Mantus m2

[Nomad Willy]

HippoCampus,
I’ve always said that was a non-issue. As long as you’ve got an anchor that sets very dependably .. like the Rocna. You need scope though. The R dosn’t like short scope. But very few will notice though as it performs fair at short scope. And fair performance is all you need 98 to 99% of the time. As far as I know this weakness only rears it’s head in anchor tests. Then it’s a comparison w may other anchors that do better at short scope.

But they are very good at long scope and that’s what the’re designed for because that indeed sells anchors. They sold lots of anchors. But as far as I know there are no more anchor tests. And it’s a shame as there’s quite a few new anchors that have never been tested in a serious test w lots of hardware to do a good job. Perhaps manufacturers pulled their products because what really makes an anchor great is not max holding power. Setting ability, veering ability and #1 should be multiple bottom capabilities since that is the hardest thing to accomplish. Very few anchors do it all well but now 98% of anchors most often called “next gen” anchors have very high holding power. So other elements of anchor performance become more important than max holding power. Any modern anchor does that.

By the way where is the great country of “Plymouth” ?

 

[izikalvo]

If you dont dare you dont make mistakes, it happened before, also to Rocna, and it will probably happen again.
As I understand Mantus had stoped selling the M2(https://www.mantusmarine.com/m2-anchor/) for now, until they will find a proper solution.
Mantus is a big and reputable company and I am sure no customer of them will be left without a solution and the M2 problem will be solved.
Give them the time to resolve it, and i am sure they will.

It is an anchor thread and we know how rough it can get, please be patiant.

 

[Peter B]

Have a Rocna which obviously has a roll bar. It’s the best anchor I’ve owned in 35+ years of doing this but in some circumstances the roll bar is a negative. First with a significant wind shift. Actually had occasion to watch this. We were doing zincs, the bottom and hull chores. So in and out the dinghy and water. Roll bar anchors don’t pivot position under the surface of the bottom. They come up and reset. This usually fine as it happens in a very short distance when on a good bottom. But I can see if you drop in a small patch of sand with grass around you it could lead to issues. My observation is antidotal and in 15-20 with a shift over 30-45 minutes. They don’t do well in soupy mud.

Hi, Hippo, what you describe there is indeed the one 'weakness' if we could call it that, of both the Rocna and Manson Supreme. It's because of their concave fluke shape, and the thickness and slightly flukewards rake of the roll bar.

This is why Anchor Right tried and discarded the concave fluke and went back to the convex type for their Sarca range, with and without roll bars. This then sheds the build-up that can plug up a concave fluke, preventing a quick reset, which as you say, is necessary with this type of anchor.

This convexity might reduce it's ultimate holding in a perfect first set, compared to a concave fluke, but this substrate shedding means better re-sets and less damage to the sea floor.

Also the roll bar of the S-Sarca is thinner and has a larger diameter than Rocna or Manson, and is canted more towards the shank so as to create a twisting over motion earlier, and before is gets bogged down in the very soft stuff, another issue with the Rocna you observed. If you ever lose your Rocna, just try a S-Sarca, is my suggestion. You would not regret it, i can assure you.

 

[DonW28]

I just sent an email to Mantus to ask what was going on and more importantly, their intentions to current owners. Since mine is only two months old I'm hoping they have a legitimate fix and will stand behind the product. Otherwise I will be back in the anchor market. I'd rather eat the cost then wake up somewhere other than where I was anchored.



Don

 

[Hippocampus]

Don obvious you are a conscientious cruiser. Worse thing is having the anchor alarm wakie you up at 2 am to find out you’re dragging. Have taken to anchoring as the farthest one out and/or downstream from wind and/or current until I’m absolutely confident in any modification of ground tackle. Have had to take to the dinghy to protect my boat from dragging vessels, bad scope/ swing decisions and inadequacy sized or maintained ground tackle of others.
When leaving my boat unless I’ve been at anchor for awhile and feel 100% secure have taken to locking the boat up but leaving the ignition key in and the windlass breaker on. I rather have someone move my boat than see her come to harm. Many friends do the same. How do people here feel about that practice?

