Autopilot

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Capt. Paul

Member
Joined
May 3, 2023
Messages
6
Hello All,
I am new to the forum and Grand Banks. We anticipate a purchase of a 42 classic soon.
I want to install an autopilot, but don't know how it is doe on a cable steering system.
Can someone enlighten me?
Regards,
Paul
 
Welcome Capt Paul.
On a cable steering system, another steering quadrant is attached to the rudder shaft. That quadrant usually has teeth on it. There is then a gear that meshes with the quadrant that is attached to the mechanical drive unit via a chain drive.
 
Hello All,
I am new to the forum and Grand Banks. We anticipate a purchase of a 42 classic soon.
I want to install an autopilot, but don't know how it is doe on a cable steering system.
Can someone enlighten me?
Regards,
Paul

There are a couple ways to go about it, the old school approach is a belt drive that requires a cogged pulley to be added to your steering wheel shaft and a reversing motor to drive it. It just literally turns one of your existing steering wheels for you and I think most have a tensioner pulley that you release when you don't want the drive engaged to eliminate any additional drag in the system when you are hand steering. (edit: chain drives are pretty much the same and still available)

A newer approach is installing a linear drive directly to the steering quadrant, which is attached to your rudder shaft. For smaller boats there are all electric versions, not sure how big they go up to, there are also units with a hydraulic ram driven by a reversing pump. These drives have to be pretty strong not only to steer the boat but also overcome all of the resistance from your cable steering.

The computer or brains of the autopilot come in different sizes and primarily, they provide higher electrical capacity to drive larger autopilot drives, the larger the boat, the larger drive unit required, and the larger the drive unit, the more robust of a control unit to power it. The major electronics manufacturers make multiple sizes so you can select your preference, which may depend on how it interfaces with the rest of your electronics or can be left as a stand-alone system.
 
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Welcome aboard. Is the current steering system in good condition? If it is questionable then now is the time to upgrade to a hydraulic system. Then go with a hydraulic autopilot. Better to go now rather than after you buy a cable autopilot and then the cable steering goes bad and you have to spend money fixing it and you still have a cable system. Something to think about.
 
Welcome to the forum Paul. The boat doesn’t currently have an AP? Never did?
 
Thank you all for the responses. Sounds like a lot to consider. This boat never had a pilot. I would prefer to go hydraulic, but have no idea what that might cost. Either way, it doesn't sound cheap and I might have to go without!
Regards to all
Paul
 
Advantage of having the AP on a separate arm off the rudder post is you create redundancy. That’s a big thing for steering. Cable steering can have its troubles if not kept appropriately tensioned (can jump off pulleys) or if cables aren’t replaced when needed.

On several boats have had AP on a separate arm. Commonly a square groove is cut into the post. A key is placed between the arm and the post. Allows removal and or replacement as needed. On some blue water boats several arms are placed. Allowing several drive pistons. One isn’t attached. With failure the bad drive is disconnected and the spare attached. Drives fail more often than the electronics from what I heard. Also carry a spare rudder angle indicator. On sailboats it’s common to have a wind vane such as a Hydrovane or a servopendulum (monitor/Aries (Fleming etc.) All can be converted into mechanically steering the boat so people just carry a spare drive unit if voyaging.
 
Wow, I never considered issues with the cable coming loose. Never had a boat with anything other than hydraulic steering.
Thank you for your input.
 
I have never had a cable steering system but I would imagine that it is more maintenance intensive than hydraulic steering. Don’t know whaat it would cost to retrofit your boat with hydraulic but before you spend money on an autopilot is the time at least to consider it. Price out the system and then make an informed decision.
 
Thanks Comodave.
I'm sure the conversion is the way to go.
I'm going to weight the costs and see where it goes.
 
I have never had a cable steering system but I would imagine that it is more maintenance intensive than hydraulic steering. Don’t know whaat it would cost to retrofit your boat with hydraulic but before you spend money on an autopilot is the time at least to consider it. Price out the system and then make an informed decision.
Dave I have had cable steering and the only maintenance it needed was to look at it for any signs of fraying, feel the tension on the cable to avoid jumping off the pulley.

Hydraulic.
So far I have had to bleed the hydraulic, top up the fluid.

With nothing major on either I would need more data to determine which is more maintenance.
 
I had a GB with cable steering, a 36. Had the 36 for 15 years. Never had a problem. Just keep the sheaves lubricated and all should be fine.
 
The key is to make sure the pulleys, especially the pulleys in the aft lasarette, are actually rotating as the cable moves back and forth. Those pulleys are often neglected, freeze up, and eventually fail.
 
My previous boat was a 1979 GB42 with cable steering (and original Benmar auto pilot with drive connected to steering wheel shaft with a chain) which I sold in 2016. I had it for ten years and never had a problem with the cable steering.

My current 1973 GB50 originally had cable steering but a PO changed it hydraulic. Smoother than cable but I would not use my boat budget for this.
 
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My boat has cable steering (51 foot sailboat) Had to replace 40 year old cable and grease the pulleys No big deal. If you want an uncomplicated inexpensive easy to install autopilot and you don’t mind a wheel pilot the take a look at CPT autopilots. I have one, also a hydraulic sitek. Autopilot and an emergency tiller that is functionable. The CPT does NOT interphase with chartplottets etc but is simple quiet and robust. Took me one day including wiring to install. Good luck
 
Well, we finally decided against the purchase for other reasons. Our budget is the limiting factor. We will continue our search for a clean older boat, realizing there is always a compromise.
I plan on researching the parts and pieces in case I find another potential sale.
Thanks to all for your input.

.
 
Late to party, but I converted cable steering to hydraulic on my Willard 30 when I owned her. Cable steering was a jacketed cable, similar to outboard steering. Reason for conversion is similar to OPs question - to fit a better autopilot (boat didn't have one when I ourchased).

In today's pricing, Capilano helm pumps are over $1k each. I'd guess the hi-pressure tubing is $4/foot (I could be way off). The end fittings are probably $10/ea. And there are some oddball installation items yjat always come up, including oil. On a 42-foot boat, I'd guess parts would be in the $3500-$4000 range, plus the autopilot. If I remember, deinstall of old and install of new was around three full days, and that was 20-years and 40 lbs ago. It was not technically difficult, just time-consuming. Including the AP, I could easily see the price tag running to $10k or more if professionally installed at a yard.

If I did it again, I would use a bench vice to attach the reusable flare fittings. Pair of wrenches was a PITA and slow.

Guessing there aren't too many 42 foot trawlers that don't have autopilot already. The boats that don't already have it are probably older, poorly maintained ones that would not have a positive business case to install one. Exception may be Midwest time capsule boats that are warehouse stored half their lives and sometimes have had minimal upgrades over the years. Literal "barn finds"

Peter
 
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