Understanding Racor Indicator Gauge

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......I can't imagine anything being worth forfeiting the clear sediment bowl in a primary filter...... I actually like Fleetguard filters, I'm just not ready to give up the ease of replacement Racor Turbines cartridges, which can be done in less tan a minute if necessary, and the ability to flip a valve and be on a clean filter in seconds,
That's the whole point of Racor filters! Seeing (the clear bowl) potential problems to come, ease of actually replacing the filter element and simply "flipping" a valve in a seaway to keep the engine(s) running! A spin on isn't nearly as fast as flipping a valve & getting out of a ER in a nasty sea! The advantages of Racors are not whether or not they filter better than FleetGuards, the advatages are simply viewing the condition of your fuel early and changing the filters fast and easy!
 
That's the whole point of Racor filters! Seeing (the clear bowl) potential problems to come, ease of actually replacing the filter element and simply "flipping" a valve in a seaway to keep the engine(s) running! A spin on isn't nearly as fast as flipping a valve & getting out of a ER in a nasty sea! The advantages of Racors are not whether or not they filter better than FleetGuards, the advatages are simply viewing the condition of your fuel early and changing the filters fast and easy!

2 fleetguard filters tied with the same valve design and a vaccuum gauge allows you to see the problem as it developes and flip the valve whenever you choose.
I have had both and changing a spin on filter is much faster and has less likelihood of problems then any Racor cartridge filter we had.
 
Steve
Tony's aversion aside, millions of new diesels per year are equipped without Racor turbine filters. Off highway trucks, tractors, dozers, gensets and on highway cars, trucks, motor homes and buses - these applications all use spin ons.

The thought of a Racor under the hood in dust and dirt not to mention very tight quarters is not pleasant. Sure, in a large yacht ER where fuel polishing is being utilized throw in some Racors to allow visuals to satisfy those that need to see what a filter is doing in addition to measuring it.

I was just reading a Cummins publication on fuel filtering for large diesels. High pressure fuel systems and the important need for multiple stages of industrial design spin ons was discussed with no mention of plastic bowl Racors.

Full disclosure, I have Racors. When I asked the builder why, he said that is what the buying public expects. It would seem old habits die hard in our very small industry. Lastly, spin ons are the choice for marine fuel leaving the shore tanks, there must be a reason.

Sunchaser, with respect, because this is a useful debate, the reason many of these application use spin ons is they are cheaper... I'm not saying they don't get the job done, but they don't offer advantages over a Racor Turbine, again IMO, other than cost. Tony's design for twin spin ons does hold more dirt than a single Racor 900, for less money.

The reason spin ons are on dispensing pumps is flow rate, not greater efficiency.

The reason Cummins never mentions Racor...Cummins owns Fleetguard.

For those with an aversion to the Racor plastic bowl, Racor offers a solid aluminum bowl, it's required for CE and ABS builds. However, using one forfeits one of the Racor's greatest attributes, being able to see what's going on inside the filter housing.

In over the road and excavating applications, yes, a Racor encrusted with dirt and salt would be problematic, spin ons make sense since you toss the whole thing with each change. Not an issue in a marine engine room. I did install a Racor 500 in my last Ford F250 diesel, it fit under the hood.

"What the buying public expects", that's a terrible answer, and that builder would do well to educate himself on the details of primary fuel filtration. While using Racor Turbine filters in marine applications may be a "habit" for some, it's one born of positive results, it's a proven technique for achieving very good filtration.

With a spin on, you could never be alerted to the issues going on in this vessel's tank, shown in the opening photo of this article https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/fuel-filters-simplified-2/

For more on primary fuel filtration, see Primary fuel filtration - Ocean Navigator - Ocean Voyager 2018
 
2 fleetguard filters tied with the same valve design and a vaccuum gauge allows you to see the problem as it developes and flip the valve whenever you choose.
I have had both and changing a spin on filter is much faster and has less likelihood of problems then any Racor cartridge filter we had.

You do have to build the valve assembly yourself, with the associated risk of air or fuel leakage, while it's part of the Racor package, albeit it at a higher cost.

