HeadedToTexas
Guru
The leading contender is the space in the engine room along the forward bulkhead to port of the access from the day head. I virtually never use that entrance despite being optimistic about it early on.
Finally back in the water and the digital thermostat upgrade of my Norcold DE0061 was a success. Still hoping to find a way to calibrate the display, but the new $12 thermostat holds a very tight temperature. Far cry from the original Norcold thermostat that let the temperature swing from 33° to 41°.[/QUOTE
Do you have a link to the thermostat you are using?
Thanks in advance.
Here’s the digital thermostat I am using. There are plenty of options, but I chose this one because it displays in Fahrenheit and includes both set point and current temperature (at the sensor).
Twidec/DC 12V Temperature... https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Temperature-Controller-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B092H3WSZX
Well I thought I had won the refrigerator round. The digital thermostat works great and the fridge holds both refrigerator and freezer compartments in tight control at the right temperature, but now the compressor just stops running at seemingly random times. It will pull the temperature down from 70 to 35 in a little over an hour and hold it there for hours, but at some point the compressor just fails to start. The thermostat is on and calling for it, but the compressor doesn’t start.
I could go through the troubleshooting to figure out which of the handful of components is failing, but I’m about ready to toss this Norcold POS into the dumpster and fit the cabinet for a $270 Magic Chef and move on.
Yep - I finally reached that point with my Norcold. Burned through all my patience chasing around for parts and troubleshooting, with lukewarm results and ridiculous prices. Replaced it with an LG single door 7.0 cf and inverter, nearly identical cabinet size for me. I look back on it now and I'm disgusted at the time and effort I invested.
Thanks guys, I’m done. Ordering Monday. It will take some custom work to get the model I have in mind to fit. Need to create 1.3” in the cabinet. Pending my inspection of an actual unit and where the condenser airflow flows, I’ll get that 1.3” from a combination of removing the adjustable feet and routing grooves in the cabinet floor. The model is a few inches narrower than the N’ercold and that will allow plenty of air to the condenser. More as I know it.
We're happy with the one we have (LG) and it does a great job and sips electricity, but all things being equal -- and fitting the cabinet that closely -- we would have preferred a separate freezer/2-doors.
My pleasure. Believe me, a lot of that great information has flowed to me! Fingers are crossed on the new fridge. Home Depot says it will arrive Monday.
So if the dedicated inverter connects to +12 VDC at my DC refrigerator breaker and -12 VDC at the DC ground bus near the panel, where does the AC ground from the refrigerator power cord find a ground?
So if the dedicated inverter connects to +12 VDC at my DC refrigerator breaker and -12 VDC at the DC ground bus near the panel, where does the AC ground from the refrigerator power cord find a ground?
Umm, the fridge comes with a plug that just plugs into the wall socket. This discussion started when it was pointed out check to make sure the green and white are not bonded inside the fridge. There is no other wiring needed as everything else should already be correct.
You can put a Vitrifrigo in that space (with a bit of room to spare). It's also an 8.1 cu.ft. fridge. I put this one in a few years back and it's been awesome!
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/vit...erator-freezer-black-8-1-cu-ft/dp2600ibd4-f-3