Boarding ramp

[fryedaze]

Our new slip has pilings that are 15-18" in diameter. They keep the boat away from the dock decking. At high tides it makes getting on and off the boat a challenge.
I am in the process of building a ramp. It is 3' long and hinged. There will be a piece of high density poly where it sits on the dock. The box that sits on the cap is lined with neoprene. It is a snug fit. The ramp will have nonskid in the varnish and cleats on the ramp. It will only be down while in use to prevent any destruction from the boat moving with wind and wakes. One of my crew has no lower peripheral vision so the ramp will make things safer.

 

[Mac2]

Well done. Great design! How is that hinge mounted? Screws or through bolted? Since that is the load bearing point I would add some through bolts if you havn't already. Point of contact with the dock is the rub area that will constantly be moving around (as if sanding the dock). You mentioned high density poly. Do you mean Starboard? If so, that will provide a very slippery surface (good) to prevent wear. Another strip of starboard on the underside of the ramp would give even more protection and make it even more slippery for side to side movement. Adding a couple of cart wheels to the ramp would do the same thing if you planned on a permanent solution.

 

[fryedaze]

Well done. Great design! How is that hinge mounted? Screws or through bolted? Since that is the load bearing point I would add some through bolts if you havn't already. Point of contact with the dock is the rub area that will constantly be moving around (as if sanding the dock). You mentioned high density poly. Do you mean Starboard? If so, that will provide a very slippery surface (good) to prevent wear. Another strip of starboard on the underside of the ramp would give even more protection and make it even more slippery for side to side movement. Adding a couple of cart wheels to the ramp would do the same thing if you planned on a permanent solution.

The hinge side that ties to the box on the cap is screwed. Those screws are under shear stress. The hinge side on the long length to the dock is through bolted through 3/4" ply and an additional 7/8" teak. The poly is not Starboard and it is on the back, not the walking surface. Through bolting the top didn't work well due to clearance to the boat. Counter sinking them would have eliminated half the thickness.

 

[Mac2]

I will be curious to see if the ramp evolves to something more permanent. I had Marquipt stairs stored on my boat for two years before I finally mounted them on the boat. I wanted to kick my own ass for not mounting them sooner as they made boarding (especially with groceries) so much easier/safer!

 

[fryedaze]

Time will tell

 

[Deano]

I will be curious to see if the ramp evolves to something more permanent. I had Marquipt stairs stored on my boat for two years before I finally mounted them on the boat. I wanted to kick my own ass for not mounting them sooner as they made boarding (especially with groceries) so much easier/safer!

I did the same thing. Glad to finally started using it. Made life so much easier.

 

[O C Diver]

Very nice!

My only concern with the incline would be how slippery it is when wet. Maybe some nonskid adhesive strips to step on when wet.

Ted

 

[fryedaze]

Very nice!

My only concern with the incline would be how slippery it is when wet. Maybe some nonskid adhesive strips to step on when wet.

Ted

I added a nonskid additive to the last coat. The ramp has six coats of Urethane spar varnish. I will let the varnish harden in the sun for a few days before we try it out.

 

[Comodave]

I would put a series of small cleats on the top similar to what you have on the bottom. It will make it much less likely to slip on.

 

[fryedaze]

I would put a series of small cleats on the top similar to what you have on the bottom. It will make it much less likely to slip on.

The ramp is only 3' long and has 4 cleats. Not sure what you mean by the top. All the walking surfaces are nonskid.

 

[O C Diver]

The ramp is only 3' long and has 4 cleats. Not sure what you mean by the top. All the walking surfaces are nonskid.

He's referring to the surface where the non skid is.

I hadn't realized you had non skid as it blended in so well.

Ted

 

[Mac2]

I thought the same thing when viewing the initial photos (traction bars looked like they were on the bottom). Final product looks great-almost to nice to walk on

 

[luna]

Although some of the pictures appear to be taken prior to cleat and finish installation, the original text clearly infers that the cleats and non skid are on the side that you would step on.
If you look at the grain structure of the lumber used for the ramp, you will also conclude that the walking surface has the cleats.

Our new slip has pilings that are 15-18" in diameter. They keep the boat away from the dock decking. At high tides it makes getting on and off the boat a challenge.
I am in the process of building a ramp. It is 3' long and hinged. There will be a piece of high density poly where it sits on the dock. The box that sits on the cap is lined with neoprene. It is a snug fit. The ramp will have nonskid in the varnish and cleats on the ramp. It will only be down while in use to prevent any destruction from the boat moving with wind and wakes. One of my crew has no lower peripheral vision so the ramp will make things safer.View attachment 155601View attachment 155602View attachment 155601

The pictures the OP provided yesterday further confirm that the cleats are on the walking surface.

Looks like a good design and a craftsman like build. Hopefully the ramp provides many years of service. Something tells me the person who provided the need for the ramp is more than just "crew."

Assuming this ramp stays in place even underway, I would be interested in your design of the mechanism for hoisting and locking it in the up position.

 

[Mac2]

Although some of the pictures appear to be taken prior to cleat and finish installation, the original text clearly infers that the cleats and non skid are on the side that you would step on.
If you look at the grain structure of the lumber used for the ramp, you will also conclude that the walking surface has the cleats.

Damn! Forgot to look at the grain structure. First picture shows cleats on ramp. Second picture shows ramp mounted-no visible cleats on walking structure. I assumed cleats were on the bottom for support. Wonder if OP added additional support/cleats after original photos.

 

[fryedaze]

Damn! Forgot to look at the grain structure. First picture shows cleats on ramp. Second picture shows ramp mounted-no visible cleats on walking structure. I assumed cleats were on the bottom for support. Wonder if OP added additional support/cleats after original photos.

The cleats are only on the walking side and are there to prevent slips. The cleats are glued and screwed sitting in routered channels.

 

[Comodave]

My mistake, I thought the cleats were on the bottom. Having them on the top should be great. I had a ramp for one of my dogs that weighed 122 pounds. I did just nonskid and he would slip and slide. I added cleats and he did fine.

 

[fryedaze]

I researched to figure out how far apart the cleats should be. All the Internet would tell me is how far apart cleats on a chicken coup ramp should be

 

[fryedaze]

Final install

 

[Mac2]

Fantastic! Well done! When are you going to start taking orders