I don't think changing spin ons is faster, not if you have to bleed them. You can manually fill a Racor either by gravity if it is below the level of the fuel in the tank and the tank is bottom fed, as many are, or by pouring fuel into the filter from a jerry jug (I set up a 3 gal outboard tank, dedicated for diesel, with inline filter, and primer bulb, and valve on the end of the hose, with a dust cap, for just this purpose); this is safe provided the filter element is in place. Pre-filling a spin on is strongly discouraged, as unless you are very careful, or your filter comes with a center priming plug to block the center hole, unfiltered fuel can make its way into the center chamber, where it goes to the engine (secondary) filter, without pre-filtration.
 
You do have to build the valve assembly yourself, with the associated risk of air or fuel leakage, while it's part of the Racor package, albeit it at a higher cost.

I don't think changing spin ons is faster, not if you have to bleed them. You can manually fill a Racor either by gravity if it is below the level of the fuel in the tank and the tank is bottom fed, as many are, or by pouring fuel into the filter from a jerry jug (I set up a 3 gal outboard tank, dedicated for diesel, with inline filter, and primer bulb, and valve on the end of the hose, with a dust cap, for just this purpose); this is safe provided the filter element is in place. Pre-filling a spin on is strongly discouraged, as unless you are very careful, or your filter comes with a center priming plug to block the center hole, unfiltered fuel can make its way into the center chamber, where it goes to the engine (secondary) filter, without pre-filtration.

Changing a spin-on is pretty much guaranteed to be a mess in an enclosed yacht engine room where the last thing you want is diesel smell permeating the boat - regular "boat smell" can be bad enough. I can secure the valve to and change a Racor filter with a whole lot more control over the drippings. Who cares if diesel is spilled around some piece of earth moving equipment when its spin-on is changed, but my wife can smell a single drop of diesel spilled in my boat's ER.
 
For those with an aversion to the Racor plastic bowl, Racor offers a solid aluminum bowl, it's required for CE and ABS builds. However, using one forfeits one of the Racor's greatest attributes, being able to see what's going on inside the filter housing.

With a spin on, you could never be alerted to the issues going on in this vessel's tank, shown in the opening photo of this article https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/fuel-filters-simplified-2/

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Steve, with respect, I am at a loss trying to understand why you say one could NEVER be alerted to the issues to which you refer on your website. Would not simply opening the drain on a metal filter reveal the problem? Plus, those Racor bowls become dirty and very difficult to see through requiring disassembly and cleaning and not to mention when, even clean, it seems a bright LED is required to see in the bowl. I have Racor 500's on each of my two generators. I can't see in the bowls worth a damn and I sure am not going to take them apart.

I do have a Racor, with clear bowl, on-engine filter as the final filter. I have attached a picture. I use it not for the clear bowl but for the fact that I can use a 2-micron filter. This is a Lehman 120 engine. The first-in-line on-engine filter is a 3-micron Donaldson.

I do have an advantage in that my fuel tanks are bottom-feeders. Accumulation of sediment and water is much less likely as I understand the physics. In fact, I have drain valves on the two side tanks (360 gal. each) that are one inch lower than the supply line valves. Every year or so, I open the drain valves to see what comes out. Nothing but fuel, no debris, no water, nothing but clear fuel. I rather doubt I will ever have a problem with crud but, if I do, an occasional opening of the bottom drain of the primary filter housing will let me know. Bad load of fuel? Highly unlikely as it always was, but with the advent of ULSD diesel and its associated cleanliness requirements for use in high pressure common rail diesels, a bad load of fuel in North America is extremely unlikely, almost non-existent.

Sure, Racor turbine filter housings work but I just do not see that they have any particular advantage over a spin-on except maybe the clear bowl, the bowl which one needs a bright light to use. Also, for low volume engines such as Lehmans, doesn't the turbine effect not work? Another point, except in the rare, very rare situation of having to change a filter while underway, changing a spin-on filter is way easier than changing a Racor. And, with dual Racors, if both become plugged up underway, now what? A rare occurrence to be sure but, then, plugged filters while underway are rare anyway. Given a choice, I would opt for a Tony Athens sequential filtering system (with vacuum gauges) before a dual Racor any day. One just needs to watch the gauge on the 20-micron first filter to know whether there is crud going on. Then drain once every new fueling to check for water. Done.
 