 

[rslifkin]

I always keep the windlass breaker on, although I do have a cut-off switch in the control circuit that's normally off. That only gets turned on when the windlass is actively in use. I should probably label that switch better...

When anchored, I always leave keys in the ignition, fume detector on, chart plotter either on or in standby. You never know when you'll need to move quickly.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Don, hippo and rslifkin,
That would be good fodder for a new thread w a poll maybe.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Peter B,
The advantage of the clean working SARCA and Excel was clearly set forth in Steve’s Anchor Setting Vids. The thread w 600 replys.

The fact that Steve did really violent reversals and the fact that he had a big problem w mud clogging may be related. At any rate it showed how easily it can destroy not only high holding power but setting as well. And if one can’t set all performance is destroyed. With and anchor that won’t set you may as well have a big rock. Whether an anchor clogs or runs clean may have something to do w the anchor .. enough that it can be consistently repeated. As can be seen in Steve’s vids. But I’m sure the consistency of the seafloor is involved in the matter. None the less a significant advantage to a convex anchor. Scoop anchors do just that, scoop up .. mud.

 

[Peter B]

....When leaving my boat unless I’ve been at anchor for awhile and feel 100% secure (I) have taken to locking the boat up but leaving the ignition key in and the windlass breaker on. I rather have someone move my boat than see her come to harm. Many friends do the same. How do people here feel about that practice?

Does that mean you actually don't lock the boat up, as if you did leaving the keys in the ignition would not help a lot. I doubt you'd appreciate someone breaking in to move your boat. Nor would having them up the anchor from the pulpit switch, if unable to fire her up to move it to safety be good. Did you mean you leave it unlocked, or what...I'm puzzled...

However, to answer your question. I don't think I would have been prepared to rely on anyone who had not driven my boat before trying to move it. Each vessel has its own foibles, and tricks regards handling, and the chance someone seeing it was dragging, or in some other danger, and being a skilled enough skipper to deal with it safely is low. So, no...I'd rather rely on my own choice of where and how I had anchored, rather than relying on any outside intervention. But maybe that's just me.

 

[Frosty]

I can't speak directly for Hippocampus; but I know he's a sailor and many (most?) sailboats have an ignition plus throttle/shift and steering in the cockpit. They are thus accessible with the cabin locked.

 

[izikalvo]

Don obvious you are a conscientious cruiser. Worse thing is having the anchor alarm wakie you up at 2 am to find out you’re dragging. Have taken to anchoring as the farthest one out and/or downstream from wind and/or current until I’m absolutely confident in any modification of ground tackle. Have had to take to the dinghy to protect my boat from dragging vessels, bad scope/ swing decisions and inadequacy sized or maintained ground tackle of others.
When leaving my boat unless I’ve been at anchor for awhile and feel 100% secure have taken to locking the boat up but leaving the ignition key in and the windlass breaker on. I rather have someone move my boat than see her come to harm. Many friends do the same. How do people here feel about that practice?

I do the same.

 

[stevemitchell]

In broad terms the original Mantus is a roll bar anchor - big skinny hoop. The M2 is the non-roll bar new alternative (similar in application to Rocna hoop vs Rocna Vulcan, although not saying they are the same anchors).

I had the Mantus M1, M2, and the Rocna Vulcan on my boat. I started with something else that the boat came with, moved to the M1 which had too long of a shank and caused all sorts of problems. Sold that after having it for 3 months.

The M2 was not impressive. The Rocna Vulcan has set just as well as the M1 or the original roll-bar Rocnas that I've had on 2 previous boats. Never in the last year of hundreds of deployments has it not set in pretty much all bottom types.

 

[stevemitchell]

I always keep the windlass breaker on, although I do have a cut-off switch in the control circuit that's normally off. That only gets turned on when the windlass is actively in use. I should probably label that switch better...

