SteelHead ES1000 no power

[Graeme Walker]

Unit was installed on my Bayliner 4788, sorry not a Trawler, back in ~2013 by previous owner, never had an issue. This summer it stopped working and hydraulic fluid was coming out of the power unit, turned out to be a leaking manifold, steel stud in aluminum block, who knew steel/aluminum don't play friendly! Had a local hydraulic company disassemble, install new seals and studs, refill with fluid. Unit worked for five second and then stopped. Now no power at the hydraulic pump, breaker is on but nothing happens. Is there another breaker/fuse that might have tripped? Going to replace the breaker, currently a 10amp but I've never had a breaker fail before. Thoughts?

 

[Comodave]

Where is the breaker you say is on? If it is at the unit there could be a breaker at the distribution panel. Breakers can go bad but it is fairly rare. Check the electrical connections at the breaker and see if the breaker has power coming into it. Then check the output side of the breaker and see if it has power coming out of it. That will tell you if the breaker is bad or not.

 

[Graeme Walker]

Should have clarified, breaker is on the panel. Plan to check tomorrow.

 

[dhays]

Steelhead Marine Service

 

[Summitgrpinc]

Unit was installed on my Bayliner 4788, sorry not a Trawler, back in ~2013 by previous owner, never had an issue. This summer it stopped working and hydraulic fluid was coming out of the power unit, turned out to be a leaking manifold, steel stud in aluminum block, who knew steel/aluminum don't play friendly! Had a local hydraulic company disassemble, install new seals and studs, refill with fluid. Unit worked for five second and then stopped. Now no power at the hydraulic pump, breaker is on but nothing happens. Is there another breaker/fuse that might have tripped? Going to replace the breaker, currently a 10amp but I've never had a breaker fail before. Thoughts?

I have a Steelhead 1500 and have owned several boats with Steelhead Davits.
The breaker is the main on off switch but typically turns on to the unit with a disconnect (different types and styles), somewhere in between. Typically, they are located in the equipment areas of the boat...engine room, lazerette companionways.
Additionally, the pump is activated directly from the handheld remote control. There are numerous wires (easy to break) are in the cable between the remote control and the pump head and valve system. If one of these wires breaks, you will loose control to pump with some functions working and some not. Still should hear the pump engage.

Find the disconnect to the davit and determine circuit has all propert continuity. If that is all good, make sure disconnect is getting power out to the control and the pump. Some disconnects have a circuit breaker type, some are simply on and off switches.

Hope this helps.

Daniel J. Kiefer
M/V: Miss Ann
55' Altima P/H

 

[Mac2]

I had the same battle with my SM 2500. Working one second then dead the next. I had the panel breaker and an in-line breaker near the manifold. Both not tripped. Traced power to the davit. By pure chance, when playing with the wires leading to the Deutsch connector, one wire came disconnected. Bingo! It was the power wire. Looking closer I could see the telltale green color that comes from corroding copper. In was where the wire entered the back of the rubber gasket on the Deutsch connector-no possible way of seeing where the wire connects to the quick connect fitting. Due to having to repair the connector, I ordered a second Deutsch connector and did a “Y” off the wiring for a Kar-Tech remote control. I got the idea from the blog site “Dirona around the world “. Wonderful site. Couldn’t be happier with the remote and wish I had done it sooner.