Jim Gandee
Veteran Member
Fleet,
For those of you who use an anchor bouy how do you rig and deploy it?
Thanks,
Jim
For those of you who use an anchor bouy how do you rig and deploy it?
Thanks,
Jim
Anchor buoy
- Thread starter Jim Gandee
- Start date
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FF
Guru
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I put a shackel on the crown of the anchor that holds a 1/4 or 3/8 line.
The line goes thru the eye of a red plastic 10inch anchor ball and terminates in a lead sounding weight.
The 1/4 line is about 40 ft long and is hauled on deck after the windlass has the anchor secure in the bow roller.
The lead weight is used as required for depth measurement or a bottom sample..
The ball is simply allowed to drag off the deck as the anchor is set.
The weight touches bottom in shallow water , so reduces the ball movement to 20 ft , close enough for the next folks to know where your anchor is.
1/4 is usually enough to pull the anchor out from an obstruction with the windlass as required.
I dont usually use a ball for the stern anchor (lead to the bow) as usually its fairly close to the boat.
The line goes thru the eye of a red plastic 10inch anchor ball and terminates in a lead sounding weight.
The 1/4 line is about 40 ft long and is hauled on deck after the windlass has the anchor secure in the bow roller.
The lead weight is used as required for depth measurement or a bottom sample..
The ball is simply allowed to drag off the deck as the anchor is set.
The weight touches bottom in shallow water , so reduces the ball movement to 20 ft , close enough for the next folks to know where your anchor is.
1/4 is usually enough to pull the anchor out from an obstruction with the windlass as required.
I dont usually use a ball for the stern anchor (lead to the bow) as usually its fairly close to the boat.
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OP
OP
Jim Gandee
Veteran Member
FF,
Appreciate the good info. Sounds as if you rarely/never anchor in more than 40' of water then?
Thanks,
Jim
Appreciate the good info. Sounds as if you rarely/never anchor in more than 40' of water then?
Thanks,
Jim
TONTOROSS
Senior Member
Jim & FF - Great question & answer. Explains stuff in the deck locker & how not to use it. New to most of the boating thing, much is common sense the rest is searching for solutions. Thanks again, Tonto.
sunchaser
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I never use one when anchoring in the PNW with chain and a heavy anchor. I fail to see the logic, even when anchoring in shallow East Coast locations unless the rode and anchor are very light. In crowded anchorages a floatee helps so you can holler and point as a new arrival is getting ready to drop anchor, "You're right on top of mine!"
TONTOROSS
Senior Member
My boat has no rope just chain. 150'. I sailed around the Baja frm Ensenada as crew. When we dropped the hook, the ball & rope went with it. At the time & until further educated, it make sense. One reason given was to not pass over the anchor. You do have a good point. Thanks, Tonto
OP
OP
Jim Gandee
Veteran Member
Last summer while anchored in a Gulf Island cove (Canada) a sailboat entered and laid across my anchor. If I'd of had a bouy it could have prevented that incident. As an aside, I'd like to use the bouy line as a retrieval line in case of a struck anchor. Thoughts, ideas?
caltexflanc
Guru
I had a couple of depth specific anchor buoys; used one once in a crowded anchorage, that was the last time, adds way too much hassle to the retrieval process. But yes, you could use it as a trip line if in an sketchy area.
When I first saw this thread, i thought it referred to something far more practical:
A nice technique to have ready for the day the windlass goes tango uniform
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The logic is to fasten it to the head end of the anchor so if the anchor catches on tree stumps, rocks, etc., you can retrieve it and not have to cut the rode and lose the anchor.
I've only used one a couple times where I had been warned about underwater snags. One time when I didn't use one I brought a fairly large log up with my anchor but I was able to push it away and free the anchor.
FF describes the technique.
sunchaser
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I used to do this on a small Searay with a 15 lb Danforth anchor and no chain. Now with a very stout windlass, the ability to back and coast down the opposite way with a 60,000 lb vessel to free the anchor and about 300 lbs of anchor and chain hanging out there - it simply isn't necessary or practical to attach a water ski rope and buoy onto my anchor.
millennium
Veteran Member
No more anchor buoy for me.
The last time I used one I woke up and discovered the boat had dragged several hundred feet. Sometime during the night the boat drifted over the buoy and it snagged on one of the prop shafts. Now dragging the anchor around backwards, and I was reluctant to use the motors since there is a line wrapped up.
The water was fairly warm so I dove and freed the shafts.
All chain rode now with no anchor buoy attached.
The last time I used one I woke up and discovered the boat had dragged several hundred feet. Sometime during the night the boat drifted over the buoy and it snagged on one of the prop shafts. Now dragging the anchor around backwards, and I was reluctant to use the motors since there is a line wrapped up.
