Helmsman Hacks

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Hydraulicjump said:
But I have no idea how to use it for flushing short of tuning off the water pressure pump when you flush. Bet you can figure that out, tho. For that matter you can use salt water for flushing if that is the case. No problem with pumping out regularly!
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Hydraulic,

The toilets on our boat has a flush only capability. I like your philosophy on the 90 to 95% use rule!
 
Helmsman said:
Win,

Check with Helmsman43 (forum name) on the boat beside you in your marina. He installed the max size TV you can put in the drop down cabinet. Looking at his set up might give you an idea. He may not see this since he doesn’t follow the forum that often.

Doug’s solution looks like it is about the same, but being able to directly measure hole locations, etc. might be helpful to you.

We just opted for a smaller TV that clears the outlet, and the locking mechanisms. Has worked well for us, but his operates perfectly and provides a larger picture.
Click to expand...
Thanks

Have the TV in hand. 32inch.

Mount to arrive shortly. The one I had my eye on that Doug then recommended.
 
This is not a hack but a question for H38 owners about the fuel gauges for the diesel tanks. (This seemed as good a place as any to post it, and it doesn't seem to warrant a new thread.) From my calculations over numerous trips, when the gauges for the tanks both read about 1/4 full, I estimate that both are in fact closer to 1/2 full. That is, I should have roughly 200 gallons total left, if indeed the tanks hold 400 as advertised. Do others have the same experience? (I don't like to let the tanks get down too far below the 1/4 mark, which makes it difficult to confirm my suspicions.)
 


Hydraulicjump said:
And Tom, three days of sun? You are not making Alaska sound all that attractive for next year
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Hi Hydra.. There was always a story about it rained most of the time in Alaska. Last year, it was mostly sun and 5 years ago, it was hot. This year, cloudy but mystical. Rain but not always. The clouds wrap around the snow-covered peaks, giving us a peekaboo view. What the rain brought is the salmon heading up the rivers, which brought out the bears, and the waterfalls that were endless, and the greenest of greens. It's been 70-80s in Roche I understand with full sun. Alaska saved us with savings on sunscreen and provided us another opportunity to engineer a water catchment. Why? Because it's too beautiful to go to any civilized port. I think we saw 6 helmsman on this trip up here this year, when will we see Off Leash next to EmBark? 2025?
trawler pic combo.png
 
Two Truths - My experience is that the gauges are about 10% "conservative". Just yesterday, I had port tank below 1/4*, and I overfilled it with 150 gallons. Honestly, I hope I never get there. I rarely allow the fuel to get less than 50% full - especially in the winter. I had too many water condensation issues in a previous boat not keeping the tanks full. Thus, older fuel in my tanks - especially in port. So I did a successful fuel transfer underway where I moved old fuel I had in port to starboard via returning the starboard tank. I didn't want to run both tanks down to near empty to get rid of older fuel. The volume is at 40 gals/hr. Not something you should do unless you stay on top of it. Fill port side and will now run the starboard down over time.
 
Tom-Jill-Lilly said:
Water, water everywhere but..
Does someone have a way to catch rain on the helmsman?

We've been out for 13 days, hoping another week, and were down to 1/4 tank in fresh water. It's amazing the amount of fresh rainwater pours out of the gutter and into the drink on a fine Alaskan day..
The question is, has anyone captured the rain from the SS rectangular spouts and directed it to a container? Use that water to do initial rinses on plates, or flushing heads, or ?? Save the boat fresh water for drinking, showers, coffee.. I'm a bit thirsty :)
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Another thing that I have done to save water is to put a bucket in the back cockpit half full with seawater. Dirty dishes get tossed in the bucket and left to soak. When I'm ready to do dishes, a quick scrub and then the rinsed dishes are taken to the galley for a quick clean with soap. Essentially, very similar to the old raw water faucets that we used to have on our sailboats for initial rinses.

The nice thing is that you don't have to wait for rain and it keeps the sink drains cleaner.
 
Tom-Jill-Lilly said:
Two Truths - My experience is that the gauges are about 10% "conservative". Just yesterday, I had port tank below 1/4*, and I overfilled it with 150 gallons. Honestly, I hope I never get there. I rarely allow the fuel to get less than 50% full - especially in the winter. I had too many water condensation issues in a previous boat not keeping the tanks full. Thus, older fuel in my tanks - especially in port. So I did a successful fuel transfer underway where I moved old fuel I had in port to starboard via returning the starboard tank. I didn't want to run both tanks down to near empty to get rid of older fuel. The volume is at 40 gals/hr. Not something you should do unless you stay on top of it. Fill port side and will now run the starboard down over time.
Click to expand...
Thanks Tom--this is helpful. About older fuel accumulating in the tanks: I assume the feed is from the bottom of the tank, and getting knocked around a bit by waves helps to mix old and new fuel, so I hadn't given this much thought.
I also hadn't considered transferring fuel between tanks via the fuel return, and it is good to know that the volume is 40 galls/hr, which is WAY above what I would have expected.
 