Also, regarding why Racors are not seen in vehicles, is that we don't expect much growth of "crud" in vehicles which are run all the time. Many of us with boats can go months without running them or at least running them hard. Also, consumer trucks don't carry 700 gallons of fuel that will last them 6-12 months of use. Maybe they carry 30 gallons and are constantly refreshing them.
 
2 fleetguard filters tied with the same valve design and a vaccuum gauge allows you to see the problem as it developes and flip the valve whenever you choose.
I have had both and changing a spin on filter is much faster and has less likelihood of problems then any Racor cartridge filter we had.
In all due respect, Smitty, the only thing the FleetGard set up allows you to"see" is a vacuum gauge, whose needle may be affected by problems other than a dirty filter. The Racor bowl allows you to actually see the contamination whether the vacuum gauge shows it or not. Yes, Racors are more expensive but IMHO they deliver a better product, all things considered.
 
IF for some unknown reason, the authority decides the Racor spin on filters are now recommended/strongly encouraged, your boat, when constructed, complied with all regulations at the time of construction.
 
Anyone no if it’s legal to use my Racor 500 for both my engine and generator primary filter. My generator uses the small Racor with the spin on element and small clear bowl, it’s much more work to change compared to the Racor 500 with the drop in filter element.
 
Anyone no if it’s legal to use my Racor 500 for both my engine and generator primary filter. My generator uses the small Racor with the spin on element and small clear bowl, it’s much more work to change compared to the Racor 500 with the drop in filter element.

Legal?

Let me answer that with that question with another question.
Is it required to have fuel filters?
 
And, with dual Racors, if both become plugged up underway, now what?

Actually the filter brand does not matter as much as the design of the fuel feed system:
1. Properly designed fuel feed system will have to have multi-stage filtering - starting with larger micron filtering first stage and going down to recommended from the engine manufacture x micron rated secondary stage.
2. Properly designed fuel feed system will have the filters properly sized for the the entire engine circulation fuel flow - the engine consumption plus return to tanks flow. this is necessary to ensure the filters are operating properly as per their design, and will provide adequate protection and adequate longevity.
3. Properly designed fuel feed system will allow to switch from one active filtering circuit to another, so the operator can change the plugged filter while the engine is operating on the fresh filter
4. Properly designed fuel feed system will have some way one can check on the quality of fuel passing through the filter. It can be done by draining some fuel or look into a bowl. I personally prefer "looking" rather than "draining".
5. Properly designed fuel feed system will have way to fast fill the filters with fuel after filter change incorporated in the design. could be gravity or electric pump.
6. Last but not least - properly designed fuel feed system will have some way of remote monitoring so the skipper does not get nasty surprise.

I can continue that list to describe reliable further details, but I hope that fellows boaters can see the advantages of "design to succeed" redundancy vs. "I think it will get me there" design. What is reliable fuel system is different to anyone. One's tolerance to deal with problems is different than other's.


If both RACORs become plugged, that means that vessel operator were too negligent to change the first filter when it started to become contaminated to unacceptable level. it takes 10 min or less to change a filter, and on my books this is not "optional"! Never have filter that is plugged left in the fuel system. Change it please...

And the conclusion: the major difference between highway truck and a boat is that on a truck, one can pull the key, step out, and walk home... dare you to try this with a boat!
 
I get the feeling the fuel filter cartridge needs to really gets plugged up to prevent the engine from running.
If there is a history of plugged up fuel filters, you have a real problem with the tanks. Time to investigate the tanks.
 
Legal?

Let me answer that with that question with another question.
Is it required to have fuel filters?

I’m sure the 100 hp diesel engine requires a primary filter, the generator is a Northern Lights 5kw I’m not sure if a dedicated primary filter is required, but as I mentioned it has a small spin on type Racor primary filter installed. Both engines use well under the rating ( total use (+- 3 gph) for the engines Racor 500. This filter element is change semi annually but never dirty because of a cleaned fuel tank and use of a fuel polisher.
I know if I took on contaminated fuel since both filter draw fuel from a lone single tank it would effect both the generator and engine wether or not I have one primary fuel filter or two. I don’t think ABYC would be conserved. But is anyone running more than one engine one a single primary filter ?
Maybe the answer is it is not advisable to have two engine fuel pumps drawing fuel from one primary filter. Anyone out there have two engines served by one primary filter ?
 
