Costs to paint

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This thread is even more evidence why so many prefer plain unpainted aluminum boats.

Actually not that many plain unpainted aluminum boats out there in comparison to either gel coated or painted fiberglass boats.
 
Actually not that many plain unpainted aluminum boats out there in comparison to either gel coated or painted fiberglass boats.

Sure, and for various reasons, like some are not cost conscious. And I noticed the guy wasnt compaining about the price, $45k for a paint job!
 
That is a really great breakdown you've given me. The shop owner actually said they apply a sealer so I took that to mean a clear coat, but maybe he means different. I'll ask him again about the procedure. Thanks for taking the time to educate, I really appreciate it. I really would like to do the work myself but up here in BC the weather is to unpredictable and the summers are to short.


Sealer in painters terms is a base coat applied before topcoat to get the entire surface one color and seal in other paints. If the painter made repairs and used a primer/surfacer (common in auto body repairs) he would want a sealer to get a uniform color before top coat.


Sealer is not clear.
 
To add to the confusion, Awlgrip has a new product, Awlgrip HDT, which they claim is as durable as Awlgrip but repairable. You should read the instructions on the repair procedure before trying is yourself, but it is another choice.
 
The price is not that important unless the work sucks. A car paint job can be $30k. Material costs are crazy. Break the job down in sections so you have an exit strategy if needed. Only give down payment for each section if at all.

I have shot Imron and Awlgrip. Imron can be buffed, but it is a bitch. We have also buffed Awlgrip.

Of the two, Imron is harder but more flexible. To explain, it is very impact and scuff resistant, but will move with the base to a point, depending on temperature. Perfect for Corvettes. Imron sprayed on a wet floor makes plastic sheets.

Awlgrip once dry feels slick. This makes it tend to shed dirt and water. It can chip on impact. Very hard to buff and get back to the original gloss. So it is considered hard to repair. Both products dry withe same reflectability as glass, so they show defects. A good finish will be shinier than a new car.

I would choose Imron. If done right should last the life of the boat with a little care.

As a note your contract needs to be super detailed. Detail what is to be done and used at each step. Break each step down to a cost and completion date.

Example:
Prep:
25% of total cost, to be completed in five weeks to owners approval. Imron primer coat per factory spec sheet. Repairs per attached list.

Top coat
25% Imron color xxxx, three color coats and two clear top coats. To owners approval. To be completed in ten working days.

Final:
Final:
25%
Rebed all fittings per owners instructions attached per owners approval. To be completed in ten working days.

15% holdback for final inspection.
10% bonus if prefect. I add this on top of their quote. Gets management attention your serious.

Note you must state you can terminate contract at any point. That way if work turns to crap you pull the boat. **** happens. Have an exit strategy. Confirm insurance covers boat while there.

The longer the paint lasts the harder to unscrew mess ups. Needs to be shot indoors on a cool day, no wind, prefer two days after a rain.

The more time you spend watching them the better the job. Buy the workers a lunch or two, pizza, burgers, etc. Know their names! You want them to want to do a good job for you. Be quick to point out problems. Easier to fix early than late.

Don't come on site and bitch, if you like it say so. If you don't, figure away to say and illustrate what you want. If your like me and picky, tell them up front.

The devil is in the details.
I require in the contract the date they spray each part. That way I get a chance the day before to examine every inch of the boat.

I also like to watch them spray. Great learning experience.

If you admire good work, it's hard for a craftsman not try to meet your standard.
 
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Suggest you schedule a meeting with Philbrooks, Delta or Blackline in Sidney. to talk about paints, procedures and costs. You've gotten some great advice but a double check on the "do it" shop may prove insightful.

Also, insure all paint work is done indoors with a perfectly dry hull as the starting point. The temperature range for spraying is an important factor with poor work resulting if not carefully followed, an issue in the PNW.

BTW, my first Awl Grip experience was over 40 years ago on a 36' woodie. The paint looked great 10 years later when I sold the boat. Some seam movement was nicely re-touched about 6 years after the professional paint job.
 