When anchored, I always leave keys in the ignition, fume detector on, chart plotter either on or in standby. You never know when you'll need to move quickly.

Same. One GPS/chart device on at all times, keys in the ignition, windlass on and ready to use, VHF on, and an anchor alarm via one or two methods. Crew members are also trained to observe their surroundings, know how to read the chart plotter while at anchor, and they know that if things look bad to start the engines and move away from whatever is bad

When I leave the boat, an anchor alarm is always on, and can send me a text message if something looks unnatural.

 

[GB361994]

Mantus M2

Im having the same problem and have been in touch with Mantus, They listened to my problems and responded that there is a NEW Shank being
manufactured that will be available in September to solve this issue
of not setting in mud, Waiting for an update to receive my new shank
and keeping my fingers crossed that i don't have to buy another $ 500 buck anchor.

M/V Southerly 36GB EU with 45Lb M2

 

[GB361994]

Im having the same problem and have been in touch with Mantus, They listened to my problems and responded that there is a NEW Shank being
manufactured that will be available in September to solve this issue
of not setting in mud, Waiting for an update to receive my new shank
and keeping my fingers crossed that i don't have to buy another $ 500 buck anchor.

M/V Southerly 36GB EU with 45Lb M2

 

[Frosty]

Stevemitchell:
Interesting comparison of those three. I had to eliminate the M1 from my consideration for the same reason (long shank would bonk windlass). Even though expensive (comparatively), I would likely choose the Spade save for the many comments on poor galvanizing (bah).

Southerly:
I don't have a Mantus M2, but I'm always curious about anchors. I was hoping someone who had one would report back after contacting the company. Thanks.

 

[Hippocampus]

Frosty that’s exactly right.

 

[Group9]

I can’t use a rollbar anchor in my pulpit. So that rules out a lot of the newer anchors. Sounds like without the rollbar they aren’t as good.

We had that problem trying to get our 85 pound roll bar Mantus to fit on our bow roller at first.

I say, at first, because, after a day of studying, measuring, and thinking, I got my sawz all, and drill out, and with just a tiny bit of modification (lengthening the slot, moving a roller), it fits great now!

 

[backinblue]

I can’t use a rollbar anchor in my pulpit. So that rules out a lot of the newer anchors. Sounds like without the rollbar they aren’t as good.

Look at the Ultra Anchor. I love mine.

 

[Comodave]

Look at the Ultra Anchor. I love mine.

I am not quite ready to spend $2400 on a new anchor just now. Not sure it would fit anyway due to the bar on top to prevent the chain from getting caught.

 

[Comodave]

We had that problem trying to get our 85 pound roll bar Mantus to fit on our bow roller at first.

I say, at first, because, after a day of studying, measuring, and thinking, I got my sawz all, and drill out, and with just a tiny bit of modification (lengthening the slot, moving a roller), it fits great now!

The PO had a S/S plate put on that covers the entire bottom of the pulpit. When I went to a bigger Delta I spent 2 hours with a grinder cutting out the S/S to get it to fit.

 

[Bryant]

Mantus

Just giving my experience with the new and improved mantus m2 ......big disappointment....I paid a lot of money for the 55lb m2 after having one of the m1 style mantus for years and the m1 always set fast and hard but this m2 did TERRIBLE in mud of all things it drug for hundred yards and refused to set multiple times in mud....I was very disappointed if the anchor wasnt still on the boat I'd ask for a refund.....I only ordered the m2 because I was worried the m1 wouldnt fit on the roller....so while the m2 set good in sand and held good it was TERRIBLE in mud and I never felt safe and had a good night sleep at anchor knowing it was my only anchor out there.....I'm sure to get slammed by the mantus reps who get paid to brag ok their anchors but m1 amazing anchor m2 fn terrible anchor

I have the original Mantus with roll bar. Mine is 45lb. While I've never been on the hook in really bad wx, I have been through some pretty bad thunderstorms here in FL and my Mantus has always held. I've never dragged anchor and it's set 1st time every time, just like the ads say. I've wondered about the new one.
I do have a question though. I also have the Mantus anchor swivel. I have 150' of 5/16 inch chain. I can't decide if the swivel is a good idea or not. Seems like just adding another possible system failure to a simple system. Thoughts?

