Which glue

[angus99]

I’m having a teak frame and louvered doors made for an outside cabinet on our sundeck. The woodworker wants to know what glue I prefer. Will good ol’ waterproof Titebond work or is there something more preferable?

 

[Comodave]

I usually use epoxy. I also wipe it with acetone right before glueing to help remove the oil in the teak.

 

[Bkay]

I'd be a little nervous about a woodworker that doesn't already have a preferred adhesive for the material and usage. I agree with Comodave that epoxy is a good choice - but only if the user is experienced with epoxy and teak. If you say "epoxy" and he's never used it, will you end up with a mess?

Is it reasonable to ask him what he usually uses or prefers in this application?

 

[Comodave]

Also I try to use a mechanical fastening, screws or dowels, to reinforce the joint.

 

[koliver]

I have used various different glues in outdoor applications, though I lean towards a waterproof glue, like resorcinol. Titebond is a good glue, and outdoor furniture that is varnished will hold up well, but if the varnish fails, the glue will likely not be far behind.
The problem with epoxy is wear. The wood around a joint will wear, and the joint will not. This only affects unvarnished wood.

 

[Hippocampus]

+1 on resorcinol. It’s old school wooden boat stuff but think it works better than epoxy when doing wood to wood.

 

[FF]

PL glue is messy to use ,(wear gloves) but expands to fill any space in the joint making it a delight for repair. Mask areas not being glued.

The wood will snap before the glue joint , and its waterproof,no mixing or filler required.

Brand does not seem to matter, so use Gorilla Glue if you do not mind paying 50% extra for their advertising.

 

[backinblue]

I agree that it's a strange question from a woodworker hired to build something for you.

 

[ghost]

Knowing what glue (and other materials) to use is part of what you hire someone for. Maybe he simply failed to articulate that different glues have different trade offs and thought maybe you already had an opinion.

Having progressively done more woodworking, especially outdoor projects, the choice of glue took more research than the choice of wood! That said, I’ve successfully used epoxy, titebond 2/3, gorilla glue and others. There is more than one good choice to make, each requiring it’s own knowledge. But ask me in 20 years what I really think in each of these cases.

There is a really good brain trust here, and it’s just as important to know how to use each of those glues and how they get along with various finishes too. Sometimes using the lesser glue that you know the best is the better choice than trying out something “better” for the first time. In that light I’d ask him what he preferred, and if it is on the list of good glues that get along with the finish of your choosing, go with that. I don’t like paying someone to learn on my project.

 

[backinblue]

Knowing what glue (and other materials) to use is part of what you hire someone for. Maybe he simply failed to articulate that different glues have different trade offs and thought maybe you already had an opinion.

Having progressively done more woodworking, especially outdoor projects, the choice of glue took more research than the choice of wood! That said, I’ve successfully used epoxy, titebond 2/3, gorilla glue and others. There is more than one good choice to make, each requiring it’s own knowledge. But ask me in 20 years what I really think in each of these cases.

There is a really good brain trust here, and it’s just as important to know how to use each of those glues and how they get along with various finishes too. Sometimes using the lesser glue that you know the best is the better choice than trying out something “better” for the first time. In that light I’d ask him what he preferred, and if it is on the list of good glues that get along with the finish of your choosing, go with that. I don’t like paying someone to learn on my project.

Not only that, but if the glue fails to hold up, who's fault is it? If I'm hiring a pro, I would expect him to stand by his product.

 

[angus99]

Sorry guys, I neglected to mention he’s a friend—a meticulous cabinet maker—and he’s making them for free. He simply hasn’t a lot of experience with teak exposed to the elements; again, this is a pair of outside cabinet doors on our sundeck.

Thanks for the ideas.

 

[backinblue]

Sorry guys, I neglected to mention he’s a friend—a meticulous cabinet maker—and he’s making them for free. He simply hasn’t a lot of experience with teak exposed to the elements; again, this is a pair of outside cabinet doors on our sundeck.

Thanks for the ideas.

Thanks for the clarification, that makes a lot more sense now!

 

[HopCar]

If he hasn’t worked with teak be sure to tell him to wipe the surface with a fast evaporating solvent like alcohol or lacquer thinner before applying the glue.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
"...to wipe the surface..." SEVERAL times.

 

[Cigatoo]

Gorilla Glue will outlast anything. Moisture only enhances its durability.

 

[Benthic2]

I second the idea of the question causing doubts about the woodworkers qualifications

 

[Lepke]

I worked on wood boats since 1960 and was a union shipwright. There is no such thing as a 1 part waterproof glue. Especially where exposed to weather.
I use epoxy and a long time ago used Resorcinol that is a pia to mix. Either one survives wet destructive testing. None of the modified Elmer's glue do.
One day on your door, if you use a 1 part glue, you'll let the paint/varnish go too long and you'll know what I know.

 

[angus99]

I second the idea of the question causing doubts about the woodworkers qualifications

Please see post #11.

I worked on wood boats since 1960 and was a union shipwright. There is no such thing as a 1 part waterproof glue. Especially where exposed to weather.
I use epoxy and a long time ago used Resorcinol that is a pia to mix. Either one survives wet destructive testing. None of the modified Elmer's glue do.
One day on your door, if you use a 1 part glue, you'll let the paint/varnish go too long and you'll know what I know.

Thanks Lepke. I use resorcinol on my sailboat and agree that it’s a pia and messy. We actually discussed that particular glue and he’s glad to use it if I want. Wanted to see if there was anything easier to use and still effective out there; sounds like it’s that or epoxy.

+1 on wiping down with acetone or lacquer thinner. He reminded me it’s an essential step..

 

[Hippocampus]

Agree with Lepte. He’s obviously been there done that.

 

[FF]

The only hassle with resorcinol glue is it is poor at gap filling.

If your work is superb with a very thin glue line its great,

.Otherwise an epoxy that is filled will be better.

For many folks the West glue that comes with the epoxy and activator in a single tube can be use by removing a tiny scoop from either section .

Its expensive , but if only little glue is needed , its really handy. BE NEAT!