Diver said prop has pink hue

[Art]

Everyone needs an isolator or an isolation transformer. The latter is heavy and expensive.

Or just leave your boat unplugged in the marina so when you want to go the engines won't start.

And don't forget to go through the bilge and fix the bad connects.

Yeah, this boat stuff is a lotta work -

Have to leave your boat un-attended/un-started/un-used for very long periods of time... to have the batts go totally dead... Or, new batts and new batt setup is needed.

Circumstances have required us to neglect our boats for up to 8 months. All batts remained well above 50%. We never leave our boat plugged into AC unless aboard for brief time at dock... to load-up and go cruising/anchoring.

 

[Delta Riverat]

I think I forgot to turn on the engine room charger after a training cruise. Only 1 time but the motors cranked very slowly, usually they start in 1 second.

 

[Art]

I think I forgot to turn on the engine room charger after a training cruise. Only 1 time but the motors cranked very slowly, usually they start in 1 second.

DR - You may have missed my point:

"We never leave our boat plugged into AC..." Meaning - We never leave our charger on!

You in Stockton CA? My avatar is in a Stockton water slough on the SF Delta. Couple weeks ago we cruised to San Rafael in SF Bay... where we're refurbishing/improving the our Tolly's inside and outside material/physical conditions/appearances.

 

[Comodave]

DR - You may have missed my point:

"We never leave our boat plugged into AC..." Meaning - We never leave our charger on!

You in Stockton CA? My avatar is in a Stockton water slough on the SF Delta. Couple weeks ago we cruised to San Rafael in SF Bay... where we're refurbishing/improving the our Tolly's inside and outside material/physical conditions/appearances.

I thought you were selling it???

 

[Art]

"You in Stockton CA? My avatar is in a Stockton water slough on the SF Delta. Couple weeks ago we cruised to San Rafael in SF Bay... where we're refurbishing/improving the our Tolly's inside and outside material/physical conditions/appearances."

I thought you were selling it???

Never said I wasn't selling it in paragraph on top.

Gotta make a 45 yr old boat pretty enough to sell; paragraph simply depicts the pretty-it-up sequence... before listing her! Especially seeing that for the last 14 yrs we simply used and enjoyed the heck out of her. Keeping our Tolly in covered berth and floating in freshwater made maintenance pretty much trouble free!

Way economy seems to be retracting I'm not too sure boat sales will keep running strong?? Buyers' market may be upon us - soon. If she does not sell at price I feel applicable... well... then we'll just have to take our friends cruising around SF Bay in a really nicely shined/cleaned and in good overall condition 1977 Tollycraft tri cabin that runs fantastic!

Planning to have my two workers complete the "pretty" work by early next week. I'll accomplish a couple of mechanical items by then too. Will list her thereafter and see what interest exists!

 

[Delta Riverat]

Boat is still in Alameda, going out tomorrow to do the port side fuel filters and the transmissions. Plan to take her to Stockton this Saturday. Was going for last Sat, but remembered "4th of July" and didn't want to deal with that crazyness -

You must be blessed with those batteries. I've got 2 in my Chris Craft 21 that were dead in 6 months with zero draw.

 

[Art]

Boat is still in Alameda, going out tomorrow to do the port side fuel filters and the transmissions. Plan to take her to Stockton this Saturday. Was going for last Sat, but remembered "4th of July" and didn't want to deal with that crazyness -

You must be blessed with those batteries. I've got 2 in my Chris Craft 21 that were dead in 6 months with zero draw.

Batteries in boats are as much discussed in TF as nearly any other marine item... such as; anchors, flying bridge, twin or single screw, D, FD or P hull design, gas or diesel engines... etc... etc. Delve into Search feature at page top and have a ball reading/learning!

 

[Steve DAntonio]

SDA, OK, but do you need an isolator if the DC and AC are not connected.
Yes I think in the abstract. The isolator is a needed add on because of the mandate to bond the two. One change requires another.
Hypothetically if the AC ground is not connected to the DC negative, would you need an isolator.

