Gulfcoast filter

[Lostsailor13]

I already have installed the gulfcoast f1 fuel filter and it worked so good was thinking of adding oil bypass filter as well,anyone with one installed i have a few questions i noticed they used to make the jr model it was for a roll of toilet paper but discontinued the smaller model and now have the o1 model for engines under 250 hp,what i also found was another company that uses the gulfcoast design and is call jackmaster anyone use or heard of them

 

[balder8]

I already have installed the gulfcoast f1 fuel filter and it worked so good was thinking of adding oil bypass filter as well,anyone with one installed i have a few questions i noticed they used to make the jr model it was for a roll of toilet paper but discontinued the smaller model and now have the o1 model for engines under 250 hp,what i also found was another company that uses the gulfcoast design and is call jackmaster anyone use or heard of them

Hi,
I am certainly one of the rare trawlers cruising in european waters with Gulf Coast Filters and polishing fuel system. I am very happy with these products and recommand them. Of course when I needed to order from US new filters, it was a little bit expansive. I understood the possibility to insert roll of paper and order these Bounty from Wallmart. I am also certainly the only guy who is importing a full packet of Bounty roll papers from America!!!
I do not know about jackmaster but the plastic system with a sock used by original Gulf Coast filters can be installed several times with new roll of paper.
Below, install of my oil polishing system on a John Deere 6081 AFM75 heavy duty, fuel polishing system acting like a transfer pump for the three tanks, and the two prefilters with a jauge for the engine. Note that the box for oil filter is smaller, but the roll of paper is same size as diesel filters. The difference is the space let to collect water in diesel GFC filters.
As Mr Steve D'Antonio explained so well, polishing means only filtration. After a very poor experience with a small centrifugal separator in France, I am now installing a new Westfalia OTC2 centrifuge in addition of GFC polishing system.

 

[Mako]

Is it true that with the oil filter you no longer have to fully change oil, just top up and change filters? Plus regular oil analysis of course.

 

[balder8]

Is it true that with the oil filter you no longer have to fully change oil, just top up and change filters? Plus regular oil analysis of course.

Honestly, I consider this oil filter as a +. But I always replace my oil and filter installed on the JD engine every year.

 

[catalinajack]

Honestly, I consider this oil filter as a +. But I always replace my oil and filter installed on the JD engine every year.

Whether it needs it or not?

 

[Mako]

That’s a good question Jack. I’ve always learned to just follow the manufacturer’s direction. That’s all that’s needed - no need to overkill.

 

[sunchaser]

Balder
Is there much ash where you keep your vessel?

 

[Comodave]

I think you still need to check the additives in the oil. But they say it will extend oil changes a long time. You change the filter element and have to add oil for the oil that was left in the filter element. So there are some new additives in the make up oil. I would still do an oil sample at the recommended oil change interval to see how the oil is doing.

 

[Lepke]

I've used bypass filters since 1961. They clean the oil much better and allow longer times between changes if you test your oil. When the original toilet paper filter came out, people with gas engines were going 100,000 miles in their car before changing oil. And oil was still clear. I don't remember the interval for changing the paper, but I think 2000 miles. The cheap TP worked best. 10 rolls for a dollar, then. You can still find the Frantz filter online.

I've probably used most bypass filters made, but never Jackmaster. Looks like a big TP filter. I know fleets using Gulf Coast or similar, testing their oil, and going much longer between oil changes, I think 50,000-100,000 miles. There is a brand that uses 2 rolls of Bounty that works well, can't remember the name. It's commonly used by truckers. I know several truckers going more than a million miles before a rebuild. But if you keep up the filter changes on any bypass filter, you get less wear because the debris in the oil is much smaller. Also fuel is much cleaner with less debris. I use a 2 micron filter and haven't changed an injector in about 10 years. Some years 500+ hours on the mains.

I use a stand alone centrifuge now and never change my oil, just add as needed Detroits), and test about every 500 hours. Last oil change was 10 years ago. 2 Detroits and 2 generators, that's a lot of oil not bought. Excellent oil tests from oil before cleaning. If I test centrifuged oil it comes back new or near new. Last time I tested centrifuged oil I got a call asking why I was testing new oil.

