racor drain fitting leaking

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Unscrew the four screws from the bottom and pull the unit up leaving the mounting ring in place?

the racor store confirmed the top section is supposed to be lifted up, then the bowl itself lifted from the bracket. it's an obsolete model.

in my setup, the top body cannot be lifted as it's held by the by pass plumbing. if I unscrew the bracket, the bracket should become the bowl ring to be separated from below

but the separation might take some effort. during this time the racor will be held only by the bypass plumbing. Are those connections robust to withhold the potential twisting in the process?
 
it was a chore to get this clear bowl replaced. 3/4 of the time were fighting with the bolts and nuts on the bracket. i had to remove 3 bolts and loosen the 4th bolt enough so this twin can rotate to have enough clearance to remove the top section and lift the bowl out.

hopefully this is the end of the project.

I didn't tighten the brass valve up to 30 in lbs, didn't tighten the small bowl plug to 15 in lbs either. these torques feel too far and risk cracking the ports.

Image_20240327011340.jpg

Image_20240327011330.jpg
 
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it was a chore to get this clear bowl replaced. 3/4 of the time were fighting with the bolts and nuts on the bracket. i had to remove 3 bolts and loosen the 4th bolt enough so this twin can rotate to have enough clearance to remove the top section and lift the bowl out.

hopefully this is the end of the project.

I didn't tighten the brass valve up to 30 in lbs, didn't tighten the small bowl plug to 15 in lbs either. these torques feel too far and risk cracking the ports.

View attachment 146667

View attachment 146668

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could you post the link to buy that valve? vendor.item #

thanks
 
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great
thanks

I also replaced the check ball and seal. All from racorstore.

The same valve is also available on Amazon rk 11-1910, the thread is 7/8, fits 500ma and 500fg < 2002
 
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I also replaced the check ball and seal. All from racorstore.

The same valve is also available on Amazon rk 11-1910, the thread is 7/8, fits 500ma and 500fg < 2002

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thank you very much.


Did you solve your battery charger issue?
 
The charger looks still working fine
I was wondering if I should follow a charging routine instead of leaving it on always

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thank you very much.


Did you solve your battery charger issue?
 
Update:
it has been no leak for 3 months, I inspected the bilge every week, but last weekend I found a new leak has developed at a coupler piece just below the quarter turn valve. I wiped it clean on Sunday, but the leak shows up again today. what's the reason that caused the leak to start? I haven't run the engine or genny since mid April.

two changes since it was good:
i closed the valve on the connection pipe b/t the two fuel tanks in May (to prevent more fuel concentrating to the port side)
it became extremely hot in June. air in the fuel hoses expands, so the fuel under pressure punctured a hole in the thread dope? but he thread dope still looks in good shape.

Image_20240709233415.jpg


Image_20240709233434.jpg


Image_20240709233442.jpg


Here's the overall view (previously taken picture)

Screenshot_2024-01-21-10-03-47-06_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg
 
The top of this T connection where you indicated the point of leak looks to be cross threaded and not fully seated. The connection is not parallel. That means the pipe dope kept it from leaking until you turned the valve above the leak.

1720617931241.png
 
The top of this T connection where you indicated the point of leak looks to be cross threaded and not fully seated. The connection is not parallel. That means the pipe dope kept it from leaking until you turned the valve above the leak.

View attachment 156348
cross threaded and not fully seated - this is too dire, if so it could not have worked for so many years. I always turn the valve handle slowly using both hands. it's the first time that leak happens at that connection
 
I just had my boat surveyed and was told that the clear bowls under the Racor 500MA do not comply with the heat shield protection required.

All individual components of the fuel system, as installed in the boat, shall be capable of withstanding a 2-1/2 minute exposure to free burning fuel (N-Heptane), or No. 2 diesel fuel without leakage, when tested in accordance with Title 33 CFR, Section 183.590, Fire Test.

These filters will not meet Coast Guard or ABYC standards without the heat shield installed.
I just ordered 3 of them at ~$125 each
 
I just had my boat surveyed and was told that the clear bowls under the Racor 500MA do not comply with the heat shield protection required.

All individual components of the fuel system, as installed in the boat, shall be capable of withstanding a 2-1/2 minute exposure to free burning fuel (N-Heptane), or No. 2 diesel fuel without leakage, when tested in accordance with Title 33 CFR, Section 183.590, Fire Test.

These filters will not meet Coast Guard or ABYC standards without the heat shield installed.
I just ordered 3 of them at ~$125 each
If they are indeed 500MA then they should already have the heat shield on them. The FG series do not have the heat shields. Maybe a PO took the heat shields off???
 
I just had my boat surveyed and was told that the clear bowls under the Racor 500MA do not comply with the heat shield protection required.

All individual components of the fuel system, as installed in the boat, shall be capable of withstanding a 2-1/2 minute exposure to free burning fuel (N-Heptane), or No. 2 diesel fuel without leakage, when tested in accordance with Title 33 CFR, Section 183.590, Fire Test.

These filters will not meet Coast Guard or ABYC standards without the heat shield installed.
I just ordered 3 of them at ~$125 each
i recall the insurance co didn't care about the heat shield thing.
now the concern is the new leak, at that plumbing masterpiece.
I'm still waiting to figure out how to do this one.
the racor leak was no longer a concern.
but if i have to disassemble everything, I may take the opportunity to change both racors to 500ma.
 

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