The AC safety ground and DC negative, and bonding system should be common, for the reasons I explained earlier, however, if they were isolated, then there would be no need for DC isolation in the AC safety ground, at least none that I could think of.

Did I mention the AC safety ground and DC negative and bonding system must be common?

 

[SteveK]

The AC safety ground and DC negative, and bonding system should be common, for the reasons I explained earlier, however, if they were isolated, then there would be no need for DC isolation in the AC safety ground, at least none that I could think of.

Did I mention the AC safety ground and DC negative and bonding system must be common?

Yes you did. Thanks for answering the question.

 

[Delta Riverat]

Batteries in boats are as much discussed in TF as nearly any other marine item... such as; anchors, flying bridge, twin or single screw, D, FD or P hull design, gas or diesel engines... etc... etc. Delve into Search feature at page top and have a ball reading/learning!

I'm sure the guy before me put in the cheapest batteries he could find. Which is what I'm going to do before I sell it if the anti sulfation drill didn't work.

 

[OldDan1943]

I'm sure the guy before me put in the cheapest batteries he could find. Which is what I'm going to do before I sell it if the anti sulfation drill didn't work.

Perhaps instead of buying new batteries, offer cash for reasonable batteries.
The new owner can take that cash, buy new batteries or take the cash and put towards a battery system he wants.

 

[Art]

In comparison to most boat owners, on this and other forums, I utilize considerably inexpensive FLA deep cycle and starter batts. Although I always make sure the batts are actually constructed by reputable battery manufacturer such as East Penn [which manufactures for many brand-name battery logos]

Important thing about most marine-use batteries [to get good service during their life and have them live the longest] is how well you maintain them and how smartly you use them.

Boat batt ownership is a whole different ball game than road vehicle batt ownership!

 

[OldDan1943]

Boat batt ownership is a whole different ball game than road vehicle batt ownership!

Yup, very different. Cant call AAA and have them deliver a new battery, in rolling seas.
Hello AAA, I need you to bring a couple of 8D batteries and install them.

 

[cardude01]

Any savvy marine electrical folks out there who can chime in and help?

Got to the boat last night and looking at some things. I brought a new galvanic isolator to the boat (pro safe fs60) because my existing ProMariner isolator is showing a green wire fault light and I read it could be the isolator failing (or something wrong at the pedestal?).

However, when I looked behind the AC panel I realized it’s going to be a chore to get the old one out and new one in because of the location. So I figured I would try to do some testing on the old isolator first using my silver chloride half cell. Should have done this first before buying the new isolator I realize, but I always do things backwards. ?

I found this video and did the test. With the silver chloride half cell plugged into negative on my multimeter and placed in water about 1’ deep and 3’ away from boat, and the positive lead placed on the bonding bus.

Results:
Shore power cord plugged in -.875 vdc.
Shore power cord unplugged from pedestal -.882 vdc.

So about the same. Does this mean the isolator I have is working OK? That appears to me what the video says. Or, is this inconclusive or maybe the wrong test altogether?

Test starts at 1 minute in
https://youtu.be/28hGQ74V5Gw

I also am planning to use this silver cell to attempt to check the bonding system to check to see if zincs are working correctly. This boat has zinc anodes and not aluminum, which in this fresh water is what I need I’ve heard. I did bring a big grouper aluminum anode I can hang over the side and connect to the bonding system.

 

[Each finger a marlinspike]

That fault might be that there is not a good ground on the shore power connection. I believe if your galvanic isolator is bad the bottom light would be red.

Ground Wire RED:
Indicates that the ground wire (green wire) is not connected to the shore properly. The fault can
be caused by the green wire being open or disconnected, by a bad connection at the galvanic
isolator, shore cord plug, dock plug or even the metal tip of the plug itself not making good
contact. It can also be caused by the ground wire not being connected to the neutral back on
the dock {a requirement under the N.E.C. (National Electrical Code)}

 

[cardude01]

That fault might be that there is not a good ground on the shore power connection. I believe if your galvanic isolator is bad the bottom light would be red.

