Cleaning mould / mildew

[SOMERS]

**Interior Boat cleaning.

Depending where you live *especially in warmer climates, boats *just like houses can be *infected with mould / mildew spores *which are carried *in by the wind, it only takes about two weeks.

**I do not use the word "Infected" lightly because mould spores can and do affect *peoples heath especially those *who suffer from *Asthma.

*Some people have been forced to *permanently vacate their homes infected with mould.

**You know when your boat has been contaminated because of the inherent *musty smell .

*May i offer these suggestions, firstly there is no quick fix. Sorry !

Way back in Biblical times they used to burn moldy clothing.*

**Choose a nice hot sunny day with a slight breeze open up your boat all hatches doors and ports for 100% ventilation, start early , systematically and completely *strip *the entire *interior of you boat on to the dock.

*Why mineral spirits ?

*Mineral Spirits is used in thinning oil based paints and is relative harm less, however *i would do a" test run" on some suspected *surfaces.

*USE VERY SPARINGLY. a damp application works.

**At your own risk ( no smoking Roger ) wipe down all the hard surfaces *with Mineral Spirits *which is*available from your paint store by the gallon, using *sponges, large paint brush and *cloth diapers.

The brush is used to get in the nooks and crannies.
*
**Mould is part of the "living vegetable family" and requires only damp humid air to survive.

**A Story *:-
Effectively , you can kill your lawn if you spill*Mineral Spirits on the grass.

*Note :- *Any and all items including boat cushions that are to be returned to the boat later must be carefully cleaned, *some misc items can be plastic bagged. *Bedding goes to the laundry and *tumble dryer or dry cleaners.

*Bilge cleaning *has already been posted.

*SPECIAL NOTE
*Following this post you will find a special note *prepared by Carey his finding are well founded and should be adheared to.

** There for i retract my comments regarding the use of "mineral spirits" as being not safe.

*SOMERS



-- Edited by SOMERS on Tuesday 22nd of March 2011 03:31:35 PM

-- Edited by SOMERS on Tuesday 22nd of March 2011 04:08:28 PM

-- Edited by SOMERS on Tuesday 22nd of March 2011 05:35:25 PM

-- Edited by SOMERS on Tuesday 22nd of March 2011 05:54:07 PM

 

[Carey]

I would not advocate the use of mineral spirits at all for cleaning mold from the interior of a boat. Not only do you create a bomb using something that explosive, but there are real negative health effects. Someone has seriously misinformed you Somers.

Here is a cut and paste from the Material Safety Data Sheet on Mineral Spirits.

*"Potential Acute Health Effects:

Hazardous in case of skin contact (irritant), of eye contact (irritant), of ingestion, of inhalation. Slightly hazardous in case of

skin contact (permeator).

*Potential Chronic Health Effects:

CARCINOGENIC EFFECTS: Not available. MUTAGENIC EFFECTS: Not available. TERATOGENIC EFFECTS: Not available.

DEVELOPMENTAL TOXICITY: Not available. The substance is toxic to lungs, the nervous system. Repeated or prolonged

exposure to the substance can produce target organ damage."


The accepted means for mold removal is to scrub down with a solution of Clorox Bleach and water. 2 cups of bleach for each gallon of water. Do so in a well ventilated invironment and using fans, thoroughly dry all surfaces.

The serious consequences of living with mold definitely is real, but must it must be removed safely.*


-- Edited by Carey on Tuesday 22nd of March 2011 04:34:53 PM

-- Edited by Carey on Tuesday 22nd of March 2011 04:35:38 PM

-- Edited by Carey on Tuesday 22nd of March 2011 04:37:22 PM

 

[Carey]

Sorry, link didn't work.

http://www.fema.gov/library/viewRecord.do?fromSearch=fromsearch&id=3049

FEMA's booklet in mold removal is not a bad source.

