.

So the previous retrofit took a shortcut by drilling those holes rather than following the proper passage

is the hidden path through the bottom of the arch?

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If there is enough slack in the little wires you could cut a slot up to the big hole, move the little wires there, plate off the bottom hole, remove, fill and paint over the screw holes and use a split piece of tubing to cover the wires and jam the ends into the holes.
Thanks.
That part does not bother me and it has been that way for decades.
 
I have not used them and most likely would not. They say they are not load bearing. The canvas will be up during wind storms and the stresses can be significant. The rivets will be spaced apart so the sections in between will not be supported. With sewing the whole lenght is supported.
The vinyl will be affixed from the inner side of the track, so it can still keep the water outside with the rivets spaced 1 ft or so apart. I remember the idea was the lower edge of the vinyl will be snapped to the cabin wall so it doesn't flap in winds.
 
There is an access plate on each side and on the top of the arch.

So the previous retrofit took a shortcut by drilling those holes rather than following the proper passage

is the hidden path through the bottom of the arch?

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Yes it is. If you folded the arch down you’d see the wire passage.
Since there’s access plates installed, I can only surmise that there must not be much room available in there, and they took the easy way.
 
Yes it is. If you folded the arch down you’d see the wire passage.
Since there’s access plates installed, I can only surmise that there must not be much room available in there, and they took the easy way.
the arch on this boat is through bolted so it doesn't fold.

on the portside, the wires are routed through a hole at the bottom of the arch, then down eventually into the bilge. here the access to the inside is covered by a wood piece that is epoxied in place. my endocam doesn't fit into the opening. I cannot hope a fish tape can auto wind itself through the unobservable path into the bilge. How to add a wire in this path?

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Try a vacuum cleaner on the exposed hole. If you feel air movement on the inside , you might get lucky with a cotton ball & string
 
Try a vacuum cleaner on the exposed hole. If you feel air movement on the inside , you might get lucky with a cotton ball & string
Thanks for the idea.
An industry air compressor may have enough cfm to carry a string through
 
Why not to made a piece of wood that would nicely blend with the wingow frame. Would be nicer than a piece of fabric that would look like a fly on the soup.

L
 
Why not to made a piece of wood that would nicely blend with the wingow frame. Would be nicer than a piece of fabric that would look like a fly on the soup.

L
The new wood piece needs to have some contours that I don't know what shape fits there. Also I don't have the facility to carve the special shapes out.
 

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