Ground Wire RED:
Indicates that the ground wire (green wire) is not connected to the shore properly. The fault can
be caused by the green wire being open or disconnected, by a bad connection at the galvanic
isolator, shore cord plug, dock plug or even the metal tip of the plug itself not making good
contact. It can also be caused by the ground wire not being connected to the neutral back on
the dock {a requirement under the N.E.C. (National Electrical Code)}

So I should tell the marina that the problem is on their end? At the pedestal possibly?

 

[OldDan1943]

So I should tell the marina that the problem is on their end? At the pedestal possibly?

Good luck with that.
Start out with, "may I suggest....."

 

[cardude01]

Good luck with that.

Start out with, "may I suggest....."

Ah yes. Good idea with the diplomacy. Do marinas never think it’s their problem?

 

[OldDan1943]

Ah yes. Good idea with the diplomacy. Do marinas never think it’s their problem?

Of course, it costs money which reduces the profits to the owner(s)

 

[Each finger a marlinspike]

So I should tell the marina that the problem is on their end? At the pedestal possibly?

I would rule out a problem between the pedestal and your boat first.

Turn off the power at the boat and pedestal. Disconnect your shore power cord from the pedestal. With the cord plugged into the boat, measure resistance with your ohm meter between the ground plug on the cord (end that plugs into pedestal) and the grounding connection going into the galvanic isolator. It should be less than 1 ohm.

If your cord and plug on the boat are good, then it's probably a marina problem.

 

[cardude01]

I would rule out a problem between the pedestal and your boat first.



Turn off the power at the boat and pedestal. Disconnect your shore power cord from the pedestal. With the cord plugged into the boat, measure resistance with your ohm meter between the ground plug on the cord (end that plugs into pedestal) and the grounding connection going into the galvanic isolator. It should be less than 1 ohm.



If your cord and plug on the boat are good, then it's probably a marina problem.

Thanks!

No resistance at cord. Light still on.

 

[bglad]

Read my answer again If you have AC and DC aboard it would be wise to have an isolator...

Read my question again.
If you isolate DC from AC would you still need a galvanic isolator?

 

[Steve DAntonio]

If your current GI has that indicator panel, it's probably not of the fail safe variety, and thus not ABYC A-28 compliant, I'd change it. The new one is. Also, those GI's with the indicator panel are notorious for tripping dockside RCD breakers.

The best GI test procedure I've encountered is here https://marinehowto.com/testing-a-galvanic-isolator/

Lying Little Port Walter, Baranof Island, AK

 

[cardude01]

If your current GI has that indicator panel, it's probably not of the fail safe variety, and thus not ABYC A-28 compliant, I'd change it. The new one is. Also, those GI's with the indicator panel are notorious for tripping dockside RCD breakers.



The best GI test procedure I've encountered is here https://marinehowto.com/testing-a-galvanic-isolator/



Lying Little Port Walter, Baranof Island, AK

Thanks for that article. I will try to replace the old GI tomorrow, if I can get to the damn thing. It’s buried. Smh.

 

[cardude01]

Thanks for that article. I will try to replace the old GI tomorrow, if I can get to the damn thing. It’s buried. Smh.

Ok got the new one installed after much sweating and cursing. ?

This seems like a dumb question, but how do I know when this new isolator is working without the monitor panel like the old one had?

If this new one fails will my AC circuits not work?

 

[Comodave]

What does the new manual say about the failure indications? It should tell you how to know when it has failed.

 

[cardude01]

What does the new manual say about the failure indications? It should tell you how to know when it has failed.

Strangely it says nothing. I will consult the Google.

 

[Art]

Strangely it says nothing. I will consult the Google.

Ahhhh - there we go! Artificial Intelligence: "The Google"... humanly activated to capture millions of inputs... by the simple push of the computer button "enter"!

 

[Comodave]

What one did you put in?

 

[cardude01]

ProMariner ProSafe FS60

I tested the new isolator using my silver cell and multimeter, and the readings were the same both plugged into shore power and unplugged, so I’m assuming it’s working.

I guess to check to see if it’s not working I have to do the silver cell test every time? I think I like the idea of a monitor better, but I don’t think they are used with any of the new fail safe galvanic isolators.