Hendo's Randall 35 Cray Boat complete rebuild, Perth, Western Australia

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Pfffft lol

Anyone that strips a boat to its keel and rebuilds it is hardly afraid of a paint job :)

Sometime after the splash I'm hoping to post the results of my beer cooler inspection live from the duckboard of Solstice. :thumb:
 
:speed boat:Matt me Matie!


Couple things about black... although it is in many instances a strikingly beautiful color:


- Solar rays love to heat up black. Sunny days in general, i.e. reflections off the water for the hull; flat out straight on rays for top sides. Boat's insides can get really HOT!
- Black cars are difficult to keep looking really clean - boats too. Black easily displays white salt streaks.
- When black goes dull for any reason in any portion that shows noticeably when sun reflects onto it.
- I imagine that black color is a hard color to spot by search planes... if ever necessary.
- Depending on the background... Black often makes things look smaller that lighter colors because it absorbs light.


IMHO - Although black is one of the most strikingly beautiful colors for a boat hull or sides of its superstructure that color's heat absorption on sunny days is just too much. For decks it's a flaming no, no.


Think carefully on color choices for SOLSTICE. Flic should be good counsel on that... you guys final boat appearance is one of the items that will make her very happy to have been part of the choice.


Happy Color Choice Daze! - Art :speed boat:


PS: Don likes everything that's hot! - LOL


Flic loves the look of MOONSTRUCK. So much she wants SOLSTICE to be the same. I 2nd her thoughts but with a twist. We haven't signed off on the colours yet but the two choices are

1.) Black hull, white superstructure and a metallic silver/tungsten roof frieze.
2.) Black hull, silver superstructure and tungsten/gunmetal grey roof frieze.


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Following Moonstruck's color of choice may be a mistake. While Don seems to get away with pink, methinks the blokes in Perth may see it as an opportunity to take the p*ss.


Lol time will tell


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One possible option Matt is vinyl wrap for boats. I've seen a few 'go fasts' that have been wrapped and they look amazing! Don't like the colour a few yrs from now easy 'nuff to change it.

http://vinylboatwrap.co.nz/vinyl-boat-wrap-faqs/

Might be worth looking into if you can find an installer in your area.


Yeah thought about that halfway through sanding and fairing. Not for me tho unfortunately because I'll still need to paint the boat first so I might as well paint it the colour I want first :)


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Pfffft lol

Anyone that strips a boat to its keel and rebuilds it is hardly afraid of a paint job :)

Sometime after the splash I'm hoping to post the results of my beer cooler inspection live from the duckboard of Solstice. :thumb:


Lol just another step in the process brother!

You'd be very much welcome mate!


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Well production has decreased significantly due to that pesky "work" thing I have to do and only managed 2hrs before it got dark. Still tho, I managed to do the roof above one of the windscreens and some repair work to an external radius on the cabin.
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Talk about a "Bird's Eye View"!! :thumb:
 
Talk about a "Bird's Eye View"!! :thumb:


Lol thats my mate. He and he's friends that I have yet to remove from the boxes will assist in scarring of seagulls and hopefully save SOLSTICE from getting covered in bird sh*t when on the mooring.


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Lol thats my mate. He and he's friends that I have yet to remove from the boxes will assist in scarring of seagulls and hopefully save SOLSTICE from getting covered in bird sh*t when on the mooring.


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I found... after many years and attempts with different items... that very thin, different color ribbon wafting/fluttering in the breeze does best to repel birds. How and where it is fastened very-near-to bird shat opportune locations is another subject. :facepalm: :D


PS: Good quality ribbon can last for years of flutter with no fraying.
 
Who'd have thought working out a functional and aesthetically pleasing pattern for non-slip coatings would be so bloody hard.. Well I think I've come up with something that will work on the cabin. I also did a bit of sanding and filling and a bit of a clean up for my guest Mr B (that I met on here) tomorrow.
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Non skid everything apart from a tape width around hatches and fittings is how I have done everything in the past.
Can never have enough nonskid and, it hides a multitude of sins.
 
Who'd have thought working out a functional and aesthetically pleasing pattern for non-slip coatings would be so bloody hard...

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Obviously - not you! Kidding aside... Can't you simply keep surface uniformly san paper roughened to creating a tooth hold for high quality paint, in color of choice, with sand added for a non-skid sandy finish?

