Air conditioner condensate line

[LindaFlorida]

Hello,

We own a 2009 34t Mainship.

I have a question regarding the condensate drain hose for both air conditioners. Both condensate drain hoses empty into the bilge area. The sitting water is creating a black mildew area, even after the bilge pump empties most of the water.

My question is; are the condensate drain hoses supposed to empty into the bilge area? I would think that they should empty to the outside of the boat some how. Possibly tied into the discharge of the air conditioner raw water line?

Thank you,
Linda

 

[Duetto]

not sure where ours goes but i read that it should dump into the "box" which houses the drain pump for the shower sump. we have a pilot 34 and it is under the front of our (single) engine.

 

[rgano]

Two fixes, easy and more involved.

Easy, throw some air conditioner condensate tray tablets in the AC's try. They will cut down on the mold growth. I don't ever leave port in humid Florida without them and renew them in my home AC monthly.

More involved, run the tubes to your shower sump drain box where the automatic pump will handle it, BUT you should still maintain tablets in the drain pan at the AC.

Been there, done that, and been rained on when the AC tray over my head did not have tablets in it and thus plugged up and overflowed.

 

[Comodave]

They usually do not go to overboard directly because the A/Cs may be below the waterline. So it is best to run them to the shower sump. You do have a shower sump don’t you? If you don’t then install one ASAP. You don’t want the shower draining into the bilge, it will cause a terrible stink.

 

[tiltrider1]

Two of mine go to the bilge and one goes over the side. I so rarely run them in cooling mode so water is not an issue for me here in the PNW.

My boat spent 1/2 its life in LA so I suspect that the A/C units saw a lot of use then but no issues now.

 

[Turtle Blues]

Do not tie it into the cooling discharge. That is still under pump pressure and will push water into and over the pan. Preferred and correct method as others have identified is into the shower sump or if above waterline directly overboard. Usually that is not possible due to the unit location so installing a sump with pump that discharges above waterline is next best choice.

 

[SIBERNUT]

During my time on a big 2 pig boat, there was one bunk under a HUGE condensate pan. Once in a while it got "plugged" (hmmm). When boat took a big up or down angle..........

 

[ranger58sb]

air conditioner condensate tray tablets

???

-Chris

 

[CaptTom]

Amazon.com

I've also used bromine tablets sold for hot tubs and pools. Don't use chlorine though!

 

[keith c]

I am not sure about your a/c drainage setup but I am thinking the salon a/c drain goes over board from the fiberglass box in the engine room. This box houses the a/c/unit.. The state room a/c which in my case ,mainship 34 FB,is located under the bed and should go to the sump. I am sure you have one? One note , the drain line from the stateroom A/C needs to be down hill from the A/C box to the sump box.

 

[ranger58sb]

Amazon.com

Thanks.

-Chris

 

[Bacchus]

Linda
Here are 2 pics of my AC drain... 1 from bottom, 1 from side of the fiberglass enclosure. They T together and run to the fwd most thru hull of the group of 4 on port side just aft of the bulkhead between ER and gen/ lazarette.
The access is behind the gen over to where the water htr & mufflers are located

 

[LindaFlorida]

Linda
Here are 2 pics of my AC drain... 1 from bottom, 1 from side of the fiberglass enclosure. They T together and run to the fwd most thru hull of the group of 4 on port side just aft of the bulkhead between ER and gen/ lazarette.
The access is behind the gen over to where the water htr & mufflers are located

Thank you very much !!!

 

[LindaFlorida]

Linda
Here are 2 pics of my AC drain... 1 from bottom, 1 from side of the fiberglass enclosure. They T together and run to the fwd most thru hull of the group of 4 on port side just aft of the bulkhead between ER and gen/ lazarette.
The access is behind the gen over to where the water htr & mufflers are located

I can see why it’s possible for the condensate lines to periodically get clogged. Thank you

 

[LongJohn]

My 2004 34T has A/C condensate drains similar to Keith C's description. I have had to snake the stateroom drain to the shower sump to clear mold plug.

 

[tdomenech]

Hello,

We own a 2009 34t Mainship.

I have a question regarding the condensate drain hose for both air conditioners. Both condensate drain hoses empty into the bilge area. The sitting water is creating a black mildew area, even after the bilge pump empties most of the water.

My question is; are the condensate drain hoses supposed to empty into the bilge area? I would think that they should empty to the outside of the boat some how. Possibly tied into the discharge of the air conditioner raw water line?

Thank you,
Linda

All three of mine emptied into the bilge (46' GB).

 

[HopCar]

I wonder if you could install this in the discharge line and have it siphon the condensate overboard?

Amazon.com

 

[GB32]

I have four evaporators and two compressors that produce a lot of condensate and all used to run into the bilge.
The evaporators drain under gravity, mostly to the shower sump or back to a compressor tray. The compressor trays are too low down to gravity drain so I use Sauermann Condensate Pumps (others are available), that take the condensate to a separate small sump tank which empties on a float valve.
(Mini condensate removal pumps | Sauermann Group).
I use Sauermann pumps because they are pretty standard kit to deal with condensate in UK Central Heating boilers.
I don't use tablets (cant find them locally), but a splash of bleach into the tray or a spray of bleach/water or AirCon Cleaner onto the fins of the heat exchanger matrix, keeps the pipes clear and (I hope) deals with any legionella that might come along.