The hacks are all over the place today! 1) For dishes and water saving, our previous boats had itty bitty water tanks and we always did a pre-wash on the swim step. My last two sailing trips in the tropics--same, with lots of attention from fish. Key was to get all of the saltwater off the utensils or anything that would rust. 2) I too have run into the fuel gauge problem, including a messy overfilling based on my assumption of how much space I had. The advice I got here was to watch the gauges while filling. They are very accurate when nearly full. At least mine are. It would be great to have sight gauges on these tanks so we could make a more accurate estimation of total fuel. 3) Finally, Tom, I hope to see you in Alaska in 2025 come rain or shine, with the assumption of a whole lot of the former. Our boats were built for this kind of cruising. I am cutting way back, leaving time for extended cruising. I described it to a colleague as "an asymptotic decay curve of responsibilities that matches the asymptotic decay curve of my capabilities." Translation: go before they ask you to. Probably a motto for many parts of life.

Jeff
 
Two Truths said:
Thanks Tom--this is helpful. About older fuel accumulating in the tanks: I assume the feed is from the bottom of the tank, and getting knocked around a bit by waves helps to mix old and new fuel, so I hadn't given this much thought.
I also hadn't considered transferring fuel between tanks via the fuel return, and it is good to know that the volume is 40 galls/hr, which is WAY above what I would have expected.
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In the Op manual which came with my 38E:
"Normally, fuel will be drawn from and returned to the same tank (e.g., drawn from port and returned to port, or drawn from star board and returned to starboard). Fuel may be drawn from one tank and returned to another for other reasons, such as to compensate for a list."

Just remember : When shifting manifold valves during engine operation - remember - "open" before "closing".
 
Here's a yet-to-be tried hack. I post it in case anyone else needs it, tries it, and can report back.

Those who have AC installed as an option know the strainer and pump for the salon unit is in a location that isn't very accessible. Port side, near the transmission dip stick.

The pump does not self-prime well, or at all. Priming involves crawling in with tools in hand, pulling the hose off of the seacock enough to allow in a dribble of water and let out air, start the AC, and keep this all up until it runs water through and out the port side.

I read online somewhere there is an easier way. Prime it from the reverse side. Jam a water hose into the water outlet and fill the hose with water from the outbound side.

If that works, it would turn a tough job into an easy one.

I only need this after spring launch to reprime the system, and it holds the prime thereafter. As a result I have yet to have occasion to try it myself. If you try, please report back.
 
FWT said:
Here's a yet-to-be tried hack. I post it in case anyone else needs it, tries it, and can report back.

Those who have AC installed as an option know the strainer and pump for the salon unit is in a location that isn't very accessible. Port side, near the transmission dip stick.

The pump does not self-prime well, or at all. Priming involves crawling in with tools in hand, pulling the hose off of the seacock enough to allow in a dribble of water and let out air, start the AC, and keep this all up until it runs water through and out the port side.

I read online somewhere there is an easier way. Prime it from the reverse side. Jam a water hose into the water outlet and fill the hose with water from the outbound side.

If that works, it would turn a tough job into an easy one.

I only need this after spring launch to reprime the system, and it holds the prime thereafter. As a result I have yet to have occasion to try it myself. If you try, please report back.
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My a/c pump is finicky on getting primed after cleaning from the strainer to the intake thru hull. I have had much better success doing the method you state. I am not a Helmsman owner but an admirer.
 
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For A/C priming, ideally you want a steady up-slope from thru hull to pump, nowhere to trap air. And the pump needs to be below waterline. But if it's hard to get that or you still have priming issues, then I'd place the pump below the top of the strainer. Let the water flow up into the strainer, then down to the pump. Air should collect in the strainer in that situation, so if you lose prime, you just loosen the top of the strainer to let the air out and it should re-prime.
 
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The salon air conditioner on hull 3 is just to starboard right behind the forward engine room bulkhead. Very accessible. Why would they have moved it?
 