 

[catalinajack]

I've used bypass filters since 1961. They clean the oil much better and allow longer times between changes if you test your oil. When the original toilet paper filter came out, people with gas engines were going 100,000 miles in their car before changing oil. And oil was still clear. I don't remember the interval for changing the paper, but I think 2000 miles. The cheap TP worked best. 10 rolls for a dollar, then. You can still find the Frantz filter online.

I've probably used most bypass filters made, but never Jackmaster. Looks like a big TP filter. I know fleets using Gulf Coast or similar, testing their oil, and going much longer between oil changes, I think 50,000-100,000 miles. There is a brand that uses 2 rolls of Bounty that works well, can't remember the name. It's commonly used by truckers. I know several truckers going more than a million miles before a rebuild. But if you keep up the filter changes on any bypass filter, you get less wear because the debris in the oil is much smaller. Also fuel is much cleaner with less debris. I use a 2 micron filter and haven't changed an injector in about 10 years. Some years 500+ hours on the mains.

I use a stand alone centrifuge now and never change my oil, just add as needed Detroits), and test about every 500 hours. Last oil change was 10 years ago. 2 Detroits and 2 generators, that's a lot of oil not bought. Excellent oil tests from oil before cleaning. If I test centrifuged oil it comes back new or near new. Last time I tested centrifuged oil I got a call asking why I was testing new oil.

I just did an oil analysis on my Chevy Duramax, 661 hours on the oil, through a by-pass filter head. Oil reported still good to use.

 

[costalive]

I've used bypass filters since 1961. They clean the oil much better and allow longer times between changes if you test your oil. When the original toilet paper filter came out, people with gas engines were going 100,000 miles in their car before changing oil. And oil was still clear. I don't remember the interval for changing the paper, but I think 2000 miles. The cheap TP worked best. 10 rolls for a dollar, then. You can still find the Frantz filter online.

I've probably used most bypass filters made, but never Jackmaster. Looks like a big TP filter. I know fleets using Gulf Coast or similar, testing their oil, and going much longer between oil changes, I think 50,000-100,000 miles. There is a brand that uses 2 rolls of Bounty that works well, can't remember the name. It's commonly used by truckers. I know several truckers going more than a million miles before a rebuild. But if you keep up the filter changes on any bypass filter, you get less wear because the debris in the oil is much smaller. Also fuel is much cleaner with less debris. I use a 2 micron filter and haven't changed an injector in about 10 years. Some years 500+ hours on the mains.

I use a stand alone centrifuge now and never change my oil, just add as needed Detroits), and test about every 500 hours. Last oil change was 10 years ago. 2 Detroits and 2 generators, that's a lot of oil not bought. Excellent oil tests from oil before cleaning. If I test centrifuged oil it comes back new or near new. Last time I tested centrifuged oil I got a call asking why I was testing new oil.

Lepke,

I like would to know your opinion on the Spinner II bypass filter and what would you use instead of it (for a 12v 71n)

Thank you

 

[balder8]

Balder
Is there much ash where you keep your vessel?

Hi Sunchaser,

I do not want to biaise the thread but to give you a clear answer, we take care and keep an eye 100% open with what is going on in La Palma, the very close islands where Cumbre Vieja is still very active with lava entering now in the water. We expected one month ago, book a berth in Puerto Tazacorte on the west side of La Palma but there was no space available for my 60' trawler so I decided, fortunately to go to Santa Cruz de Tenerife! Presently, winds coming from NE so no ash at the moment but this can change...
There is some debate concerning the american theory of a big tsunami which should seriously damage the east coast of US and further North, not considering destruction of Canaraias islands, coasts of >Spain Portugal and also south of UK. BBC english TV network produced a documentary about this, but many scientists answered: fake news... I hope so!

 

[balder8]

That’s a good question Jack. I’ve always learned to just follow the manufacturer’s direction. That’s all that’s needed - no need to overkill.

