Understanding Racor Indicator Gauge

[MYTraveler]

We have one on our Lehman 135. It moves the vacuum recording needle as filters clog and RPM increase. Seem to work fine. As someone else stated. Vacuum is vacuum.

But a very dirty filter will not produce much vacuum at very low flow rates. Kind of like Ohms law with electricity.

 

[sunchaser]

What happens to you if your second filter begins to clog because you are suddenly in rough water or whatever?

Rough water is a normal occurrence for many of us. Why should rough water clog a filter unless you're behind on filter changes, tanks are dirty or fuel bad? As suggested by others, preventstive maintenance plays a role.

All above said, if I were to purchase an old boat that had low hours I'd lean heavily towards dual primaries thinking a fuel or dirty tank problem may be lurking due to underuse.

 

[rgano]

Along with what CJ stated, my single Racor 900 per engine get changed annually or at about 800 - 1,200 gallons. Never once since the vessel was new has a vacuum reading above the gauge bottom occurred.

These filters in a commercial setting will easily handle 5 to 10 times that much normal reputable dealer fuel. The caveat of course is at the low flow rates most of us see, a vacuum reading above "bottom" can indeed occur for a few reasons including:
- fuel tank placement,
- old cruddy dirty tanks,
- high circulating flow rate engines
- very iffy tank to filter lines.

On our vessel, I'm still awaiting a good reason to install a dual first stage filter setup. If I were to choose that path I'd ditch the Racors and go with a Fleetguard setup ala Tony Athen's recommendations.

A single engine is a good reason to install switchable Racors. I did not bother when I had a twin.

 

[OldDan1943]

Yet, no one has duel Racor for the generator. SHRUG

 

[catalinajack]

Yup. What if. Lots of what ifs on this forum the likelihood of which is quite remote. Besides, a filter getting completely clogged that fast, well, you'll win Powerball before that happens. Besides, one should already know whether one's fuel tanks are clean. Bad load of fuel? Highly unlikely today with the regs on ULSD fuel. Before the advent of ULSD a bad load, still rare even then, was only somewhat likely. Still, the "conventional wisdom" lives on.

What happens to you if your second filter begins to clog because you are suddenly in rough water or whatever? Now you have one clogging and the other, which you are saving to do "at your leisure" already clogged.

 

[rgano]

But a very dirty filter will not produce much vacuum at very low flow rates. Kind of like Ohms law with electricity.

My misery old 120 Ford-Lehmans with their low flow produced enough vacuum to tell me at 5 inches Hg it was time to be looking into the filter change idea and at 10 inches I had better do it damned quick.

 

[rgano]

Yup. What if. Lots of what ifs on this forum the likelihood of which is quite remote. Besides, a filter getting completely clogged that fast, well, you'll win Powerball before that happens. Besides, one should already know whether one's fuel tanks are clean. Bad load of fuel? Highly unlikely today with the regs on ULSD fuel. Before the advent of ULSD a bad load, still rare even then, was only somewhat likely. Still, the "conventional wisdom" lives on.

I do not know what your level of experience is, but deliver a few boats which have been idle before finally being sold and you'll find out how fast filters can clog, preventive filter changes notwithstanding.

 

[READY]

Catalinajack: My Hatteras 58 EDMY berthed and used in Norcal 5+ years with multiple offshore trips. Delivery captain moved it from San Diego to Carolinas. No fuel problem. 1 month later I left North Carolina for FL. No problem until 2am, rough seas & 60 miles off shore of Jacksonville port engine stops. 5 minutes later stb stops. Filters were changed 1 day prior to departure and now both were clogged. Flipped to backup and changed the clogged filters. Had to change the backup next day (less than 8 hours later). Was it bad fuel in NC, just the right movement to stir the tanks, no idea but by your statement I should have purchase a lottery ticket . It is a boat so what CANNOT go wrong will go wrong. To me it is worth it to have the dual racors and change them regularly and in between if I see them starting to load up. If nothing else it makes me pay more attention and not keep off guard. 100% agree this is not common but it does happen. If I spend the money and I never need them I will not be unhappy.

