You said the guidelines are to tighten to 30 in-lbs which equals 2.5 ft-lbs.
12 in-lbs = 1 ft-lbs
racor drain fitting leaking
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You said the guidelines are to tighten to 30 in-lbs which equals 2.5 ft-lbs.
12 in-lbs = 1 ft-lbs
ranger58sb
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paulga
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I ordered two brass valves from west marine. will see. Thanks.
paulga
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yes, the manual says to tighten to 30 in-lbs
in-lbs is a very low torque, a wrench can easily overtighten. Do people generally use an in-lbs torque wrench to get it right?
in-lbs is a very low torque, a wrench can easily overtighten. Do people generally use an in-lbs torque wrench to get it right?
No. Experience calibrates your hand to know what is tight enough. If you’re going into plastic threads, a lighter hand is required.
Maybe a torque wrench isn’t a bad idea to help calibrate your hand?
You have the same Racor filters as I have. First: service life. Mine were installed when my boat was built, in 1980. The last time I changed my filters, was only three or four years ago, and at that time, as always, I removed the whole assembly from the wall and disassembled it. I found it in exactly the same condition as on its last disassembly, that is, that it would benefit from being cleaned, which I do each time, but needed nothing more than a renewal of the filter and its gasket and the O ring on the T handle.
Secondly, servicing:
Removal and disassembly and re-installation with the new filter, gasket and O ring takes no more than a few minutes and requires no special tools. You will need only a couple of wrenches to undo the supply and discharge lines, a screwdriver to remove the mounting screws and a different (Phillips) screwdriver to disassemble the Racor unit.. If you have a bucket, do your disassembly there, so you can keep the area where you do the disassembly clear of fuel. Log your servicing, then you will know how long yours will last before you see anything in the bowl.
On re-reading your post, I am not sure you are referring to the service life of the whole Racor unit, or just the replaceable filters and O rings. I have addressed the unit above. The filters, here in SW BC, Canada where we get good, clean fuel from most vendors, my Racors typically last 4 or more years. My on-engine secondaries last 10 to 12 years. The clear bowl permits quick inspection every time I am in the Engine Room.
You will see many discussion of this nature on this site and others, but we live in a fast changing world, where the push for cleaner air has pushed fuel suppliers to far better filtering in recent times, in order to achieve that. As a result, our much cleaner fuel has resulted in much better service life for all parts of the fuel system.
Darlin
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Easy to replace bowl. Aftermarket available.
paulga
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Last time at filter change I only replaced the rubber gasket under the racor cover and the tiny o ring on the T handle. In your practice what other rubber things do you replace as well?
paulga
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The brass valves just arrived
Will install it and see
Why do you suggest to replace the clear bowl as well?
A metallic plug, or the brass UL Marine (it only turns through 90 degrees and uses no springs to maintain tension and liquid tight seal, not all valves are alike) valve and heat shield are required for ABYC compliance. I'm disappointed that a surveyor would have suggested a catch bowl, no amount of leaking fuel is acceptable. Or, did he mean you needed the heat shield (bowl) as well?
More here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/...bolt-a-cigarette-lighter-and-distracted-work/
More here https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/...bolt-a-cigarette-lighter-and-distracted-work/
paulga
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He spotted the leak and did mention adding heat shield. Somehow he implies the leak is less concern to him with the heat shield in place. For me the leak is more concern though it's very slow.
Comodave
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I would be concerned about both the leak and lack of heat shield. I would fix both issues.
paulga
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the valves are smaller than I thought. the valve does not come with an o-ring.
so it simply screw into the clear bowl from the bottom, replacing the existing drain assembly?
The hex plug is a failsafe, then does a nylon one work?
As far as the link, yes as per their web site.
It’s a 90 degree valve. Without the plug and you inadvertently move/bump it a couple of degrees your leak will be a lot worse than what you have now. You can buy 5 for $7 on Amazon. We cruised 60k plus miles. I’m into stress reduction. One less potential leak point.
I use RectorSeal #5.
Edit: it’s probably spell check on your end but they are npt threads.
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Do not use an o ring. The valve has npt threads.
I wouldn’t use a nylon plug since the manufacturer specs brass plus nylon doesn’t have a place in fuel systems imho.
I wouldn’t use a nylon plug since the manufacturer specs brass plus nylon doesn’t have a place in fuel systems imho.
The plug is installed into the valve to prevent an inadvertent leak, an especially serious issue for tanks that bottom feed and the filter is below the level of fuel in the tank, as the filter is subject to the head of pressure created by the fuel column in the tank.
I had a case of a tech leaving an engine room on a vessel on a Friday afternoon, the vessel was hauled and inside our paint bay, he thinks his tool bag dragged over the valve and opened it, on Monday we returned to find 70 gallons of fuel in the bilge. Thankfully, the electrical system was being worked on so the bilge pumps were inactive, it would have been a disaster.
If you apply a wrap of Teflon tape to the drain plug, you can screw it in by hand, it won't leak and it will be easily removable without tools later. I have nothing against a plastic drain plug, but technically it does violate the ABYC Standard for flame resistance. If the valve is opened and the plug is the only thing from keeping fuel from leaking, and there is a fire, the plug will melt and discharge fuel.