I've posted some pictures of our boat under boats afloat for anyone interested and I'll post some along the way when she goes in the shop, before and after. Thank you again to everyone who weighed in and gave their advice
 
A quick note, I would not paint a boat myself. I have painted many show cars, furniture, cabinets, etc.

I have not tried the newer paints, they have not been out long enough.

But a boat is too much work, overhead, weather, etc. Not worth it.

Spend your time making sure they meet your satisfaction.
 
No more painting.
 

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I had a quote pf 25K to paint my 52 foot Woodie. before reading this post I thought that was expensive.

next spring going to Home depot to get the best paint and brushes i can get and start prep and paint.
 
I had a quote pf 25K to paint my 52 foot Woodie. before reading this post I thought that was expensive.

next spring going to Home depot to get the best paint and brushes i can get and start prep and paint.[/QUOT

Maybe Tremclad
 
it would an amazing painter to duplicate the look.

Its not clear what you mean. The point is that no painting is required since it wont rust.
 

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Paint

That is a little over $36,000US and that is a pretty good price. We are in the market for a full paint job too (thread pending). We had a job booked here in NC that was quoted at $40k (plus about $10k for unexpected issues we would probably find) for our 42’ Navigator. I have started to look in FL thinking that perhaps the competition may provide a better price, but so far the only quote we have been given in FLL was for over $80,000… so THAT’S no going to happen.

We are wanting Alexseal from the positive pitch from Andy on the Boatworks Today YouTube channel. It can be buffed and reapplied easily. Something that Interlux and the others cannot. It also will provide the flattest coat from just rolling. But a professional will spray… so we hope for even better results.

I had my entire hull repaired and awlgripped for $7500 and it looks fantastic. A company called “Fiberglass fix” in Pensacola, Fl did it. I could have had the entire boat (including my glass decks) done for about $28,000.
 
Paint job

This past winter I just had my 1979 Mainship 34 painted. Flag blue, with a red water line stripe. They used Imron. All cracks re glassed, primed, two coats of Flag blue, two coats of clear. Looks great my cost for the 34 ft hull was $23,000. I thought this was a good price with all the repair, prep, and painting. I am very satisfied.
 
Its not clear what you mean. The point is that no painting is required since it wont rust.

was joking. it would be difficult to paint natural aluminum look.
 
I had a quote pf 25K to paint my 52 foot Woodie. before reading this post I thought that was expensive.

next spring going to Home depot to get the best paint and brushes i can get and start prep and paint.

Sounds a bit rich unless it's really really bad and needing extensive sanding filling and priming

We get waterline to deck done every 2nd lift and labour and materials cost about $3k at most.
Mind you, we just get quick machine sand, spot fill and prime and a coat of Jotun enamel roll and tip.

Deck up will be more labour intensive with bulwarks, eaves etc
 
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Sounds a bit rich unless it's really really bad and needing extensive sanding filling and priming

We get waterline to deck done every 2nd lift and labour and materials cost about $3k at most.
Mind you, we just get quick machine sand, spot fill and prime and a coat of Jotun enamel roll and tip.

Deck up will be more labour intensive with bulwarks, eaves etc

the 25K was from the waterline up including deck and all external surfaces.
 
Some prefer boats that need treatment just from the waterline down.

wrapping her in aluminum may be an option. she can handle the additional weight.
 
A quick note, I would not paint a boat myself. I have painted many show cars, furniture, cabinets, etc.

I have not tried the newer paints, they have not been out long enough.

But a boat is too much work, overhead, weather, etc. Not worth it.

Spend your time making sure they meet your satisfaction.

We painted our last boat and saved over $21K, I think it was worth it. Besides I enjoyed doing it.
 
I had a quote pf 25K to paint my 52 foot Woodie. before reading this post I thought that was expensive.

next spring going to Home depot to get the best paint and brushes i can get and start prep and paint.