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Steve, with respect, I am at a loss trying to understand why you say one could NEVER be alerted to the issues to which you refer on your website. Would not simply opening the drain on a metal filter reveal the problem?

SDA: Much easier to simply look at the bowl than to take periodic samples, you can look at the bowl every time you are in that space.

Plus, those Racor bowls become dirty and very difficult to see through requiring disassembly and cleaning and not to mention when, even clean, it seems a bright LED is required to see in the bowl. I have Racor 500's on each of my two generators. I can't see in the bowls worth a damn and I sure am not going to take them apart.

SDA: Respectfully disagree, I look at a lot of Racor bowls in my work, it's the rare exception to come upon one I can't see through. Agreed, depending upon ER lighting, you may need a flashlight, which isn't much of an inconvenience. Seeing a few inches of water of slimy tendrils in a Racor bowl could be a life saver.

I do have a Racor, with clear bowl, on-engine filter as the final filter. I have attached a picture.

SDA: I don't see it...

I use it not for the clear bowl but for the fact that I can use a 2-micron filter. This is a Lehman 120 engine. The first-in-line on-engine filter is a 3-micron Donaldson.

SDA: The great 2 vs. 10/30 micron primary filter debate had to rear it's head at some point in this discussion;-) What you are doing, and I realize you are not alone, violates almost every engine manufacturer, and Racor's own instructions. Sequetial filtration is more efficient than using a very fine filter as the first step. The subject is covered in detail here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/primary-fuel-filters-2-10-30-microns/
In your case, the 1 micron difference probably will make no difference, engine manufacturers choose the micron rating of their secondary filters based on clearances within the injection system, so yours is 3 microns, that's what Lehman determined was needed for adequate clearance, almost certainly with a 100% or 200% safety margin.

I do have an advantage in that my fuel tanks are bottom-feeders. Accumulation of sediment and water is much less likely as I understand the physics.

SDA: I'm not sure I'd agree with that, the bottom feed isn't truly off the tank bottom, it's usually about the same height as a pick up tube, so no real difference with accumulation of debris and water.

In fact, I have drain valves on the two side tanks (360 gal. each) that are one inch lower than the supply line valves.

SDA: OK, so your supply fittings are pretty far off the bottom if the drains are 1" lower?

Every year or so, I open the drain valves to see what comes out. Nothing but fuel, no debris, no water, nothing but clear fuel.

SDA: Unless the drains are on the bottom of the tank, in a well, this isn't terribly definitive, again most drains are accomplished with a welding boss of pipe coupling, to accommodate the flange or weld bead respectively they have to be pretty far above the bottom comparatively. Some photos of the well design here, along with pipe coupling side drains https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/cleaning-diesel-tanks/

I rather doubt I will ever have a problem with crud but, if I do, an occasional opening of the bottom drain of the primary filter housing will let me know. Bad load of fuel? Highly unlikely as it always was, but with the advent of ULSD diesel and its associated cleanliness requirements for use in high pressure common rail diesels, a bad load of fuel in North America is extremely unlikely, almost non-existent.

SDA: Unlikely but not non-existent, the most common supply contaminant I see in fuel in NA is water.

Sure, Racor turbine filter housings work but I just do not see that they have any particular advantage over a spin-on except maybe the clear bowl, the bowl which one needs a bright light to use.

SDA: Clear bowl, coalescing cone, ease and speed of replacement, water probe, factory provisions for a vacuum gauge using an available outlet plumbing adapter, leak-proof O ring fittings, inexpensive and readily available filter elements, easy and safe to pre-fill...I could go on.

Also, for low volume engines such as Lehmans, doesn't the turbine effect not work?

SDA: It always has an effect, but higher fuel flow does impart more centrifugal force to separate water.

Another point, except in the rare, very rare situation of having to change a filter while underway, changing a spin-on filter is way easier than changing a Racor.

SDA: Having changed hundreds of both in my career, we'll have to agree to disagree.

And, with dual Racors, if both become plugged up underway, now what?

SDA: That's not possible if you are using them correctly, you only run on one at a time, the off line filter can be replaced while underway, so you are back to having a standby in minutes.

