Relocating or Adding A 50 Amp Shore Power Line

[Boatgal]

Hi Everyone!

My shore power system is located at the stern of my boat. My preference for my slip would be to pull my boat in bow first so that I can sit in my cockpit area to take advantage of the best views at my marina and for privacy. My retractable cord is 50 feet long, but is still not long enough to reach the shore power to be able to dock bow first. Has anyone added another 50 Amp shore plug, or moved their existing one? My boat has a 50 amp to dual 30 amp pigtail currently. Wondering if this can be done and what the cost might be.

Thanks!

 

[oscar]

Yes it can be done and it's not horribly complicated. That said, if you're asking the question here it's not a DIY job for you. So it's not going to be cheap. For starters cable is expensive so is labor. If you are going to spend the money and go through the trouble I suggest adding a second one so you always have the choice. This will require and "either or" switch so no two sources can accidentally be hooked up at the same time.

However..... there are extension cords for this, which would be the easiest route. (And you get to decide whether you want to keep it if/when you sell the boat)

https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-250-Volt-Marine-Extension-Threaded/dp/B004D2I8KA

 

[Boatgal]

Yes it can be done and it's not horribly complicated. That said, if you're asking the question here it's not a DIY job for you. So it's not going to be cheap. For starters cable is expensive so is labor. If you are going to spend the money and go through the trouble I suggest adding a second one so you always have the choice. This will require and "either or" switch so no two sources can accidentally be hooked up at the same time.

However..... there are extension cords for this, which would be the easiest route. (And you get to decide whether you want to keep it if/when you sell the boat)

https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-250-Volt-Marine-Extension-Threaded/dp/B004D2I8KA

Thanks Oscar! So marinas will let you use an extension cord? That sounds like the cheaper way to go. I probably only need 7-10 feet of extra length. Are the extension cords marine grade and sold through marine supply stores?

 

[tiltrider1]

You are not being very clear. There is 50A 125V cords and there are 50a 125/250v cords. But you were not clear on which one. Then you mention a pigtail. I’m guessing you have an adapter that lets you plug into 2 30A sockets when no 50A socket is available.

You can just buy a 25’ power cord and add it to your 50’. You can have a second power receptacle added in the bow area of your boat. You could use the dual 30A adapter if it solves your problem but 30A plugs are not the most reliable.

 

[Bacchus]

If the inlet is more than 10 ft from the electrical panel & current breaker you will need to add a double pole breaker in addition to the new inlet. As Oscar said you will also need to add a selector switch to eliminate the possibility of both inlets being connected together.
Someone familiar with ABYC Elec Stds would be the best place to turn for advice and to do the modification.
If you are serious about doing part of this yourself and feel capable you might inquire if they would spec the components and allow you to possibly do some work routing & securing the cabling that they could then do the connections to ensure it complies.
We sometimes dock bow in or in a situation where power pedestal in fwd when traveling. I simply run an a cord along the less used side deck away from the dock to the bow. The extension cord then gets me to the pedestal. I've seen some that simply wire tie the cord fwd along a rail and connect the extension from bow to the pedestal.
I'd get a quote and then decide how much the inconvenience is worth.

 

[Boatgal]

That's great news. I'm all for just using the extension cord. Definitely not confident to DIY. Thanks everyone!

 

[Moonfish]

You could just buy a 75-foot shore power cord and keep the inlet where it is.

 

[Boatgal]

Do marinas have any restrictions for length? That sounds like it would be a good solution as well.

 

[O C Diver]

During my refit, I added a second power inlet. I installed a 4 pole rotary switch to select which inlet was used. This insures all wires going to the non used inlet are disconnected. This includes both not wires, the neutral, and the ground. Simply select which inlet is most convenient, connect the power cord, and select the corresponding inlet on the rotary switch.



The forward one is below the pilothouse window with the inlet facing down to avoid water drops getting on the contacts.



While there's nothing wrong with combining power cords for extra length, it's much easier to use shorter length cables. I cut my power cord into a 15' and a 25' lengths and added new ends. Over 90% of the time the 15' or 25' cord is all that's required to reach a power pedestal.



Ted

 

[Comodave]

If you do add a second inlet, make sure that you also add a breaker within 10’ of the inlet measured along the wire.