I know a man with a boat built of pine which he rolls with household exterior latex if I remember right. Perfection was far from his goal.

I painted a wooden Grand Banks 42 with Awlgrip for a couple of decades just rolling and tipping. Most folks through she was a glass hull. Dings on the hull were easily enough fixed because the beveled joints in the hull strakes gave a natural break. The newest paint began to look like the older paint after a "wearing-in" phase. Painting the cabin and upper works was quite simple because all those surfaces leant themselves to single-day jobs with no visual overlaps where years old paint could be noticed against brand new paint. One year I built a barge and painted the whole hull myself while the boat was afloat, and it cost around 500 bucks.

This red hulled Pilot is Awlcraft coated, and I would never attempt to paint or touch it up because I don't have the skills needed to make a broad hull area look right. I watched watched a true technician sand a section of my hull with I inherited from the PO as iffy. It was rub rail to waterline on one side of the bow and back two feet along the hull. It was miraculous in my view as he sanded down to light gray primer followed by two coats red Awlcraft and a coat or two of clear and them blended it in. I was surprised to find out from him that the boat hull was clear coated. $2000 bucks for that job. It still looks great today as I applied the semi-annual coat of Awlcare.
 

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wrapping her in aluminum may be an option. she can handle the additional weight.
Wonder if heavy duty aluminum cooking foil would work Maybe Mr. Wellington, unpainted aluminum enthusiast, knows a good source in wide sheet form. Shiny or dull side out?
 
thank you for giving me some inspiration.

the roll and tip method scares me not sure i can ever master that. i like the fact that i can do section by section while anchoring in an Atoll at the south pacific. no hurry. stock up on paint and alcohol should be good to go.


I know a man with a boat built of pine which he rolls with household exterior latex if I remember right. Perfection was far from his goal.

I painted a wooden Grand Banks 42 with Awlgrip for a couple of decades just rolling and tipping. Most folks through she was a glass hull. Dings on the hull were easily enough fixed because the beveled joints in the hull strakes gave a natural break. The newest paint began to look like the older paint after a "wearing-in" phase. Painting the cabin and upper works was quite simple because all those surfaces leant themselves to single-day jobs with no visual overlaps where years old paint could be noticed against brand new paint. One year I built a barge and painted the whole hull myself while the boat was afloat, and it cost around 500 bucks.

This red hulled Pilot is Awlcraft coated, and I would never attempt to paint or touch it up because I don't have the skills needed to make a broad hull area look right. I watched watched a true technician sand a section of my hull with I inherited from the PO as iffy. It was rub rail to waterline on one side of the bow and back two feet along the hull. It was miraculous in my view as he sanded down to light gray primer followed by two coats red Awlcraft and a coat or two of clear and them blended it in. I was surprised to find out from him that the boat hull was clear coated. $2000 bucks for that job. It still looks great today as I applied the semi-annual coat of Awlcare.
 
I know a man with a boat built of pine which he rolls with household exterior latex if I remember right. Perfection was far from his goal.

.
Latex does work, we have stuff on ours that has gone 4 years now

Not the way I wanted to do it but I am wanting to protect what we have and stop it going backwards, paint from deck up was in poor condition when we got her 5 years ago.
Looks fine from 100 feet away

Our original plan when we bought this one was to be in Thailand now and there she would have had a team put on her for sanding, priming and enamel topcoat.
$30/day for skilled painters/sanders there
Covid scrapped that for now so we have been in protection and conservation mode.

Deck down still gets the gloss enamel treatment every 2nd lift
 

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the 25K was from the waterline up including deck and all external surfaces.

I gathered that but still seems a lot of coin.
Out of interest, what does a timber house cost to paint?
 
I gathered that but still seems a lot of coin.
Out of interest, what does a timber house cost to paint?

LOL believe it or not my house has aluminum siding all around. my son who is a painting contractor did it for 2k.

true story its painted naval ship grey a neighbor stopped by and wanted to know where was i stationed in the navy.

I just realized my house is better suited for this discussion than my boat.
 
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