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We use HTM-4 (13"x35") on the mid/aft and a 30" round near the front to allow for the curvature of the hull. We have to adjust the buoys up or down as we get to the top of the lock, but only ~6". We used to have covers but they got a mess and made it worse to clean.

https://www.meridianyachtowners.com https://www.baylinerownersclub.org/

Are you looking for a 490 or to communicate with existing 490 owners. You could probably broaden your search to Bayliner 4788's which is the same boat from ~1995+. Love ours.

I have a 1999 Bayliner 4788 and drive 90% from the FB, much better sight lines and nice to be in the breeze, inside only used if cold or rainy. Sitting on the FB helm, I'm 5'9", I can see right over the windshield. We don't use the isinglass as I prefer to not look through plastic. I can sit...

Just ensure it is oriented that the motor is above the pump, like any pump should be.

+1 on Marco UP3-E, made for fresh water, very quiet.

Should have clarified, breaker is on the panel. Plan to check tomorrow.

Unit was installed on my Bayliner 4788, sorry not a Trawler, back in ~2013 by previous owner, never had an issue. This summer it stopped working and hydraulic fluid was coming out of the power unit, turned out to be a leaking manifold, steel stud in aluminum block, who knew steel/aluminum don't...

Not worth it, ours is always used at max for short bursts.

I have very similar setup and checkvalve solved the problem, actually bought a new Seaflo pump with checkvalve, old one didn't have one, similar issue with bilge pumps, lots of water coming back into bilge when pump stops. On another note what 'temperature controlling faucet' did you use. I...

Agreed, but most Anchor advertising is not for storm conditions, that's what I like to buy for. I went from CRW 44 to a Mantus M1 85 then to a Mantus M2105, I like to not be woken up in the middle of the night with a slipping anchor, haven't been yet.

I'm a Mantus guy, we also use their medium snubber, but this chart outlines why you need something larger. We've been caught by surprise by 50mph winds at anchor and haven't had a problem. It's all about being prepared for the worst. Boat originally came with CRQ 44, absolutely useless...

I would have gone with the Ultra 45, not a fan of SS anchor or chain due to crevice corrosion issues, although 316L better than 316. We use a Mantus 105# with 250' 3/8" galvanized G4 chain on our 54' with a Fortress 37 as a spare/stern with 80% rope. Haven't had to use it yet.

In the installation manual, section 8.6 says to only use the supplied GNS antenna for send/receive, typical CYA but this was reinforced by the technician when I called after having issues. This particular AIS is not as 'flexible' as others and must have that antenna, even suggested using...

I have the same unit and had some antenna issues, you have to use the one provided by Raymarine, not attach to an existing VHF antenna. That being said I believe it takes a while for 'additional' information to show up, heard its about 10minutes. If you brother just wants to see where you are...

We use a 'Seagull IV X-2B' for the entire boat but have just put a 1micron cartridge filter ahead of it due to short life of the filters ($$) due to sediment. So far am happy, no taste, we shock with chlorine at every fill of the tanks.

Had the exact same problem, excellent utube to diagnose. We ended up purchasing thermo switch from IMTRA direct, $100+ but small cost in the overall scheme, I keep saying that but small things keep adding up! Couldn't for the life of me figure out how to replace after taking off the thruster...

It looks like a SidePower. We just replaced the solenoid on our SE130/250T. I assume you have seen the video on trouble shooting; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jk9z8XxJjOU You have to slide the solenoid out of the bracket and this give you just enough room to undo the bolts with a long...

I have had minimal experience with stabilizers, helped a friend solve a problem, however I've heard they 'gyros' need a long time to spin-up, i.e. an hour before they are useful, also that retrofitting is an issue if the boat isn't designed to handle the large resistive loads imposed on it by...

Maybe I wasn't clear. I upgraded from the CQR to the Mantus 85# with the same 5/16" chain and kept the original Muir HR1200 horizontal windlass. I was never happy with that windlass as it was <90 degree wrap and several times jumped off the gypsy, even after replacing the gypsy and chain. I...

Our original anchor on our 1999 Bayliner 4788, ~45,000# all in, was 45# CQR, dragged the first evening we used it and there wasn't even that much wind, skedaddled to a marina before it got dark. Upgraded to a Mantus 85# with same windlass and 5/16" all chain rode. Never had an issue but then...

After looking for a long time we bought two Fiido D4S, six speed, twist throttle and/or pedal assist, 40#, foldable, and $800 with free shipping. Looked at many others that were $$$ or ### and couldn't justify them as it's likely none will survive 5+ yrs on a boat. It is limited to 25km/hr but...

Just came over to Bahamas today and had salt spray right over the Fly Bridge. Happens all the time. I'm not saying to not use those but I'm sure they are affected by salt spray, maybe they last 5-10yrs. We just replaced our (3) Marine A/Cs after 24yrs of usage, before they failed.

Also the problem I have is my main 120vAC raw water pump needs to run, most people would have to add a 12v pump with some plumbing/wiring/seacock, this adds significantly to the overall cost which is already higher than off the shelf 120V units. Great technology but not a drop in replacement.

The compressor is 12v and the unit has an inverter to convert 120vAC to 12vDC. I love the idea of variable speed compressor but that's due to the 12v compressor controls. I have a little trouble believing converting AC to DC is 98% efficient, possible but not likely. Why not just get a 12v...