Yup. What if. Lots of what ifs on this forum the likelihood of which is quite remote. Besides, a filter getting completely clogged that fast, well, you'll win Powerball before that happens. Besides, one should already know whether one's fuel tanks are clean. Bad load of fuel? Highly unlikely today with the regs on ULSD fuel. Before the advent of ULSD a bad load, still rare even then, was only somewhat likely. Still, the "conventional wisdom" lives on.

 

[catalinajack]

Catalinajack: My Hatteras 58 EDMY berthed and used in Norcal 5+ years with multiple offshore trips. Delivery captain moved it from San Diego to Carolinas. No fuel problem. 1 month later I left North Carolina for FL. No problem until 2am, rough seas & 60 miles off shore of Jacksonville port engine stops. 5 minutes later stb stops. Filters were changed 1 day prior to departure and now both were clogged. Flipped to backup and changed the clogged filters. Had to change the backup next day (less than 8 hours later). Was it bad fuel in NC, just the right movement to stir the tanks, no idea but by your statement I should have purchase a lottery ticket . It is a boat so what CANNOT go wrong will go wrong. To me it is worth it to have the dual racors and change them regularly and in between if I see them starting to load up. If nothing else it makes me pay more attention and not keep off guard. 100% agree this is not common but it does happen. If I spend the money and I never need them I will not be unhappy.

Offshore, I agree but how many of us go offshore more than a few miles and a few hours from some sort of safety? That's what I meant about the lottery. Yes, of course, it can happen. When had been the last time your boat had seen rough water such that the mud could be stirred up? I did say one should already know whether one has clean tanks. That would include having had the boat in significant rough water to know what one is dealing with. When we bought our boat we had the fuel polished. Three days of ownership saw us through some very rough conditions in St. Andrews Sound. Never had a problem. No need for dual Racors. Boat was built in 1983. My tanks are bottom feeders. I think that makes a huge difference in that any suspended particles ( and water) are filtered out through regular use. Just my opinion. I am not wrong, nor are you. A few months ago, out of curiosity, I opened one of my bottom drain valves. Totally clear fuel except for one spurious fleck of something and no water. I have never understood the thinking behind using dip tubes rather than drawing fuel from the bottom of the tank.

Catalinajack: My Hatteras 58 EDMY berthed and used in Norcal 5+ years with multiple offshore trips. Delivery captain moved it from San Diego to Carolinas. No fuel problem. 1 month later I left North Carolina for FL. No problem until 2am, rough seas & 60 miles off shore of Jacksonville port engine stops. 5 minutes later stb stops. Filters were changed 1 day prior to departure and now both were clogged. Flipped to backup and changed the clogged filters. Had to change the backup next day (less than 8 hours later). Was it bad fuel in NC, just the right movement to stir the tanks, no idea but by your statement I should have purchase a lottery ticket . It is a boat so what CANNOT go wrong will go wrong. To me it is worth it to have the dual racors and change them regularly and in between if I see them starting to load up. If nothing else it makes me pay more attention and not keep off guard. 100% agree this is not common but it does happen. If I spend the money and I never need them I will not be unhappy.

 

[sunchaser]

Ready
Sounds like the vessel picked up some high grade Latin America fuel. On that Hatt, are tanks below ER/cabin sole or side by?

 

[READY]

Catalina jack: agreed neither is wrong. To answer your question the boat had been in rough seas less than a month or so prior. I dont think the gunk came from fueling I think it was in the tank and probably was picked up due to sea state and maybe the tank level.
I did think of one other example when the duals can be helpful and I have experienced this. On the west coast we have only a few harbors so it is not uncommon to run 24 hours or more continuously between SoCal and NorCal. If you have to hange a filter or worse yet disassemble a racor for "mud" you don't have to shut down the engine. Not only does this help with speed and stability but it reduces the pucker factor when you know you only have one running engine. Also protects the tranny so you don't have to lock the shaft. Sure I can and have shut down an engine but when 6-12 hours from an active port I prefer to keep them running. Maybe this carried over from my time as a General Aviation (private) pilot. It just feels so wrong to turn of an engine (especially since I only had one!)