The water was fairly warm so I dove and freed the shafts.
All chain rode now with no anchor buoy attached.
psneeld
Guru
Read FF's post closely, his method virtually eliminates that possibility.
I understand your concern but there are pros and cons...the trick is to see how many of the cons you can eliminate so the pros make anchoring even better...
markpierce
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There are a lot of areas I've avoided where I feared the anchor being stuck on the bottom due to possible fouling. A future project is to acquire an anchor buoy system for the purpose to aid retrieval. Letting out rode using the windlass's foot pedal:
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Nomad Willy
Guru
Most all of my anchors are inexpensive and I've not yet had one stuck. But I have used a small buoy and a trip line. Don't bother unless I'm in an anchorage that is known for logging debris or similar. And then I use my very inexpensive Claw anchor.
OP
OP
Jim Gandee
Veteran Member
Some good info, thanks for the great discussion thus far! I can sure see how an bouy line could foul easily. Sounds like most other things in life in that there are times to use it and times it wouldn't be so important.
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Couldn't agree more. No-one - repeat no-one, uses those anchor floats here in Queensland. Never seen one used anyway. I suspect we have a bit more room in popular anchorages however.
CPseudonym
Moderator Emeritus
At the risk of piling on, I considered a buoy/trip line for a while. Then decided why complicate a simple process. Am purchasing a new anchor from Hopkins Carter tomorrow and frankly if I lose it-I lose it. I'll just order another new one.
I suppose folks that anchor in snag prone areas find bouy/trip lines handy but haven't heard of many folks losing anchors in my area or on the forum.
I suppose folks that anchor in snag prone areas find bouy/trip lines handy but haven't heard of many folks losing anchors in my area or on the forum.
markpierce
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Not so much worried about losing a Claw, but rather 200 feet of chain rode although could save some of it sawing for an hour.
BruceK
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Some boats carry bolt cutters for that reason, sailboats do to cut away rigging.
The anchor buoy is a rarity here, it might help keep out the idiots determined to graze both bow and rode, but I doubt it.
The anchor buoy is a rarity here, it might help keep out the idiots determined to graze both bow and rode, but I doubt it.
Northern Spy
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Doesn't work with the tide 10-15' around here. Too much friction in the eye of the bouy. Rigged one up and tried it a few times. Now I don't bother.
Jay N
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Here are some notes from my anchoring log:
Thoughts on Anchor Buoys and Retrieval Lines:While there may be an argument for equipping the anchor with a retrieval line and float, the possibility of loss of the anchor and rode do not seem to justify the inconvenience and possible fouling/loss of anchor retrieval gear. If you are anchoring at a location where boats normally anchor, the only reason to put out a line and float with the anchor, would be to help other boaters locate your anchor position. This only works if wind shifts and vessel congestion do not create a situation where it may be very difficult to correctly guess which anchor buoys belong to which boats. In most anchoring locations, the presence of a floating buoy/fender seems to confuse many mariners, not to mention dinghies with kids who keep trying to pick-up the float. Recently, it has been observed that some cruisers have been deploying an anchor buoy and then cautioning other vessels to not anchor too close to their anchor buoy. In a harbor with restricted anchoring room, this can eliminate an anchoring spot or two because it is common and safe for boats to swing over other anchors. [Have recently witnessed the crew on an anchored boat actually yelling at a boat trying to anchor and coming too close (apparently) to their anchor buoy. Reminded me of animals marking and defending their territory. I now refer to this as "territorial anchoring".]
Thoughts on Anchor Buoys and Retrieval Lines:While there may be an argument for equipping the anchor with a retrieval line and float, the possibility of loss of the anchor and rode do not seem to justify the inconvenience and possible fouling/loss of anchor retrieval gear. If you are anchoring at a location where boats normally anchor, the only reason to put out a line and float with the anchor, would be to help other boaters locate your anchor position. This only works if wind shifts and vessel congestion do not create a situation where it may be very difficult to correctly guess which anchor buoys belong to which boats. In most anchoring locations, the presence of a floating buoy/fender seems to confuse many mariners, not to mention dinghies with kids who keep trying to pick-up the float. Recently, it has been observed that some cruisers have been deploying an anchor buoy and then cautioning other vessels to not anchor too close to their anchor buoy. In a harbor with restricted anchoring room, this can eliminate an anchoring spot or two because it is common and safe for boats to swing over other anchors. [Have recently witnessed the crew on an anchored boat actually yelling at a boat trying to anchor and coming too close (apparently) to their anchor buoy. Reminded me of animals marking and defending their territory. I now refer to this as "territorial anchoring".]
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FF
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Folks that run the AICW find many of the nicest anchorages are either up a small creek , or in an area that is submerged woodlands.