 

[Boatgal]

Yes it can be done and it's not horribly complicated. That said, if you're asking the question here it's not a DIY job for you. So it's not going to be cheap. For starters cable is expensive so is labor. If you are going to spend the money and go through the trouble I suggest adding a second one so you always have the choice. This will require and "either or" switch so no two sources can accidentally be hooked up at the same time.

However..... there are extension cords for this, which would be the easiest route. (And you get to decide whether you want to keep it if/when you sell the boat)

https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-250-Volt-Marine-Extension-Threaded/dp/B004D2I8KA

Thanks for the link!

 

[Boatgal]

These are all such great alternatives! You all rock!!!

 

[Flatswing]

to be clear - your boat has a 50' 50A/250v cord that is plugged into 2 - 30A/125v dock receptacles via a smart Y? If so, you are only getting 30A on each leg therefore a 25' 50A/250v extension would be an easy fix with minimal losses. Add the locking rings at the connection.

 

[Boatgal]

Thanks Jeremy. I have a 12/24vdc/125/250vac 50 amp electrical system with 50 amp dockside power.

 

[O C Diver]

While there's nothing wrong with combining power cords for extra length, it's much easier to use shorter length cables. I cut my power cord into a 15' and a 25' lengths and added new ends. Over 90% of the time the 15' or 25' cord is all that's required to reach a power pedestal.

View attachment 101848

Ted

Apparently I was having a senior moment. The cords are 20' and 30'.

Ted

 

[tiltrider1]

With that information. Using the dual 30A pigtail is not a good idea for long term use. It limits you to 30A instead of 50A. 30A connector have a much higher failure rate than 50A connectors. Simplest answer is to add a second shore cord to the first.

The marina I berth in won’t allow adapters or second shore cords on the dock. However, once the first shore cord is on your boat the marina has no say in what happens on your boat. In other words if the second shore cord is completely on your boat the marina has no say in its use.

The longer your shore cord, the more voltage drop you will experience. Not really an issue if all you add is another 25’ of shore cord.

 

[Robster_in_edmonds]

Adding my two cents. Using an extension cord with locking rings is definitely the way to go. Modifying your boat adds many complications and you are trusting the electrician to do everything the right way. Sadly, there are electricians who don't wire things up correctly - ask any good marine electrician for a couple of horror stories. The extension cord gives you flexibility in the future. I guarantee you that at least once in the next two years you will loan the cord to a fellow boater in need for a day or two...

 

[Boatgal]

Good point. I hadn't even thought about the possible complications of having an electrician tinker with the electrical system and possibly messing things up.

 

[PM]

Ive never been to a marina which cared about the length of my power cord. As long as it was a quality cord, not some home made romex job. In fact I have found myself short of length on my cord and I borrowed one from the marina.

pete

 

[Boatgal]

Thanks! So the 75 foot cord would likely work. Hopefully the added 25 feet won't impact power performance too much.

 

[Flatswing]

Thanks Jeremy. I have a 12/24vdc/125/250vac 50 amp electrical system with 50 amp dockside power.

Good: so what’s with the “pigtails” in your post? I’m confused

 

[tiltrider1]

The pigtails allow her to plug into 2 30A sockets when a 50A 125/250V socket is not available.

 

[Boatgal]

Ive never been to a marina which cared about the length of my power cord. As long as it was a quality cord, not some home made romex job. In fact I have found myself short of length on my cord and I borrowed one from the marina.

pete

Hi Pete,

When you say you borrowed a cord from the marina, does that mean you added on to your existing cord as an extension, or borrowed a longer cord from them to use instead of your own shore power cord? If you added on as an extension, did you see any impact on your power? I'm thinking worse case I would only need 15 - 25 feet extra for length and was curious if I wouldn't have as good power.

Thanks!

BoatGal

 

[ranger58sb]

BG, we routinely position a 25' (I think) shorepower cord on the dock, one end plugged into the pedestal, the other end hung from an aft mid-ships pile and available to quickly connect to/disconnect from our real boat cord while we're standing in the cockpit. Turn off at pedestal first, of course, but it makes for faster, easier in/out at our home slip.

The 25' shoreside cord and the 65' onboard cord means... a long feeder and it makes absolutely no noticeable difference at all to voltage we see on the boat.

-Chris

 

[Boatgal]

The pigtails allow her to plug into 2 30A sockets when a 50A 125/250V socket is not available.

Exactly.