A rare occurrence to be sure but, then, plugged filters while underway are rare anyway. Given a choice, I would opt for a Tony Athens sequential filtering system (with vacuum gauges) before a dual Racor any day. One just needs to watch the gauge on the 20-micron first filter to know whether there is crud going on. Then drain once every new fueling to check for water. Done.[/QUOTE]

SDA: As I said, I don't question the effectiveness of the spin on metal filters, and they are less expensive, and with Tony's set up you do get inexpensive sequential filtration, but you could do that with a pair of Racors plumbed in series as well, so no meaningful difference, other than cost, and the Racors offer the other aforementioned attributes.
 
IF for some unknown reason, the authority decides the Racor spin on filters are now recommended/strongly encouraged, your boat, when constructed, complied with all regulations at the time of construction.

There are no regulations governing recreational diesel powered vessels' fuel systems in the US...
 
Nothing regarding your recreational vessel's diesel fuel system is legal or illegal, there are no regulations that have the force of law in this realm in the US.

It's "legal" but not advisable, virtually every engine and gen manufacturer, along with fuel system best practices, cal for a dedicated filter for each engine.
 
Steve, I read your article. You know what you are talking about. I can understand why some brokers are 'afraid of you.'

What is your opinion of the American Tug tanks and set up. I have been told, the fuel supply at the bottom of the tank is a butt weld.
Is that correct?
I had a Reverso FPS80 installed. Is there a real advantage of a fuel polisher? After Irma, I did get some water in the tank but, the Racor 'got it.' I did get the alarm, at the helm, checked and drained the bowl. Water all gone. I had that side of the duel Racor rebuilt. Also, I think the source of the water was from the flush mounted 'fills'. I replaced o'rings too. This is a very important part of the maintenance.
 
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Bad load of fuel? Highly unlikely as it always was, but with the advent of ULSD diesel and its associated cleanliness requirements for use in high pressure common rail diesels, a bad load of fuel in North America is extremely unlikely, almost non-existent.

I got a bad load of fuel several years ago in Noank, CT. I had what looked like very large coffee grounds. The particles were so large they actually clogged up my copper fuel line and shut the Perkins down.
The particle got "stuck" in the male portion of the brass flare fitting where it was rolled with a slight burr.
I cleared that and a few weeks later another particle got stuck in the shut off valve to the Racor 900. Cycling the valve broke it up and I got underway again.
Another boater on my dock had the same problem and I found out we both fueled up the same day.
Found out later that the filter on the diesel pump failed and the tank was near the bottom.
I eventually got everything out by draining the Racor after every trip. All it took was a teaspoon full to let the crud out. But it took a couple of months for it to clear out.
 
Dan

Steve, I read your article. You know what you are talking about. I can understand why some brokers are 'afraid of you.'

SDA: So you read the editorial. Most have nothing to fear, they call me a deal killer, but in fact all I kill are bad deals. Most of the sales I'm involved with go through, just not at the asking price because I find issues about which even the seller was unaware.

What is your opinion of the American Tug tanks and set up.

SDA: Can you be more specific?

I have been told, the fuel supply at the bottom of the tank is a butt weld.
Is that correct?

SDA: Butt welds are common, see https://weldingheadquarters.com/what-is-a-butt-weld/ for a definition. AT, like most builders in that area, know aluminum and how to work with it. Still, most tank drains, unless they are located in a well, won't drain all water and crud because they are not at the absolute bottom of the tank.

I had a Reverso FPS80 installed. Is there a real advantage of a fuel polisher?

SDA: A loaded question if there ever was one. IMO, yes, you can never have too much filtration, however, installation for polishing systems is key, and most are not installed optimally. See https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/fuel-polishing-systems-explained/ for the short version and https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/FuelPolishing_PBB112_opt.pdf for the long story.

After Irma, I did get some water in the tank but, the Racor 'got it.' I did get the alarm, at the helm, checked and drained the bowl. Water all gone. I had that side of the duel Racor rebuilt. Also, I think the source of the water was from the flush mounted 'fills'. I replaced o'rings too. This is a very important part of the maintenance.[/QUOTE]

SDA: I don't love fills that trap water, and you are right, few people look at O rings, you should do this every time you remove the cap, they should be inspected, and lubed and replaced when deteriorated. If you got water in your Racor, I'd be concerned you have more in the tank, the ordinary fuel pick up is located some distance from the tank bottom, it's almost a certainty that some water remains behind, which isn't good under any circumstances because it supports biological life and it's a corrosion issue for alloy tank. I'd suck a sample off the bottom of the tank (use a non metallic tube for this).
 