But 100% agree this is just my experience and thought process and neither right nor wrong. The great benefit of this forum is that one can gather input from many boat owners and then leverage what they feel is appropriate for their boat, their cruising area, their budget and of course their own style.

 

[HiDHo]

Mr TJM,
My gauge works fine on a 100 Hp diesel engine that burns 1 1/4 gph at 7.5 mph.
I’m pretty sure it would be low flow.

 

[dhays]

I like having the dual Racors as extra level of security and convenience. While I have a gauge on the filter manifold, I use it primarily as a trouble indicator. I check it as part of the normal engine check. I have yet to see it get high.

I change the working filter annually, and then switch over to the unused filter which has been sitting idle for a year.

Yes. I change the filter more often than needed. Yes, I have filter capacity that sits unused ALL the time. It doesn’t bother me in the slightest.

 

[catalinajack]

If a boat that I purchased came with duals, I would certainly not remove them just to reclaim some space. However, if I were re-doing a system I certainly would not spend $1,400 - $1,500 (twice that for twin engines) for dual Racors. I more likely would spend that money having the tanks professionally cleaned and install a Tony Athens sequential filtering system especially if the boat were a common rail diesel.

I like having the dual Racors as extra level of security and convenience. While I have a gauge on the filter manifold, I use it primarily as a trouble indicator. I check it as part of the normal engine check. I have yet to see it get high.

I change the working filter annually, and then switch over to the unused filter which has been sitting idle for a year.

Yes. I change the filter more often than needed. Yes, I have filter capacity that sits unused ALL the time. It doesn’t bother me in the slightest.

 

[catalinajack]

Every situation is different. My boat does not require locking the shaft to run on one engine. When running on one, I can maintain a speed of five knots. On two, my cruising speed is 7.5 knots. I do not ever run on one engine unless one is down. Happened to me twice. Both times it was the result of a fractured DriveSaver shaft coupler. I no longer have those couplers. If I ever purchased another boat that had them, they would be the first mod I would make. But that is a story for another day.

And thank you for a well-reasoned, polite discussion and respect for another's opinion. Collective opinion is what helps others reach decisions that are good for their particular situations.

Catalina jack: agreed neither is wrong. To answer your question the boat had been in rough seas less than a month or so prior. I dont think the gunk came from fueling I think it was in the tank and probably was picked up due to sea state and maybe the tank level.
I did think of one other example when the duals can be helpful and I have experienced this. On the west coast we have only a few harbors so it is not uncommon to run 24 hours or more continuously between SoCal and NorCal. If you have to hange a filter or worse yet disassemble a racor for "mud" you don't have to shut down the engine. Not only does this help with speed and stability but it reduces the pucker factor when you know you only have one running engine. Also protects the tranny so you don't have to lock the shaft. Sure I can and have shut down an engine but when 6-12 hours from an active port I prefer to keep them running. Maybe this carried over from my time as a General Aviation (private) pilot. It just feels so wrong to turn of an engine (especially since I only had one!)


But 100% agree this is just my experience and thought process and neither right nor wrong. The great benefit of this forum is that one can gather input from many boat owners and then leverage what they feel is appropriate for their boat, their cruising area, their budget and of course their own style.

 

[Codger2]

I like having the dual Racors as extra level of security and convenience....... I change the working filter annually, and then switch over to the unused filter which has been sitting idle for a year........Yes. I change the filter more often than needed.......Yes, I have filter capacity that sits unused all the time.

That's the whole point of Duel Racors! Easily changed when running or at rest & one is always at the ready! Why is this so hard to understand/ Yes, they are expensive but if the purchase price is the main reason for
not buying one, then buy a "single"!

 

[catalinajack]

Not at all hard to understand. I just don't see the need but, if you do and are willing to pay $1,400 for one set-up, then good on you. I do know how they work.

