Storm anchoring

[Mambo42]

Thanks PS. Problem I have I can’t see the first few feet of the rode that’s above the water from either helm station. Can’t see it well even from the flybridge. So see it’s probably practical to run at low rpm to reduce strain somewhat but not beyond that. Even in serious weather intensity varies quite a bit. So it seems difficult to correctly time throttle adjustments if you can’t see what’s going on. Thoughts?

I understand your problem, I have the same, cannot see anything of the anchor chain when I am on the fly bridge. In fact I cannot even see the chain unless I go to the bow and look down to it.
So for that matter I need to make sure that I have enough 'weight' out once the anchor is on the ground.
In another topic I have explained my way of anchoring. I simply calculate the forces that the wind will put on the frontal part of the boat (waterline up to fly bridge) and I need to make sure I have more than that in available counterforce in the water.
As a matter of precaution I always add 2 Bft to the forecasted wind and the waves that go with that wind. Then that is the amount of chain I will throw into the water. And yes we always have 7 : 1, but most of the time 10 : 1 or 20 : 1 (shallow water) in the area where we sail.
Only once we have dragged so far and that was when I went for the advertised 5 : 1 scope when wind and waves picked up at night. That was not fun and since that time I calculate how much to throw out, never dragged again, but I do keep a watch.h
Indeed I have a back up on the snubber. My snubber is usually 20 mm line with a stainless steel hook. However that line can break and then all the forces will be on the windlass, cannot have that happening. So for that matter I have a back up snubber, which will give me time to start the engines and get ready in case we start dragging.
We have anchored in 7 and 8 Bft for 5 days straight, so far no problems, no dragging, but I won't say never again.

We also use Anchor Pro, an app for anchoring, but it has it's flaws, need to get used to it. You can set the anchor at the exact location where the anchor is and then define a perimeter around that spot. However, you need to keep a couple things in mind.
First is the location of the device with the app. If it is on the bow the location is different than if you have it in the pilot house or even on the stern. So you have to add those meters.
Second is the accuracy of the device you are using. I have a tablet (samsung) and that one shows 10 mtr accuracy on the GPS. Needless to say that thing will set off the anchor alarm quite regularly.
I also have a phone which has a 1 to 2 mtr accuracy and there I can set the perimeter much closer.
So when the alarm goes off on the tablet I first check with the phone and all of the time that one will tell me we have not moved.
Why do I have 2 devices with an anchor alarm ? Because one may fail and then at least i have a back up. Next to that I also write down the exact location of the anchor, so I can always reset the app if need be.

 

[PierreR]

Yup,Tstorms are the bear. Actually even when on sailboats have felt more comfortable under power than anchored when coastal and in close quarters.

I never feel comfortable in a sailboat in a T storm. Been hit three times by lightening. Last time knocked me out cold.

 

[Hippocampus]

Appreciate post#31. Logical thinking.
We always use 2 snubbers. Find it decreases hunting and gives a safety margin.
Run an anchoring app on the iPad and iPhone but have also found just putting a waypoint right at your stern helpful. Gives you immediate feedback if you’re dragging as you’re assessing the set. Prefer having the anchoring apps to the mfd to sound alarms.

Seems until we have more experience with this boat best I can do is have one of us go to the bow and look. So we’ll get all set up and confirm a good set. Then if conditions deteriorate on us one will look as the other varies rpm. Hopefully that will allow us to figure out what the correct rpm is to lessen load but not have the rode ever go slack.