Yes that's true but we use our trawler on a blue water mode, most of times offshore so, as an ex sailor, I prefer have a security maximum and all back up systems ready...
As well, we keep too much diesel in our three tanks ( 8600 L) and I am afraid of starvation. Very typical of leisure powerboats or trawlers: many hours running in a short period of time when travelling from point A to point B and after, sleeping mode in a marina for some months...

 

[catalinajack]

That’s a good question Jack. I’ve always learned to just follow the manufacturer’s direction. That’s all that’s needed - no need to overkill.

As to oil changes, the manufacturer's recommendation does not consider whether oil analysis is being used to determine when to change oil.

 

[mvweebles]

I already have installed the gulfcoast f1 fuel filter and it worked so good was thinking of adding oil bypass filter as well,anyone with one installed i have a few questions i noticed they used to make the jr model it was for a roll of toilet paper but discontinued the smaller model and now have the o1 model for engines under 250 hp,what i also found was another company that uses the gulfcoast design and is call jackmaster anyone use or heard of them

Frantz has been around for a long time.

https://www.frantzfilters.com/

I'm not sure I get the point of installing a bypass oil filter on a recreational trawler vs commercial vessel. Ratio of boats with above/below an arbitrary 5000 hours is probably 1:50, perhaps 1:100. I just don't recall a trawler owner wearing-out an engine let alone an instance due to old oil. Something else kills recreational diesels......such as a blown oil hose to an aftermarket bypass filter.

Peter

 

[sbman]

Frantz has been around for a long time.

https://www.frantzfilters.com/

I'm not sure I get the point of installing a bypass oil filter on a recreational trawler vs commercial vessel. Ratio of boats with above/below an arbitrary 5000 hours is probably 1:50, perhaps 1:100. I just don't recall a trawler owner wearing-out an engine let alone an instance due to old oil. Something else kills recreational diesels......such as a blown oil hose to an aftermarket bypass filter.

Peter

My Detroit 671's require 8 gallons of oil each to change. With some top-off supply that means carrying 20 gallons of it on board to be ready for a change. It would be really nice to decrease the change interval for a number of reasons, including cost of oil and simply wasting oil that still could be used. If I was able to do a filter change and oil analysis every 100 hours, with fluid changes as directed by the analysis that would be worthwhile endeavor in my book. Using a high quality set of lines would minimize the chance of a blown oil line, my full flow filters are already on remote mounted lines.

 

[Lepke]

Lepke,

I like would to know your opinion on the Spinner II bypass filter and what would you use instead of it (for a 12v 71n)

Thank you

I know someone that had a spinner II and replaced it with a stand alone centrifuge. The speed of the spinner II is controlled by engine oil pressure thru a nozzle causing the spin. Higher oil pressure=higher rpm. So if you have low oil pressure like old Detroit, maybe 25#, you don't get as much cleaning as an newer engine with 80#. A hack is to use a separate oil pump that will cause a much higher centrifuge speed. The spinner II is an improvement over the stock filter, and probable cleans as well as most bypass filters. But you have to remove the top and scrape out the debris. I understand there's a model that replaces the part with the debris and newer models include a paper filter.
I think I would rather have a bypass filter and just change the filter rather than the cleaning. There are models (https://www.amsoil.com/c/bypass-oil-filtration-systems-mounts/32/l) that are spin on filters like full flow filter. If I was going to buy a bypass filter, I'd probably buy a Amsoil, Kleenoil or Gulfcoast. They all clean down to below 5 microns. Kleenoil Bypass Oil Filter System - Bypass Oil Filtration - Home
The person that had the spinner II has a stand alone centrifuge like mine and observed more cleaning in 10 minutes than the spinner in continuous service. That's why I bought mine. I wanted clear oil. My Detroits are 1947 models and the stock filter is a bypass. (Probably why they lasted so long.) So between centrifugings the oil stays somewhat golden transparent. The stock bypass filter gets changed rarely. Thinking of adapting a newer style filter.

