Bow Protector

[larman]

Looking to purchase a stainless bow protector plate have not found any online that are big enough. Has anyone purchased one large enough for a trawler?

 

[OldDan1943]

Find a GOOD marine metal shop. Ask them to come out and give their opinion.
Might also ask the best way to mount it. Once you get it fabricated, you may need go to a yard, a quick haul, mount the plate and back into the water. It might be better to put the boat on the hard for a day or two.
Listen to the recommendations of the fabricator. I suspect he has more experience at design than you.

 

[Larry M]

We added one to our last boat. We made a template, took it to a metal shop and had them fabricate it out of stainless steel. We used plastic for the template and then formed it to the hull with a heat gun.

What are you trying to protect? Ours was to protect the bow when we were retrieving the anchor. Sizing was pretty easy since we had a bunch of dings already.

 

[Mako]

How did you attach it, with permanent adhesive, screws or through bolts?

 

[rgano]

What sort of plastic was used for your mold?

 

[Larry M]

How did you attach it, with permanent adhesive, screws or through bolts?

Short stainless steal screws that did not penetrate the fiberglass. Since it was just a strike plate, I didn't need anything more than just securing it to the hull.

 

[Larry M]

What sort of plastic was used for your mold?

1/8" acrylic after some trial and error. The first acrylic I bought was the type that wouldn't bend with heat. I don't remember what it's called but the acrylic i did use came from a shop that made displays. I also overheated it in a few spots but it was just a template plus it wasn't a complicated bend. It was a two person job though.

 

[sunchaser]

Larman
How big and thick a plate do you need will depend upon windlass, hawse hole location and anchor weight. We have a standard SS formed sheet, not a plate, that is easy to bend to fit our hull. I's guess that at least 1/2 the vessels over 40 feet in our marina have similar sheets to ours.

A visit to West Marine, nearby large yard or a decent chandlery should provide some catalog alternatives for your particular needs.

 

[larman]

We added one to our last boat. We made a template, took it to a metal shop and had them fabricate it out of stainless steel. We used plastic for the template and then formed it to the hull with a heat gun.

What are you trying to protect? Ours was to protect the bow when we were retrieving the anchor. Sizing was pretty easy since we had a bunch of dings already.

Just curious what did it cost how did you secure it? Just need to stop the dings when retrieving the anchor.

 

[markpierce]

Find a GOOD marine metal shop. Ask them to come out and give their opinion.
Might also ask the best way to mount it. Once you get it fabricated, you may need go to a yard, a quick haul, mount the plate and back into the water. It might be better to put the boat on the hard for a day or two.
Listen to the recommendations of the fabricator. I suspect he has more experience at design than you.

In 1963 my father made his first attempt to dock his auxiliary sailboat. Unfortunately, he put the engine in first gear rather than reverse. Took a chip out of the bow. Subsequently had quarter-inch-plate of stainless steel on the bow to fix.

Had a somewhat similar experience on the Norwegian Dream when it rammed a barge.

Meanwhile, while on my boat ...

 

[Pete Meisinger]

I guess I would go all the way to below the waterline. Might as well be able to crush ice if the time comes.

pete

 

[mvweebles]

Picture is a bit confusing due to boat next to Weebles, but you get the idea. As Larry said, some short screws. Guessing #8 x 1/2" ever 4 inches or so.

I paid $400 installed in Mexico.

 

[Larry M]

Picture is a bit confusing due to boat next to Weebles, but you get the idea. As Larry said, some short screws. Guessing #8 x 1/2" ever 4 inches or so...

That’s very similar to what we did. All I had the metal shop do was bend the SS and polish it. I drilled the holes and installed it.

At the time we had a CQR and the tip would occasionally hit during retrieval 6-8” down from the bow roller. This was easier and a lot cheaper that changing the roller.

 

[Mako]

Meanwhile, while on my boat ...

Isn’t it sooo nice when you can weld something on nice and solid and not have to mess with screws and 5200?

In 1963 my father made his first attempt to dock his auxiliary sailboat. Unfortunately, he put the engine in first gear rather than reverse.

Was that a four speed or five speed manual transmission [emoji3]

 

[Puffin_NT32]

Nordic Tugs uses vertical solid vinyl strips, similar to edge moldings, thru bolted to the bow. They prevent the anchor banging the bow on the way up into the anchor roller.