HELP - Tach drop-out and Balmar Regulator.

[mvweebles]

I have a Balmar 612 Dual regulator and new Faria Tachometers. This is a new install of new Tachs (Faria 33842

Issue is that when the regulator goes to FLOAT, tach reading drops-out. Balmar tech support says this is a known issue without a work-around. They suggested putting a sensor on the flywheel, but this would require drilling and tapping a hole. I asked if a Wakespeed regulator was better (okay, snarky dig). Tech said no but there was another competitor who has solved the problem. I asked if it was Sterling and he said no, a new competitor more recent.

QUESTION - any bright ideas for me? My old tachs are long gone and ran off an some sort of signal generator off the injection pump (picture attached).

As always, thanks in advance -

Peter

 

[Nickwadsley]

The new competitor is the marco zeus
Looks amazing!

 

[fryedaze]

Are you driving the tach from the Balmar 612 regulator? The #10 connection is designed to keep the tach alive when the regulator doesn't charge. I have heard of cases where it doesn't always work.

 

[mvweebles]

Thanks Dave - my terminal layout is a bit different (see attached) but similar. #16 is the Tach output. As mentioned, Balmar tech said drop-out was a known issue for some tachs, though he wouldn't specify further. He said they've thought about solving the issue in future updates but didn't sound like it was a priority.

The new competitor is the marco zeus
Looks amazing!

Do you have a link? Google search turned up unrelated stuff.

Peter

 

[Bmarler]

Do you have two alternators on that Peter? If not, why the 612 dual?
I just put on the new balmar 618 this season and am pretty happy with it. I haven’t routed my tach through it yet but I am going to. If you have the balmar smart shunt and Bluetooth adapter you can run the app and see directly what the regulator is directing the alternator to do.
I found the field on mine had to be below 15% for the tach to drop out. This only happens when the solar panels are producing and the batteries are near full. It shouldn’t happen just from switching to float unless there’s a small bank and little to no loads.
I leave the inverter active and maybe switch on a fan or something to keep the tach alive.

 

[mvweebles]

I do have two alternators. When I was delivering boats, I ended up with all sorts of useful stuff - one of which was a 90a 12v Balmar. For my refit, I decided to add a 150a Balmar and found the dual alternator regulator. In hindsight, I should have just gone with a single larger alternator. Dual works okay, but it's hard to tell if both are working.

I do have 800w of solar, so during daylight, it's pretty easy for me to max out battery. I called Wakespeed and their regulator has same issue (actually not the regulator - regulator only passes through the signal from the alternator but when alternator shuts down, signal is lost).

Based on another thread from a month or so ago, I called SW Diesel in Wilmington CA. Nice folks who got a good chuckle out of Balmars suggestion to add a flywheel-mounted magnetic pickup (Hall sensor? Not sure I caught the name correct). "How do you get the magnet on the flywheel" was their question for Balmar. SW suggested I talk to ACDC Marine Electrics in Torrance CA. They have tachs made for the Perkins signal generator off the front of the timing case. I'll know next week if it works for me.

Peter

 

[fryedaze]

Maybe try securing solar while engines on. That 800 watt system would carry house loads and the Alternator would shutdown. Let the Alt carry house loads when cruising.
I have solar and had your same problem. Our fix was adding a pickup on the flywheel gear. It's easy on a Cummins.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. mv. I'm with Mr. Bm. Simply put some sort of load on sufficient to keep the electrons awake. Install a heated toilet seat for the Mem-saab. Install a second disco ball.

 

[Bmarler]

I do have two alternators. When I was delivering boats, I ended up with all sorts of useful stuff - one of which was a 90a 12v Balmar. For my refit, I decided to add a 150a Balmar and found the dual alternator regulator. In hindsight, I should have just gone with a single larger alternator. Dual works okay, but it's hard to tell if both are working.

I do have 800w of solar, so during daylight, it's pretty easy for me to max out battery. I called Wakespeed and their regulator has same issue (actually not the regulator - regulator only passes through the signal from the alternator but when alternator shuts down, signal is lost).

Based on another thread from a month or so ago, I called SW Diesel in Wilmington CA. Nice folks who got a good chuckle out of Balmars suggestion to add a flywheel-mounted magnetic pickup (Hall sensor? Not sure I caught the name correct). "How do you get the magnet on the flywheel" was their question for Balmar. SW suggested I talk to ACDC Marine Electrics in Torrance CA. They have tachs made for the Perkins signal generator off the front of the timing case. I'll know next week if it works for me.