 

[rslifkin]

I do have a question though. I also have the Mantus anchor swivel. I have 150' of 5/16 inch chain. I can't decide if the swivel is a good idea or not. Seems like just adding another possible system failure to a simple system. Thoughts?

My personal opinion is to always try without a swivel, then add one if you determine your setup needs it (due to either a chain twist problem, or having trouble orienting the anchor correctly when it comes into the roller).

 

[backinblue]

I am not quite ready to spend $2400 on a new anchor just now. Not sure it would fit anyway due to the bar on top to prevent the chain from getting caught.

The bar on top is not very intrusive, much less so than a Mantus. Expensive? Yes, but sometimes you get what you pay for, but also, piece of mind at night in a blow can be priceless! A long time ago, a USCG instructor taught us, "always buy the best piece of equipment you can find for it's intended purpose". Everyone can argue about one anchor vs. another, but I truly believe that the Ultra is one of the best out there today, so I'm not going to worry about trying to save a few hundred dollars when deciding what I am going to trust my boat to.

 

[backinblue]

I have the original Mantus with roll bar. Mine is 45lb. While I've never been on the hook in really bad wx, I have been through some pretty bad thunderstorms here in FL and my Mantus has always held. I've never dragged anchor and it's set 1st time every time, just like the ads say. I've wondered about the new one.
I do have a question though. I also have the Mantus anchor swivel. I have 150' of 5/16 inch chain. I can't decide if the swivel is a good idea or not. Seems like just adding another possible system failure to a simple system. Thoughts?

The swivel has been debated in other threads. My opinion (we all have them) is that there are some good modern designs that eliminate side loading and are stronger than the chain they are connected to. Low risk that it is a point of failure if you choose the right one and size it properly. If it makes anchoring much easier, well worth it. But I agree, no harm in trying w/o and adding later.

 

[Nomad Willy]

B&blue,
Check your bow roller. Just the roller itself. Is the slot kinda rounded? Shallow? If not (be fussy) go find or make/modify one that is.

Should work when you get it that way. The slot should almost grip the edge of the chain link. When it does the chain will come back up the way it went down.

 

[backinblue]

B&blue,
Check your bow roller. Just the roller itself. Is the slot kinda rounded? Shallow? If not (be fussy) go find or make/modify one that is.

Should work when you get it that way. The slot should almost grip the edge of the chain link. When it does the chain will come back up the way it went down.

Thanks Willy, but I have no trouble with the chain coming up. I'll take a look at the roller anyway. Note that I have a combo nylon/chain rode, maybe that helps? Anyway, I also have the Ultra flip swivel so that anchor flips to the correct position 100% of the time. Usually I do everything from the helm with my wife at the bow observing and pointing at the anchor direction. Once up, she clips the cable to secure it and we're done.

 

[ranger58sb]

I do have a question though. I also have the Mantus anchor swivel. I have 150' of 5/16 inch chain. I can't decide if the swivel is a good idea or not. Seems like just adding another possible system failure to a simple system. Thoughts?

See the long recent thread on swivels.

I only used a swivel to solve a specific problem. Your specific situation may depend on why you have a swivel (or not).

-Chris

 

[rslifkin]

The combo rode can be a problem for twist. I've found with mine, it's hit or miss what orientation the chain is in when it first loads after the rope portion comes in.

 

[ScottinMA]

Mantus 1 and 2

I started out with a M1 but the shank constantly lifted the chain out of the gypsy so I returned it and purchased the M2. This past weekend I learned firsthand how poorly it sets in mud. Fortunately, I ran across this thread on TF! Had no idea that they stopped production of the M2 or the known problem that this anchor presents with setting in mud. I have a email sent to the Mantus representative.

Scott
2004 Mainship 390

PS Both M1 and M2 were 65lb