55 gallon drums as replacement fuel tanks?

[CharlieO.]

I did not install a transfer pump.
I don’t polish my fuel, It runs to my Racor then my cartridge filters on the engine.
I used a graco six port fuel valve to switch which tank I want to draw/return fuel.
I did build a platform to put my cube tanks on.

 

[psneeld]

I had 2 plastic tanks of 56 gal each and just had a manifold between them. Drew from one to a point, then the other. No need to transfer between them.

Built a flat platform for the tanks to sit on.

 

[Greg QS]

My thoughts are simply safety , Storing large volumes of fuel is dangerous . Gas or diesel . There is a reason they have all these rules and regulations. To keep people alive.

I think we all have an inherent responsibility to take Propper care of our vessels for the safety of our passengers.

I think all passengers that are invited on any private or commercial vehicle, ( train, BOAT, plane ) have the right to assume some level of safety.

I'm glad to see you chose the correct path.

 

[ERTF]

For those that cut out their tanks, what length blade did you use? On another thread I saw somebody say they used 9", but i only see negatives with that vs a 6".

Also did you not use a grinder at all? If i cut it open and make sure there is not a puddle of diesel, is it still too dangerous to use a cut off wheel? With the engines so close it's hard for me to forsee how i can do it all with a sawzall.

 

[CharlieO.]

I did not use a grinder. Pretty sure I used 6” Diablo blades for heavy steel. Changed them often. I think I used around 10-15 blades for both tanks. choose not to struggle with dull blades.
My only regret when I pumped my tanks out was not filtering on the way out. I did filter before I put the fuel back in. But it wouldn’t have to filter it twice. I didn’t have any problems with the fuel though.

 

[psneeld]

Grinder would have been pretty miserable throwing/blowing stuff around a confined space.

My procedure was probably similar to CharlieO's and number of blades used.

Burned up 2 Harbor Freight large swazalls, bought a one handed Rigid 110V that finished one tank and did the whole next one. I have abused that saw for the last 10 years or so ....highly recommend it for it's lightness and toughness.

 

[ERTF]

Yeah I was gazing at my harbor freight sawzall last night like a couple soldiers pre battle. "One of us might not make it thru this."

How thick was the steel? They have a medium blade rated for 1/8 max and a thick blade rated for 3/16 minimum.

 

[PNK]

ERTF,
You may want to check out this TF thread from a year or so ago:

GB 36 classic twin diesel fuel leak

My husband and I have noticed a small pooling of diesel fuel accumulating in front of the fuel tanks, between the outboard hull stringer and the hull. We have investigated, and so has our local boat yard, but we have not been able to find the source of the leak. We are speculating, based on what...

www.trawlerforum.com

The OP had a GB36 with fuel tank leaks, but the post you should read is from Calypso, who replaced the tanks on his Island Gypsy, also and older model, and also with the tanks outboard of the engines. He did it from the outside of the hull, and provides a lot of detail of exactly how he did it.

It may be more doable than you have been thinking, and to me, at least, have new but like-original tanks will serve you better over the long term than plastic drums, etc.

I was looking at a boat very similar to yours, but eventually decided the logistics of doing everything from the opposite coast made it too difficult and costly. But that is a really nice boat, and your peace-of-mind will make it worth doing the job right for however long you keep the boat, and should also make it easier to sell if you ever get to that point.

Good luck, whatever you decide.

Peter

 

[ABfish]

I like big rig tank suggestion. Most are aluminum and they're extremely durable and tough. Most have a circular strap hold-down setup and would be easy to adapt to a boat. I assume they're baffled. I've driven a Class 8 truck a fair amount, and I've never heard the fuel sloshing.

Adapting the fill could be an issue, unless the fills are standard pipe thread.

There's liability in every setup, regardless of certification. The last time I saw a bilge full of fuel, it was due to a leaking fuel cooler.

 

[ERTF]

ERTF,
You may want to check out this TF thread from a year or so ago:

GB 36 classic twin diesel fuel leak

My husband and I have noticed a small pooling of diesel fuel accumulating in front of the fuel tanks, between the outboard hull stringer and the hull. We have investigated, and so has our local boat yard, but we have not been able to find the source of the leak. We are speculating, based on what...

www.trawlerforum.com

The OP had a GB36 with fuel tank leaks, but the post you should read is from Calypso, who replaced the tanks on his Island Gypsy, also and older model, and also with the tanks outboard of the engines. He did it from the outside of the hull, and provides a lot of detail of exactly how he did it.