Peter

Ahh, I see. I like the idea of the backup alternator already mounted and wired. If I didn’t have so many ways to charge batteries already in place I might consider doing something similar.
As far as tach signals go, I have to admit that when I bought my first diesel engined boat I was very surprised to see the tach signal pulled from the alternator. Why did this become the accepted method?
A far more reliable, accurate method would be to drive the tach off the engine itself. A mag pickup on the flywheel, or a tach drive off the crankshaft seems so much more accurate to me. Something like this:
https://www.murcal.com/Dual-Signal-Generator

 

[CharlieJ]

OP
If you have the headroom on your battery’s charging algorithm, you may try raising the float voltage on the regulator to the max voltage allowed. This has worked for me on occasion.

 

[Barking Sands]

I

Based on another thread from a month or so ago, I called SW Diesel in Wilmington CA. Nice folks who got a good chuckle out of Balmars suggestion to add a flywheel-mounted magnetic pickup (Hall sensor? Not sure I caught the name correct). "How do you get the magnet on the flywheel" was their question for Balmar. SW suggested I talk to ACDC Marine Electrics in Torrance CA. They have tachs made for the Perkins signal generator off the front of the timing case. I'll know next week if it works for me.

Peter

I ditched the W signal some time ago. You can do it for around $120 or so. Hall effect works great and 2 small magnets epoxies on the front balancer. Then bend up a bracket. If your original tach doesn't have the adjustability the Dakota tach adapter is great. I detailed my route in the video although I changed to an Aetna digital tach for high accuracy. The Aetan does not need the Dakota adapter.

https://youtu.be/wYEQLVfQQ70?si=DaMM1a9HCdx1gklh

 

[SeaDogAK]

I have the same issue with my Balmar tach signal. I bought two mechanical tach sending units from Aetna Engineering which I hope will solve the problem, though I haven’t installed them yet. I’m thinking you have a Perkins engine (two?) and they have some information on their website about tach senders for Perkins. My Perkins 6-354’s have a port on the front of the engine for a tach sender.

https://www.aetnaengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/perkins.pdf

 

[CMS]

Guys,

Ths is a very simple issue and it happens with any voltage regulator whether internal or external

A VRis really just a voltage limiter. If the system voltage exceeds the VR st point due to secondary charge sources the VR has no choice but to shut down the field which stops the AC pulse from the alt. The tach runs off the stators AC pulse..

If this is caused by solar simply wire in a really that shuts down the PV when the engine is. Running..

The new regulator is the Arco Zeus.

https://arcomarine.com/products/arco-zeus-high-energy-alternator-regulator

 

[Barking Sands]

I have the same issue with my Balmar tach signal. I bought two mechanical tach sending units from Aetna Engineering which I hope will solve the problem, though I haven’t installed them yet. I’m thinking you have a Perkins engine (two?) and they have some information on their website about tach senders for Perkins. My Perkins 6-354’s have a port on the front of the engine for a tach sender.

https://www.aetnaengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/perkins.pdf

I made my own signal with two magnets epoxied to the balancer. My tach drive cover is blocked by a Dixon stern thruster pump so that wasnt an option. But I use that signal to drive an Aetna digital tach and they are fantastic. Very very accurate.

 

[JDCAVE]

Maybe try securing solar while engines on. That 800 watt system would carry house loads and the Alternator would shutdown. Let the Alt carry house loads when cruising.
I have solar and had your same problem. Our fix was adding a pickup on the flywheel gear. It's easy on a Cummins.

Yes, I think the solar is causing the alternator to shut down. Our fix has been to shut the solar off on engine start up.

Jim

 

[CMS]

Yes, I think the solar is causing the alternator to shut down. Our fix has been to shut the solar off on engine start up.

Jim

A NC relay in the PV+ that powers open when the engine runs fixes this easily...

 

[catalinajack]

I have the same issue with my Balmar tach signal. I bought two mechanical tach sending units from Aetna Engineering which I hope will solve the problem, though I haven’t installed them yet. I’m thinking you have a Perkins engine (two?) and they have some information on their website about tach senders for Perkins. My Perkins 6-354’s have a port on the front of the engine for a tach sender.

https://www.aetnaengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/perkins.pdf

Aetna senders worked for me.