Either is greatly assisted by a trip line, as even our Hyd windlass balks at lifting tree stumps.
A float on a 100 ft line would be a disaster in a tight anchorage , but directly above the anchor it is useful Information.
With high skill and cunning the boats NAME can be painted on the float ball , a help for newcomers. WE use a bit of reflective tape too for the late arrivals..
The next arriving boat is responsible for clearing the other anchored boats.
Just anchoring and tossing 7-1 line overboard does not give ownership to a 1000ft circle that musty be kept clear .In a crowded anchorage many boats will need to reanchor if the wind shifts dramatically.
We try for shallow water , frequently Bahama Moore , and sleep all night.
AS the setup self launches, the work of coiling the line after the anchor is in chocks is minor , and the weight has the advantage of having an accurate depth reading instantly ,as required.
A depth sounder tells what is under where ever it is mounted , a sounding lead is accurate where you toss it, to the inch .
For us loosing a 60 lb anchor be a loss.
Either is greatly assisted by a trip line, as even our Hyd windlass balks at lifting tree stumps.
A float on a 100 ft line would be a disaster in a tight anchorage , but directly above the anchor it is useful Information.
With high skill and cunning the boats NAME can be painted on the float ball , a help for newcomers. WE use a bit of reflective tape too for the late arrivals..
The next arriving boat is responsible for clearing the other anchored boats.
Just anchoring and tossing 7-1 line overboard does not give ownership to a 1000ft circle that musty be kept clear .In a crowded anchorage many boats will need to reanchor if the wind shifts dramatically.
We try for shallow water , frequently Bahama Moore , and sleep all night.
AS the setup self launches, the work of coiling the line after the anchor is in chocks is minor , and the weight has the advantage of having an accurate depth reading instantly ,as required.
A depth sounder tells what is under where ever it is mounted , a sounding lead is accurate where you toss it, to the inch .
For us loosing a 60 lb anchor be a loss.
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I almost always use an anchor float. I gauge the depth then tie on a milk jug with light twine of appropriate length before dropping the hook.
Ground Tackle & How to Use it.
Ground Tackle & How to Use it.
You'll also lose part of the rode. If it's all chain you'll need a way to cut it or you'll have tu dump the entire length. If it's rope/chai you'll lose the chain part and have to buy new chain and try to find someone to splice it. My anchor cost only $100 but the rode cost $300.
If you don't have a spare anchor and rode, losing them means no more anchoring until they can be replaced. If you are on a cruise, that can be an issue.
Yes, it's a good idea to carry spares and I have a spare anchor and rode on board but they are not equal to the main ones.
That's the point entirely. Use a trip line where you know or suspect underwater snags. Don't use one where the bottom is thought to be clear.
Some folks live and boat in areas where snags are not a problem but it helps to understand that others may run a risk of losing their anchor and rode without a trip line.
I normally do not use a trip line but I have it ready and use it when I think there's a risk of snags.
OP
OP
Jim Gandee
Veteran Member
Some excellent discussion, personal experiences and thoughts. I like the idea of a retrieval line. One could attach a float if desired, if so, I like the idea of the line through the float with a weight on the end to allow for tide. Thanks!
Steve
Guru
I'll tell you an anchor retrival method that worked for me, several years ago we were anchored at Rabbit Island just east of New Orleans. We had spent the night on the hook in about 10' of water. The "hook" was a virgin 45 # Delta on 5/16" chain. When we got ready to leave it was hooked solid on what I believe was a piece of an abandoned oil rig, those who have been by Rabbit Is. will know the rusting hulk I am talking about. For about 45 min. I tried pulling from every angle and could not get it to budge. I was going for the hacksaw when I remembered a suggestion fellow list member Charles from Patterson La. had given me years ago. Onboard I had a piece of 1/4" chain about 2' long, with it I made a loop around the anchor chain just outside of the bow roller with a shackle and fastened it to the end of a piece of 1/2" dock line. With the windlass I pulled the boat up tight so the anchor chain was vertical and lowered the loop down to the anchor, the chain, and anchor shank, being vertical let the loop slip down over the anchor shank. Then I loosened a good bit of anchor chain and keeping the 1/2" dock line fairly tight I drove the boat forward and the anchor came free right away. So I was able to save the brand new Delta and continue without too much delay.
It worked for me then, I haven't had to use it since, maybe someone else can benefit,
Thanks you again Charles!!
P. S. Boatpoker: if you read this Jon & Candace on Isle of Skye spent the night at anchor with us that night we travelled eastward together till Ft Myers
It worked for me then, I haven't had to use it since, maybe someone else can benefit,
Thanks you again Charles!!
P. S. Boatpoker: if you read this Jon & Candace on Isle of Skye spent the night at anchor with us that night we travelled eastward together till Ft Myers
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