 

[costalive]

I know someone that had a spinner II and replaced it with a stand alone centrifuge. The speed of the spinner II is controlled by engine oil pressure thru a nozzle causing the spin. Higher oil pressure=higher rpm. So if you have low oil pressure like old Detroit, maybe 25#, you don't get as much cleaning as an newer engine with 80#. A hack is to use a separate oil pump that will cause a much higher centrifuge speed. The spinner II is an improvement over the stock filter, and probable cleans as well as most bypass filters. But you have to remove the top and scrape out the debris. I understand there's a model that replaces the part with the debris and newer models include a paper filter.
I think I would rather have a bypass filter and just change the filter rather than the cleaning. There are models (https://www.amsoil.com/c/bypass-oil-filtration-systems-mounts/32/l) that are spin on filters like full flow filter. If I was going to buy a bypass filter, I'd probably buy a Amsoil, Kleenoil or Gulfcoast. They all clean down to below 5 microns. Kleenoil Bypass Oil Filter System - Bypass Oil Filtration - Home
The person that had the spinner II has a stand alone centrifuge like mine and observed more cleaning in 10 minutes than the spinner in continuous service. That's why I bought mine. I wanted clear oil. My Detroits are 1947 models and the stock filter is a bypass. (Probably why they lasted so long.) So between centrifugings the oil stays somewhat golden transparent. The stock bypass filter gets changed rarely. Thinking of adapting a newer style filter.

Lepke,

What you said makes soo much sense.

The 12v 71N that I am thinking about buying is 1973 vintage - engine removed and toatally rebuilt 2 years ago, very few hours. It probably is in the catagory of older Detroits with the lower oil pressure. I read the spin on filters filter somewhere between 1 and 5 microns, as you mentioned "below 5 micron". What I like about the Spinner II is it claims filtering down to 1/10 of a micron. I realize that claim is probably with a lot higher oil pressure than older designed Detroits at 25#'s of oil pressure. I am thinking the hack of using a oil pump (after the full flow filter and before the Spinner II?) is an interesting solution. I wonder does the oil presure releaf valve on the full flow filter release a constant flow of oil or does it vary? Why I am concerned is would the "hack" oil pump suck open the relef valve on the full flow filter and cause it to not work as designed creating a problem?

Why I am trying to make the Spinner II work is because of the filtration to 1/10 of a micron. As far as having to clean the canister I enjoy seeing what it is taking out and to what extent it is working, I guess I am wierd as I used to cutt open all my filters on my last boat. Another issue is I like that the Spinner II does it continuiously as the engine is running. I realize the stand alone centrifuge does a superior job but using the Sinner II would save me the extra step of centrafuging the oil after the engine stops if that is when you use the stand alone centifuge. I am thinking the Spinner II would be doing a good enough job if I can get its rotation speed up.

I have learned so much from your posts I can't thank you enough and hope this is not to elimentary for you.

 

[FF]

Regardless of how good the oil filtration , I think its wise to carry 2 or 3 oil changes on board .

A busted exhaust manifold or oil cooler could fill the engine or a cylinder with water, and multiple oil changes are required .

Stuff does happen.

 

[mvweebles]

Who among us has worn out a diesel in a recreational trawler? Assuming there is someone, how much longer would thr engine have gone if it had ultra-filtration (1/10th micron!!!)?

That said, point about reducing expense of oil changes is a good one, though I thought DDs were capable of perpetual oil changes due to frequent addition of make-up oil.

 

[catalinajack]

Regardless of how good the oil filtration , I think its wise to carry 2 or 3 oil changes on board .

A busted exhaust manifold or oil cooler could fill the engine or a cylinder with water, and multiple oil changes are required .

Stuff does happen.

And don't forget to have a full set of replacement electronics just in case of a lightning strike.

 

[Mako]

Following to FF and Weebles, yes still some oil onboard for both makeup and to change the Allison gear. That’s about 1.5 gallons if I remember right.

If those 12V-71’s have been running for 50 years then the advantage to the additional bypass filter would be saving the cost of about 8 gallons of lube. Probably take 10+ oil changes to pay for the bypass. So what’s the payback period?