-- Edited by Carey on Tuesday 22nd of March 2011 05:01:55 PM

-- Edited by Carey on Tuesday 22nd of March 2011 05:04:52 PM

 

[Tomas]

We are in the process of performing 20+ years of deferred maintenance on a 1976 Cheoy Lee 40 LRC. The first major problem was to rid the boat of mildew grown over years of neglect. We have had tremendous success with a product from Trask Research, Oxy Mold MX-501. We have used with a fogger as well as direct appiication with a garden spray.

Check out: http://traskresearch.com/

 

[hollywood8118]

Regarding mold abatement...
you may also want to look into ozone treatment... and not the little "bilge buster" units. Commercial ozone generators are used in flood areas to kill mold.** I do know that regarding mold treatment in houses .. bleach is not considered a totally effective mold killer ( I always thought it was ).* I still use bleach in lockers that get a little funky with good results.* Also one does need to be careful with ozone, it will harm some electronic devices and breathing high concentrations is bad for us too.
HOLLYWOOD

 

[FF]

White vinegar,,works , cheap and wont kill you.

The mold is really long in coming back.

 

[Peter B]

In fact white vinegar is an amazingly good cleaner all round. Does wonders for spots in the carpet at home as well.

 

[SOMERS]

On the 22 March 2011 there is a post *under my hand *that deals with the topic of "cleaning mould / mildew".

In good faith i offered a possible solution to the problem which apparently *was not determined to be the safest and best way to eliminate mould / mildew.

**In my post i did point our the health risk *dangers *of mould to humans, a classic example of this occurred *after Katrina which devastated*New Orleans.
*
*Japan will suffer the same consequences if not dealt with in a timely fashion.*

**Recently, their have been further contributions to the forum on the topic *which have merit.

**The topic *of Mould / Mildew *has from time to time been discussed on *the Trawlers and Trawlering *forum. *
*
*We *need to deal with this potential problem once and for all *and what i am looking for is " The Magic Bullet " . This must be safe and at the same time be effective.

*Mould sticks like glue.

Could it be that prevention is better than the cure.

**I live in a climate where there are more humid days than dry ones , i am not alone on this either, which requires us to seal up our boat to prevent the humid air and the mould spores *from entering.

Water in the bilges don't help matters.

**May be we should also debate to problem of Sea Grunge caused by the salt air when at sea.

*We are all entitled to our opinion and you do have a choice.

Mavis has canisters of damp / dry *all over our Mainship pilot.

How about *using Microfiber cleaning cloth *? That is a non chemical approach*

Air-conditioning with its associated costs, helps , *I believe that you are paying *$3.55 / gallon, we are paying $7.78 for gas *and $7.16 for diesel and that is the thin edge of the wedge.

*Your Turn !*

*Donald & Mavis
*
**

 

[Moonstruck]

Good morning, Donald.* I know of no magic bullet for mold.* The enemies of mold are sunlight, low humidity, a clean surface, and ventilation.* On a boat it is not easy to obtain a low humidiy condition.* However, you can ventilate and keep surfaces very clean.* The mold attaches to microscopic dust particles and feeds on it while taking moisture from the air.

For intermittent cleaning, we have found Chlorox Wipes to be a big help..* When cleaning, it is important to empty all lockers, wash all linnens, and wipe down every surface.* We have a similar situation in Florida and, can you believe it, at the mountain cabin.* The cabin is at about 3000' elevation is the shade of many trees.* We have to go up and do the same procedure to open up for the season.* Storing linens in plastic vacuum bags can keep them fresh.

A chlorine bleach solution*and sunlight is probably the magic bullet.* Keep the air turning over.* How about a couple of solar powered ventilation fans?*


-- Edited by Moonstruck on Wednesday 23rd of March 2011 07:39:35 AM

 

[JohnP]

A closed up boat and lack of ventilation is what mould likes the best.

It is difficult or impossible to leave a boat open while you are not there.
Security for one, and rain and weather is the real issue.