I had a case of a tech leaving an engine room on a vessel on a Friday afternoon, the vessel was hauled and inside our paint bay, he thinks his tool bag dragged over the valve and opened it, on Monday we returned to find 70 gallons of fuel in the bilge. Thankfully, the electrical system was being worked on so the bilge pumps were inactive, it would have been a disaster.
If you apply a wrap of Teflon tape to the drain plug, you can screw it in by hand, it won't leak and it will be easily removable without tools later. I have nothing against a plastic drain plug, but technically it does violate the ABYC Standard for flame resistance. If the valve is opened and the plug is the only thing from keeping fuel from leaking, and there is a fire, the plug will melt and discharge fuel.
paulga
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Thanks for the details.
what was the outcome of that diesel leak? an insurance claim/lawsuit?
what was the outcome of that diesel leak? an insurance claim/lawsuit?
Marco Flamingo
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Yachtman,
Shhhh. You're supposed to buy a $100 Racor semi-heat shield, a $100 Racor brass valve (because the $100 heat shield doesn't cover the original plastic valve), and maybe an additional $100 valve (that can be accidentally bumped and turned on?).
An $8 stainless kennel bucket covers the entire Racor bowl, thus making the original plastic bowl ABYC compliant (a 2.5 minute heat test). The bucket even protects the original plastic valve, thus making that also ABYC compliant. It even fits over the smaller Racor filters with plastic bowls, thus making them ABYC compliant without the need to buy Racor's $80 metal bowl that you can't see through. Plus, when you change filters or do have a weeping fitting, the little SS bucket catches the diesel, reducing the chance of a Coast Guard MER. Win, win, win, win, win, etc.
You will need a 50 cent cup hook or similar to hang the bucket in the right position. You may even have to fabricate some type of a hook in order to maximize coverage and fire protection. So the $8 kennel bucket does take some thought. Which is something that appears lacking in the Racor $ystem.
One of my large Racors has a weep. Probably a drip every 3 months and apparently not noticed by the prior owner. I remove the little bucket every few months to check for sediment in the filter bowl, and sometimes there is a drop in the bucket, but the weep isn't enough to make me concerned between fuel filter changes or even wipe the bucket clean. The bucket solution solves a leaking Racor problem effectively, quickly, and for pennies. I could always put in one of my spare o-rings if I needed to, since have a little bucket handy.
paulga
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Larry, my racor #1 matches the "1993 and older" drain assembly. but I don't quite follow the disassembling instruction.
what is drain stem/ drain body? how to unscrew?
it is more complex than what I thought:
hold the clear bowl with left hand, loosen the big hex nut in the drain fitting - "12" in first picture, install the brass valve.
what is drain stem/ drain body? how to unscrew?
it is more complex than what I thought:
hold the clear bowl with left hand, loosen the big hex nut in the drain fitting - "12" in first picture, install the brass valve.
As you said, unscrew the hex head. It has standard threads.
Far less exciting, we informed the customer and then simply cleaned it up.
paulga
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I like the brass valve being simplified as one piece, also wonder why the original plastic drain fitting is designed with so many components
Caballero II
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The brass plug on the on the fuel shut off valve is not only recommended, it is required by ABYC to maintain compliance. I'm surprised it isn't included in most sourced Racor fuel filter fuel shut off valves.
Also, any approved sealant for use with fuel plumbing apparati.
You can purchase UL LIsted valves generically for about half the price of the Racor units, the manufacturer is Kantleak, McMaster has them as do others.
paulga
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Thanks, it's good to know.
I got west marine branded valves sold at a discount.
I got west marine branded valves sold at a discount.
paulga
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Last night I was about to install the valve. With a head lamp, I observed multiple vertical cracks around the bottom of the clear bowl. I think the leak was from a heavy hand
Cracks around racor #1 bottom:
The other two racors bowl do not show the cracks
Darlin, could you post a link to the aftermarket bowl?
Comodave
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I usually get Racor parts from the racorstore.com. They have been very helpful.
C lectric
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For gosh sake shut off the tank feed outlet and drain the Racor bowl. Have some paper towels to wipe drips away. Use a small drain pan below the filter also.
Change the O ring as O rings wear and can compress permanently so they weep once disturbed to many times.
There is a kit with a new plug, a new O ring, No, I don't have a part number. Just go into a distributor of Racor stuff. Take the old bowl to double check.
I don't allow fuel drips once I notice them as they could be ignited and the fuel can make a mess.
While you are at it get new bowls and replace the cracked ones. Don't be ham handed. Usually only a good snugging is needed along with NEW O rings or whatever seals are used.
Change the O ring as O rings wear and can compress permanently so they weep once disturbed to many times.
There is a kit with a new plug, a new O ring, No, I don't have a part number. Just go into a distributor of Racor stuff. Take the old bowl to double check.
I don't allow fuel drips once I notice them as they could be ignited and the fuel can make a mess.
While you are at it get new bowls and replace the cracked ones. Don't be ham handed. Usually only a good snugging is needed along with NEW O rings or whatever seals are used.
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