Dumb question - Does a gauge on the primary Racor filter measure the vacuum through the whole system, including the secondary filter? Or just indicates whether the Racor element needs to be changed?
 
Dumb question - Does a gauge on the primary Racor filter measure the vacuum through the whole system, including the secondary filter? Or just indicates whether the Racor element needs to be changed?

Welcome aboard. Just the Racor filter. When the gauge goes up change the Racor element. I would change the secondary filter elemenst every second or third Racor element depending on how dirty your fuel is.
 
Welcome aboard. Just the Racor filter. When the gauge goes up change the Racor element. I would change the secondary filter elemenst every second or third Racor element depending on how dirty your fuel is.

Wouldn't it be the vacuum between the check valve ball in the racor and the injection pump - a big part of the system, minus back to the tank?
 
Wouldn't it be the vacuum between the check valve ball in the racor and the injection pump - a big part of the system, minus back to the tank?

Not exactly sure, would have to take a Racor apart to see. It has been a couple of years since I had one apart and I don’t remember exactly how it is built. But the vacuum gauge is there to tell you when to change the element.
 
Not exactly sure, would have to take a Racor apart to see. It has been a couple of years since I had one apart and I don’t remember exactly how it is built. But the vacuum gauge is there to tell you when to change the element.

I think I can clear this up because I have had Racors with downstream vacuum gauges reading off a tee in the line (actual gauge at the helm) between the Racor and the engine-monted fuel filter in four different installations. The vacuum on the helm gauge and the vacuum on the Racor cap always pretty much coincide.
 
The vacuum gauge on the Racor measures the vacuum between the actual filter element and the first pump (lift pump). The pump is the source of the vacuum and the filter acts as a vacuum regulator, increasing vacuum as it becomes more of a restriction. After the first pump the lines will be positive pressure. All lines and cavities between the filter and the first pump should be the same vacuum pressure.

FYI..vacuum is still pressure. Its just a measurement comparison to atmospheric or ambient pressure. If you had 2 psi of vacuum (on a standard day) its actually 12.7 psi absolute (since we exist at 14.7 at all times)
 
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Last time I checked my gauges read in inches Hg.
 
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In/Hg
PSI
Torr
ATM
Micron
millibars
Kpa

Doesn't really matter. All units of pressure/vacuum. Many gauges have 2 or sometimes three scales on the gauge face. Its just sometime helpful to know whether a gauge is based on absolute or atmospheric/ambient to help understand what's going on or convert to another scale when dealing with pumps that are rated in PSI and to understand a system.
 
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Inches of mercury can be converted to psi
1 inch of mercury*=

0.491 pound-force per square inch

Positive pressure is usually expressed psi, vacum as in of hg. And then there is that metric system we dont talk about :)
 
The vacuum gauge on the Racor measures the vacuum between the actual filter element and the first pump (lift pump). The pump is the source of the vacuum and the filter acts as a vacuum regulator, increasing vacuum as it becomes more of a restriction. After the first pump the lines will be positive pressure. All lines and cavities between the filter and the first pump should be the same vacuum pressure.

FYI..vacuum is still pressure. Its just a measurement comparison to atmospheric or ambient pressure. If you had 2 psi of vacuum (on a standard day) its actually 12.7 psi absolute (since we exist at 14.7 at all times)

This is is a good explanation. A bit more color: Racors are designed to be mounted on the suction side of the line, which makes sense since they are feeding the engine. Also explains why they measure vacuum instead of pressure.

They are ridiculously expensive (>$100 to buy separately) but have color-coded range-fields on the dial and an adjustable static dial indicator so you can see if pressure is creeping up over time. Only thing more ridiculously expensive is not having one when you really need to know if your filters are clogged. There are cheaper alternatives (under $20) without these features; and mostly made of plastic or plain/painted steel.

https://www.defender.com/product3.j...-gauge&path=-1|311|2349076|2349087&id=3939915

Peter
Racor Vacuum Gauge.jpg
 
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