 

[Lostsailor13]

The payback period would be the clean oil constantly running through your engine,and not only that but also the oil pump and oil cooler with 96 percent less contaminants running thru them,for me its a no brainer,i actually like the system fr9m frantz its 300 bucks for everything the hose,mounting bracket,fittings,everything,ill have one installed for next season

 

[O C Diver]

Who among us has worn out a diesel in a recreational trawler? Assuming there is someone, how much longer would thr engine have gone if it had ultra-filtration (1/10th micron!!!)?

There are probably few people who have worn out an engine. That said, there are probably a fair number of people who have had to replace a turbo. Turbos live and die partly based on the quality and cleanliness of the oil. The price of a turbo (not counting the install labor) would cover a quality bypass filter and lifetime supply of elements.

As the country goes to tier 4 diesels, almost all new engines come with a diesel.

Ted

 

[Lepke]

Lepke,

What you said makes soo much sense.

The 12v 71N that I am thinking about buying is 1973 vintage - engine removed and totally rebuilt 2 years ago, very few hours. It probably is in the category of older Detroits with the lower oil pressure. I read the spin on filters filter somewhere between 1 and 5 microns, as you mentioned "below 5 micron". What I like about the Spinner II is it claims filtering down to 1/10 of a micron. I realize that claim is probably with a lot higher oil pressure than older designed Detroits at 25#'s of oil pressure. I am thinking the hack of using a oil pump (after the full flow filter and before the Spinner II?) is an interesting solution. I wonder does the oil pressure relief valve on the full flow filter release a constant flow of oil or does it vary? Why I am concerned is would the "hack" oil pump suck open the relief valve on the full flow filter and cause it to not work as designed creating a problem?

Why I am trying to make the Spinner II work is because of the filtration to 1/10 of a micron. As far as having to clean the canister I enjoy seeing what it is taking out and to what extent it is working, I guess I am weird as I used to cut open all my filters on my last boat. Another issue is I like that the Spinner II does it continuously as the engine is running. I realize the stand alone centrifuge does a superior job but using the Sinner II would save me the extra step of centrifuging the oil after the engine stops if that is when you use the stand alone centrifuge. I am thinking the Spinner II would be doing a good enough job if I can get its rotation speed up.
I have learned so much from your posts I can't thank you enough and hope this is not to elementary for you.

The hack is either adding it in line to the Spinner II or adding a fitting in your pan and drawing oil from there and add another fitting in another part of the pan or oil filler to return the oil. Not much oil goes to the Spinner or a bypass compared to what goes to the engine. The nozzle hole might only be 1/16". You'd probably need 100 psi or more to the Spinner II. The faster rotor speed increases the velocity the debris hits the bowl, causing smaller particles to embed, too. How small, I don't know. You might ask Spinner II people about this. On ships the centrifuges ran about 15,000 rpm. I could make the oil clear.

The pressure relief valve overflow is constant at a steady speed. The oil pump has to deliver more oil than the engine needs to ensure it has enough. Probably better to take oil from an oil port than the relief valve return. If the hack pump causes a pressure drop, the pressure relief valve will adjust.

For me the centrifuge was the next step after bypass filters. I've had good luck running clean oil and fuel that led to more hours between rebuilds than other people running the same engines in similar boats. My boats, boats I ran for others, and people I rebuilt engines for that did things my way. Detroits are mechanical with lots of parts other engines don't have. Clean oil helps in many ways that aren't obvious.

 

[Lepke]

I just don't recall a trawler owner wearing-out an engine let alone an instance due to old oil.

I have.