I recently made our 92 yr Matriarch's house "disable friendly" by building ramp entry to her front door. Used high-grade exterior plywood and painted it three coats. Second coat I liberally sprinkled in 100 mesh sand. Third coat made it look good. Pretty easy to get uniform surface that is virtually non skid. I imagine by playing with (experimenting with) quality marine paints and different mesh sands you may be able to easily concoct a process that is easy to apply and good to look at... as well as being durable for years of "safe" enjoyment. Best Luck! :thumb:
 
I see a lot of sins on our roof top and w/o hand rails I'm lik'in the thought of non skid. But moving the dinghy around on non skid dos'nt compute very well. Especially since the dinghy now is a rubber ducky.
 
I see a lot of sins on our roof top and w/o hand rails I'm lik'in the thought of non skid. But moving the dinghy around on non skid dos'nt compute very well. Especially since the dinghy now is a rubber ducky.

Eric - I don't think that fine sand finish would hurt your rubber dink. You pull it up on sandy shores with more harmful items in the mix.
 
Hey was wondering about you mate. How's things?


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Things are good, working, boating, living the dream! Will have a 3 week holiday coming up, going to gunkhole for a while in the San Juans, then get some stuff done on our house. Cheers.
 
Eric - I don't think that fine sand finish would hurt your rubber dink. You pull it up on sandy shores with more harmful items in the mix.
The sand on the beach rolls
The sand in nonskid does not, so it is effectively 80 grit sandpaper you are dragging the dinghy, skin, clothes over.

The sand is the best method I have used for grip and longevity easily lasting 10 years or more, but it is a bstard to remove if you need to do any work in that area as you are effectively grinding stone.
 
I'm quite happy with my nonskid. It is literally ground-up tennis balls. I mated it with Mobydeck paint (Moby Deck Coating System), who supplied the nonskid product also. I used the coarse version. Being rubber it is easy on the feet but has plenty of grip. You can kinda see what it looks like around the dingy chocks.
 

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Non skid everything apart from a tape width around hatches and fittings is how I have done everything in the past.
Can never have enough nonskid and, it hides a multitude of sins.


Yeah that's what I've done mate plus a single line down the middle to break it up a bit :)


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Obviously - not you! Kidding aside... Can't you simply keep surface uniformly san paper roughened to creating a tooth hold for high quality paint, in color of choice, with sand added for a non-skid sandy finish?

I recently made our 92 yr Matriarch's house "disable friendly" by building ramp entry to her front door. Used high-grade exterior plywood and painted it three coats. Second coat I liberally sprinkled in 100 mesh sand. Third coat made it look good. Pretty easy to get uniform surface that is virtually non skid. I imagine by playing with (experimenting with) quality marine paints and different mesh sands you may be able to easily concoct a process that is easy to apply and good to look at... as well as being durable for years of "safe" enjoyment. Best Luck! :thumb:


Nah mate I'm using Kiwigrip. Have used it in the past and love it. Just had to work out a pattern on the foredeck/cabin roof area so it didn't look like an after thought :)


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I'm quite happy with my nonskid. It is literally ground-up tennis balls. I mated it with Mobydeck paint (Moby Deck Coating System), who supplied the nonskid product also. I used the coarse version. Being rubber it is easy on the feet but has plenty of grip. You can kinda see what it looks like around the dingy chocks.


Yours looks nice mate. I'm using Kiwigrip.

http://www.pyiinc.com/KiwiGrip/




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Great afternoon at the boat today. Spent 3hrs chin wagging with Mr B then did some fairing of fillets and areas not covered by nonslip coatings

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Nah mate I'm using Kiwigrip. Have used it in the past and love it. Just had to work out a pattern on the foredeck/cabin roof area so it didn't look like an after thought :)


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Matt me mate - I visited Kiwigrip site. Simple as can be. :popcorn:
Following is video on it. Do you know how well (how long) it lasts on often walked deck areas after careful installation? - Cheers! - Art

 
I find that the International (Interlux) deck pain supplied with a fine sandy compound in it that makes a deck nice and non-skid, called Interdeck, works well also. Available in a range of colours. However, when I re-do the upper deck next time, (if there is a next time), I might try Kiwigrip, because it is weather proofing at the same time, I understand.
 
I just used KiwiGrip, works a treat.

Dave and Suzie - I'm sold... Your Kiwigrip installation looks great!


I wonder what the durability factor is (years of use) if a deck/swim step is often walked upon... with items sometimes set harshly on top of the surfaces?

We use our exterior surfaces all the time while aboard in spring, summer, fall. Sun deck / Side decks / Back deck / Bridge deck / Swim Step. Not so much front deck; i.e. pretty much for anchoring, docking purposes only.

The non skid surface enhancement must last for several years before resurfacing is required. Currently, the original 39 yr. old surfaces are still pretty much OK. Only real reason I plan to recoat them is because I want to reduce the too-hot for bare feet circumstances that happen mid-summer.
 
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