I am not am expert but I think mold likes still air to attach it self and multiply.

I have had great success leaving 2 oscillating fans running 24/7 when I leave the boat.
One in the salon, and the other in the head with the door open to the forward cabin.
The constant movement of air helps, and fresh air enters thru a hatch vent and other air leaks around the boat.

During the Summer I have a 120v bilge blower that draws from the lowest point in the bilge and expells on deck.

Air is the key for mildew, I do not need to run the ac unless I am onboard for comfort.

This system works for me.* JohnP

-- Edited by JohnP on Wednesday 23rd of March 2011 07:42:35 AM

 

[Flyguy1967]

Cloxox clean-up with bleach worked for me. Be sure the boat is well venelated but it cleaned the teak walls, closets, you name, it very well. The key is once clean, get a good dehumidifer. I'm amazed as to how much water that draws out of the air.

YMMV.

Brent

 

[FF]

"A chlorine bleach solution and sunlight is probably the magic bullet."

Chlorine may seem to remove what is on the surface but it does not work long term.

WE leave our boats for months at a time and have been able to observe the difference after 6 months with no one aboard.

Ventilation helps , however the only vent that seems to really keep the boat mold free is a rooftop turbine , as used on buildings.

Only the aluminum with sealed bearings (as sold by the sea shore stores) will last.

The galvanized is not suitable in salt.

 

[SOMERS]

Up to now it would appear that bleach is very high on the list if not at the top, but does require rinsing when done .

We use bleach to clean of the marine vegetation from my dinghy bottom, we don't bottom paint it.

Before we go away on vacation Mavis always wants to clean house she is one of those who always wants some thing to do ,also the house is shut down to keep the humid air our and the ceiling fans are turned on low ( more money ).

The point of the matter is that when we return after 3 weeks we find mould growing on some items leather shoes and belts however we also find mold growing on surfaces where our hands have touched, finger prints are oily.

Mavis uses 50 % white vinegar and water for the window sashes and on occasion Simple Green for the window sashes and frames mould comes from outside through doors and windows all you have to do is to look under the leaves of vegetation to see the black stuff growing.

Here are some more suggestions, the thought here is using drying agents, plants needs water mould needs water.

Make up rubbing alcohol wipes .

Store bought Clorox wipes. >>>>>>> credits due to another *=The Magic Bullet ".

*

The New" Microfiber " cleaning cloth wipes surfaces cleans without chemicals.*ie gets dust off my computer screen .

Good for all round cleaning with out chemicals .

*warning not to be used with clorox.

As amended, some recommendations were not practical.

*

*



-- Edited by SOMERS on Friday 25th of March 2011 06:11:01 PM


-- Edited by SOMERS on Saturday 26th of March 2011 06:25:23 AM

 

[SOMERS]

There is more , there is always more.

To attack mould.

For large areas contaminated with mould a commercial steam cleaner would cook the stuff.

Home made Vacuum bag for clothing and other fabric items.

Place folded clothes in large Green Garbage bag.
Insert vacuum cleaner hose to center of pile .
turn on vacuum , tie off when done in 3 seconds.

" Wood Dry Rot" is not dry to start with ! it is wet ! which turns into then mould which stays wet and rots the wood.
Clorox kills to mould on wood, it bleaches it also ? which requires rinsing when done.
A cheep wood preserver .

 

[Baker]

Personally, as long as the boat is kept clean and dry, would will not grow. I leave an AC/dehumidifier running. Don't have a mold problem.

 

[Carey]

Baker wrote:
Personally, as long as the boat is kept clean and dry, would will not grow. I leave an AC/dehumidifier running. Don't have a mold problem.

*Same here. I have only one little nook on the boat that doesn't receive enough air circulation, and will develop a little mold if I allow it. But I place a pillbox dehumidifier there for the winter, and the problem is solved.

