Rustybarge
Guru
Wow, 188ltr @ wot producing 24hp/gal.
Impressive !
...and 10ltrs (2.2 gal)/ 6kts to give 2.7mpg, when I seem to remember a similar sized Nordy single got only 1.3mpg over 6000 miles.
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My take on the issue of twins vs single re; down side of twins. Cost more to buy and install twins.--crowds the motor compartment--is heavier--there is more maintenance cost and effort--harder to protect running gear--usually need two rudders--plumbing wiring cooling and filtration much more complex. The major up side is maneuverability and redundancy. I do not see the fuel burn as a significant issue.
I'd respond eyeshulman but I don't want to be the one thrown under the bus for being off topic. The topic is hull design and few posts have addressed that.
Re the question .. something to throw out here is that IMO most don't realize the wide range of SD hull design variations there is. Most of the people here that claim to have FD hulls (probably 75%) actually have SD hulls. That relates heavily to the question since the resistance of a SD hull that is very close to FD is going to have way less resistance than one that is almost a planing hull. For anyone really interested there is much posted on this on boatdesign.net. The hull shape of the stern mostly indicates what classification a boat should fall into. And there are a lot more planing hulls here than FD hulls IMO.
Again for scope the Willard 40 requires 23hp to make 7 knots.
So my in laws are not kidding when they claim that their Willard 40 uses no fuel!
I thought they were simply guilty of being enthusiastic about their boat...that and that at 84 years old perhaps they were showing signs of ...???
Bruce
Eyeshulman......Do you ever run your boat as a single, ie turn one engine off? Most Twin Disc gears will tolerate being freewheeled, although many other gear brands won't, in which case you'd have to immobilize the shaft somehow (PITA) . Running at 7+ knots hull speed, I use less fuel, run up less total engine hours, and give the on-engine more load, which is beneficial. I ran on one side the entire trip to SE AK and back this year without a hitch. The autopilot has to crank in counter rudder, but that's a non-event while traveling. Of course, while docking, anchoring or going through high current sections, I've got them both on. Have you tried doing this?
Reliability of an engine is somewhat determined by configuration and type. A naturally aspirated diesel is certainly more reliable than a turbo but suffers somewhat in efficiency. Loading of the engine and duty rating also contribute to reliability.
A naturally aspirated diesel is certainly more reliable than a turbo .
On my SD boat, at displacement speeds the turbochargers could fail and I would never know it.
Someone explain to me how adding a device like a turbocharger to increase power from a given engine doesn't make the engine work harder and thus increase maintenance costs and decrease engine life? Had the option to have a turbocharged JD4045 but elected the naturally-aspirated. (Current EPA requirements eliminates that option.) The NA engine provides plenty of power for my FD boat.
Someone explain to me how adding a device like a turbocharger to increase power from a given engine doesn't make the engine work harder and thus increase maintenance costs and decrease engine life? Had the option to have a turbocharged JD4045 but elected the naturally-aspirated. (Current EPA requirements eliminates that option.) The NA engine provides plenty of power for my FD boat.
BTW, what builder today makes a plus 150 hp non turbo Diesel engine?