 

[Handcrafter]

I found a great engine oil filtration setup from AMSOIL in Superior Wisconsin. It's a dual filter arrangement with one being full flow and the other being partial flow-bypass. The two 671N Detroits in my Viking Sportfish use T3 Rotella 40 wt oil with the 20 micron full flow filter and fine filtration for the bypass filter. Those engines never had such clean oil running through them and it's true that regular filter changing and topping off oil keeps that oil nice and clean. A side note mention is that one is always adding oil to those Detroits. Compare indefinite oil use to manufacturer's recommendation of changing oil every 50 hours.
PS The head engineer at MAN, the company which bought Detroit, advises only use of straight 40 wt oil.....non-synthetic as those engines create so much soot they'll consume all those good guy additives quickly leaving oil that doesn't lubricate critical engine parts.
So yes, go for the dual filter arrangement with full-flow AND bypass filters.

 

[clyde]

on the Gulf Coast filters, I had 2 of them, the ones that use the BOUNTY Paper towels we got at COSTCO! one for oil, the other for fuel! Both mounted as bypass filters. Normal screw on Fuel/Oil filters filter down to about 28 to 32 microns, paper towels filter down to 1 to 1.5 microns!

 

[ttompkins]

Gulf Coast Filter

I have had my Mainship for 12 years now. Have been running Gulf Coast by-pass oil filter on it for over 11.5 years. Best $700 I have ever spent. I change my on engine oil filter when I change out the Gulf Coast filter. Add 1.5 gal of makeup oil. This takes care of the additives. I have Gulf Coast check my oil every year. Reports are good, Love it.

 

[costalive]

The hack is either adding it in line to the Spinner II or adding a fitting in your pan and drawing oil from there and add another fitting in another part of the pan or oil filler to return the oil. Not much oil goes to the Spinner or a bypass compared to what goes to the engine. The nozzle hole might only be 1/16". You'd probably need 100 psi or more to the Spinner II. The faster rotor speed increases the velocity the debris hits the bowl, causing smaller particles to embed, too. How small, I don't know. You might ask Spinner II people about this. On ships the centrifuges ran about 15,000 rpm. I could make the oil clear.

The pressure relief valve overflow is constant at a steady speed. The oil pump has to deliver more oil than the engine needs to ensure it has enough. Probably better to take oil from an oil port than the relief valve return. If the hack pump causes a pressure drop, the pressure relief valve will adjust.

For me the centrifuge was the next step after bypass filters. I've had good luck running clean oil and fuel that led to more hours between rebuilds than other people running the same engines in similar boats. My boats, boats I ran for others, and people I rebuilt engines for that did things my way. Detroits are mechanical with lots of parts other engines don't have. Clean oil helps in many ways that aren't obvious.

Hi Lepke,

I feel the way you are centrifuging your oil is a superior way and I might just default to your solution because of the benefits of being able to use the same centrifuge “US Filtermaxx” to clean my fuel too, probably close to the same cost of the oil pump assisted Spinner II 596 by the time you are done. But, I did want to follow through with my questions with Spinner II and share the information.

Spinner support told me for the DD12v 71N there are two models that they would suggest both 2 gallons per minute. The 996 reusable metal rotor/bowl rotates on bushings top and bottom and the 596 plastic disposable rotor/bowl rotates on bearings top and bottom. The plastic disposal rotor/bowl was lighter, had bearings on top and bottom, and would spin faster used for the installation on lower oil pressure engines.

He suggested that adding an electric oil pump 50 - 60 psi would overcome the lower oil pressure issue, approximate rotor/bowl rotation 6500 rpm with SAE 40 oil. Using this installation he made reference to: disconnecting the float bowl inside the Spinner II 596, then intake oil from the drain plug, drain plug to the oil pump input, oil pump output to the Spinner II 596 input, and out of the Spinner II 596 to the cam inspection plate with a 1” pipe fitted to it or some place similar on the engine. “Cam inspection plate would need to be modified with 1 inch pipe”. Return oil has to be gravity fed to the cam inspection plate so mount the Spinner II 596 higher than the cam inspection plate with a 1 inch tube from Spinner to cam inspection plate.

I didn’t think 6500 rpm’s was that much and asked how much continuous psi could the Spinner take reliably. He said, 105 psi. According to their graph 100 psi would rotate the plastic disposable rotor at a solid 9000+ rpm using SAE 40.

Thanks for helping me get to the bottom of this.