I like having the dual Racors as extra level of security and convenience....... I change the working filter annually, and then switch over to the unused filter which has been sitting idle for a year........Yes. I change the filter more often than needed.......Yes, I have filter capacity that sits unused all the time.

That's the whole point of Duel Racors! Easily changed when running or at rest & one is always at the ready! Why is this so hard to understand/ Yes, they are expensive but if the purchase price is the main reason for
not buying one, then buy a "single"!

 

[rgano]

Not sure if it has been mentioned, but that overpriced dual Racor setup they sell can be replicated with a second single Racor mounted alongside the first and valved into the system with a few feet of hose and a couple of valves for maybe a quarter of the price. Have done it twice now.

 

[catalinajack]

Not sure if it has been mentioned, but that overpriced dual Racor setup they sell can be replicated with a second single Racor mounted alongside the first and valved into the system with a few feet of hose and a couple of valves for maybe a quarter of the price. Have done it twice now.

Yes. A single Racor is $400. But a good quality single filter head can be had for $175. Use with any water-separating with drain filter and you have yourself a much less expensive setup. If one desires a clear bowl, they are easily had also. Like the Parker on-engine filter I have on my Lehman 120. But, no Racor for me. I use a Fleetgaurd-Davco filter head. When the fuel approaches the top of the housing it's time to change the filter in the next 20 or so hours.

 

[dhays]

If a boat that I purchased came with duals, I would certainly not remove them just to reclaim some space. However, if I were re-doing a system I certainly would not spend $1,400 - $1,500 (twice that for twin engines) for dual Racors. I more likely would spend that money having the tanks professionally cleaned and install a Tony Athens sequential filtering system especially if the boat were a common rail diesel.

I’m certainly not suggesting that a Dual Racor setup is the only way to go. I’m not even suggesting it is the “best” way to go. If I was to design a system from scratch I would do it slightly differently from the setup that I have now. However, I would probably still end up with two Racor filters in parallel as part of the system.

 

[Rhodewaves]

Just wondering if these or gauges are really needed? I’m trying to decide if I should install them on my twin yanmar 240’s

 

[READY]

Without gauges I don't see how one would know the state of the filters(other than visual which might not be very accurate). I would not say they are required but I find them beneficial.

 

[RickyD]

We purchased the newer T Handle Gages RK19671 for our Racor Series 500 only to discover that they are not useable with our low flow Ford Lehmans that sip fuel at 3 GPH. I have 3 of them for sale, brand new.

They worked fine on my Lehman 275's

 

[rgano]

How did you discover they were unuseable? Did you install them or just take somebody's word for it. Had numerous gauges on my twin 120 Lehmans including some mounted at the helm - all worked fine.

 

[38ark]

If for some reason that plastic thing gets damaged you will get air into the fuel system. I have a tee on the outlet of the filter with a valve and then a vacuum gauge so if there is any problem I can easily isolate the gauge. I also have the gauge in the wheelhouse for easy monitoring

 

[Choices]

I modified my filter system to include 2) Raycor 500s with T gauges. One for Liehman 135 & one for genset. Genset filter also substitutes for fuel polishing system and pump.

With GB fuel manifold I can swap filters on the fly.

My engine will lose rpm at 5", and I have changed a filter with the engine idling off shore in under a minute and the 135 never missed a beat.

I have a squeeze bulb bypass on each filter.

 

[Steve DAntonio]

Yes. A single Racor is $400. But a good quality single filter head can be had for $175. Use with any water-separating with drain filter and you have yourself a much less expensive setup. If one desires a clear bowl, they are easily had also. Like the Parker on-engine filter I have on my Lehman 120. But, no Racor for me. I use a Fleetgaurd-Davco filter head. When the fuel approaches the top of the housing it's time to change the filter in the next 20 or so hours.View attachment 107479View attachment 107480

This is a good filter, but it lacks flame resistance (and ABYC compliance). Your decision to use, but others should know this. A Racor MA series complies with the 2.5 minute flame resistance guideline.

