Bomar porthole latches

[Timicrinn]

https://pompanette.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Bomar_Product_Catalog_Current.pdf..I have searched their catalog…page 33 to try and find a mounting bracket. My 4788 hatch mounting bracket failed to hold onto the latch dog assembly #16. The P100-09 is available but not the mounting bracket. Their customer service reps had no good info to go on and could not help. Defender has the latch dog assembly but not the mounting bracket. The porthole is oval glass rimmed Al that is hinged at the top and swings inside to allow air…screened outside. Anybody have this happen to them? Not sure where to look next. Thanks for taking the time to read this.

 

[Comodave]

Can you get a photo so we can see exactly what you as referring to?

 

[Timicrinn]

Here are the pictures worth a 1000 words…hopefully

 

[CharlieO.]

Take your mounting pieces to a local 3-d printing shop. Get them made of plastic.

 

[Bacchus]

Take your mounting pieces to a local 3-d printing shop. Get them made of plastic.

Or a metal fab shop and they may be able to come up with a simple alum mount that won't break. Hard to tell from photo but it looks like a base plate & 2 tabs that provide the mounting & pivot for the threaded locking bolt?

A couple short pcs of angle with a flat stock base. Tack weld & drill reqd holes.
You might even be able to DIY by using JB Weld and hack saw to cut alum pcs?

 

[Comodave]

I hope I am wrong but I think that the part that is broken is molded into the hatch itself. I don’t think it is a replaceable part. That is the problem with plastic portholes, the UV degrades the plastic and it cracks. I replaced 11 PYHI ports on our last boat due to similar issues. I put in cast 316 S/S portholes but they were pricy.

 

[Bacchus]

I hope I am wrong but I think that the part that is broken is molded into the hatch itself. I don’t think it is a replaceable part. That is the problem with plastic portholes, the UV degrades the plastic and it cracks. I replaced 11 PYHI ports on our last boat due to similar issues. I put in cast 316 S/S portholes but they were pricy.

Dave I've had plastic frame Bomar portlights and agree the tabs were molded in.
These appear to be alum frame with an (plastic) insert that provides the pivot for the hold downs. That's why I suggested fabing an alum duplicate / similar piece.
It shouldn't be too difficult with a little ceativity.

 

[Timicrinn]

I was surprised that replacement latches were not readily available…new normal ����*. But like these great minds…a diy replacement part is in order, creativity throttled up, connections connected. Such a great resource…them screws are tight����

 

[Timicrinn]

It is an all aluminum window…with salt encrusted Phillips locked in tight…

 

[Comodave]

Can you unscrew the broken part and get it off the port? If so you could easily have a local machinist make new parts out of aluminum or S/S and then drill out the rivets on the latch itself and put it on the newly made part.

 

[Bacchus]

It is an all aluminum window…with salt encrusted Phillips locked in tight…

Not surprised.
You might try an impact driver... either hammer driven (Hbr Frt) or an impact drill. Trick would be to tighten first to break things lose w/o damaging Phillips head. Then try loosen w/o getting too aggressive and damaging the head.
I dont know if any penetrating oil would help but it sure can't hurt.
Those inexpensive hammer impacts have save the day for me a few times. Hbr Frt has a few choices that might be worth a try.

 

[Iggy]

I think, but who am I. I would call Bomar for the part or the part#. Most likely they are going to ask for a seral#. Plus they can tell you if the part is still available. They can also tell you which new unit would be a direct replacement. The cost of a new unit may not be too far off vs having parts made and the work of getting the screws out.

If those screws are AL, most likely they are frozen. The heads will break right off. I would drill and tap for the new screws. But I would try anyways.

I went though this with a 24x24" hatch last year. It was 45 minutes work replacing the hatch vs replacing the lens and the work tapping and drilling the bolts out.

The cost difference new to fix it I thought was worth it, you may not think so?

 

[Comodave]

I think, but who am I. I would call Bomar for the part or the part#. Most likely they are going to ask for a seral#. Plus they can tell you if the part is still available. They can also tell you which new unit would be a direct replacement. The cost of a new unit may not be too far off vs having parts made and the work of getting the screws out.

If those screws are AL, most likely they are frozen. The heads will break right off. I would drill and tap for the new screws. But I would try anyways.

I went though this with a 24x24" hatch last year. It was 45 minutes work replacing the hatch vs replacing the lens and the work tapping and drilling the bolts out.

The cost difference new to fix it I thought was worth it, you may not think so?

That may well be the easiest way.