Back to the bleach thing, I would add that FEMA is revising it's ratio of bleach to water from 1 cup of bleach per gallon, to 1.5-2 cups. *

 

[Keith]

Hydrogen Peroxide works well too. Standard store variety, or you get can 7% or so at a hair salon supply place.

 

[koliver]

Remember marin? always complaining about the horrid weather in Bellingham. Well mould lives there. and in Vancouver in the winter. So we deal with mould. My wife uses bleach and wipes every surface at least every spring. I use mineral spirits, followed by a coat of varnish, when the bleach doesn't do it any more. So far the varnish approach has only been necessary twice in the 16 yrs I have had this boat. Mineral spirits are less toxic than bleach. "use only in a well ventilated boat"

 

[Peter B]

What precisely do you US guys mean by mineral spirits? Do you mean what we call white spirit, otherwise called methylated spirits (meths), but which is really ethyl alcohol, or do you mean what we call turps or mineral turpentine, which is the thinner/cleaner used in most oil-based paints, or is it something else altogether? Maybe what we call kerosene...or kero, the fuel burnt in some heating/cooking/lighting appliances..?

 

[Moonstruck]

Here is a little system that has worked for us.* When we are in Florida the boat is stored inside a building.* This protects both the below waterline and the topsides from the ravages of nature.* In storage the boat can't be air conditioned and it is out of the wind.* Dark still air is a good place to grow mold.

We wipe down the woodwork (of which we have much) with Clorox Wipes* http://www.clorox.com/products/clorox-disinfecting-wipes/*.It is safe for interior wood surfaces.* Then we wipe on a product called Guardsman*

http://guardsman.com/wood-care.htm*

Guardsman is the same product we use at home.* It contains no waxes or silicones so it is safe for fine furniture.* It does not break down lacquer* as some products with silicones do.* Many of the far east trawler yachts were finished with lacquer.* Guardsman is not available everywhere, but Ace Hardware usually has it.*

Outside we use chlorine bleach diluted with water.* Any cheap chlorine bleach will do.* Name brands for this is just a waste of good money.

YMMV


-- Edited by Moonstruck on Friday 25th of March 2011 11:52:48 AM

 

[Baker]

Peter B wrote:
What precisely do you US guys mean by mineral spirits? Do you mean what we call white spirit, otherwise called methylated spirits (meths), but which is really ethyl alcohol, or do you mean what we call turps or mineral turpentine, which is the thinner/cleaner used in most oil-based paints, or is it something else altogether? Maybe what we call kerosene...or kero, the fuel burnt in some heating/cooking/lighting appliances..?

*

*I think the real term for the chemical is "denatured alcohol".

 

[boatdriver47]

Mineral spirits is basic cheap paint thinner, a petro distilate that falls between Benzine and Kero (I think)

 

[Tomas]

What precisely do you US guys mean by mineral spirits?


MIneral spirits is the primary ingredient of Paint Thinner, would guess you may call it mineral turpentine.

 

[SOMERS]

**I forgot**to mention what .........y'all call white lightning 479 proof*wipes which i believe *is a distillate made from corn; potatoes; *onions ; *broccoli , makes your eyes water and is stored in barrels *behind the police station.

*Not sure if it is legal these days.

*Cheers.


-- Edited by SOMERS on Friday 25th of March 2011 07:18:43 PM

 

[SOMERS]

MINERAL SPIRITS*Go to :-*www.sunnysidecorp.com.

*Also you may wish to go to :-**Fema mould

**There are several interesting web sights that deals with the matter of mould in great detail


-- Edited by SOMERS on Friday 25th of March 2011 09:10:20 PM

 

[FF]

Mineral spirits in the USA is thin higher refined kerosene , use as paint thinner.

 

[Peter B]

Then it must be what we in Aus and NZ call mineral turpentine. That is the universal oil-based paint thinner and clean-up agent here, except for epoxy type 2 pk paints of course, they need epoxy thinners.