More on primary fuel filters here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/fuel-filters-simplified-2/

And filter service here. I'm no fan of the pop up vacuum indicators, it's equivalent to an "idiot light" vs. a proper gauge. More on those here https://www.proboat.com/2012/04/the-vacuum-gauge-tool/

 

[SeaMaster101]

The bottom line is that no matter what filter you use and how clean your tanks are, or if you have single or twins, the last fuel fill-up might be the one that leaves you "dead on the water".
I personally had mechanical gauge installed on the exit of my Racor filter where it connects to the engine lift pump. The downside of this mechanical gauge is that you have to go check it, on regular bases, or even if it has max vacuum achieved indication needle, you can still be surprised by faulty batch of fuel.

I replaced that system with VSM - Vessel Systems' Monitor that monitors many other parameters of different subsystems on my vessel and NMEA 2000 vacuum gauge that constantly monitors the status of my dual RACORs, actually the one of them that is being active at the moment. I have it setup to get warning and -4 PSI and alarm ant -5 PSI. I have tested that my engine will runs with vacuum on the gauge in excess of -8 PSI, so I know I have some time in case I can not attend to the filter switch right away (and please don't grill me because I'm referring to vacuum in negative PSI, I know it is not technically correct, but it makes the example easier to understand).
As soon I get warning on my Vessel Systems Monitor, I will switch to the standby filter, and I will plan my filter replacement for when the weather/sea conditions permits, or do it right away if I believe that the stand-by filter will get contaminated fast due to bad batch of fuel. This solution had worked great for me logging 10,000+ miles across the pacific and fuelling-up at all kinds of not that reliable feeling stations....

Here is what I use:
http://www.acrossoceansystems .com

I think this is my "peace of mind" that is well worth it!

 

[catalinajack]

Steve, would adding a heat shield bring this housing into compliance?

This is a good filter, but it lacks flame resistance (and ABYC compliance). Your decision to use, but others should know this. A Racor MA series complies with the 2.5 minute flame resistance guideline.

More on primary fuel filters here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/fuel-filters-simplified-2/

And filter service here. I'm no fan of the pop up vacuum indicators, it's equivalent to an "idiot light" vs. a proper gauge. More on those here https://www.proboat.com/2012/04/the-vacuum-gauge-tool/

 

[catalinajack]

In all your travels, how many times did you get a bad load of fuel? Only dead in the water if one has not brought along spare filters. And, if the fuel is that bad, your second filter will plug up and leave you dead in the water anyway.

The bottom line is that no matter what filter you use and how clean your tanks are, or if you have single or twins, the last fuel fill-up might be the one that leaves you "dead on the water".
I personally had mechanical gauge installed on the exit of my Racor filter where it connects to the engine lift pump. The downside of this mechanical gauge is that you have to go check it, on regular bases, or even if it has max vacuum achieved indication needle, you can still be surprised by faulty batch of fuel.

I replaced that system with VSM - Vessel Systems' Monitor that monitors many other parameters of different subsystems on my vessel and NMEA 2000 vacuum gauge that constantly monitors the status of my dual RACORs, actually the one of them that is being active at the moment. I have it setup to get warning and -4 PSI and alarm ant -5 PSI. I have tested that my engine will runs with vacuum on the gauge in excess of -8 PSI, so I know I have some time in case I can not attend to the filter switch right away (and please don't grill me because I'm referring to vacuum in negative PSI, I know it is not technically correct, but it makes the example easier to understand).
As soon I get warning on my Vessel Systems Monitor, I will switch to the standby filter, and I will plan my filter replacement for when the weather/sea conditions permits, or do it right away if I believe that the stand-by filter will get contaminated fast due to bad batch of fuel. This solution had worked great for me logging 10,000+ miles across the pacific and fuelling-up at all kinds of not that reliable feeling stations....

Here is what I use:
http://www.acrossoceansystems .com

I think this is my "peace of mind" that is well worth it!