HeadedToTexas said:
The salon air conditioner on hull 3 is just to starboard right behind the forward engine room bulkhead. Very accessible. Why would they have moved it?
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My stateroom AC thru hull is in the same place your salon AC is. My salon AC is port side forward of the house bank, making it a little difficult to reach. To prime the salon AC, I loosen the hose on the outbound side of the pump and start the AC and when water starts leaking out, re-tighten the hose. The state room AC primes itself.
 
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Man, sloppy reading on my part. That's where our pumps are too, but our batteries are (for now) in the lazarette instead of aft of the main engine. The salon pump primes without incident every year, but the stateroom pump requires some coaxing.
 
I am awaiting the arrival of my new Helmsman 38E Hull #62. It has left Shanghai and is scheduled to arrive in Charleston on 9/29. Big thanks to amxr39. He has Helmsman 38E Hull #61 and it also arrived in Charleston.

So what am I doing on Helmsman hacks when my boat hasn’t even arrived as yet? After reading amxr39’s account of not being able to run all his air conditioners and other 120 VAC equipment with a single power cord, I went out and purchased a SmartPlug cord and a Marinco 50 Amp 240 V to 30 Amp 120 V adapter as my slip only has 50 Amp 240 VAC sockets. My first problem was that the SmartPlug cord did not twist and lock into the 50 Amp adapter. After a couple calls with SmartPlug and West Marine, I took both items to my local West Marine. They confirmed that it did not twist and lock properly and we tried the adapter in the store. It locked perfectly. A quick exchange and after purchasing a few more items, I was on my way.

The next problem was that the 30 Amp black lock and guard did not properly fit the 30 Amp standard side of the SmartPlug cord. It slid over the end easily and did not support the cord when twisted and locked. Another call to SmartPlug and they confirmed that their cord was not mechanically compatible with this feature of the Marinco adapter. A little thinking and I came up with a fix.

I measured the narrow part of the SmartPlug as 2 1/8” and the inside of the black Marinco screw on cap as 2 11/16”. Using a compass, I drew them on a flexible plastic snap-on top for luncheon meats and cut it out. Then I made a cut across it. See picture. After installing the black Marinco screw on cap over the 30 Amp standard side of the SmartPlug, I installed this ring between the two wide portions of the cord. See picture. Then a quick assembly pf the cylinder and it worked perfectly. My new cord locks into the Marinco adapter for a good electrical connection and the black lock and guard supports the cord, locks it in place and makes it weatherproof. Now all I need is a boat.
 

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A quick product note. We are coffee addicts, and this little Wirsh machine has been great. On sale it was about $135. There are similar units by Casabrews as low as $110. We like ours because it has suction cups that hold it tight to the Caesarstone, and it is small enough that if we are expecting a rough passage it fits into one of the lockers under the salon table. We usually buy ground coffee in 4oz packs but Wirsh also has a tiny grinder for whole beans (it has the red band around it in the photo).
 

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Hi Ric. do you have an amazon link to these two items?
Check out post 136, page 5. This is my no power solution.
 
I went directly to the Wirsh online store and got a $20 discount, so $139 with free shipping.
mywirsh.com

Elevate Your Coffee Experience at Home.

The espresso machine industry is often dominated by expensive machines that cost thousands of dollars. Wirsh is committed to changing that stereotype. Our mission is to provide high-quality, affordable coffee machines that offer you the Barista experience right at home.
mywirsh.com mywirsh.com
 
And we also have a French press backup that we use if I don’t want to start the generator and don’t want to stress the batteries via the inverter. And one of the $10 battery powered milk frother wands with warm milk.
 
High Mobility Starlink Mount on 37 Mast

Not sure if this a hack, but this is how we mounted the Starlink high mobility antenna on the 37 mast. The top is the Starlink antenna canted aft and the lower is a Shakespeare HD TV antenna on a custom bracket. Seems to work great so far with no co-site issues between the radar and starlink. Because the HD TV antenna has all of its gain at the horizon, it also works well even underneath the Starlink array. Not a lot of testing between the 5G booster and Starlink yet. Although I am not sure we will ever use both of those simultaneously.

Starlink Antenna.jpg
 
grnelson98 said:
High Mobility Starlink Mount on 37 Mast

Not sure if this a hack, but this is how we mounted the Starlink high mobility antenna on the 37 mast. The top is the Starlink antenna canted aft and the lower is a Shakespeare HD TV antenna on a custom bracket. Seems to work great so far with no co-site issues between the radar and starlink. Because the HD TV antenna has all of its gain at the horizon, it also works well even underneath the Starlink array. Not a lot of testing between the 5G booster and Starlink yet. Although I am not sure we will ever use both of those simultaneously.

