1986 Bluewater Coastal Cruiser Stringer Rot

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Tcheairs

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2023
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I have come to the unfortunate discovery that I have stringer rot within my starboard inboard stringer of my boat. I had planned to use the boat for 2 more years and then sell it. The repair would involve completely removing my interior kitchen countertops and cabinets all the way back to the aft bathroom. This repair would cost without a doubt $20/25K as per estimates from the boat yard capable of doing this job. If the repair is not done then the boat quickly reverts to a salvage value only as it would not pass a survey and in most cases become uninsurable.

The resale value of the boat is not an issue for me and I am not willing to tear out my (recently installed) Corian counter tops and beautiful teakwood cabinetry. So, I am looking for a repair which would shore up the damaged stringer and allow me to operate the boat for 2 more years at which point I am willing to sell it for whatever it is worth (as is) and needing stringer replacement. The idea I have is to insert a piece of aluminum or steel angle capping the full length of the damaged area (roughly the length of the Crusader 350 and beyond the motor mounts) for additional support. The left front motor mount has compressed the top of the fiberglassed stringer approximately 1/4" and I would seek to eliminate further compression. Since the motor mounts are adjustable I assume I will be able to achieve an "alignment" of the drive components as per before damage. Here's a photo of my situation with the right front motor mount. I'd appreciate a discussion of my idea and please keep in mind that this operation could NOT BE considered to be a "repair" of the situation and positively affect the value of the boat in any way. It's just for my own peace of mind. This boat is berthed on a lake, never exceeds 8mph and does not encounter rough water conditions ever.
Stringer Damage.JPG
 
Curious as to determination of rot. Boatyard say so or your analysis ? Not seeing any cracking in photo. Some boat stringers are hollow.
 
Core samples taken at the engine mounts by my mechanic...wet sawdust extracted. Not sure how far it goes aft. Very common for old Bluewater Yachts..
 
I think I'm just going to jack the motor up slightly at the motor mounts, glass in the indentation and slip a piece of 1/4" steel angle under the mounts (the length of both inboard motor mounts) and re mount with threaded holes in the angle (and keep an eye on it). This should get me by for a couple more years at which time I will sell the boat (as is) for best offer as a donor boat. I will have enjoyed this boat for 25 years. I'll be 80 by then and no longer interested in dealing with boat issues.
 
You might try Smith and Company CPES, Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer. Total Boat has a similar product. I have used it several times with success. Yo drill a bunch of small holes and inject it. It is very slow curing so it will soak in. You might have to suck out some of the moisture. You can drill and tap the fiberglass then make up a manifold and hook up a shop vac and run it for several days to remove some of the moisture. The boat I first did it on had a lot of rotted wood and the CPES turned it hard as a rock. Then fill the holes in the fiberglass with thickened epoxy. Fairly easy to do and it may help.
 
Thanks for the suggestion...I'll do some drilling...core samples show wet sawdust so drying may be an issue. Would the injection not work with a damp interior of the stringer?
 
I think I'm just going to jack the motor up slightly at the motor mounts, glass in the indentation and slip a piece of 1/4" steel angle under the mounts (the length of both inboard motor mounts) and re mount with threaded holes in the angle (and keep an eye on it). This should get me by for a couple more years at which time I will sell the boat (as is) for best offer as a donor boat. I will have enjoyed this boat for 25 years. I'll be 80 by then and no longer interested in dealing with boat issues.
IMO, you probably want to go further than between the motor mounts, with the angle iron. If I may offer a suggestion instead of angle iron. There is both fiberglass and epoxy available in angle and flat stock. I'm in the process of building some bunks for a float on trailer for my 10' Trinka dinghy. The bottom is like a watermelon, to the bunk material needed to be flexible. So the strength member on each bunk is Garolite G10 (51" x 3.5" x 1/8"). This stuff is incredibly strong. You might consider angle or flat stock on 3 sides through bolted and then maybe 6 layers of West System and bi-axial cloth from the hull, up over the stringer and back to the hull on the other side. In essence, you're using the old stringer as a core for the new one. IMO, your design is predicated on something in the stringer to hold the angle iron to. With mine, you're attaching the new stringer to the hull for strength.

If you're interested in Garolite, MSC keeps it in a numerous sizes and sells it by the inch.

Ted
 
The drier the better. I would look at the directions and see what they say. It has been about 20 years since I have used it so my memory is a bit fuzzy…
 
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