Roca windhield wiper leaks

[Portage_Bay]

Roca wind shield wipers leaking on new to me boat. I returned to the boat after some heavy rain to find leaks. Reasonably sure it is the wipers. Found by crawling under the dash.

Checked the wipers and found a rubber boot torn and lock nuts loose enough to be able to wobble the spindles and the plate.

Tightened the lock nuts. Now looking for the rubber boots, not shown on the parts breakout. And some way to seal the plate, also not shown on the parts breakout.

Any and all suggestions on how to seal the plate and where to find parts most appreciated.

 

[sunchaser]

Yes to a new boot, maybe a call to mfr? But I’d guess that is a composite area so double check that core rot due to leakage hasn’t set in. If at all soft you’ll have to re-bed the area.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. PB. Ditto on the new boot BUT it may simply be replaced with a section of rubber gas line IF it's a straight piece. Goop the inside of the gas line with grease to assist sealing. Suggest removing plate and applying butyl tape then tighten down plate. It will have to be done again and butyl tape will make it easier to re-remove than a layer of caulking.

 

[Portage_Bay]

The manufacturer is in Sweeden, hoping to find a good source in North America. Agree the core needs to be protected. But at this point not too worried about it. The boat was kept under cover by the two POs. I need to control the leaks before any damage is done.

Yes to a new boot, maybe a call to mfr? But I’d guess that is a composite area so double check that core rot due to leakage hasn’t set in. If at all soft you’ll have to re-bed the area.

 

[Portage_Bay]

The boot is not a straight piece. But if I can't find an OEM boot your idea is worth a try.

Butyl tape under the plate. I like that. I don't like having to take the wiper motors out to do that. It involves cramming this old body into a tight twisty area under the dash. Maybe the spindles are long enough I can back the lock nuts off enough to lift the plate, clean the gel coat and get the butyl tape in place.

Greetings,
Mr. PB. Ditto on the new boot BUT it may simply be replaced with a section of rubber gas line IF it's a straight piece. Goop the inside of the gas line with grease to assist sealing. Suggest removing plate and applying butyl tape then tighten down plate. It will have to be done again and butyl tape will make it easier to re-remove than a layer of caulking.

 

[Bmarler]

The boot is not a straight piece. But if I can't find an OEM boot your idea is worth a try.

Butyl tape under the plate. I like that. I don't like having to take the wiper motors out to do that. It involves cramming this old body into a tight twisty area under the dash. Maybe the spindles are long enough I can back the lock nuts off enough to lift the plate, clean the gel coat and get the butyl tape in place.

The motor should stay in place when you seal the plate. Butyl will definitely fill any void where the spindles come through if you get good coverage on the plate.
The seals remind me of valve stem seals like these: https://www.amazon.com/Competition-..._NhGWuOfHeCN1MzTfzFAv-VO4p4om8VRoC_4QQAvD_BwE

 

[Bmarler]

I meant to add, you really should take the plate all the way off so you can be sure of good coverage of the butyl. I’d bet you’ll be cussing the whole time if you try to leave it partly assembled.

 

[Portage_Bay]

I hope you are right about the motor staying on place. But I don't see anything other than the lock nuts on the spindles holding it in place. It was quite loose until i toghtened the locknuts.

Thank you for the idea of the valve stem seals. Sometimes it's knowing what a thing is called to be able to search for it.

The motor should stay in place when you seal the plate. Butyl will definitely fill any void where the spindles come through if you get good coverage on the plate.
The seals remind me of valve stem seals like these: https://www.amazon.com/Competition-..._NhGWuOfHeCN1MzTfzFAv-VO4p4om8VRoC_4QQAvD_BwE

 

[Portage_Bay]

I hope you are right about the motor staying on place. But I don't see anything other than the lock nuts on the spindles holding it in place. It was quite loose until i toghtened the locknuts.


Thank you for the idea of the valve stem seals. Sometimes it's knowing what a thing is called to be able to search for it.

The motor should stay in place when you seal the plate. Butyl will definitely fill any void where the spindles come through if you get good coverage on the plate.
The seals remind me of valve stem seals like these: https://www.amazon.com/Competition-..._NhGWuOfHeCN1MzTfzFAv-VO4p4om8VRoC_4QQAvD_BwE

 

[kchace]

It looks to me like part #10 Rubber cap is the “boot”?

 

[Comodave]

It looks to me like part #10 Rubber cap is the “boot”?

Agree. It is listed as Rubber Cap. Try ordering some of those and see if it is correct.

 

[Portage_Bay]

I think you may be correct. I've found a North American source and will order them. I'll also order part #11 the rubber gaskets. Unfortunately those are a 7 to 8 week lead time. Maybe I'll get luck and the 'gaskets' are O-rings which can be found elsewhere.

Along with RTF's suggestion of butyl tape under the plate should get these leaks under control before any damage to the core.

Thank you all for your input!

It looks to me like part #10 Rubber cap is the “boot”?

Agree. It is listed as Rubber Cap. Try ordering some of those and see if it is correct.

 

[RT Firefly]

Greetings,
Mr. PB. I don't think part #11 that is labeled "rubber gasket" is an o-ring. If it was it would not allow you to tighten the nut (#12) hard against the plate.


This would be MY approach: Remove wiper arms. Loosen both nuts to the extent of the threads on the spindle and jamb a shim (thin wood) under the plate sufficient to hold the plate proud of the gelcoat. Cram butyl tape in, under and around the plate using a screwdriver or similar. Tighten the nuts on the spindles. Loosen off ONE nut at a time and form the tape into a "string" around the spindle then tighten that one nut again. Repeat for second nut. Lubricate between shaft and spindle. Replace rubber boots with whatever.

An alternative to the "string" around the spindle might be a goodly gob of Rectorseal #5.



What this will do (I think) is seal under the plate, the hole the spindle passes through AND the threads which are the only places I can see water leaking in.


I've only had 4 cups of coffee, thus far, so hopefully you can understand these instructions...