It may be more doable than you have been thinking, and to me, at least, have new but like-original tanks will serve you better over the long term than plastic drums, etc.

I was looking at a boat very similar to yours, but eventually decided the logistics of doing everything from the opposite coast made it too difficult and costly. But that is a really nice boat, and your peace-of-mind will make it worth doing the job right for however long you keep the boat, and should also make it easier to sell if you ever get to that point.

Good luck, whatever you decide.

Peter

If my only 2 choices were between spending nearly $40k and cutting giant holes in the side of my boat vs repurposing drums, I would absolutely have drums in my boat and I'm pretty sure they could be made to work just fine. For example, there was alot of talk about baffles, but for aluminum tanks they dont even put in baffles until 30" in length. And the official plastic tanks I ordered are 45" with no baffles. Resale value? Personally, I'm not renting my boat for the next guy. It's a depreciating asset and i'm fine with that. I use it how I want and don't fret for a second when I put a mark on the gelcoat. But even if I cared about resale, in no world is anybody getting back more than a fraction of a giant bill like that. That's before even accounting for the opportunity cost of what that amount of coin would compound over an extended period of time. But whatever the man wants to spend on his boat is fine by me!

For $2k I can get 200 gal of plastic moeller tanks that hopefully can just slide in without even moving my generator. There will be some additional costs making a platform and adding manifold valves / fuel fills. The yard cost is $0 cause it can be done on anchor at my leisure.

Apparently, the going rate for custom aluminum is $21-23 per gallon (more than double off the shelf plastic). With this route I could have maintained more tankage, so in reality the total cost would have been over 3X more than plastic. They would have been more ideal with interconnections, drains, and easier to frame...but not worth 3X personally.

The final selling point for me on the plastic tanks is I found a long/tall/narrow 50g tank that I think can just barely fit end to end. I probably just jinxed myself, but if that indeed works then I will free up enough additional space outboard of the engines that I should have close to 17" to crawl around, as opposed to the current situation where all I can do is lay over the engine and reach down because the heat shield is right there. Furthermore, there are a couple thru hulls installed next to the current tanks that even I cannot contort myself to fully reach. I am 6'2 and 160 soaking wet. It's safe to say that if I can't, then almost no man can. I am happy to trade 150gal of tankage for greater access.

I managed to find a seller with the best price, free shipping, AND allowed free returns to walmart. So I ordered 2 and will see if the puzzle pieces fit together as I hope. But first I have alot of cutting to do.

 

[Mako]

... who replaced the tanks on his Island Gypsy, also and older model, and also with the tanks outboard of the engines. He did it from the outside of the hull, and provides a lot of detail of exactly how he did it.

It may be more doable than you have been thinking, and to me, at least, have new but like-original tanks will serve you better over the long term than plastic drums, etc.

Perhaps if you had a steel hull, especially one without a mirror-smooth LP paint finish, then you could consider this route. I wouldn't do it with aluminum left unpainted. And absolutely forget about it with a fiberglass hull. For the amount of effort, you'd be better off just lifting the engines off their beds and replacing the tanks then lowering them back down.

 

[Sig Machi]

Need to replace both diesel fuel tanks on my Marine Trader 44. Willing to sacrifice tankage for easer and cheaper. A plastic marine fuel tank in the 55 gallon range costs over $10/gallon. A clean used plastic 55 drum costs $10. I could comfortably finagle 2 drums horizontally outboard each of my engines. Either way I will need to buy/build some sort of frame, plus necessary hoses. So for the cost of $40 plus some additional fittings I would have 220 gallons. As opposed to over $2200 for the offical plastic tanks.

Tell me why this wouldn't work?

Just asking a question don't crucify me!

You, of course, must be joking...aren't you?

A few deleterious points in using "used plastic drums:"
1. No baffles in them.
2. Possible chemical deterioration from fuel.
3. Not USCG approved.
4. Could "extinguish" any insurance coverage by not using USCG approved tanks.
5.If there is any fuel leakage, fire, harm to any person or thing...by posting this question (and if you follow through with your proposal) you have possibly just confessed to "gross negligence."

Call you insurance underwriter.

Good Luck.

Alan
M/V SIGMACHI