View attachment 158721
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I like your set up. Is the 5G you are referring to a Sim Card in a non-Starlink router? As mentioned before, we have a Peplink router that decides the best signal between the two. We have a T Mobile SIM card in the Pepwave. This combination has worked well.
 
The 5G booster is the stout vertical on the port spreader. It is an analog booster for 5G mobiles by Wilson Amplifiers. We used to use it when cell phone coverage was lacking, however with Starlink now, I have tested WiFi calling and ,at least for now, that appears to work. So the 5G booster normally stays off. With that said, in a good T-storm Starlink will go out. We have a Netgear 5G hotspot (AT&T) connected to one WAN port of an ER605 router, and Starlink on the other WAN port. The Netgear antenna is up in the bridge storage cabinet. The ER605 is configured for load balancing and will switch all the traffic to the hotspot (if there is coverage) when Starlink is down for some reason, similar to your Peplink router. There is an EAP613 access point above the headliner in the salon connected to the router which provides WiFi, so I am not using the Starlink router / WiFi brick, just the antenna power supply, with the ethernet adapter cable Starlink sells. So far it all just works.
 
grnelson98 said:
The 5G booster is the stout vertical on the port spreader. It is an analog booster for 5G mobiles by Wilson Amplifiers. We used to use it when cell phone coverage was lacking, however with Starlink now, I have tested WiFi calling and ,at least for now, that appears to work. So the 5G booster normally stays off. With that said, in a good T-storm Starlink will go out. We have a Netgear 5G hotspot (AT&T) connected to one WAN port of an ER605 router, and Starlink on the other WAN port. The Netgear antenna is up in the bridge storage cabinet. The ER605 is configured for load balancing and will switch all the traffic to the hotspot (if there is coverage) when Starlink is down for some reason, similar to your Peplink router. There is an EAP613 access point above the headliner in the salon connected to the router which provides WiFi, so I am not using the Starlink router / WiFi brick, just the antenna power supply, with the ethernet adapter cable Starlink sells. So far it all just works.
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That is a good setup! I have a Pepwave 42g antenna that helps. So far, we have had a couple of dead spots on the Tennessee with the Sim Card, but the flat panel Starlink has been pretty much flawless.
 
Altair38 said:
I am awaiting the arrival of my new Helmsman 38E Hull #62. It has left Shanghai and is scheduled to arrive in Charleston on 9/29. Big thanks to amxr39. He has Helmsman 38E Hull #61 and it also arrived in Charleston.

So what am I doing on Helmsman hacks when my boat hasn’t even arrived as yet? After reading amxr39’s account of not being able to run all his air conditioners and other 120 VAC equipment with a single power cord, I went out and purchased a SmartPlug cord and a Marinco 50 Amp 240 V to 30 Amp 120 V adapter as my slip only has 50 Amp 240 VAC sockets. My first problem was that the SmartPlug cord did not twist and lock into the 50 Amp adapter. After a couple calls with SmartPlug and West Marine, I took both items to my local West Marine. They confirmed that it did not twist and lock properly and we tried the adapter in the store. It locked perfectly. A quick exchange and after purchasing a few more items, I was on my way.

The next problem was that the 30 Amp black lock and guard did not properly fit the 30 Amp standard side of the SmartPlug cord. It slid over the end easily and did not support the cord when twisted and locked. Another call to SmartPlug and they confirmed that their cord was not mechanically compatible with this feature of the Marinco adapter. A little thinking and I came up with a fix.

I measured the narrow part of the SmartPlug as 2 1/8” and the inside of the black Marinco screw on cap as 2 11/16”. Using a compass, I drew them on a flexible plastic snap-on top for luncheon meats and cut it out. Then I made a cut across it. See picture. After installing the black Marinco screw on cap over the 30 Amp standard side of the SmartPlug, I installed this ring between the two wide portions of the cord. See picture. Then a quick assembly pf the cylinder and it worked perfectly. My new cord locks into the Marinco adapter for a good electrical connection and the black lock and guard supports the cord, locks it in place and makes it weatherproof. Now all I need is a boat.
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I hope your yacht arrived before the strike started!!
 
How often are you folks doing bottom paint?

Mine delivered 7/23. Winter haul out. So it’s been on the boat 2 years but in the water just over 1.
 
FWT said:
How often are you folks doing bottom paint?

Mine delivered 7/23. Winter haul out. So it’s been on the boat 2 years but in the water just over 1.
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We had three full years on our CUKOTE bottom paint when we hauled the boat and did it again. I was impressed with the condition of the paint and thought it could have gone another year. My diver was ambivalent. Boat is in Elliott Bay full time.
 
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