I do like a dry bilge!
Best of luck
Garry

 

[Sailor Harry]

Hello,

We own a 2009 34t Mainship.

I have a question regarding the condensate drain hose for both air conditioners. Both condensate drain hoses empty into the bilge area. The sitting water is creating a black mildew area, even after the bilge pump empties most of the water.

My question is; are the condensate drain hoses supposed to empty into the bilge area? I would think that they should empty to the outside of the boat some how. Possibly tied into the discharge of the air conditioner raw water line?

Thank you,
Linda

Hi, you have received good advice about routing your air conditioner condensate lines to your shower sump. Two other good solutions are to install a separate sump and pump or install an eductor in the cooling water pump discharge line which will pull the condensate into the discharge line. Google "condensator" and "eductor" and see what you can find. We installed a new air conditioner on our Corbin 39 sailboat in 2013 and added the "condensator" at that time. We purchased the air conditioner and condensator from a company in Florida, but I do not remember the name (not Dometic, etc.). We now have a Nordic Tug 32 with the separate air conditioner condensate sump and pump.

 

[captmikem]

Just a note here, put a loop ( just a circular loop will do fine) to keep from drawing the odor from the bilge or shower sump up into your AC unit.

 

[CharlieO.]

My A/C sits higher and fairly close to my aft head sink. I plan on adding a Y so it can discharge overboard via the sink drain hose.

 

[Intrepid]

I put Venturi in output line, sucks the condensate out.
Look for irrigation Venturi.

 

[CaptTom]

I'd think twice before adding bleach. It's pretty corrosive to aluminum, and destroys rubber. Both of which you can often find in air conditioner trays and/or bilges.

Many big-box stores carry pool supplies, including bromine (not chlorine!) tablets for pools and spas. They may be easier to source locally than dedicated condensate tray tablets. And they're also good in any bilge areas where water can collect.

 

[tdomenech]

Hello,

We own a 2009 34t Mainship.

I have a question regarding the condensate drain hose for both air conditioners. Both condensate drain hoses empty into the bilge area. The sitting water is creating a black mildew area, even after the bilge pump empties most of the water.

My question is; are the condensate drain hoses supposed to empty into the bilge area? I would think that they should empty to the outside of the boat some how. Possibly tied into the discharge of the air conditioner raw water line?

Thank you,
Linda

I had a 46' GB, all three AC's drained into bilge. Never had a problem.

 

[Dougcole]

I'd think twice before adding bleach. It's pretty corrosive to aluminum, and destroys rubber. Both of which you can often find in air conditioner trays and/or bilges.

Many big-box stores carry pool supplies, including bromine (not chlorine!) tablets for pools and spas. They may be easier to source locally than dedicated condensate tray tablets. And they're also good in any bilge areas where water can collect.

Yeah, I occasionally used to put chlorine tablets in the strainer for my AC to reduce growth in the coil and lines. I kept them in a ziplock bag in a plastic tub with no lid near the strainer. While I was gone from the boat the fresh water pump leaked a little water into the tub and the tablets dissolved in the water, out gassing all over my AC intake hoses as they did so. Rusted out the hose clamps on the hose in just a couple of weeks before I realized what was happening.

Bleach has its place for cleaning for sure, but you need to be careful with it.

 

[oguidry]

This worked well for me on a prior boat:

Dometic Marvair CR330 Condensation Removal Kit - 9108844722​

Description​

The Marvair CR330 removes the condensate water produced during the cooling cycle of your Marvair reverse-cycle air conditioner and discharges the condensate into the air conditioner's outlet water line.

Features:​

• The condensate is pumped overboard any time the air conditioner's circulation pump is working and sufficient condensate is in the condensate pan of your Marvair unit
• By operating on the Venturi effect, a separate condensate pump is not required
• A water filter/strainer, a reducer and a check valve are also provided and must be installed with the CR330
• The filter prevents debris from entering the CR330 and obstructing the water flow
• The check valve allows the condensate to flow in only one direction
• The flow rate, measured at the air conditioner, must be at least 1.0 GPM (3.8 LPM) but no more than 4.6 GPM (17.4 LPM)
  • Flow rates less than 1.0 GPM (3.8 LPM) may result in improper removal of the condensate
  • Flow rates greater than 4.6 GPM (17.4 LPM) may result in a restriction of water flow to the air conditioner
  • Always refer to the air conditioner's Owner's manual or Product Data Sheet to determine the correct water flow for proper operation of the Marvair air conditioner

 

[SteveK]

Just a note here, put a loop ( just a circular loop will do fine) to keep from drawing the odor from the bilge or shower sump up into your AC unit.

A loop will create a location for water to sit. Another poster that snakes out the line due to mold blockage may have a loop, but even a level run and mild rise will have water sitting and growing mold.

 

[HeadedToTexas]

Main bilge or shower bilge, removing condensate is pretty much the same, eh? Since mine is already piped into the shower bilge and since the elevations already work out, I'm pretty happy having a mostly dry main bilge. Not much different the other way though.

 

[Dennis C]

On my Pilot 34 they go into the shower sump. An easy fix is use a venturi tied into your discharge overboard as suggested above.

 

[live2fish]

Before our OA we had a 2008 Mainship 34 Trawler. The front a/c pan was plumbed to drain into the shower/sink sump. The stateroom a/c unit had a line into the bilge so I put a quart bucket at the end and just emptied it as necessary. For whatever reason that unit didn't produce much condensate.