All 12v except for the ER which is a combination of 12v and 120v, also our boat deck lights are 120v.
Its because it's way brighter, there are 4 2ft fluorescent waterproof fixtures, don't know what I would do with out them.Makes you wonder why they decided in those areas to add 120v lighting. Because it was brighter? Given the choices today and building it this moment would they just have done all 12v LEDs? My guess is that's probably what they all do now.
Its because it's way brighter, there are 4 2ft fluorescent waterproof fixtures, don't know what I would do with out them.
Which is an interesting point. How many of us have purely DC lighting aboard? Mine is a combination, and of course I have an older boat. But I have some 120v fixtures around the boat for light...and some 12v.
Some people might say the same about a generator cluttering up the engine room, or having lights in general. Hell, if the sun sets shouldn't you go to sleep? lol
Ron - yes and no. If its only the simple bulbs, yes. But what about where you go to the trouble of wiring in strip LED lights? Also, you are still running off batteries at that point. For a live aboard dockside it may make sense to run off dock power.
Which is an interesting point. How many of us have purely DC lighting aboard? Mine is a combination, and of course I have an older boat. But I have some 120v fixtures around the boat for light...and some 12v.
Now that I think about it I would say its probably fine for the batteries to have constant small drains and charging. I wasn't thinking right before. I think they only suffer when badly discharged. Our cars are constantly discharging and charging the battery with accessories, ignition, lights, etc.
One could also recreate the "expensive" LEDs by soldering a buck power supply driver in between a good quality LED emitter and a bayonet base.
Disclosure: I bought those "expensive" LEDs for my boat from Marinebeam. I think I paid less than $11 each in bulk on a sale. Well worth my time not having to do the above steps. I'd rather glass in a bow thruster or rebuild a steering ram, to each his own, right?
PS: If I liked this kind of stuff, I'd be looking through instructables.com for ideas.
All 12v except for the ER which is a combination of 12v and 120v, also our boat deck lights are 120v.
skidgear - that's why I like the forums. To hear what others opinions are, and to share your own. I enjoy the conversations and laughs too. Only time it gets frustrating is when we allow things to become negative. Otherwise its ALMOST as fun as sitting on deck chatting, drink and snacks in hand with some fun people from your own dock.
But its for things like what you describe in your kitchen that I searched for info about brightness and shared it here. At this point there appears to 3 different kinds of strip LEDs, and if you bought the 3528 series one might really be disappointed in the light output. Having comparative Lumens lets me decide if I want to put 1 strip of LEDs in the old fluorescent fixture...or 4 strips! Or....do I dispense with the fixture/cover entirely and just mount the strips directly or on something else with no cover? Ahhh! The fun of decisions and being creative!
Which brings me to something else I have considered. These strips of LEDs...they come with adhesive backing, but I read somewhere of someone having problems with them staying stuck to a surface. I wonder if there is something you can use to prep the surface so they stick better? Like when you apply self stick tiles to a floor they make a prep that allows them to stick better.
Guess I will just have to buy some and experiment! LOL
Interesting, personally I prefer 12v because it's universal. But the advantage is you draw less Amps because of the higher voltage.Hi Oliver, I thought you'd find it interesting that my boat (hull #28) is 24 Volt. I believe Sea Eagle was the first 24 volt N47 and all subsequent boats are also 24 volt. I have the same 120v engine room flourescents and deck lights, but everything else on the boat is 24 volt (almost all LED's).
10 seconds to drill a couple hole and zip tie the 5050 strips onto the fixture base so they have better diffusion than taped to the lens.
I tested them arrayed around the outside of the fixture, but the intense reflection/glare of the individual pinpoints of light off the polished white counter tops was offensive to the chef...preferred to have them behind the lens. Didn't lose all that much with the lens. Fasten to your individual druthers...I'm sure they could be stapled directly to the bottom of the cabinets or onto a semicircular piece of wood or plastic tubing for the angular distribution of choice.
skidgear - how did you find the 5050's for brightness? Did you use warm white (3000-3500k), natural white (4000-5500k), or cool white (6000 + k)?
psneeld - how about you same question?
I have been thinking of ordering the 5630. Its supposedly 1.5 times the brightness of the 5050, but having zero experience with either I don't know what to expect.
In my research I found some larger capacity Buck devices, and if I remember correctly came across some that "buck up" and "buck down.
Not sure what I have...but they are definitely not the warm ones...I went for bright white with high contast for my girlfriend and seeing....
As your girfriend ages, you may want to warm that light up a little.
I would really like to convert all my dc lighting to led. Could someone give me more info on the cheap option from eBay. Like witch ones you recommend. And maybe explain a little more on the brightness or dimmers. I don't like bright bright but soft light. But bright might be good at times like in the engine room or even in the salon at times.So i'll make this easy, and make some money along the way. You forward me the superbright part number, or part number of the expensive LED's. I'll sell you equivalent LED's for 1/2 the price, and provide a written 2 year warranty. If they fail I'll give you your money back or replace them, my choice. I'll go to ebay and buy some LED's and take the risk. I'll use the money I make to fun my boating adventures and tell everyone on TF what a great time I'm having.
...And maybe explain a little more on the brightness or dimmers. I don't like bright bright but soft light. But bright might be good at times like in the engine room or even in the salon at times.
Our lighting is 100% 12VDC and all LED. In the saloon I have fitted all new fixtures but elsewhere, i.e. cabins and ER I have used the retrofit LED lamps.
I have had no voltage related issues and am very pleased with the light levels & power consumption.
I would really like to convert all my dc lighting to led. Could someone give me more info on the cheap option from eBay. Like witch ones you recommend. And maybe explain a little more on the brightness or dimmers. I don't like bright bright but soft light. But bright might be good at times like in the engine room or even in the salon at times.